Old Rusty, The Solex Carburettor
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2020
- This video is all about the restoration and preparation of a Solex 32 BIC/AIC carburettor for the engine of Old Rusty. The Video explains how the carburettor works, the four circuits, we take it apart and we clean it and put it back together . The Engine rebuild can be seen on multiple video's on my channel
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
![[Ep.5] Rénov' 4L - Nettoyage et révision du carburateur Solex ! #Trell-K](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/PoHa2FFjpME/mqdefault.jpg)
I swear, this is one of the best educational and practical automotive channels
Thank you Atanas
One of the best tutorials on Solex Thanks so much for the White Board
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks a lot for this perfect clean illustration
Here's on Apple for the teacher! Great job explaining how the carburetor functions. Thank you for your videos!! 🍎👌
Thanks for watching! I love apples lol
Excellent video , no missing information
Steve I find your vast knowledge on so many subjects simply amazing and entertaining
Glad to hear it
Brilliant explanation, I totally agree about understanding the workings before attempting the job. Big thankyou, I’m about to attempt a Solex strip down on a Talbot Express. Cheers
absolutely the best description of a solex I have ever seen. 👏
Thanks for the comments
Another great video. Thank you for taking the time to go through the BIC 32. I appreciate the whiteboard for what it’s worth. Nice to see progress on old rusty!
My pleasure!
Steve love the White Board.Thank's for the explanation.Knowledge is everything.
You are very welcome
I think the way you explain things using the white board is excellent. I enjoyed it even though i already know how a carburettor works. It was interesting to learn that in Belgium even old vehicles need to pass the MOT. Here in England veicles over 40 years old are Exempt from MOT or road tax. Im excited to see Old Rusty run for the first time.
not sure if this would be MOT free it would go on the weight it could carry
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for the comments.
No such luck here , it needs an Old timer MOT ... and the truck is not allowed to haul anyting
I'm finding this video well explained and hopefully very useful for me 👍
Loved it, especially the white board!
Thank you for the comments
Thank very much for your important info, much appreciated
That brought back memories I haven't work on a carb for 10yrs good explanation good video
Thanks 👍
Great video. Best carburator masterclass ever. Thank you.
Excellent. I enjoy the charts and full explanation so keep up with it, and at the end of the day, it is the process that works for you.
Thanks for the comments
Looking forward to hearing Old Rusted the result of all your effort coming together , being a great ride this far , Bill
Me too
Thank you a lot!
This is really one of the best educational videos about carburetor.
And by the way, I love that you are using the whiteboard.
I'm also like you, I cannot work on things without an understanding of how these work.
Another great explanation. A pleasure to watch. Your efforts are appreciated by many, I'm sure.
Many thanks!
One of the best detailed video... Sir plz explain how to adjust bottom ideal(mixture) screw
brilliant, ive the solex pbISA 32 16 different layout but this made me understand all that i need for my version - excellent work sir!
Thanks for the comments
Very good clear instruction well done. Very well planned and carried out.
Glad it was helpful!
Clear, concise - accurate and systematic - Thank you , UK
Thanks for the comments
this is the best education for carb. thank u for making this VDO.
nice editing at the whiteboard section , nice clear descriptions.
Glad you enjoyed it
It's incredible to watch your videos! It's a perfect class! By the way the explanation is made, nobody misses the knowledge transmitted! Detailed, practical, simple! Congratulations and Thank You!
Thank you very much!
Very well done and very educational , you really nailed it
Thank you SO much for this video and the others! This also helps us Traction Avant owners, as we have little to guide us, so dank u!!!! This helps SO much!!! You're my hero!
Glad it was helpful!
Another amazing video!! Thank you so much for your time
Thanks for the comments
Many thanks for this one. Your Weber series was my introduction to your channel and I was hooked so it was especially sweet to find this one on Solex-not so many Solex on CZcams as I have a 35 APIG twin venturi Solex (Alfa Giulietta Spider) awaiting my attention. I'd been lacking knowledge and therefore confidence to finish the project. Thanks to this I can see (I hope) a successful completion for my project. Great stuff-great teacher
Great to hear! and just take a close look on your carb, they all work somewhat the same . At then end its just about a few circuits with jets... and these variable vacuum carbs are easy... SU's and Srombergs are variable jet / needle types.. and a bit more hard IMO
The only real difference between the two carburetors is an accelerator pump is for automobiles that move from idle quicker to get moving.
Typically tractors that the engine speed is set by a hand throttle don’t need an accelerator pump.
This will work just fine on the old truck.
Love your videos and thank you.
Thank you for the comments Jon
The whiteboard has so much added value. Thanks for sharing your expertise! Ga zo door.
Thanks for watching!
VERY GOOD VIDEO THANK YOU
thanks a lot. Great video great explanation, perfect!!!
Perfectly explained, Well Done. Thanks
You are welcome!
Love your documentary of Old Rusty..I hope you will put up another video soon. The classic Mini is cool, but this is by far more interesting...it is why I subscribed to your channel.
Thanks
More to come!
Great job it's so awesome. Cheers Steve 👍 💯 thumbs-up
Many thanks
great. i have a similar carb on my car (a very poor imitation tbh) and this is really helpful. thanks
Hi Steve, I am a self learner. Thanks for these golden videos. Can you please explain diesel injector pumps? There is no single video on youtube that how it works..
Sorry for the late reply , as i was away for work. But thanks for the comments. I will see about it on how I can do this
Thank you very much..Great tutorial..D
Excellent tutorial as usual.
Thank you! Cheers!
I assumed from the start that sooner or later you might run into a parts issue, just due to age of the motor alone. You really did find a great substitute for that Carb. Another very well presented video, sir. Regards, Solomon
Thank you for the comments....
Thank you for the video Steve.
Consider throttle shaft wear into the Carb. body die cast shite metal, for air leaks in case of bad, lumpy or non-existent idling when the engine runs.
Thank you for the comments, indeed ... good point
A great video for beginners
Glad it was helpful!
32 AIC carbs,....if they were available on Willys then your best hope would be Willys America in California. Good resource and have always been willing to help me. I am in NS Cda.
Thank you for the comments, will need to give it another try
great job! Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Gracias muy bien explicado todo 😊
Keep the whiteboards !! I, too, need to really comprehend and understand before I lift a wrench. It's a compulsion. Keep up these awesome videos.
Thanks, will do!
best educational 👍👍👍
thanks a lot!
You're welcome!
"I couldn't find a replacement carburetor...but I had a E.F.I. setup and turbo charger from a small import 4 cylinder car...this will work" LOL
still learning!
hahah, Thank you for the comments
We have an old Kaiser Willys 4-134 stationary engine (it's on an old saw mill) with a Solex 32 BIC carburetor on it. Our carburetor does not have an accelerator pump. I can understand using a carb without an accelerator pump on a stationary engine. It runs at only a constant 1,500 RPM for sawing wood. Seems that the engine on a truck, without an accelerator pump on the carburetor, will behave poorly every time you push the peddle to the floor. The 32 BIC (or the 32 PBIC), with an accelerator pump, was used as a replacement for the Carter YF on many Willys Jeeps from about 1946 to 1954 and they're common as dirt in my corner of the Pennsylvania woods. Seems like this would be a much better choice for a truck.
Thank you for the comments Leo, and indeed that might be a better option. I will soon find out , once its all fitted.
You should change that Solex with Weber 32 Icev series carburetor, which were used in Fiat, Zastava, Lancia cars. It seems to me that mounting plates and the base are the same. You can find very easy spare parts for those carbs. And you can find even new Icev carbs to buy on internet.
Thanks for the comments, I will see once the truck is build
Is there a follow-up to this? I was hoping to see how the carb. was tuned. Extremely well done. Thank you.
Unfortunately no at this time, but its planned
I have found carb parts for odd types in India. There are lots of little shops in India which carry stock which is very very old. The easiest way to find stuff is to trawl through the teamBHP site in the vintage sections. The only thing you can't take out of the sub continent are whole cars.
Thanks for the info, I will have a look out there
@@D3Sshooter Yes India will have a substantial market for all kinds of carbs - Solex, Zenith, SU etc. And new or new old stock. The reason is their commercial vehicles and tractors, which were mostly 1950's British designs. Also Japanese carburetors, which are very reliable, are available on line.
This was explained very good and was real helpfull.
I have no idea how to adjust the float level. Where/how can I find your video about that ???
Please help !
Greetings from Germany...
I have no video yet on that part, I adjust it by bending the lip so that the fuel is about 8mm under the edge of teh fuel bowl
Hi Steve, any idea when you will be releasing the next "Old Rusty" update? Can't wait for the next installment.
Hi "Young" friend I think called "Steve...?" So that's better I don't like addressing myself to any one calling him "heyy You..." So Steve, first I have told you (I think) that I find the best carburetor jets and needles cleaner (removing the varnish) is acetone ! For many assemblies, especially bolts and nuts I use the "Permatex copper spray" very very good like in distributers and also many assemblies.....! Also I asked you to answer me about the " Wynn's products " especially the " super charge " (consistence like honey ) !!! For many years believe me I had excessively good results with that additive !!! I do follow you with great attention because we are (I think) about the same "young " age ....? So please respond to some of my comments --Thank you ! Best regards fro French Guyana !
Very careful for porous floaters who progressively sink and change the level of the fuel and even overflow and chock the engine or lite the engine fire !!!
Thanks for the comments
Very nice write up and tips, thank you
Great explanation! Thank you.
My only question is about the idle adjust needle. I get that it's being fed fuel/air in a ratio set by the jets, but you said it's not adjusting mixture and is only adjusting idle speed.
I think I see an adjustment screw on the throttle spindle that will be the throttle stop, and if so won't that set the idle speed by holding the throttle a bit open? That means there's extra air coming in past the throttle, and the fuel/air mixture coming past the idle adjust needle mixes with that air, so I think it is actually adjusting the overall mixture going into the engine.
Thanks for the comments, There are two aspects: First the mixture itself, that is set by the air/fuel idle jet on the top. Secondly , its the amount of mixture that is allowed into the intake , that is the idle screw.
@@D3Sshooter yes, absolutely. But if the throttle isn't fully closed when it's on the throttle stop, then at idle that mixture coming past the idle screw mixes with extra air before it goes into the intake. So at least on my old VW (a late 60s Solex carb), if the exhaust was too rich, closing that idle adjust screw made the mixture going into the cylinders leaner, because there was less of the idle fuel/air mixture going into the cylinders along with the same amount of air coming past the throttle.
Love your white bd you are a good teacher Thank you for sharing your knowledge
I wander if the DCD weber works just the same, also it might be good to mention that fuel pressure can effect the fuel level so its absolutely essential that the fuel pressure is right, i know you should have a max of 2 PSI on an SU carb and 3 on a weber but dont know about solex, also modern fuels can be less dense so sometimes a lower float level can help with fuel mixture settings
Thank you for the comments, and you are 100 % correct.. Float levels and fuel pressure are critical elements especially with carbs with emulsion tubes
Hi, Nice video instruction. I have a solex 30FV2 for an old Nuffield tractor and need to recondition the Carby. Do you know of anywhere I might find a gasket rebuild set??? OR would you know of a suitable replacement carby which would do a similar job?? Any help much appreciated. Peter in New Zealand
I would really like to see behind the scene - how you produce videos like this. I mean what lighting do you use, what camera, how offten you need to reposition the composition, what software do you use for the postproduction etc. How long it takes to produce video like this? Do you write some scenario for the video in advance? You are doing amazing job! Have a nice day!
I might do that one day, but here is already something.
Camera Nikon Z6, all manual configured, Carl Zeis lens F1.4, multiple prime lenses . Light, as much as possible natural, no direct sun if possible. In case there is no direct sun , I use an array of `led lights with a CRI 90. Total for about 20.000 lumen ( you can build this yourself). Scenario, that is easy .... I dream about it between sleeping and waking up.. Seems to come by itself. Composition, try always 1/3, and work with a small DOF ( shallow deph of field).. . I did a 4 years photography bachelor course a few years ago and many things like light , composition and so on applies also to video... and finally a MAC Pro with Motion and FCP.... and that is about it.
@@D3Sshooter Amazing! There is everything I wanted to know. I've also passed some courses related to photography during my studies and these days/weeks I am quite interested in video. So I really appreciate your valuable answer. Looking forward to every new video on this channel! Thanks!
D3shooter thanks for posting this video.I am stumbled and need help. My car is a British 1938 Standard 10HP fitted with a Solex 30FAI carb, it has a 1.5 needle valve ( is this correct size ) and the independent brass float has W 23GR marked on it. I have good fuel supply to carb. The car starts and runs for 5 to 10 seconds after several turns of the starter. After stopping I checked the float bowl and it had no fuel in it. The needle valve appears to have full free movement. Is there a way to clean the needle valve ? It has one fibre washer, would it help if I added a second ?. My brass float does not have any holes in it. Do I need to try and find a new needle valve and if so must it be for the 30FAI carb which is now very rare ? Thanks Eugene
I wish to know...
When the accelerator is depressed/applied. Does it mean air-fuel mixture stops flowing to engine through idle circuit or does both of them fully mixture concurrently?
white board good
Thank you for the comments
Thanks so much, can you do a video for the Solex Bicsa 34 and 34-34z1? There is none in English.
well , if i get one yes
4:17!
Thank you for the comments
What was original Solex AIC jet size? I think those BIC jets are too small, but I can be wrong..
I had them compared and are about the same, I will soon find out how it goes .
Hi Steve, where did you found the kit with the different gaskets for the Solex carburetor? Thank you.
Thanks for the comments, "carburateur winkel" in the Nederlands.. They have many parts. www.carburateurwinkel.nl
Thank you very much!
Anyone know an easy way to remove the emulsion tube? Its in a blind cavity and I’m pretty sure its side bore is plugged. I get a really bad off idle lean condition at cruise.
Thanks for the comments, can hold the carb upside down and shale it a bit. should fall out
Does the needle of air mixtures need to be opened or closed?
I am not sure what you refer two, I guess the idle mixture screw ? I tend to turn them fully closed and then two turns open to begin... once the engine is running you can start to further adjust to the highest rev and turn back a bit
@@D3Sshooter ok I will try to do that thanks allot
What could cause a hard start on my car with the same carb and a mechanical pump
possible floatlevel issue
The needle seam to be longer so the level will be much lower ....?
No stopper above the floater small axle ....?
Thanks for the comments, i guess so, after all it fired-up nicely although i found an emulsion tube later laying in the ultrasonic bath. its either from the zenith peugeot or solex... `i need to check that out
What about the frame and body?
coming as soon as the weather brakes up
@@D3Sshooter great everyone of us that injoy your channel are excited to see it and also more of your great videos. We're in Rowlett, texas.
@@bobhennig6597 That is great ...never been in Rowlett. Been in Texas several times. Stay safe oke
please help can this carburetor be mounted for willys jeep 1942 go devil engine
Thanks for the comments, yes I would think so as the original in my engine (not the BIC32) was the same as on a willys. So you can mount the BIC32, It has not acceleration pump, but that is the only difference ... You might have to adjust some jets, but that is trial and error, and they are available
@@D3Sshooter thanks for the answers

I'm just like you. How the hell can I do something if I just have no clue what I'm doing? Might be an engineer's problem.
Thanks for the comments, and I am afraid so .. lol
Sorry, but I can not help not to mention that image at 15:01 looks very much like Donald Duck in astronaut suit.
haha... maybe I am Donald Duck...
Bonjour.
J'ai découvert votre chaîne très récemment, et j'ai parcouru toutes les vidéos avec beaucoup d'intérêt. Il est dommage que je ne l'ai pas découverte plus tôt, car je connais assez bien les moteurs de Citroën Traction Avant (j'en ai eu 4, et j'en ai gardé une de 1938), très semblables au moteur de votre U23, excepté que ce dernier tourne dans l'autre sens. J'ai un site où je parle de mes voitures et de celles de quelques amis ( horta.ulb.ac.be/gvg/ ), et un chapitre concernant la réfection complète d'un moteur de traction 1938 et de ses accessoires ( horta.ulb.ac.be/gvg/tractions/cabtrac/nouveau%20moteur/restauration/index.html ).
Ce que j'aurais pu vous signaler par exemple, c'est que les bielles à coussinets minces que vous avez utilisées (moteur 11D ou ID19P) se montent avec des vis qui doivent être serrées à 50 Nm, sans arrêtoir et de préférence avec de la Loctite. Les vis 3 , 8 et 13 por serrer la culasse ne sont pas correctes (les bonnes vis, probablement perdues, doivent être semblables aux autres, c'est facile à retrouver chez Franssen ou CTA ou De Graaf). Les conduits d'huile du bloc moteur et du vilebrequin auraient pu être nettoyées avec des écouvillons métalliques de diamètre approprié. Les linguets de l'embrayage devraient être réglés soigneusement afin d'éviter toute vibration. Et surtout, je possède un joint de culasse cuivre/cuivre pour U23, de la marque Excelsior, d'origine, bien meilleur que les joints actuels dont une face est en métal gris qui se corrode très rapidement. Si vous le désirez, je vous offre ce joint avec plaisir.
Vous pouvez me contacter via mon adresse mail gvangool@ulb.ac.be. J'habite à Bruxelles ...
Encore toutes mes félicitations pour ce magnifique travail sur votre U23 !
Hello.
I discovered your channel very recently, and looked through all of the videos with great interest. It is a pity that I did not discover it sooner, because I know quite well the engines of Citroën Traction Avant (I had 4, and I kept one of 1938), very similar to the engine of your U23, except that the latter turns in the other direction. I have a site where I talk about my cars and those of some friends (horta.ulb.ac.be/gvg/), and a chapter concerning the complete overhaul of a 1938 traction motor and its accessories (horta.ulb.ac.be/gvg/tractions/cabtrac/nouveau%20moteur/restauration/index.html).
What I could have pointed out to you, for example, is that the thin bearing connecting rods that you used (11D or ID19P engine) are mounted with screws which must be tightened to 50 Nm, without retainer and preferably with Loctite. The screws 3, 8 and 13 to tighten the cylinder head are not correct (the good screws, probably lost, must be similar to the others, it is easy to find at Franssen or CTA or De Graaf). The engine block and crankshaft oil ducts could have been cleaned with metal swabs of the appropriate diameter. The clutch pawls should be carefully adjusted to avoid vibration. And above all, I have a copper / copper cylinder head gasket for U23, from the Excelsior brand, original, much better than the current gaskets, one side of which is in gray metal which corrodes very quickly. If you wish, I will gladly offer you this joint.
You can contact me via my email address gvangool@ulb.ac.be . I live in Brussels ...
Congratulations again for this wonderful job on your U23!
Hello, and thank you for the great write up. So I learned several things from you. I will have a look at you site ..and yes I also live in Belgium (oudenaarde).. I have the head assembled by now. So its a bit late for the head gasket. but will come back to you , if you don't mind.
It seems that the links don't work... I get a 404.4
@@D3Sshooter Hello. It's strange, for me the link works ...
hei hei hei Flemish. do not ever deny us white board. that is where you bring more sense of the whole story. please please do not skip explaining on white board whenever possible.
if someone does not like that ,then does not belong to this channel. must go somewhere else.
there is lot of channels where he can go.
yours
m.b.s moshitoa (s africa)
Thanks for the comments