Duramax Sheared Cam Pin! ENGINE FAILURE!
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- čas přidán 13. 03. 2019
- IM BACK!!!! We have gotten the engine Torn Down a bit more and discovered what the cause of the problem was!!
Email me for information at
Resurrecteddieselperformance@gmail.com
Mod's List
Orange LLY:
2005 Duramax
BD aftermarket Trans Cooler
Deviant Transmission Lines
SDP compound Turbo Kit
LBZ FPR
PPE uppipes and manifolds
PPE return lines
PPE CP3 high flow lines
ported fuel rail
XDP Rail plug
Deleted Fuel Filter
Roap Ripper 3000 built trans (blown up)
Custom Traction bars
6in Rcx lift bolts out no blocks
Flo-Pro 5in straight pipe
MBRP 6in Tip
pinnacle performance: / pinnalceperformancetruck
Truck Master: / @truckmaster
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Thanks for these videos 👍
No problem just trying to show the nitty gritty of the duramax world!!
How much of the core support area would need to come out to do a remove/install a new cam with the engine in the truck?
Would this by any chance cause your truck to run rich by any chance? I have changed the injectors and my truck still blows white smoke it smells like raw diesel truck runs perfectly fine only when I'm idling for a long time it will smoke
The way you say what all you’ve got to take off like it’s no big deal lowers my blood pressure so much because I’ve got to do mine and it’s so intimidating.
Hahaha I’ve done it a few time but just stay organized man get bags label parts and take pictures if you need too it’s just some nuts and bolts!
Awesome Rory.... Great to see you back at it Sir! Huh... Cam Pin broke. Isn't this kinda rare on Duramax's? (Thought it was normally the Crank Pin that goes bad??)
BTW, did you do a Camera upgrade?.... Quality looks AWESOME Bro!!!
No sir I need to just cleaned my GoPro and renewed my software!! But yes it is kinda rare usually always the crank pin!! But thank you for the feed back!
What did you use to pull the cam gear off? I am currently doing head gaskets with studs due to a blown head gasket. I saw this video while researching the job and since I was doing the water pump I decided to inspect the pins and found that the crank pin is good but the cam pin is starting to shear. Thank you for the help.
after you take the bolt out the gear should just wiggle off maybe with a little prying if its stuck on the pin shouldnt take much though!
So what was the symptoms
Does anyone make a pin or key for the camshaft? I seen they are available for the cranks.
as far as I know pretty much any 5 mm key will work don't think It has to be specific we are going to cut our own!
Damn that sucks, is that cam pin shearing off an issue for all year Duramax's or just the LB7's? Trying to see if this is something I need to get fixed preemptively on my LMM. Love the content man!
It I believe it is a problem on all but you hear it more on lb7-lbz probably cause of higher miles at this point but I’m not sure if they changed the material at all in later years but I’m pretty sure they all use the same design
One day my content will be this good 💪🏻💪🏻
I appreciate you man!! Keep up with it your doing great my stuff is far from good!!
Same thing happened to me. Managed to blow up a piston at the same time haha
Dang that’s no good at all but it happens!!
What did this truck sound like at idle and when the cam pin sheared all the way did it jolt then die after a couple of miles?
he said it was running fine then he shut it off one day and just never started again
@@RESURRECTEDDIESEL did it not have a little knock in the idle for a little bit?
@@RESURRECTEDDIESEL my 07 did the same thing except it lost prime I shot a shot of ether (I know now . Had I known then ether would not been used) but it fired almost stumbled so I figured ok I know I have bad fuel. Next time I went to start it the sound was aweful like a gas engine with no plugs in. Have not determined the issue yet.
So mines just turning over wont actually start but its pushing air through the intake it's getting good fuel pressure on the high an low could this be the same issue with mine it's a 2002 lb7
Very very possible best way is to pull the valve cover and see if the rocker arms are moving
Do you have any codes ? For this
Those motors are great, but a ticking time bomb if up grades are made. A keyed crank/camshaft is a must. Lol hell I’ve seen old peoples Dmaxs crank pin lay over as well.
I was jonesen for this video on this LB7 project, man. Keep rolling the out, even if it’s sped up hour hit.
Thanks bro and that’s the crazy thing this things stock it’s really hit or miss it’s crazy!! I’ll keep them coming though my man!
Is there an upgrade for that CAM PIN ?
Bring it to a machine shop and have it milled our to put a 5mm key in it
if a cam bearing or bearings gets spun is the engine junk or can it be line honed ?
You can have the cam bearings replaced it just needs to be done at a machine shop most of the time unless you have all the appropriate tools
@@RESURRECTEDDIESEL thanks man i have a good deal on it just making sure
So what did you end up doing with this truck?
It was a customers truck they got it back and I believe sold or are trying to sell it!
That sucks. Any engine I ever worked on that had valve witness marks on the piston would AT minimum need that rod and piston along with everything else involved in the takedown. Some don't think the rod needs replacement, but its far better to be safe than sorry. On an engine like the Duramax the pushrod will bend before the connecting rod, but everything in that valve train is shot (sam, lifter rocker ect. Also "while your in there" it's not a bad idea to have the machine shop cut actual ky ways in the cam and crank (depending on how far down it comes) again everyones a critic, but something like this would be far faster to check by pulling the glowplugs and sticking a bore scope in. Just my .02 cents.
I totally agree man and I told the owner I wanted to have the engine rebuilt but the customer was on a budget and wanted to chance it and the truck is still running like a champ and the only thing we did was push rods and head gaskets
@@RESURRECTEDDIESEL totally understand, but thats a huge risk. The lifter is definitely on borrowed time as well as that rod. Of course a budget repair would have been to drop the oil pan so you can pull that 1 rod and piston assembly. This would allow a good inspection of the bearings health as well. Time permitting I would have that rod assembly inspected by a machinist, or drop in a used one from a known good core engine. Again, totally get that money is tight, but chucking a rod out the block due to materials failure from the weakness is going to end up way more expensive. Penny wise pound foolish is a lesson I have learned the hard way.
Duct tape a piece of cardboard over your radiator to protect the fins. Lay a moving blanket over the top of the cooling stack...the padding is waaaay more comfortable to lean/lay on
What’s the symptoms of something like that?
Just stops running sounds like no compression have to pull the valve covers to really see if the valve train is moving
DURAMAX_DIESEL gotcha thanks hey man can you make a video of removing the turbo for your average joe like me I can’t find any videos of how to do it
I do have a few turbo removal videos on an lbz but I can add it into my next video the only difference is the downpipe has bolts not a v band I don’t have to take this turbo off but I can explain it in good view without the heads
DURAMAX_DIESEL if you can explain that would be great man I need to take mine off and replace it while I have it off cuz I have oil leaking from my oil drain tube I’ve had the rear main seal replaced so I know it’s not from there plus I can see the oil from the bottom flange on the drain tube
Yeah it’s not super hard man I’ll cover it the next chance I get!!
PULL THE CAB!!
NEVERRRRRRRRRRR!!!! Hahaha
Hay man please respond maybe you have seen my issue short back story (8 new injectors twice) ohm out the injectors they was fine (and harness ) 8 new cups i did used red gel lock tight 8 new hp fuel lines but fires up fine but white smoke raw fuel smell like crazy cylinders 8&6 +15 bal rate no blow at all no bent push rods and new fuel filter never did it with the old injectors the only problem was the hp seals was bad in the old injectors and thanks in advance before i set this thing on fire 😂
Have you compression tested those cylinders yet? If you were loosing compression before is possible the pistons could’ve melted and been low on compression or a head gasket let go between the cylinders not causing it to push coolant but loosing compression I would definitely start with that
@@RESURRECTEDDIESEL thanks i did drain the coolant and run it long enough for it not to over heat still does the same thing but will have to defiantly get a compression tester and check it out thanks
Is it just the lb7s that have this problem. I know a guy this happened to. Makes me want to sell mine before it happens to me
I think it’s possible on all of them I’m not sure if they did away with the design on the new trucks but it’s like a hit or miss thing just like how lbz break cranks or pistons go just kinda shit luck! But this is pretty easily fixed if the pistons are okay
@@RESURRECTEDDIESEL I'm selling mine that's it. It's an 02 with 205k miles on it. I'm thinking the injector pump went out. I'm buying a dodge
How hard was it to get your cam bolt out? I’m doing the same thing right now and it’s being a bitch.
It’s tough because they have lock tite on them and are torqued decently tight but once you get it broke free it’s tough the whole way but just gotta keep wrenching
@@RESURRECTEDDIESEL thanks! I stopped because I was worried about damaging the cam. I appreciate it.
No problem if it’s really tough it could be the pin pieces in there but either way it’s gotta come off and a new bolt has to be used it it’s been broke loose and depending on the condition of the cam pin hole it might need to be replaced anyways but I would get the bolt out and inspect
@@RESURRECTEDDIESEL right on I’m going to get it off tonight and check it out. I’m hoping it’s the cam pin not something worse.
@@RESURRECTEDDIESEL so my cam is just spinning as I’m wrenching on this bolt
First!
My dude 🤘🏼😎
Definitely not an LB7.
For the amount of work, why didn't you just pull the engine out and made a proper video
Cause you don’t have to pull the engine to do this job? And I already have full engine removal and tear downs back in the channel!
Those small bumps they use is pathetic especially on a high torque diesel gasoline engines aren’t built that poorly
But but but those engineers go to school for years and are really smart....to make it last past the warranty
Save your hands, please wear some gloves!
I do have some but it makes it so hard to feel bolts and get stupid little things off I usually wear them for moving heavy sharp edge things! And the rubber gloves just constantly rip on me!!
Gloves are for pussies!! Get yer hands dirty.
😂😂😂 I usually do I usually get my face filthy and everything else along with it