In this video I'm discussing the different types of titanium frame finishes. Contact info: organicbikepacking@gmail.com Reginald Scot's video: • How to clean a Titaniu...
I just learned of another thing to do to really get it looking factory fresh. Spray some WD40 onto a paper towel and wipe down the frame, especially after doing the burgundy scotchbrite technique. WD40 was originally developed to clean titanium and a few other metals for the Aerospace industry. I tried it on my titanium seat post and it works great. 😄👍
Corrected (from what I understand): WD-40 is a "Water Displacement" lube. I use it on my dirt bike chains after power washing all the dirt off the chain. Then spray the chain with WD-40 to get the water out before I add the chain lube. WD stands for "Water Displacement", and 40 is the 40th formula that finally went on sale. I worked for a Ti. Bicycle manufacture in the mid 90's that was in Michigan USA, (Nuke Proof. Now in Europe), and a trick they used after scotch bright on the frame, was wipe it with Lemon Pledge, (no kidding), for a finger print free finish that lasted quite a long time. The frame can also be buffed to a chrome like finish pretty easily.
This vid is spot on regarding the different ti finishes and maintenance. Get a hand brushed, mill brushed, or bright brushed finish because they are the only ti finishes that permit you to easily brush out scratches with an Scotch-brite pad. Many manufacturers try to sing the praises of a cheap bead blasted matte finish (like Moots) because that is the cheapest cost finish to produce (they simply put the frame in a bead blasting cabinet and blast it with media).They advertise this finish heavily because it’s cheap to produce and increases their ROI, not because it is a quality finish because it isn’t. It’s simply the cheapest for them to produce. But that cheap finish will show all scratches and cable rub marks from day one. Those bead blasted matte finishes are also a magnet for holding dirt and they are a PITA to try to keep clean. Also, with bead blasted frames you can’t brush out scratches unless you are prepared to brush the entire frame by hand yourself.
You explain things very well. I sold my 2021 Niner carbon hardtail and am thinking of the pro 29 frame if i build another bike, will use the Fox 130 34 fork and full XO groupset, probably a Thomson seat post and get a nice light set of carbon wheels, i had YISHUN XC with DT 180 hubs, SUPER light at only 1240 grams weighed not advertised. I have bought 2 sets of wheels from them and very pleased, takes about a month or so depending if they have the 180 hubs in stock.
Thanks a lot, that is a really helpful and informative video about types of finishes. You definitely made me choose an easier way, to deal with that decision... 👍👍
Very informative...thank you. Two questons: Anyone know how well the annodizing (logo) holds up on titanium? I'm wondering if it easily gets scratched. Also, what is that rear cassette on the bike being cleane up (Lightspeed Cherohala)?
Quality/quality control: both are good in general, but IMO LS seems to represent their brand better such as using badge in stead of sticker on the frame. Value: Lynskey has better prices as of right now, and I believe they hold about the same value in the long run. Stiffness: I'm going to assume "fast for stiffness" LS is about 400grams lighter than Lynskey, therefore I believe LS is faster. (fact check me on my theory).
I just learned of another thing to do to really get it looking factory fresh. Spray some WD40 onto a paper towel and wipe down the frame, especially after doing the burgundy scotchbrite technique. WD40 was originally developed to clean titanium and a few other metals for the Aerospace industry. I tried it on my titanium seat post and it works great. 😄👍
Corrected (from what I understand): WD-40 is a "Water Displacement" lube. I use it on my dirt bike chains after power washing all the dirt off the chain. Then spray the chain with WD-40 to get the water out before I add the chain lube. WD stands for "Water Displacement", and 40 is the 40th formula that finally went on sale. I worked for a Ti. Bicycle manufacture in the mid 90's that was in Michigan USA, (Nuke Proof. Now in Europe), and a trick they used after scotch bright on the frame, was wipe it with Lemon Pledge, (no kidding), for a finger print free finish that lasted quite a long time. The frame can also be buffed to a chrome like finish pretty easily.
@@EarthSurferUSA What buffers do you use to maki mirror finish ? Thank u .
This vid is spot on regarding the different ti finishes and maintenance.
Get a hand brushed, mill brushed, or bright brushed finish because they are the only ti finishes that permit you to easily brush out scratches with an Scotch-brite pad.
Many manufacturers try to sing the praises of a cheap bead blasted matte finish (like Moots) because that is the cheapest cost finish to produce (they simply put the frame in a bead blasting cabinet and blast it with media).They advertise this finish heavily because it’s cheap to produce and increases their ROI, not because it is a quality finish because it isn’t. It’s simply the cheapest for them to produce. But that cheap finish will show all scratches and cable rub marks from day one. Those bead blasted matte finishes are also a magnet for holding dirt and they are a PITA to try to keep clean. Also, with bead blasted frames you can’t brush out scratches unless you are prepared to brush the entire frame by hand yourself.
Thank you; I really appreciate you noticing.
I found this video incredibly useful. Thank you!
Thank you. Glad you found it useful.
You explain things very well. I sold my 2021 Niner carbon hardtail and am thinking of the pro 29 frame if i build another bike, will use the Fox 130 34 fork and full XO groupset, probably a Thomson seat post and get a nice light set of carbon wheels, i had YISHUN XC with DT 180 hubs, SUPER light at only 1240 grams weighed not advertised. I have bought 2 sets of wheels from them and very pleased, takes about a month or so depending if they have the 180 hubs in stock.
Thank you Jim. That sounds like a good build.
great video.
Thank you.
Thanks a lot, that is a really helpful and informative video about types of finishes. You definitely made me choose an easier way, to deal with that decision... 👍👍
Glad to hear this helps. Congrats on your new bike.
what clear tape did you use on the headtube to prevent the cable rub?
Which finish shows the least amount of the oily finger prints? I've seen certain Ti finish really show the finger prints.
We miss you b
Thanks brother; good to hear from you. I miss everybody too.
Very informative...thank you. Two questons: Anyone know how well the annodizing (logo) holds up on titanium? I'm wondering if it easily gets scratched. Also, what is that rear cassette on the bike being cleane up (Lightspeed Cherohala)?
The logos are normally sand or media blasted onto the frame, so slightly etched the frame. You can scotch brute the frame and it won’t affect it.
Between Litespeed and Lynskey which brand do you prefer? In terms of quality, stiffness, and value.
Quality/quality control: both are good in general, but IMO LS seems to represent their brand better such as using badge in stead of sticker on the frame.
Value: Lynskey has better prices as of right now, and I believe they hold about the same value in the long run.
Stiffness: I'm going to assume "fast for stiffness" LS is about 400grams lighter than Lynskey, therefore I believe LS is faster. (fact check me on my theory).
@3:45…scotch brite?
Commonly used on Ti.
Next time ask Austin to do the finishing ask for a surprise ano
Would've been better to show some examples of bead blast finishes instead of showing a laptop -- otherwise very informative, thanks
Beautiful welds. Not going to get those from china.
A number of brands have their frames built in China, and their welding is a s good as anywhere else. There are good craftspeople in every country.