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How To Add PAG Oil Into An AC System
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- čas přidán 29. 07. 2019
- If you've just completed an AC repair that requires adding compressor (PAG) oil to the AC system, your AC vacuum pump can be used to pull the oil in (via the AC Service Port) with no fuss or mess. I've found this to be easier, faster and cleaner than pouring oil into your new condenser or accumulator. Just attach your pump to the low pressure port, remove the schrader valve on the high pressure port, turn on the pump and let the air suction from the HP port suck in the oil via a rubber tube between the port and oil bottle.
If your ac system has been suffering from a leak, some PAG oil is lost and must be replenished. This is why many of the 12 oz freon cans come preloaded with 1 oz of oil with some type of stop-leak component. So you're basically getting 11 oz of refrigerant instead of 12. The evacuation does not pull the remaining balance of oil out of the system. When you recharge the system after replacing the component that has failed, you need to add oil to compensate for both the lost oil from the leak and the oil lost residing in the replaced component. This is all guess work. If you want a perfectly accurate amount of oil to reside in the system, then you need to have it evacuate and recharged from a professional evacuation and recharge machine. Another method is to take the compressor off (if not the source of the leak and not being replaced), measure out the amount of oil in it, then calculate the amount of oil needed to bring the amount of oil needed to bring it to the manufacturer's specs. I one time ruined a replaced compressor because I didn't add enough oil to compensate for lost oil from a replaced evaporator. The oil acts as a coolant for the compressor and lack of oil will burn out a compressor.
After the PAG oil has been added, reinstall the schrader valve and pull a vacuum on both the high and low pressure quick connect ports. Check the gauges and see if you're close to -29 psi with the pump off; if the needle slowly heads back towards zero, you have a leak somewhere. If no leaks, pull vacuum for around 15 to 30 minutes. This should remove all residual moisture in the system. Afterwards, you're ready to introduce your refrigerant.
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Windshield Washer Hose Kit (can use between PAG bottle and service port)
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#pagoil #addingpagoil
THANK YOU! I just replaced the low side Schrader valve and condenser/drier in my '01 Highlander, and I thought I made a mistake adding the appropriate amount of PAG oil before purging the system and adding coolant, but you answered my question! My AC held steady -29 vacuum for over an hour! 20 min left on the purge, then fill with 24 oz of R134a, which is according to official capacity specs, and my AC should be better than it's ever been since I bought this car 3 years ago.
Nice work!
This is sheer beauty. Glad I found it!!
FYI,. I don't think this will work well on systems with TXV vs. orifice tubs, because a TXV system may not equalize well or at all, but I suspect on an empty system of any sort, if you can feel a vacuum at any specific port, you can use it to pull oil into the system using this method.
I have a few bottles of PAG46 oil with dye and 2 R-134a systems I need to work on, but my father-in-law's Cadillac has so much crap covering up the engine guts that I am really not looking forward to digging into it, but I know it has a slow leak, and needs oil, 'cause his "mechanic" just keeps adding R-134a every few months, or when there's a complaint, saying that the real problem is too hard to fix, or won't be worth fixing... I'll get some dye into it (with oil), and see if I still agree with them about that part. Either way, the system will need much more than Freon if no one ever adds oil to it, so I'll try to save the compressor from an early death without taking everything apart.
To all the armchair QBs who are ranting about bringing moisture into the system, go read a book, and avoid AC repair, 'cause you don't get it. The system was already open to the atmosphere, so the damage is done, and that's why you pull a deep vacuum on the system, and let it sit for a while - to evaporate the remaining moisture and remove it! And also why you do that AFTER doing this!
I nearly bought one of those fancy oil injector tools from Amazon before I saw this, and I'm really glad I did!
Thanks for your support and sharing your story! You're are correct. These comments about bringing moisture into the system (in an already open system) are from those that should read a book on basic ac functions and operations.
Why would a TXV not equalize? If there’s no charge on the system and the sense bulb is trying to maintain superheat, it would be wide open during this process and easy to pull through.
This is an excellent idea, I would never have thought of it, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Very smart way of adding oil!
Thanks!
I hope you’re getting something out of these videos. At least some pride knowing you’re helping people out. You saved me some money. More importantly, you gave me the confidence to do this correctly myself and I got some awesome tools out of it. 🤓
Thanks! As a CZcams partner we get ad revenue.
This is absolutely awesome idea! To prevent future comments you should edit your description under video and say, after adding PAG oil into the system, make sure to evacuate for at least 30 mins or so to draw moisture/air out of the system before recharging AC.
Good suggestion!
@@hardlymovingpro hey maybe if they just watch the video and listen....
Don't edit...
Good point.
What is the total amount of oil in the system?
@@Adel-un8nyAround 7 oz.
What a spectacular idea. Wish I thought of it 6 cars ago. 😀
Too easy, right?
😆 this will be my 6th car/truck later as well ….. granted this the first time I’m doing a complete overhaul and replacing everything but the compressor but i still removed it and drained all existing oil out so now i can just add the factory recommended amount of oil and then charge! although those 1lb cans of freon with 1 oz of oil i believe sure came in handy when replacing single components but …. to do correctly you should make sure you can remove 1 oz of old oil so you don’t end up with to much in the system…..this method eliminates the need for those freon/oil cans and you can be more accurate with the amount of oil you suck back in so win win 🙏 thanks 🔥
Is there a way to drain the whole system of oil via vacuum? Trying to avoid taking it apart. Thx in advance
Thanks. Nice, simple and to the point.
You bet!
Thanks! I really like this idea. If you didn't have a Schrader valve remover tool, it seems that it basically would be the same if you used the manifold hose, right? What I mean is this, using your way of adding oil on the high side:
- close the high side at the manifold
- close the high side at the port valve
- disconnect the high hose at the manifold but leave the port valve in place but closed such that the high side hose is now just a loose hose connected to the high side port
- run the vacuum, open the low side at the manifold but leave high side closed at the manifold
- put the open end of the loose high side hose into a container of pre-measured oil
- slowly open the high side port valve to draw in the oil, then close then valve once the oil is sucked in
Did you add oil on the high side (instead of the low side) because it was closer to the accumulator?
Thanks again!
That could work but you have to keep the high side line elevated to allow gravity to help allow the oil to get sucked in. Otherwise the vacuum may on be drawing in air since air is lighter than oil.
@@hardlymovingpro Okay -- Thank you again!
I've always drained the shipping oil out of the ac compressor and added the proper amount before install the compressor then pull a vac
That's one way of doing it but some units come stating the amount of PAG in the compressor. You drain what's residing in the old compressor then remove the residual from the new compressor to balance it out. Also, if your system had a freon leak, you must add oil to compensate. Around 1 to 1.5 oz. If replacing components like the condenser, accumulator or evaporation, you need to add 1 oz for each. As a general rule, you want to error on the side of more oil then less.
I couldn’t fit the correct amount it would spill out.
Good afternoon family. Woooooow 👍🏼 👍🏼 Good JOB, and thank you for sharing and for the valuable information 👍🏼👍🏼🙏.
You bet!
I use the same technique in residential and commercial hvac, except I use the manifold as the straw
That'll work if you keep the manifold hose above the service port. Otherwise, you'll be pulling in more air than oil.
Thank you , appreciate your time and knowledge.
You bet!
Terrific video. Thank you!
Glad you liked it!
excellent knowledge ...thank you
Thanks!
That kinda works, but you get air and moisture back in that way. Another way is to hook both H and L hoses up while off. Pull a vacuum while opening the H and L values slowly. Once you get a vacuum shut both values off. Pull yellow hose off vacuum. Poor whatever amount oil you need in yellow tube til it reach peep glass that forces most air out. Put a freon can on yellow hose, and open both H and L values which will bet forced oil into their chambers.
All air or moisture is removed using an a/c vacuum pump.
@@hardlymovingpro Yep, Kewl then!!!!
Exactly. Can't be a ideal way of doing it
If I'm only replacing an orifice and expansion valve should I put in the original amount of oil that the system requires or will some of the existing oil stay in the system after reclamation of the original refrigerant?
No oil loss replacing those parts. So no additional oil required
Excelente técnica! Saludos desde Venezuela
¡Gracias por tu publicación y apoyo!
Great vedio, is there any way to add oil without draining 134a? Compressor having some noise at daytime
Can buy 3 oz freon cans with oil. Noise may be your clutch wearing out.
I recently changed my condenser on my 2014 Silverado and I’m pretty sure I added too much oil. Can you pump some out without removing the compressor? Thanks for any help.
Unless you have your vehicle hooked up to a professional auto HVAC machine, there's no way to suck it out. Easiest thing to do is replace the accumulator/dryer which holds a lot of PAG oil. Weight the different between the old dryer with the new and you'll know how much oil it contains. Figure around 1.5 oz or less of residual oil for the condenser, evaporator and lines. With the accumulator removed, you can blow compressed air through the lines to get even more oil out. Good luck!
Also, you want to error on the side of too much vs too little oil. The oil not only lubricates the internals of the compressor but also acts as a coolant. Too little oil will make the compressor burn out.
No it mixes with the refrigerant and miagrates with it true the system.
Very cool idea! Thank you!
You bet!
Very informative. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I did not replace the compressor or any components however I do not know if this was done. I vacuumed the system and it retained for a day with no loss. Do I still need to add oil to the system?
If the leakage showed signs of an oil leak, add around 1 oz of oil. You can get 12 oz R134a cans with 1 oz of added oil.
Awesome stuff man!
Glad you liked it!
This is a great video. Is there any way to completely drain the oil from the system without removing the compressor? Now that I have seen your video, I’d like to make sure I haven’t over-filled mine, and I believe I have.
As far as I know you'll have to bring it to a repair shop that has a professional auto ac evacuation and recharge machine.
Good job sharing
Thanks for liking!
I just pulled my evaporatore core and a little bit of yellow clear oil dripped out. I didn't realize there was even oil in the evap core.
Do I need to put oil separately into my evap core / or drier? Or does the entire system take oil through that service port?
The yellow oil is compressor (PAG) oil with UV dye. The oil circulates with the refrigerant through the ac lines when the compressor is engaged. When the cooled oil cycles back to the compressor, it keeps the compressor from over heating. Add around 1.5 oz of PAG40 to compensate for the lost oil from the evaporator replacement.
Great improvised idea ! Can you tell me the best way to add oil if I've flushed all components ,lines ,evaporator and condenser, except compressor and accumulator. Can I add directly to components and can I use Pag 46 with the dye for my refrigerant oil ? JB pump 7cfm , how long should I evacuate R134 system ?
Add 1 to 1.5 oz of PAG for each component. Recommend you replace the accumulator. Add oil via the vacuum method to distribute.
Great video, thank you
Glad you liked it!
Genius. Thank you.
You're welcome!
You could do this with UV dye as well, right?
@@markogrba1 Sure!
I messed up what happened if you replaced the condenser didn’t add oil and added abit of Freon?
You might be ok
hi!!! i have an audi tt 8j 2007 model. my first denso compressor dyed...replaced it with a good used one along with the filter/dryer..with a profecional ac freon machine.after 2 days the replacement compressor dyed also. now i have to replace again with a good used one and a good used condenser along wth new dryer and carefully clean the system from debris from the two failed compressors. manual says 18.5oz of R134a and 3.04oz of pag oil. question can i use the prof. ac machine to add the correct amount of oil or just pre-fill it to be sure?
The professional machines have a container on the side where you can add more oil. They're more plug and play contraptions where you don't need to think much to evacuate and recharge an ac system. Only problem is diagnosing problems (source of leaks, clogs, weak pumps) which the machines can't do very well.
Awesome:)
I have to change control valve on compressor on VW passat cc 2.0 diesel, and i tok refrigerant out. Do I have to add PAG oil before I add new refrigerant?
Nope if there was no release of any PAG oil.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you bro
That's a very good technique... thanks for sharing that... should I do that when I replace the compressor and the accumulator? if so, how many ounces should I pour into the compressor before it is mounted and as for the rest of the oil, should I use this method instead of pouring oil inside the new accumulator before it is installed?
1 oz for each component being replaced. For example, 2 oz if replacing the condenser and accumulator. My preference is to vacuum in the extra oil via the low pressure service port since I run into oil overflow problems if trying to add directly into the new pump.
@@hardlymovingpro In my case that I have to replace the compressor and accumulator, I've seen that it is recommended to drain all the travel oil that comes with the compressor and then add the new oil in it but some people says 3oz but also mentioned "according to your system specs." where are those specs? then other say to add oil also to the accumulator when replaced... in that case you mentioned 1oz for the accumulator... right?
I will be changing the compressor control valve and the expansion valve in an Optima. I assume these changes will not require new oil to be added. Is that correct?
If the system was not suffering from a refrigerant leak
That is right. Don't add any oil. (35 year service tech).
Good job thanks . But how can remove old oil . Or when open pipe 134a ar old is gone withe. Thanks
You don't change oil. You add oil to compensate for lost oil. Compressor oil doesn't wear out like motor oil.
@@hardlymovingpro I also said you are equivalent to a quarter of the packaging for the new oil. Thank you very much
Thank you for replying , so shouldn't i add the service manual recommended 3 ounces in the compressor then the remaining 4 ounces through the vacuum method you recommend ? The whole system takes 7 ounces of Pag 46.
You don't know the real amount in your compressor unless you drain and measure it. Otherwise, it's all guess work. If you drain, use that as your starting point on how much to add for the whole system. FYI - you won't be able to get 7 oz into the compressor.
This is brilliant!
Thanks!
great idea! Thanks
No problem!
So if I flushed my entire system of oil, could I simplify add all 8.5oz of oil my system require using this same method, by suction using the high side line?
You should try to put as much as possible into your compressor.
Yes
Wouldn’t the vacuum pull the oil out when you close it to pull the vacuum on system
Nope. Because oil is heavier than air.
My man good video 👍
Thanks for the visit!
I did an evaporator change out on 07 Nitro, it was one oily dog. The question is , if a person just adds 134a over time for leaks, will oil be depleted in system including compressor?
Also, I'm going to add 5oz oil for evaporator, condenser and drier, that amount will not "chug" the compressor?
Depends how many times you charged the system. Around 1.5 oz for each recharge before the repair.
Many thanks for that informative video
How much oil ( cc) should I add to my Hyundai accent 2018 after acondenser replacement due to an accident...this is the only and first part in the system I have ever replaced ....the system was factory condition till that accident..
Many thanks in advance 😊
Add 1.0 - 1.5 oz for only the condenser replacement. You should also replace the accumulator unless it's integrated with the condenser. For both condenser and accumulator, I'd add around 3.0 - 3.5 oz.
@@hardlymovingpro it is integrated...
@@aminammar4260 US fluid ounce. A unit of measure. 8 ounces = 1 cup. 2 cups = 1 pint. 4 pints = 1 quart. 1 quart = .946 liters.
@@hardlymovingpro
The Korean compressor manufacture((doowon )) recommends (PAG 205A )oil.. what pag viscosity grade should I use?? I have never seen that specification ( 205a),, what does he mean referring to 205a!! ...
@@aminammar4260 Don't know. Most of the Asian imports use PAG46.
in your opinion, if an AC system has lost it's gas slowly over a period of time (IE lost as gas rather than as liquid) would you need to add any more oil before re-charging the system with R134a? System holds a good vacuum for days, so I am comfortable there is no significant leak (no more than you get with a dynamic shaft seal anyway)
If there are no oil stains indicating the source of the leak, just add refrigerant to normalize the pressure levels.
That is a very nice method.
Thank you! Cheers!
I just changed the compressor, condenser and evaporator.. All of them are brand new.. Do i need to put oil in the system?.. I noticed that the new compressor already had oil in it..
Generally speaking, you should add approximately 2 to 3 oz of oil to compensate for lost oil due to the replacement of the condenser, evaporator and, I'd assume, the accumulator. Find the total capacity of your car's system, determine oil amount in the new compressor by draining (unless stated in the package), and compute the amount needed.
I change my a.c expansion valve do i need to add oil? If yes add it true the hi side line?
If just the expansion valve, no need to add oil. Otherwise, add 1 oz for each component being replaced (i.e. compressor, condenser, accumulator or line)
I’m replacing the ac condenser on my 07 Dodge Nitro because it was leaking oil. My question is do I need to add PAG oil to the compressor and the drier/receiver as well as the condenser? I’ve seen other vids where the oil was added into the condenser only, my fear is if the condenser was leaking oil I will also be low on oil in the compressor as well. Please advise
Since ac oil circulates through the entire system, it doesn't matter where you put in the new oil.
Oil miagrates all true out the system.
If my compressor is humming when I turn on high do I need oil or an new compressor
Had a similar situation. When I added around 2 oz of oil, the noise disappeared. Can't say if that'll fix your problem but worth a try.
Could you just leave the schrader valve on and use the high pressure connector?
You could if you want to. But the connector line port would be positioned horizontally, not vertically. Might get a little messy.
Thanks for the tip! I just tried it this way by disconnecting the high side hose from the gauges while under vacuum and using it to suck up the refrigerant. I poured the refrigerant into the cap of the bottle, since hose connection wouldn’t fit inside the bottle.
Great video. I am charging an old 1995 Mercedes E320. I have rebuilt the conpressor, replaced the dryer and, condensor. I know I put the proper amount of oil in the compressor. Do I need to add more for the condensor and dryer? Thanks if you have time to answer!
Add 1 oz for each new component. So 2 oz for the dryer and condenser.
@@hardlymovingpro Appreciate it. Thank you.
Can I do this with freon already in the system?
Nope
Mine has 3 caps one says b other a and c ? Couldn’t pag brand anywhere?
Thanks for the video I do have a question,
How do I remove all the oil from the AC pump & start over ?
The compressor should have a drain port somewhere around the bottom of the unit.
@@hardlymovingpro
Sorry to bother you again however if I hook the vacuum pump to the AC will that drain the oil out of the compressor and all components ?
Thanks in advance
Do all quick connectors use the same seals?? My gauges are leaking at the low and shich side couplers
Could be low quality quick connects. You can rent for free a recharge kit from most auto retailers.
If the evap core is blown, will it suck out the PAG oil from other components, i.e., condenser. Compressor...etc.?
Not sucked out but pushed out PAG oil with the leaking refrigerant gas. You'll notice oil stains on your driveway directly underneath your car which is normally water puddles from water droplets coming out from your a/ac condensation vent tube.
Does teh air compressor have a filler port? If so, then why not put it direct to the compressor with a fitting and tube for suction and eliminate a migratory problem which might not be able to migrate out of the condensor or where ever the oil travelled to?
Auto ac units are designed to constantly circulate oil through the system. That is, the oil both lubricates and cools the compressor. The oil gets cooled when released with the refrigerant via the expansion valve.
Do you add the oil first then after vacuum it so you can add the refrigerant?
Yes. If your ac was opened replacing a component (hose, compressor, condenser, etc), add estimated lost oil, vacuum to remove moisture then add refrigerant.
Is that oil can work for R1234yf System?
You'll have to check the manufacturer's specs for the car.
if the system is empty why not add oil by pouring in the line then connect the refrigerant can when you're charging it?
Line may not hold 3 oz of oil.
Exactly ... wont that allow air back into the system?
air is being draw out via the evacuation process using the vacuum pump.
After the oil process, you need to do a vaccum from the two ports rigth?....so, how come the oil will not comes out by vacuum....Sorry for the question, I'm leaning.
@@raulayala5891 you only need to pull a vacuum through one port. It will vacuum the entire system regardless
Hello, so my a/c gets hotter as I add more freon, so we have to put less freon to make it blow colder, I think it has too much oil. I was thinking of taking out the compressor and put exactly 3oz of oil into the compressor. But i do not know much oil is already in the whole system. (Condenser, evaporator, TXV) Should I take out the compressor and put 3 ounces of oil to the compressor and just ignore the oil thats already in the whole system? I have a 2014 Nissan Sentra SV.
Have to hooked up with a professional ac evacuation/recharge machine to accurately purge and reinstall oil and refrigerant
Awesome,I'll save this vid ,I'm installing new compresser,and condenser with drier,so I wasnt sure if I add oil ,if vacumm will pull it out ,but u say it wont. I'm relieved!
Okay ... good luck!
@@hardlymovingpro orifice tube is stuck deep inside hose ,so new hose?
@@hectorotani27 Use long needle nose pliers to twist and pull it out.
@@hardlymovingpro I got it ,now to see wer leaks I pulled vacumm and it didnt hold
@@hectorotani27 Live and learn!
I Introdusec the PAG oil in the compressor right before I installed it and vacuumed and charged later etc.. Is it ok? Seems working ok weeks since, but just to back check if something was wrong
If the compressor can take it without overflowing, that's okay.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks, works well a month from the initial fill-up. Hands freeze on the steering wheel. I was just asking to ensure, you can add a little ontop of pre-filled compressor.
Because the DANSO compressor I got, said "Pre-Filled" when I was turning it and looking at it, I was scratching head, - Where is any oil? lol Kind of that way, so I added a 1/3 of the PAG 100 right into the compressor ports.
What you did was fine. Sure about the PAG 100? Most AC systems use PAG 46.
@@hardlymovingpro hmm its interesting but I dont say it is that different. May be like automotive oil or comparable in the Example.
Viscosity: PAG 46 has a lower viscosity rating of 46 centistokes at 40°C.
Viscosity: PAG 100 has a higher viscosity rating of 100 centistokes at 40°C.
Protection: This thicker oil provides more protection at higher operating temperatures.
This is of what I found on the tech data about these two.
'Also says PAG 100 is used in Heavy Duty applications .
So /// I dont know, What do you think?
In A way I fu#d up “It would be like if Ford recommended using 0W-20 motor oil, and you go on and stick 10W-30 or 10W-40 in it. But i did not use much, litterally just a 3rd of a small bottle to add a little more to already pre-filled compressor to just be safe it has oil because I turned it , looked at it and I didnt trust that as "Pre-filled" of course it had some oil but looked shy of generous so. What do you think?
That was awesome, I don’t know much about ac system, but that procedure don’t cause system get air? Thank you. But is great idea.
Thanks. After the oil has been added, the air is removed/evacuated via a vacuum pump.
The way I do it does not require removing the Schrader valve. Just leave both lines connected. Remove high pressure hose at the manifold and pull vacuum on the low side. Use the high pressure line to suck the pag oil. Then reconnect and continue vaccuming to satisfied
Perhaps ... but the hp hose must be elevated above the quick connect service port to ensure all the oil gets sucked into the system; otherwise, more air may be drawn in than oil since air is lighter than oil.
@@hardlymovingpro I've seen scanner Danner do it a while back. I tried it and it never failed me thus far. Thought I'd share
Disconnect the hp line, hang it vertically on a wall and see if any oil comes out. If no oil comes out I'd endorse the method.
How much oil should i put in a new condenser for a 07 lexus es 350? I cant find the answer nowhere it seem impossible to know
1 oz for every component being replaced; i.e. condenser, accumulator, evaporator and hoses. A new compressor should come pre-oiled but not enough for the entire system.
i am going to convert an older car with an r-12 system to 134a. I should remove the old compressor oil before adding new compressor oil right? how do i do that?
Good question! When doing a conversion from R12, there will be residual mineral based oil in your system. It's been recommended to use ester oil since it will mix or blend in with the old mineral oil. PAG oils will not blend with mineral oil. There's usually a drain plug in the bottom of the compressor. If yours has one, you may not have to remove the compressor to drain the old oil.
Thanks for making this video,, My Chevy ac system had a failed compressor shaft seal,, So I replaced the compressor, condenser, receiver/dryer, and the forward expansion tube,, The old compressor tag said the system needed 9 ounces of special synthetic oil,, My new compressor from Rock Auto came with 8oz. of synthetic oil already in it,, Was at a loss on how or where to add another ounce without jacking the whole system up,, I already have new schrader valves and small engine fuel line tubing so now finishing up will be a snap,,, Thanks again,,, :-)
Glad it worked out for you! Saved a lot of money I assume?
@@hardlymovingpro well in CA the ac shops charge about 2500 bucks for what I am doing,, so,, including the cost of a chinese 1/2 horse 2 stage vacuum pump along with the other stuff,, I am saving about 2,000,,, :-)
@@darkwing4475For future reference, you can rent for free the vacuum pump, ac manifold and hoses from Autozone and other national retail parts stores.
Hello after adding oil if i continue to do vaccum to the system about 30 min the oil added get out with the vaccum (moisture )or stay in the ac hoses system????
The oil will not vacuum out
The oil will not,, vaccum?
That's correct. Oil is heavier than air.
Thank u sir... for the info..👍👍👍
@@hardlymovingpro no, the oil boils off at a higher temp than water.
If I’m replacing the drier can I just add the oil the the new drier/accumulator?
Possibly. Never tried. Don't know if the oil will evenly spread.
Great idea. I recently blew out all my freon changing out my pressure switch thinking there was a shraider valve. I see traces of of oil that blew out also. I dont think it was more than an ounce or two, not quite sure. Do you recommend to add some oil when i charge the system back up? Thanks in advance
Add 1 oz to compensate for the oil that blew out.
Hello hardly moving is there an inexpensive way to remove the oil so that you can add back the correct amount or in my case remove the oil because i added ester oil instead of pag oil ?
With a professuonal ac machine. But ester oil is ok mixed with pag or mineral oil
@@hardlymovingpro I still think i put too much in there is there a way to get some out without having to pay a professional ?
how would it affect the system if there was too much oil ?
I have a f150 2014 and i installed all new ac components because a major compressor fail. New evap, compressor, condenser, valve and drier bag. I flush all the lines with solvent. Its all new....how much oil would i need to add to the system? Do i need to add it to the components or can i add it just as you did? Thanks for any advice! Good video!
Thanks! Find the total oil capacity for your vehicle. Subtract oil amount from the new compressor. Difference is the amount you add.
02 avalanche condenser damaged in fender bender. Replaced the condenser and accumulator. Vaccumed down for 1hr System holds 8 oz oil 26 oz 134a.
I saw online that for my truck the condenser needs 1.5oz and the accumulator needed 3,so I put 4.5oz in. Is that too much? I haven't put refrigerant in yet it's not too late to drain it but that seems like more than other people?
I usually put in from 1 to 1.5 oz of oil for each component being replaced (i.e. accumulator, condenser or evaporator). 4.5 seems excessive. You can also weight the difference between the old accumulator and the new one to determine how much to add.
How much oil if you had to replace the Schrader valve on the low side port and replace the whole high side line?
I'd say 1 oz.
Do we need to physically remove the compressor and add oil to the compressor? Or is ur method used to eliminate the removal of compressor?
No compressor removal necessary. Oil does not stay stationary in the compressor. It circulates through the entire ac system with the refrigerant.
hi, quick question, when there is a tricky question i always come to you.
I have dye, electronic freeon tester with me. What i dont know is if there is a leak on condenser, how do i diagnose it,wiithout removing grill or front bumper, to check for leak on condensor (usually it is all hidden between grill or bumper), so even if use dye, or free on leak detector i cant access condensor.. is there a technique you recommend.
2) how do we diagnose EVAP leak : any tips please..
When there's a condenser leak, I can usually see a large oil stain. For a evap leak, look for oil mixed with water coming from condensation tube in the bottom of the car. Also, you can use the refrigerant detector by poking through the center or bottom floor air vents.
Was the a/c system empty of R134 when you added the PAG oil? I need to add oil into mine but have no way of vacuuming out the R134. It would be amazing if I did exactly what you demonstrated. My vacuum kit is on its way to me.
Yes...the system was empty of refrigerant due to an ac component that failed and was replaced (i.e. compressor, condenser, evaporator, etc.). You can rent a vacuum pump at most national retail auto parts stores (i.e. autozone, o'reilly's, advance auto) for free in lieu of buying one. Before charging the system with refrigerant, you can buy 12 oz refrigerant cans with 1 oz of oil already added. The problem is, they're more expensive and you don't know what the oil weight is (PAG 46, PAG100, etc.).
@hardlymovingpro
I filled R134a without evacuation process just with a can directly and now the ac stopped cooling not more than a minute especially when the temperature is high and also when AC button is pressed, the compressor makes a vibrating noise and whole car vibrates as if like breaking. So, will this oil addition helps or do you think something else or have I ruined my ac system.
Prior to this issue, My ac was working absolutely fine but doesn't cool when high temperature but work flawlessly in the evening or atleast when Sun is away.
Kindly answer as I'm a student and I cant be robbed by the mechanics for this.
HONDA ACCORD 2003 V6 😮
Don't understand. If the ac was working fine, why fill with R134a? You may have overfilled your system which can cause problems.
What if the system has oil already and i want to add uv oil to find out the leak. Do i need to suck out the older one in order to add new uv oil?
Adding a extra oz of uv oil won't hurt anything.
Hi, got a 1999 ford crown victoria ac system as came from factory never been touched is so cold but ac compressor stop cooling once and making weird noises while clutch is engaged, I turned it off till next day, started ac compressor made noise for 5 sec. then started blowing cold air like nothing is wrong.
Should i add oil because ac system never been serviced in 20 years, or it's just a bad clutch
Got 110k miles on it
Sounds like the clutch is wearing out.
2001 Jeep Wrangler, new to me. I am changing the evaporator and receiver dryer. Any recommendation on how much oil to add to the system? I am certain it has been leaking for quite a while, filled and refilled.
Hard to say without more details. Did you recharge the system several times before you found the leak? For each time you recharged, figure 1.0 to 1.5 oz of lost oil due to leakage. After taking off the evaporator and dryer, you can drain out and measure the residual amount. Figure around 1.5 oz for each component to make 3.0 oz. Add another 1.0 oz for the leakage for a total of 4.0 oz. Too be completely accurate, drain out and measure amount of oil in your compressor. Blow compressed air through your lines to push out residual oil. Get the specs on the total capacity of the system and you'll know exactly how much oil to put into you a/c system.
@@hardlymovingpro If I use the compressor drain measurement would an orifice tube prevent me from blowing through the system?
@@hardlymovingpro And thanks for taking the time to reply
No but they're cheap and I'd replace it.
I have a 2006 Saab 9-5 and I just had to replace the A/C Compressor (Nissens 89208), Condenser w Dryer/Accumulator included (Nissens 89208). I added the oil that came with the A/C Compressor in packaging inside compressor. Should I have added oil to the condenser/accumulator dryer also? If so how much? I don’t know if it had oil inside the dryer/accumulator it was already mounted on condenser. Any help on this would be appreciated. Thanks
I'm assuming your replacement compressor came pre-oiled ... meaning that the additional oil you added to it compensated for lost oil in the condenser and accumulator. If you added around 1 oz, you should be okay.
Thank you so much this was very helpful.
@@sevenday4139 No problem!
Question, i'm installing a new compressor, mine died.... it comes with some OZs of pag oil but was wondering, once i install the ne compressot and take it to a shop that will represurize my system... will they put in pag oil as well?
No additional oil needed unless you replaced other ac components (i.e. condenser, accumulator, lines). Around 1 additional oz per component.
MasterCool manufacturers a Pag oil injector . It is an enclosed aluminum canister that lets the vacuum pull Pag oil through the high side service port without removing the Schrader valve and without letting moisture and contamination in the system . Amazon $37.00 7/21/23
Thanks for sharing! You're tool would work fine for a "closed" system still containing refrigerant pressure. The technique used in this video is for a opened system due to an ac component being replaced.
Cool idea 🤙
Thanks!
Late post, but would I need to add oil if I just do a evacuate and vacuum? I am not replacing any components.
Was there a leak? If so, add 1 oz otherwise none.
Refrigerant arw not scape if follow this procedure?
This procedure only works on a "open" system ... meaning there's no refrigerant.
My method is this using the small 2-4 ozs charged cans of oil. After the system is evacuated I introduce the oil via the HIGH side. Since the system is iin a vacuum it sucks the oil in fairly rapidly. This is with the engine NOT running. Similarly I introduce the first can of freon this way. Sometimes , depending on the car, you dont have to jumper the low pressure swith which usually prevents the clutch from engaging due to low system pressure. I then start the vehicle and introduce subsequent cans as a vapor ( can right side up) into the LOW side.
Thanks for sharing! There's nothing wrong with the way that you're doing it. The only suggestion I'd recommend is to introduce the oil via the low pressure service port that feeds into the compressor. If added to the high side, you might have problems with the excessive oil trying to pass through the expansion valve after starting the engine and engaging the compressor.
@@hardlymovingpro Never thought of that and that is a very good point , to feed into the low pressure side. Thanks!!
@@hardlymovingproBut isn't that the same thing you did pulling 3 oz of oil through the high side while pulling a vacuum through the low side. Confused...🤔
What happen if you have a bad clutch?My a.c. cools only when I rev the engine to 1500 rpm.Is that the sign of a clutch going bad?Or the compressor going weaker,Why does it go weak,What is going bad inside?
A bad clutch will not engage the compressor (you'd get no cooling) or a mechanical grinding noise. Think your problem is low freon.
Can low oil cause a rattling sound? I checked my clutch and pulley for movement while belt is on
Rattling could be a worn out clutch.
Nice video thanks .. where’s part 2??👍
Thanks! Here ... check out this video: czcams.com/video/qBfYKY9jD8c/video.html
How do you know how much oil exists in the entire system if the system had a leak and was losing oil? Do you have to remove every single component one by one and pour out the oil to measure? Is there an easier way?
Pittstop R134A Oil Checker 2 Pack #5030A
Around 1 to 1.5 oz need for a leak fix.
I think I put too much pag oil in my A/C after new compressor and condensor. When I push the low pressure it squirts and bubbles out. Also when I hit the high for 1 second lots of fluid on my hand drenched. How do I remove some oil
Drain plug in the compressor.
Want your opinion.
Got. 2001 Tacoma 3.4L. Got it evacuated, the mechanic pulled 4.8oz of R134a and 0.75ml of PAG46. The system take 23oz of R134a and 7.75oz (229ml) of PAG46 Oil.
I'm putting a new Reciever Drier on the system that takes 0.7ml of PAG46.
Do you think I should match the required for the new part + what came out in evac for oil, = 1.45ml? Or pull the compressor and measure/replace?
First off, did you id the source of the leak? 4.8 oz is extremely low.
@@hardlymovingpro I'm not certain that there is a major leak. The truck is 20 years old and to my knowledge, the refrigerant has never been recharged. I don't know how long it would leak 18.2oz in a "secure system," 0-20 years? I've checked the sight glass every month and it's stayed the same visually while running. I'm going to pull a vacuum on it on Monday and if it holds at 30lbs of mercury for a couple hours before attempting anything. Replacing schrader valves as well.
@@hardlymovingpro I decided instead of having the chance of chasing leaks and finding failed parts to just rebuild the entire system.
Thanks
My A/C lines got cut on my 2006 Jeep Commander. Will my compressor be starved of lubricant now and burn out? I don’t want A/C anyway, as it’s more trouble than it’s worth. Trying to avoid having to buy/install an A/C compressor idler pulley. Can’t I just permanently disengage the compressor clutch by pulling a fuse or something?
If there's no refrigerant in the lines due to the cut, your ac compressor will never engage.
Hi! I have a 2011 Hyundai genesis coupe 2.0t and the clutch on my ac just grenaded so I got a new compressor which came with 3 oz of oil in it, but the sticker under the hood recommends 5oz of oil in the system so I added 2 oz to the compressor, I am also replacing the drier and expansion valve. Is 5 ounces in the compressor good enough (extra 2oz to account for new parts)?
Add 1 oz for each component being replaced; that being the condenser, accumulator and evaporator. Measure out the oil in the old compressor via the drain port. Compensate for the difference with the new compressor. If only old had 1 oz and the new has 3 oz, you're over by 2 oz ... unless you replace the condenser and accumulator ... which should have 1 oz each. These are all estimates. You want to error on the side of more vs less oil.
@@mr.e2136 Yes.
You bet!
U had a compressor burnout ,!! . You will never get all the trash out of that system. I would replace the condenser , flush out all the lines , flush out the evaporator , pore your correct oil level into your new filter dryer then vacuum for one hour.
When a compressor goes out in a system it leaves all kinds of junk in the system. The condenser is like a hunny comb. U will never flush out that thing.
And after that you return the schreder valve you vacuum the system and add freon?
That's correct! You got it.
I have a question about this procedure, adding PAG by this method is it possible to damage the vacuum pump?
Nope because oil is heavier than the air being pulled.