I searched for the correct process using Forté seal conditioner. You have to use Forté oil fortifier 1st, and then Forté seal conditioner. The oil fortifier keeps the viscosity of your oil thicker and the seal conditioner takes a while before you start to notice the difference. I use Forté products on my BMW's and they do work, but patience is needed. Because what has been going on for years will not be fixed in 1 or 2 days, it takes time to make the stem seals soft again. Btw, I don't like "BMW doctor" either, he claims to have a monopoly on the truth. Nobody has a monopoly on the truth!
Looks like BMW Doctor has left the room, I am sure he’s got enough kickback from his followers who listened to him, spent the time and money, only to feel swindled.. He may have ‘some’ knowledge but he’s an arrogant prick who talks faster than his brain thinks …just like a lot of others out here on CZcams they’re out to try and make a quick buck off of those of us who are trying to find a reasonable solution, other than having to take out a bank loan to replace $50 in rubber seals…
Hello Martin, would you recommend Forte Oil Fortifier and Seal conditioner as a preventative measure? I talked to Forte, they said use 1 bottle of Seal conditioner , they did not mention about Fortifier. May I ask who told you about the fortifier, I read that somewhere else too. I am guessing the Seal conditioner makes the engine oil thinner and the fortifier helps thicken the oil a bit to balance? Forte sales person told me to use just 1 bottle of Seal conditioner as a preventative .. Any thoughts?
Hello! I have 3 Beemers and on all of them I've only ran Liquid Molly oils. I have a 2014 750Li Xdrive with 198k miles and it doesn't smoke and it doesn't use any oil. In my foreign rides, I use liquid molly and for my American cars, I use Mobile 1. Zero complaints!!
Yes you can add this directly to the oil. But to obtain better results do not take the lazy way out . Remove your valve covers and apply over the valve springs at your oil change. Apply either Forte oil conditioner or BG RF-7 and you will see the result. Results my Mini happened at 100 miles. This stuff is awesome!
@@jean-lucmartin652At your oil change, all you have to do is remove the valve cover(s) and apply directly over your valve springs. The valve springs are under the valve cover. Do not forget to not add BG RF-7 to your oil. Also, I would not start your engine for 24 hrs after the application. This will let the Forte soak and penetrate the valve seals. Best of luck. This worked wonders on a Mini with 180k miles.
I think draining the oil before putting in the luqui moly would have been the good way to do it. I don't know much about forte but I've heard great things on liqui moly. The extent of smoking also plays a fact into the outcome. And should also do a few tanks of valve clean with your fuel for best results 🙂👍
the liquid moly doesnt fix the seals, it "thickens" the oil to help slow/stop the leak, if you used the moly first or better yet forte oil fortifier, ran it for a few days and then added two bottles of the forte seal conditioner youd get a better result.. the seal conditioner take about two months to work, its not a milage based product... its actually softening the seals so saying after 900 hundred means nothing as that could have been a week or two..
Forte shell trying to get people buy this stuff frequently and to waste money... If you have an minor oil consumption and little smoke at start up if can help however if you have an excessive oil consumption and smoke nothing would help just change your valve stem seals don't throw your money.
@@theghostleader140 well exactly, it all depends on the individual case which is why some people say it works and some people don’t, but the point is it might, and it’s a little more complex than slight or excessive, because a seal can expand a little or a lot causing slight or excess and the forte seal conditioner could help fix both, however if a seal is cracked or broken then no product in the world can repair it and the seals will need to be replaced, but this stuff is worth a try first… I mean yes in an ideal world you’d “just change the seals” like you say, but not everyone has the skill set or the money to “just change the seals” but everyone can try this and it might just work…
@@514aam so I’ve just watched that video, and out of the 14 products tested 10 performed better than liquid moly in expanding the seals and 8 performed better in softening the seals, liquid moly made a very very slight improvement in the seals, but wouldn’t be classed as fixed… but it did seem to be really good at keeping engine wear down… so the product is doing exactly what it’s been designed to do according to the project farm test..
Hey, you saying you have a little misfire at 2000rmp? Did you fix it? I had the same issue on a 645. Don’t think its a misfire, if it was, your ECU will register the fault. In my case it was the gearbox solenoids and seals, ( loss of pressure for 0.5 seconds) Happens on fifth gear at around 1800 to 2000 rpm at speed of 35-40mph.
Salut Cristi, am un BMW e60 2.5d 177 cai. In vara mi-a apărut problema pe care o ai și tu, îmi scoate fum spre albastru, înțepător stând pe loc in trafic, parcat și in mers. Am schimbat și filtrul epurator cu decantor și degeaba. Soluția aceasta este și pentru motoare diesel, și cum se folosește? Se pune in motor 15 minute la relanti și apoi sa schimb uleiul?
Salut si scuze pt raspunsul intarziat. Nu stiu ce sa zic despre problema ta. Aditivul trebuie pastrata in motor, daca il pui si il lasi 15 minute nu va avea nici un efect, aditivul care sti tu de el de se tine cateva minute in motor e doar pt a curata motorul de depuneri. Parerea mea e ca nu exista solutii “magice” , ajuta dar foarte putin. Astea sunt doar sa ne imbatam cu apa rece.
@@andreif4658 turbo, simeringuri de la supape sau segmentii. Nu pot sa-mi dau seama pana nu vad masina. Si sa fiu sincer cu tine la diesel sunt cam praf 😂
Hello, Cristi. Is the car still burning oil afterwards, let's say about 1l per 1000 km or it diminished drastically? Thank you! I have an 1.8T VAG engine and in traffic it smokes from time to time and burns oil at a rate of about 1l per 1000-1500 km.
Dragoș-Cosmin BOGOI Salut, masina e mult mai bine acum, undeva la 3000 de km adaug 1L de ulei, asa am cumparat masina cu problema asta, nu stiu cat ulei ardea inainte, dar cu siguranta era mult mai mult.O sa incerc ulei mai vascos la urmatorul schimb ceva de genul 5w40 sau 5w50. La masina ta nu stiu ce sa zic, banuiesc ca ai verificat pcv valve? Turbo? Incearca ulei mai gros. Ce ulei ai acum in motor?
@@XKRYSXX Salut și mulțumesc pentru răspuns. Turbina este relativ nouă (înlocuită în 2017), PCV este înlocuit, iar uleiul utilizat acum (schimbat de două zile) este Ravenol 5w30 conform standardelor VAG. După schimb parcă am observat o îmbunătățire în privința fumului. Înainte (când am achiziționat mașina în 2007; da, o am de 13 ani) am utilizat și 10w60, dar pe atunci nu consuma ulei. Apoi am trecut pe 5w30, dar nu i-a crescut consumul semnificativ. În consecință, presupun că problema este de la garniturile de la supape, având în vedere că nu scoate fum constant (pentru a fi simeringuri de pistoane), ci doar în trafic, cu motorul încins, cel mai frecvent la turații joase și la plecări de pe loc. Oricum, ieri după ce am văzut clipul tău, am comandat Liqui Moly Stop Smoke, iar astăzi ar trebui să sosească. Apoi voi face un drum cam de 200 km și voi reveni cu impresii. Salutări de acasă!
Dragoș-Cosmin BOGOI salut, mai degraba as incerca ulei mai gros. Ma gandeam sa trec pe 10w60 dar aici deja sa racit vremea si nu vreau sa intru in iarna cu 10w60, la vara daca mai am masina cu siguranta o sa incerc. Te rog anunta-ma daca Liqui Moly reduce fumul.
@@XKRYSXX Momentan, după aproximativ 200 km, parcă nu mai scoate la fel de mult fum în trafic, când plec de pe loc. Dacă o accelerez pe loc, încă mai scoate, dar parcă nu la fel ca înainte. O să mai aștept să văd ce se mai întâmplă după încă o călătorie de vreo 500 km. PS: astăzi în trafic nu am mai observat fumul de odinioară la plecările de pe loc.
Între timp am achiziționat și Aditiv Liqui Moly Pro-Line pentru prevenirea pierderilor de ulei pe care l-am adăugat în combinația anterioară (cca. 330 ml). După aproximativ 700 km pot spune că mașina foarte foarte foarte rar mai emite fum în trafic aglomerat și în cantități mult mai mici ca înainte. De asemenea, de la ultimul schimb de ulei (aproximativ 1000 km în urmă - ulei Ravenol VMP 5W-30) nu am mai remarcat vreo pierdere de ulei (vizual, pe jojă) sau dacă există, aceasta este minimă, insesizabilă.
@@XKRYSXX I added Forte to mine. I ordered in on ebay. My oil leaves my engine and get into cylinders in 6 weeks. I ordered valve seals to be done if it doesnt work.
www.rockauto.com/en/parts/liqui+moly,2020,oil+additive,12146 This is recommended for dried out and hardened valve stem seals and other seals. I use this myself on every oil change on every BMW V8 I have owned since the N62. I recommend it to all of my customers. It works and takes between 500 to 1000 miles to see some improvement. Follow the directions on the can and look on the manufacturers website. Liqui Moly is a trusted brand. It will buy you some time until you can replace the valve stem seals. Use it after valve seal replacement to keep the seals soft as a precaution. I am also a trained vehicle technician. Please note: I am not a CZcams god or own the internet! 🤔😆
Thanks for your true honest opinion.... I followed your journey until the end.
I searched for the correct process using Forté seal conditioner.
You have to use Forté oil fortifier 1st, and then Forté seal conditioner.
The oil fortifier keeps the viscosity of your oil thicker and the seal conditioner takes a while before you start to notice the difference.
I use Forté products on my BMW's and they do work, but patience is needed. Because what has been going on for years will not be fixed in 1 or 2 days, it takes time to make the stem seals soft again.
Btw, I don't like "BMW doctor" either, he claims to have a monopoly on the truth. Nobody has a monopoly on the truth!
🤣BMW doctor, that guy he have some good video but too cocky for me.
Looks like BMW Doctor has left the room, I am sure he’s got enough kickback from his followers who listened to him, spent the time and money, only to feel swindled.. He may have ‘some’ knowledge but he’s an arrogant prick who talks faster than his brain thinks
…just like a lot of others out here on CZcams they’re out to try and make a quick buck off of those of us who are trying to find a reasonable solution, other than having to take out a bank loan to replace $50 in rubber seals…
Hello Martin, would you recommend Forte Oil Fortifier and Seal conditioner as a preventative measure? I talked to Forte, they said use 1 bottle of Seal conditioner , they did not mention about Fortifier. May I ask who told you about the fortifier, I read that somewhere else too. I am guessing the Seal conditioner makes the engine oil thinner and the fortifier helps thicken the oil a bit to balance? Forte sales person told me to use just 1 bottle of Seal conditioner as a preventative .. Any thoughts?
That BMW Doctor guy thinks he’s a know it all lol
Yes, I used liquid moly and it works!
Liquid moly is drinkable ecstasy...Did you mean Liqui Moly? Either way you sure must have been rolling!
@@funfun5656 LOLOLOLOLOL
Hello! I have 3 Beemers and on all of them I've only ran Liquid Molly oils. I have a 2014 750Li Xdrive with 198k miles and it doesn't smoke and it doesn't use any oil. In my foreign rides, I use liquid molly and for my American cars, I use Mobile 1. Zero complaints!!
Yes you can add this directly to the oil. But to obtain better results do not take the lazy way out . Remove your valve covers and apply over the valve springs at your oil change. Apply either Forte oil conditioner or BG RF-7 and you will see the result. Results my Mini happened at 100 miles. This stuff is awesome!
Hey Bob, to apply directly on the valve springs do I just need to remove the valve cover? Or do I also need to remove the cylinder head?
@@jean-lucmartin652At your oil change, all you have to do is remove the valve cover(s) and apply directly over your valve springs. The valve springs are under the valve cover. Do not forget to not add BG RF-7 to your oil. Also, I would not start your engine for 24 hrs after the application. This will let the Forte soak and penetrate the valve seals. Best of luck. This worked wonders on a Mini with 180k miles.
Great video and very honest and transparent review. Appreciate your help.
Very good, very helpful, thank you.
For future videos you will need a microphone attached to you so we can hear you better ok 👌
Thanks from the UK!
Urs looks most definitely like a headgasket seeping. Not oil issue. Camera makes smoke look completely white
😅 LOL i know that look! the embarassment when i take off with my BMW and the amount of smoke comes out 😂
Honestly , I enjoy blowing smoke all over teslas.
BTW, I don't change my oil on BMW interval schedule. I change it every 6500 miles.
Thany you, may God bless you with all the money you saved us
They say the FORTE SEAL CONDITIONER full result comes after 2 months.
I’ll try the same combination
Would love to see an update on how she's running now
I sold the car, was ok, this “magic additives” are temporarily fix. The right way and the best way is to fix the problem!
that is too much seal conditioner... it could damage your seals.
I think draining the oil before putting in the luqui moly would have been the good way to do it. I don't know much about forte but I've heard great things on liqui moly. The extent of smoking also plays a fact into the outcome. And should also do a few tanks of valve clean with your fuel for best results 🙂👍
In the USA we have something similar called Blue Devil...
A.T 205 )work for me on my 745li.
the liquid moly doesnt fix the seals, it "thickens" the oil to help slow/stop the leak, if you used the moly first or better yet forte oil fortifier, ran it for a few days and then added two bottles of the forte seal conditioner youd get a better result.. the seal conditioner take about two months to work, its not a milage based product... its actually softening the seals so saying after 900 hundred means nothing as that could have been a week or two..
Where did you get the seal from
Forte shell trying to get people buy this stuff frequently and to waste money... If you have an minor oil consumption and little smoke at start up if can help however if you have an excessive oil consumption and smoke nothing would help just change your valve stem seals don't throw your money.
@@theghostleader140 well exactly, it all depends on the individual case which is why some people say it works and some people don’t, but the point is it might, and it’s a little more complex than slight or excessive, because a seal can expand a little or a lot causing slight or excess and the forte seal conditioner could help fix both, however if a seal is cracked or broken then no product in the world can repair it and the seals will need to be replaced, but this stuff is worth a try first… I mean yes in an ideal world you’d “just change the seals” like you say, but not everyone has the skill set or the money to “just change the seals” but everyone can try this and it might just work…
Just debunked by project farm, liqui moly does condition the seals and fix them if not completely broken.
@@514aam so I’ve just watched that video, and out of the 14 products tested 10 performed better than liquid moly in expanding the seals and 8 performed better in softening the seals, liquid moly made a very very slight improvement in the seals, but wouldn’t be classed as fixed… but it did seem to be really good at keeping engine wear down… so the product is doing exactly what it’s been designed to do according to the project farm test..
Hey, you saying you have a little misfire at 2000rmp? Did you fix it? I had the same issue on a 645. Don’t think its a misfire, if it was, your ECU will register the fault. In my case it was the gearbox solenoids and seals, ( loss of pressure for 0.5 seconds) Happens on fifth gear at around 1800 to 2000 rpm at speed of 35-40mph.
What did u do to fix it
Hi, I have 750li 2012 with same issue, Can you update us on after a month now?
Y0N0W0A car is better, but still smoke.
Make a follow up video
My 760li chugs smoke when it gets hot but when it’s cold it does not smoke
You may be burning coolant
Cheaper to change the valve stem seals
Salut Cristi, am un BMW e60 2.5d 177 cai. In vara mi-a apărut problema pe care o ai și tu, îmi scoate fum spre albastru, înțepător stând pe loc in trafic, parcat și in mers. Am schimbat și filtrul epurator cu decantor și degeaba. Soluția aceasta este și pentru motoare diesel, și cum se folosește? Se pune in motor 15 minute la relanti și apoi sa schimb uleiul?
Salut si scuze pt raspunsul intarziat. Nu stiu ce sa zic despre problema ta. Aditivul trebuie pastrata in motor, daca il pui si il lasi 15 minute nu va avea nici un efect, aditivul care sti tu de el de se tine cateva minute in motor e doar pt a curata motorul de depuneri. Parerea mea e ca nu exista solutii “magice” , ajuta dar foarte putin. Astea sunt doar sa ne imbatam cu apa rece.
@@XKRYSXX ok, am înțeles. Dar o părere despre arderea uleiului? Ce ar putea fi?
@@andreif4658 turbo, simeringuri de la supape sau segmentii. Nu pot sa-mi dau seama pana nu vad masina. Si sa fiu sincer cu tine la diesel sunt cam praf 😂
@@XKRYSXX îți mulțumesc pentru răspuns.🙏
Will this work on bmw 523.i that's miss firing on 1 cylinder due to valve oil seals
Hello, Cristi. Is the car still burning oil afterwards, let's say about 1l per 1000 km or it diminished drastically? Thank you! I have an 1.8T VAG engine and in traffic it smokes from time to time and burns oil at a rate of about 1l per 1000-1500 km.
Dragoș-Cosmin BOGOI Salut, masina e mult mai bine acum, undeva la 3000 de km adaug 1L de ulei, asa am cumparat masina cu problema asta, nu stiu cat ulei ardea inainte, dar cu siguranta era mult mai mult.O sa incerc ulei mai vascos la urmatorul schimb ceva de genul 5w40 sau 5w50. La masina ta nu stiu ce sa zic, banuiesc ca ai verificat pcv valve? Turbo? Incearca ulei mai gros. Ce ulei ai acum in motor?
@@XKRYSXX Salut și mulțumesc pentru răspuns.
Turbina este relativ nouă (înlocuită în 2017), PCV este înlocuit, iar uleiul utilizat acum (schimbat de două zile) este Ravenol 5w30 conform standardelor VAG. După schimb parcă am observat o îmbunătățire în privința fumului.
Înainte (când am achiziționat mașina în 2007; da, o am de 13 ani) am utilizat și 10w60, dar pe atunci nu consuma ulei. Apoi am trecut pe 5w30, dar nu i-a crescut consumul semnificativ.
În consecință, presupun că problema este de la garniturile de la supape, având în vedere că nu scoate fum constant (pentru a fi simeringuri de pistoane), ci doar în trafic, cu motorul încins, cel mai frecvent la turații joase și la plecări de pe loc.
Oricum, ieri după ce am văzut clipul tău, am comandat Liqui Moly Stop Smoke, iar astăzi ar trebui să sosească. Apoi voi face un drum cam de 200 km și voi reveni cu impresii.
Salutări de acasă!
Dragoș-Cosmin BOGOI salut, mai degraba as incerca ulei mai gros. Ma gandeam sa trec pe 10w60 dar aici deja sa racit vremea si nu vreau sa intru in iarna cu 10w60, la vara daca mai am masina cu siguranta o sa incerc. Te rog anunta-ma daca Liqui Moly reduce fumul.
@@XKRYSXX Momentan, după aproximativ 200 km, parcă nu mai scoate la fel de mult fum în trafic, când plec de pe loc. Dacă o accelerez pe loc, încă mai scoate, dar parcă nu la fel ca înainte. O să mai aștept să văd ce se mai întâmplă după încă o călătorie de vreo 500 km.
PS: astăzi în trafic nu am mai observat fumul de odinioară la plecările de pe loc.
Între timp am achiziționat și Aditiv Liqui Moly Pro-Line pentru prevenirea pierderilor de ulei
pe care l-am adăugat în combinația anterioară (cca. 330 ml).
După aproximativ 700 km pot spune că mașina foarte foarte foarte rar mai emite fum în trafic aglomerat și în cantități mult mai mici ca înainte.
De asemenea, de la ultimul schimb de ulei (aproximativ 1000 km în urmă - ulei Ravenol VMP 5W-30) nu am mai remarcat vreo pierdere de ulei (vizual, pe jojă) sau dacă există, aceasta este minimă, insesizabilă.
i try and not work at all also forte piston ring did not help. 350 mil 5L
How often do you need to add these ?
That forte you have is for power steering mate 😂😂😂
Has it completely stoped smoking now?
No! But it’s much better.
Hi Cristi's Garage. I currently have Bars S oil leak stop. Can I add liqui moly with it or do I need to do an oil change and then add liqui moly?
Does bars oil leak work
NO!!!!!!! DONT USE BAR STOP LEAK, IF YOU USE TOO MUCH, IT WILL MELT YOUR VALVE SEALS..I HAD THIS EXPERIENCE...
Hi, could you please post a link for this liq moly product ?
Patrik Cehlár products.liqui-moly.com/oil-smoke-stop-4.html this is the official site, I bought this product from eBay.
@@XKRYSXX I added Forte to mine. I ordered in on ebay. My oil leaves my engine and get into cylinders in 6 weeks. I ordered valve seals to be done if it doesnt work.
@@8grove did it work?
@@8grove what vendor did you find on eBay that sells in us?
@@8grove mate, did forte worked or not?
Awesome video! I hope you learned the lesson…. Don’t but high mileage German cars….. go Japanese instead😂
German all the way
Forte work or not?
No
After next oil change?
You having this problem too ?
does BMW stand for, Big Money Wasted ? Lol
www.rockauto.com/en/parts/liqui+moly,2020,oil+additive,12146
This is recommended for dried out and hardened valve stem seals and other seals. I use this myself on every oil change on every BMW V8 I have owned since the N62. I recommend it to all of my customers. It works and takes between 500 to 1000 miles to see some improvement. Follow the directions on the can and look on the manufacturers website. Liqui Moly is a trusted brand. It will buy you some time until you can replace the valve stem seals. Use it after valve seal replacement to keep the seals soft as a precaution.
I am also a trained vehicle technician. Please note: I am not a CZcams god or own the internet! 🤔😆