A cost effective slab on grade home foundation.
Vložit
- čas přidán 5. 08. 2023
- We are building a radiant heated slab on grade foundation for a new home. This home will be a simple ranch home with a straight roof line. This is probably one of the best ways to build a house if you are building on a budget. Watch as we break down the process to this build for the DIY viewers that want to build thier own home
its guys like you and your crew that make this country great and not some B.S. politician. you are hard working with morals and scruples. you do right by your customers. my hat is off to you and your crew.
Thank you for the nice comment we appreciate hearing that. 😀
Big biscuit is a very hard worker we love him
Thank you I appreciate seeing comments like this.
Big biscuit
Twenty - nine yard, seven inch thick mono in just few minutes...y'all rock out pretty damn good, lol
Cheers
Wow nice work. You guys are in my hood.
Details are great ! How does Biscuit stay so slim as hard as he works ? What a great crew
Thanks. I think he watches his calories. lol 😂
Looks like buddy is in some poison ivy lol. Im sure he’ll be fine but if anyone who pets him is affected by it the oils are probably on his fur. May have to give him the ole dawn dish soap bath if anyone ends up with it. Mmm’k
The comment engineers are back on This one haha. I used your info to do a 30x40x6” in half a polebarn I bought in Indiana. I did all prep and heat, had a good group guys like yours do pour and finish. Very happy with. Appreciate the vids.
Awesome glad the videos are helping people like you. 😀
Love watching your vids Bondo. You have a great crew and pride of workmanship thats hard to find these days.
funny and informative, thanks for sharing!
Great install, Bondo and crew. Thxs for the vids!
You bet David. Thanks
I am fascinated with how little steal you guys use up north. Build that in Dallas - 10 or 20 X the steal minimum. You don't even have to dig out beams, this is just amazing to me. Well done by the way
Thanks. I think it is because we do not have the natural disaster type problems that some others have in other parts of the country.
We do lots of radiant heat slabs here in Northern Ontario. We always put 60-70 psi test on so you'll know if you punture a tube and you can quickly repair it.
Very rare occurrence to puncture a tube if everyone is careful though but in one case they did it with the wheelbarrow when he dumped there was a sharp edge that punctured the tubing.
Turned out great brother.👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I really appreciate the care and attention to detail that you put into your work. It's clear that you are a thoughtful and skilled contractor. Thank you for delivering high-quality results.
Thanks for the comment
I appreciate that.
Nice job!
They make turntables for the tubing that makes it so easy to unroll those 1000' rolls all by yourself.
The manufactured ones are expensive so I just made my own using a lazy Susan turntable, plywood and a 5 gallon pail. It works awesome.
Wow what a great job! I never saw that reverse slab like that. Very good. Thanks.
Another great job. Thanks for sharing.
I noticed that you don't have air pressure in your pex tubing to check for leaks before and during the pour. Is this not necessary?
8👍's up BB thank you for sharing 😊
Good team work
Thanks
Nice to see how it’s done up north never see that kind of thing down here in Georgia
There at 12:00,,,I'm going to do something a bit different. Anyone feel free to comment with advice, because I DO appreciate it. I'm going to use 2"x12" for outside forms such as this. But I'm going to get one of those cheap post-hole diggers I'm seeing and make 8" holes every 6' or so down the wall-lines around 16" deep, and out in the field. Frost line here is that area, and we have no Codes here. Then I'm going to buy some of those 4' cardboard 'sonotubes', cut it to 24",,,and put in those holes. Bring the tops of the cardboard tubes 4" lower than slab finished height, so that it makes a pier. The top of the cardboard pier is also top of gravel level which makes for a nice guide to spread gravel to. Also thinking of making a stem-wall out of 8" old tin strips. Line them along wall lines,,,making a 4-6" wide stem wall. Drive some 3/8" rebar beside tin and fill gravel right up to the side of the tin, resulting in 4"-6" wide stem wall. Doing this will save bigtime on amount of concrete I put in this 'alaskan slab' I'm attempting. That big sloped gravel to your outside form eats a bunch of concrete! I see some guys digging footers with 18"+ buckets,,,and man, that is enough concrete to lay field stone on! I will also do 6"x6" wire mesh,,,and a few rebars down the 'stem wall' section too. 7-8" of gravel base and 4-5" of concrete slab. 28' x 44' shop. 2x6x10 walls. I hate metal buildings! Build my own trusses,,,thanks to 'Medeek' truss design and some vids on youtube. I appreciate you guys doing these vids. I'm 70 and still think I can do most of it, but gotta hire the guys to pour it, and wire it. No problem.
Why the foam extension below the pour? Wouldn’t that increase the likelihood of water getting under the slab? Been researching slab construction methods and this is the first time I’ve seen this method. Always something to learn! Thanks in advance!!
The foam is there for insulation and no water will get under it because of the free drainage material we used under the insulation 👍🏻
Showing the placing of the anchor bolts would’ve been interesting. To me anyway.
Nice video bro.
Very interesting to see how things have to be done elsewhere...we have it pretty easy down in the desert.
Enjoy your video I'm in hvac but I build my home in nga
Very nice work Guys
Thanks John
looks good
Good!
I know every part of the county is different, but I’d like to know what you charged for that because it does seems practical, cost effective and will leave the customer with a very nice warm house.
I've done monolithic Alaskan slabs but it has a trench around for a footing.36" deep in my area.
I’m a fan of that method I think it eliminates a lot of unnecessary steps and expense seems well thought out 👍
curious what biscuit eats everyday, seems hard to retain so much mass and work a manual labor job
Mongo. Mongo eat whole cow for lunch.
Nice job there lad’s 👍👍👍👍🐕🦺👏🇬🇧manchester england 🇬🇧
Chiggers and red bugs popping in the woods 😂 . Oh great job ❤
Good job Ronny. Get yur hat on in the sun. And how about fixin the vibration screed? Thanks Bud.
I got it Fixed uncle Jim just need to go pick it up. 👊
Please explain why you don't need foundation and footers around the edge. I'm a bit confused. I've poured monolithic, but it's still three feet deep around the edge. Frostline....
It's an insulated raft slab. It doesn't need to go as deep as the frost line. Rebar gives strength under load-bearing walls, and sitting on a bunch of stone spread out the loads.
We call it a club footing here in Canada but monolithic slab is the correct term
Great video! We're looking to pour a mono slab with radiant heat next spring. Where are you in NY? We're in the finger lakes and looking to get some quotes.
Gofer is looking more and more like his father biscuit every day
Bondo, what are some recommended water stoves? Thanks in advance!
Answers the age old question. Does a biscuit crap in the woods?
I'm still learning here. Why is no footer needed?
Ground raises-up over time...leaves, debris, frost-heaves, water....what-not. From experience I would say you want to start about 4" above grade (minimum) unless you like all that stuff getting into the home.
Is Biscuit the Pope? Id yes...... confirmed!!
What would a slab like that cost a homeowner? Great job
What product is the foam youre using ? Been looking at different high density eps options . The stuff i usually get is super pricy.
Did you pressure test the heating lines after laying them but before pouring? I didn't hear you mention that (unless i missed it)
Typically, you test before and during the pour. Air leaks will show up during the pour if something happens.
What type/brand of foam did you use? Thanks.
Does that raised corner need a footing or retaining wall section to minimize the chances of sag/settling due to compaction over time?
No need for that it was packed in and tamped.
You guys are the experts. However as the owner and resident of a slab on grade house, with footings, built in 1974, I am willing to wager that slab will be a mess in 20-30 years without any footings.@@bondobuilt386
Why wasn't the main feeds, electrical and waste lines run prior to visqueen vapor barrier and any other utilities mains that are called for? Ray Stormont
Would be nice to see the mesh held up on bricks. It wont do much otherwise. Thanks.
Better poopin in the pricked bush than stinking up the breeze way again!!!
What do you do with an extra yard of concrete?
Well oiled machine there
Thank you
was the 4" oversized slab for a brick ledge? starting a house for my daughter this year you and your crew make it flow so seamlessly.. good work
4" oversized leaves 2" extra per side for adjustment not a brick ledge.
@@JRP3 Yes sir thanks
What keeps water running down outside wall from sitting on ledge? Do you flash over it? Never mind answered at tail end of video.
Thanks! I see others put gravel first then barrier and foam, what's difference? what type of foam you use? thanks for any comment!
It’s hard to insulate the haunch area unless you spray foam it. I get the insulation from a local hardware store. You want polystyrene for underground applications
It would seem to me that the plumber would do his work before you put down the foam and stone
How effective is the rebar when the lengths are connected to each other?
Berry effective it it lapped properly
Maybe is would be easier and more neat to form outside using ICF forms instead of wood boards.
Good afternoon good job guys. Just wondering why you put the insulation below the stone. In Wisconsin we put the insulation on top of the stone beneath the wire/tube. So you don't have heat loss in the stone. Is this normal/ok
We did it that way to create the haunch on the edge. There is no heat loss to the stone it is actually a heat sink. Thermal mass and will hold heat for days. Makes the system perform much better actually.
What kind of handle is that on the bull float ?
hey bondo , is there a 12v dc water pump that works well for infloor heat , looking to add infloor heat to a off grid garage but want the pump to be a 12v dc pump but not sure what specs or model pump to look at , i am going to do one run of 400 foot or so , thanks in advance
The longer your loop the bigger the pump you will need. With 1/2" pipe go 2 or 3 circuits around 250-330 ft long. use REHAU manifold and you can adjust flows to circuits, have the air vent to purge air/commission system, and see temps on supply/return. If building is off grid and chance to loose power use glycol to prevent freeze. Small size job a taco 007 pump will work. Also, put 10k slab sensor IN concrete for t'stat.
Lol Biscuit was mad at em
Do you have any concrete companies that have a gravel slinger ? The last couple of builds we have used them. They can spread it so evenly that we don’t have to do much raking.
Really cuts down on labor
Question
Other jobs have the foam wire mesh tubing then concrete. What's the reason for aggregate on this job?
My guess is to reduce cost for more concrete. In warmer climates this will work but you reduce your response time because the heat will be drawn down (backloss) and will have to heat the gravel as it heats the mass. It will work you just use more energy to heat/maintain slab temp.
@cmmartti That's not how it works. I've designed these systems for government, commercial, and residential systems for over a decade. Heat is drawn to cold in a mass, its not like a forced air system where it all naturally flows up. So the ground will suck some heat down and even out the sides of the slab (backloss) before it starts putting more heat in the structures/objects in the room above. Once again, you need more energy to create that balance, and it takes longer (response time) before the space sees the designed output into the space. Once again, in warmer climates in the south, the soil does not freeze up like northern states, so in this southern application it will still work because the ground temp doesn't go so low, but it's not a recommended practice in the radiant industry to skip the insulation. Even a cretetherem mat with an R-5 would make a difference. The only time we honestly skip insulation is for soil conditioning like slabs for walk in freezers, hockey rinks, and sports fields (football, soccer, etc) where we are trying to drive heat up and down.
What cc cost by you and how's labor I like you got a good crew all family??
How much it cost for a heated floor like that?
Are you referring to the 'footing' when you talk about a footer?, because all engineers and architects in this area refer on all drawings as footings, and when doing research they say there is no such thing as a 'footer'. the reference to a footer I could find is that a 'footer' is part of a page document.
Is that dog tied up in a poison ivy patch lol?
That's what built america. Giterdun attitude.
No John on location? Definitely a budget build.
The one thing you never wont on a concrete pour is a cold joint and the secret to pouring a successful slab is strike of at the same time as the truck or pump.
Would that method work in northern IL ? Gets sub zero here.
Yes we have the same temps here in upstate New York or worse probably.
Hey Bo do how big is the slab W P
Is this in New York? Do you really not need a footing?
What kind of foam is this?
Wondering the same thing...
Ampex would save you a days labour , not tying pex to rebar. Plus it can be any R value you require
We tie the tubing in like 2 to 2-1/2 hours on a job this size we do it so much and much cheaper.
What insulation
I was just wondering, do they use limestone aggregate, or sandstone? The crete looks good, just wondering. It appears to be sandstone. And about biscuit, back many moons ago when I was still in business, I hired a relative of one of my permanent employees for some summer money, while he was out of college, well, nature called, and he needed to relieve himself, as there were no porta johns on this remote site, he decided like biscuit to head for the bushes. Without any previous construction experience, he grabbed some soft pink material he found onsite to do the paperwork, lol 😂 not really funny though, it was fiberglass insulation, unfortunately for him, nobody noticed what he was doing until he came back, with his nether regions on fire! Straight to the emergency room, true story, he never returned, to the job. SMH! I can’t even begin to imagine how that felt, and I’m glad I can’t! 😉 I guess college didn’t teach him everything! 🤦♂️
Thats a funny story but not for that guy. LOL
I’m building the same way. Slab on grade with hydronic. But I will spray foam rather than the rigid foam board. It’s more expensive but a solid vapor barrier and good insulator. Any thoughts. Thank you
Spray foam is a good option. especially the haunch area because it is hard to insulate that area. Make sure it is at least 2" of CLOSED cell spray foam. Only thing I like better in the method I show in video is the thermal mass added above the insulation. It works great.
Thank you! I will use a thermal mass on top of the spray foam. Southern Idaho is a very cold climate too. Looks like you used 7/8” clean rock for your mass material? I didn’t see much underground work for plumbing, the plans probably call for wall toilets? Great job laying down the slab - you do great work.
Not enough insolation under concrete heat will go down and this heating pipes to low in concrete.
Did anyone pull the rebar gird up off the gravel and into the pour?
So what happens when the pex leaks
I’ll Let you know when that happens. I have done 100’s of them and never had a leak. They say pex will last 100 years
@@bondobuilt386 I’m getting ready to build and I be seen some nightmareish videos.
ever thought of a go pro to wear on body or head some SD cards n u have video to last for years just edit them n pump them out 😊 just 2 cents 2 add 😅
No air pressure in the radiant lines. Ohhhh Noooo. I bet after you chase down your 1st leak that changes.
Looks like you are screwing the plumber over.
Why aren’t you staggering the foam boards
We always Tuck tape the joints as well .
2" foam is not much, also there is no overlap.
Um, it looks like you had the dog tied up in a patch of poison ivy, how did that turn out, any funny rashes on you or the dog?
Poor dog, tied up in poison Ivy, leaf of three let it be!
NO FOOTING , NOT IN VA.
you sound like E. Emmet Walsh from Blade Runner "I need you Deck, this is a bad one, I need the old blade runner magic." czcams.com/video/uwb2t7iLatk/video.html
Does anyone else thinks the base material looks like sand?
nothing wrong with compacted sand as a base.
@@als8518 No there is not, I just never heard sand referred to as gravel.
Making the slab 4” bigger than the plan can give the framers a headache, and put the owner out of compliance with the building dept.
I pour and frame. It's called wiggle room.
@@cmmartti in parts of the country, the county where I leve for example, if you build a shed under 200SF you don't need any permits. If you plan to use 4x8 T1-11 sheets on your 12x16 shed and the framing is 4" bigger in each direction, you're gonna need extra material and more cuts on the framing and siding.. Why would this not be true?
Did an engineer or someone with some credibility sign off on this? Why would you want your plastic radiant lines touching the mesh from now until they leak? All that expansion and contraction against the steel mesh seems like it would cause a serious problem let alone no structural bearing going through the foam whatsoever. Never seen anything like this but just can’t figure out how this wouldn’t fail.
The wire mesh is just to hold the tubing in place. They are using fiber reinforced concrete.
We have been tying the PEX to the wire for 30+ years here in Canada.
No issues with that installation.
But you can also get foam board with dimples to hold the PEX as well which is a much quicker install.
Why no adds?
Those radiant pipes coming out off the floor don't you think there a little to far from were the wall will be
Looks like that wire mesh stayed on the bottom
watch and listen 17:29
@@bondobuilt386
Easy to pull it up during the pour.
Their potable water line is PVC? Not even CPVC? That doesn't seem like a good idea.
No we just put a sleve in for the pex line to be pulled through.
@@bondobuilt386 Thank God. I couldn't imagine drinking PVC water. Even CPVC is dubious.