This video is 10 years old and I'm just now finding it! Such a great example and excellent explanation of how to sharpen your convex blade! Thank you- 10 years later!
Same! I want to find an ultra rough strip like he has but everything I end up finding is smooth leather. Even the horse strop I have that’s supposed to be rough on one side smooth on the other the rough side just flattens down and is worse than the smooth side.
I think the convexing is always a very good idea when we need a very sharp knife with easy maintenance. But it changes how it looks decently and will reduce its resale value much. I have Spyderco Pacific Salt. I once sharpened it but didn't convex it. I remember I cut my hand with it when cutting an orange. I need to convex it soon not to cut my hand again. A super sharp knife seems safer than a regular sharp knife to me. Thanks.
The only reason I know anything about this channel is because Dutch Bushcraft Knives, Mikke and Maarten, idolize this man. And rightfully so. Instant subscriber here.
Another great video! Thank you for moving the camera so we could see your sharpening angle from the side. That's what I really needed. And for the comparative grits, and for the leather differences, and ....... oh, it was all good.
I love that knife and after watching so many of your videos I think you enjoy taking good care of your knives as much as owning them.I hope your holidays are filled with peace.
Hello , its me again.....with some feedback - again its one of the most usefull videos for good sharpening....at least for me - i found some green compound and used it on my home-made strop just like you said here ( heat treatment in the kitchen) and now all my knifes are razor sharp ( or like you say "scary sharp" ).....once again thank you for your tips - sayonara !!!
I enjoy watching your videos. They are very informative. My friends and I enjoy watching you process the game that you harvested while hunting. Thank you for your videos.
4 years back in time and still good advice... and entertainment! I mentioned in another post I love your cooking and hunting videos, but originally (I'd forgotten) I found and subscribed to your channel looking for these types of videos on sharpening and stropping. Great videos too! Keep up the great work.
Thank you very much for loading your love and dedication to the blades up to the internet so I can take care of my stuff the same way. I learned karate in my youth and was always very interested in your culture, the principles of showing and learning and perfection in everything so I’m very happy to have your guidance at hand when it comes to blades.
Yes. The black has a very strong abrasive power and makes the bevel convex. The white is very strong but very fine too. So it doesn't make the bevel convex but polishes the edge super sharp. Thanks.
This is a very helpful video. Especially in the way you showed the proper stopping angle by using two different camera angles. Also, I found the part about how to properly strop the tip to be very helpful. Please consider making an updated video showing how you currently strop and what materias and compounds you use. Thanks!
Need so much help with my large outdoor knives. Got some “good ones” that turned out to not be so good and need to be sharpened. Thanks for this video.
Virtuvoice, I’ve not been subscribed very long, but I am pleased to have found your playlist. Just listening and watching you work entertains me quite pleasantly. One year ago I began sharpening and I was no good!!! Now, I am better, not good, but always improving; improved significantly once I realized my technique was but a poor interpretation of a visualization. In other words, I was just mimicking the action. So, In my minds eye, my intended technique was NOT my ACTUAL technique. And hence I was incredibly inconsistent. But one day something clicked. I used my senses of sound & feel, I incorporated a bit of high school geometry, and Now I can put a edge on my blades. And when using these same senses when stropping,, I instantly became next level. But, I have need of your advice if you could be so kind to consider a response. I also LOVE convex. I sell handmade knive for my bladesmith friend, and I do lots of knife testing. Over time after many tests, I learn about blade geometry performance. And I agreed with you about this geometry. I’ll speak more of this in other video comments for now my 2 quick questions are: 1. Can you give me tips on getting my convex edge to its sharpest potential. I am struggling to get my (small/micro) bevels to reach full potential sharpness. Bigger size convex I am better and can get ok sharp. 2. Is there different levels of strop (leather) firmness? Perhaps Different thicknesses? What are benefits and drawbacks? 🤷♂️ now with better feel for stropping, I would prefer other levels of firmness but I can’t tell you why I feel this need. 🤷♂️ I feel like my current (one & only) strop is about, mmmm 🤔 medium firmness. Oh, I also struggle,,, my v edge quickly con-vexes from just stropping and feel less sharp. Any tips or techniques you could write me about? Thank you 🙏 I am excited to find so many of your episodes available . I get to bing watch 😎. Btw, I only comment on inspiring videos. I shall comment on many more of yours, I am sure! Ps If you address my question in this video, I apologize. I have only just started it. Thank you kind sir! Very pleased to find this channel... 🙂
Thank you for your vid! You obviously know what you are doing, but when you actually sharpen the knife your technique is great. You don't get that good without careful practice :) By the way, that knife is beautiful even if the handle is slick when wet. Those leather rings used to make the handle have a historic flare!
@bradwjensen I watched the video now. When I use my regular waterstones and Edge Pro sharpening system, I put the edge onto the stone in both directions. But I put more power in pushing diredtion and less power in pulling direction. It's because I feel in my hand that in pushing direction the edge is beeing sharpened. But in case of the leather strop, if you push your knife onto it, the leather will surely be cut by the edge. So I just do pulling on the strop. Thank you!
@ferdia6 It's my individual habit to put much compound. I feel like I can more aggressively strop off the edge problem like micro rolls or micro chips after contacting bones in deer dressing on the thick compound. Just for regular maintenance less compound will be better. Thank you!
Great and informative video, as always. I also had problems applying the green compound to the smooth side of my strop until I used WD-40 to spread the compound out evenly on the leather. Works like a charm. You should give it a try.
Since I strop kitchen knives too, I find that mineral oil works great. I kind of “melts” the compound and makes it easy to evenly spread the compound on the leather.
@sauliusipsc Now I mainly use a strop with very thin leather. So the edge doesn't sink into the leather during stropping and the edge goes very sharp. But its edge is weak. The sharp edge doesn't keep long. So I sometimes get back to this strop with fairly thick leather when the steel is relatively soft. It's because the soft steel needs deeper edge angle. Depending on the steels I use different strop for their proper edge angle. Thank you!
I sometimes use water stones to restore a damaged convex edge or to remove the micro V bevel made by the maker on the convex primary bevel. But necessarily a leather strop gives perfect sharpness to a convex edge. Thanks.
VG10 is on soft side and easy to sharpen. All Fallkniven knives have a micro V bevel and don't take this way unless you remove it at first. They recommend their stones to sharpen their knivs. Please take a look at my video "The real convex Fallkniven F1". Thanks.
@virtuovice: Thank you I will now use the white compound as you said as soon as I acquire some. Thank you for the good informational videos. FYI I also have found the Busse knife to have inferior edge holding and sharpness but to not chipneven with extreme use. in my opinion Busse is only good for machete type blade or extreme VERY hard use smaller blade that will be resharpened but not damaged due to
@bubajeb I know Fallkniven fans love their DC3 or DC4 whetstone. In my experience stropping the knife with a fine compound loaded leather after stone sharpening increases the sharpness drastically. Thanks.
@Dtmdeman I am now using the DLT leather strop paddle. Of which leather is reverse side and very fine. It takes any compounds very well without heat. I don't use the green compound for any purpose now. The pair of black and white is excellent. The white bar and the DLT paddle are selling at DLT Trading or Crystal Falls Trading. Thank you!
The black compound comprises very coarse and hard abrasive particles and grind the metal very aggressively. The green compound comprises medium sized soft particles and its abrasive power is weak just in my opinion. The white compound comprises very fine and hard particles and polishes up the edge razor sharp. So I always skip the green compound now. Thanks.
@CanItAlready Surely the smooth side doesn't strop well. The rough side takes the compound better and strop the knife better. I recently use the DLT strops which has the rough side up. Thank you!
@ayokay123 Yes, I like the Bark River blade geometry very much. Its convex is completely continuous from the starting line to the edge, while the F1 has a fairly wide flat beveled portion on its spine side and a deep angled convex bevel is blended onto it. The Fallkniven WM1 has the same blade geometry as the F1, so I did full height convexing on it and got razor sharpness finally. If I did the same thing on my F1, too, I had to grind off its cool black coating completely. I hate it. Thank you!
This must be an old one because I watched one of your videos the other day and said you don't use green compound anymore. You use black and white. That's what I use as well 👍 love your videos.
@virtuovice Thanks, I was actually able to get my opinel razor sharp regardless. Yea, the kitchen knives are like that which is why I was able to convex the edge so easily. And yea, with it cutting stuff all the time and hitting cutting boards and plates it would probably be mind numbing to worry about chips all the time. Thanks, looking forward to your next vids.
@nightwalker2830 When the black compound doesn't settle on the leather well, to heat the leather using a hair dryer seems good way. Heat it slowly step by step and you will reach the good temperature soon. Then the black compound will melt and settle onto the leather appropriately. Thank you.
@MrMike2blu Thank you. Yes, from KSF, but now it is sold out. If you ask them they will make it I guess, because it is an decent stuff. It cost me around 40 dollars.
what an excellent tutorial, thank you. can you please let me know why you add so much compound to strop? I've often read to put on too LITTLE rather than too MUCH. Have you tried both methods and settled on this one? Thanks again
@ayokay123 I agree with you. The edge geometry of the F1 is deeper than Idun. So we cannot make it sharper than Idun despite of any attempt in my opinion. Some guy explained me that it's because the F1 is a survival knife, not a hunting knife. Thank you!
3V is a very high wear resistant steel but at the same time if it had a small angle it would chip relatively easily. So Bark River takes fat geometry to make the edge angle larger on 3V Bravo1 and Bushcrafter, or secondary micro bevel on 3V Gunny and 3V Fox River in my experiences. They will say I am wrong in high probability though. Anyway for the reason their 3V knives are a bit difficult to take the same keenest edge as their A2 knives in my opinion. Thanks.
It is Fallkniven NL5 IDUN and you can find it at Heinnie Hayness in the UK. It's a beautiful knife but a difficult knife too because it has a micro V edge from the factory and its leather washer handle is thin and slick. You have to get rid of the micro V edge at first to strop it sharp. In my experience only the Bark River knives have a genuine convex edge as a mass production knife. Please go to KnivesShipFree, DLT Trading, or The-Knife-Connection to check them. Thanks.
@OliRancidTen I have once said I didn't need to strop around the tip this much. My hand movement was not good. I pulled the knife a bit at first. That was no good as regular maintenance when I didn't intended to sharpen the dulled tip. Thanks.
@drkknight614 The Opinel knife is cheap, so I understand it can have a wavy edge. And I was not even able to notice that my Opinels had a secondary edge on one side. Anyways its edge angle is pretty shallow. So I guess you can fix it with middle height grinding with 240 or some grit sandpapers on leather backing. The full height grinding will take you extraordinarily much time. Thank you!
@310shadow310 My regular quality kitchen knife is easy to take micro chips in regular kitchen jobs. Regularly I let them there and strop it. It's my regular way on the kitchen knives to keep them sharp. I don't think the stone itself would make little nicks on your edge. I use #1000 and #3000 stones. Thank you!
Interesting to me to see pre-made strops with the smooth side up because the first one I bought, from a woodworking website, had the rough side up. It came with aluminum oxide in powder form that gets my woodcarving knives dangerously sharp.
@Freedom100fan I just checked up the PHK. It's a long knife as Bark River Custom Skinner. PHK has a crescent shape blade and a good ergonomic handle, which must be good for careful and speedy skinning however not very good for getting back muscle in my opinion. I think it is for a big game hunter who needs leather more than meet. As you know I like removing the back strap best in dressing deers. For that purpose I think Bark River Custom Skinner should be better, just in my opinion.
@ncomplex1 The black is coarse, the green is fine, and the white is super fine for a real razor. The green grinds more metal than the white but doesn't sharpen an edge more than the black in my experience. I guess it's because the size of abrasive particles in the green are not so fine as the ones in the white. The DLT leather strop takes the white compound exclusively well without heat. They are selling at Sharpeners < Bark Rivers < DLT Trading or Crystal Falls Trading, not at KSF. Thank you!
Hello i was watching your videos and i find them very usefull .....you always use that white or black compound.....to be more precise what is it? ( and maybe you can tell me what other compounds are good to use if i dont find the same as yours on the market......really good video , thumbs up from me ! Thank you !
@TheWoollyMammoth I now don't use the green compound at all, because it does not make the edge any sharper than the black compound. Instead I now use Bark River white compound after the black compound. It makes the edge twice sharper. Thanks.
This video is 10 years old and I'm just now finding it! Such a great example and excellent explanation of how to sharpen your convex blade! Thank you- 10 years later!
Cant stop watching this guy,he’s great.
Same! I want to find an ultra rough strip like he has but everything I end up finding is smooth leather. Even the horse strop I have that’s supposed to be rough on one side smooth on the other the rough side just flattens down and is worse than the smooth side.
same to me ...Fascinating
I think the convexing is always a very good idea when we need a very sharp knife with easy maintenance. But it changes how it looks decently and will reduce its resale value much. I have Spyderco Pacific Salt. I once sharpened it but didn't convex it. I remember I cut my hand with it when cutting an orange. I need to convex it soon not to cut my hand again. A super sharp knife seems safer than a regular sharp knife to me. Thanks.
The only reason I know anything about this channel is because Dutch Bushcraft Knives, Mikke and Maarten, idolize this man. And rightfully so. Instant subscriber here.
Another great video! Thank you for moving the camera so we could see your sharpening angle from the side. That's what I really needed. And for the comparative grits, and for the leather differences, and ....... oh, it was all good.
This should have millions of views. Thank you.
Great recommendation for starting at the tips when stropping. Thanks very much for another great video.
Excellent video as always. I learn a lot from you every time I watch. Thank You
I love that knife and after watching so many of your videos I think you enjoy taking good care of your knives as much as owning them.I hope your holidays are filled with peace.
Great tutorial on proper sharpening, thanks for posting 👍😁
Hello , its me again.....with some feedback - again its one of the most usefull videos for good sharpening....at least for me - i found some green compound and used it on my home-made strop just like you said here ( heat treatment in the kitchen) and now all my knifes are razor sharp ( or like you say "scary sharp" ).....once again thank you for your tips - sayonara !!!
Excellent video. Very informative. Thank you. I enjoy all of your CZcams presentations.
Wow! That is great lesson of sharpenning knifes! Great videos!!! Keep it up and thank you very much.
Great video!!! The 3D side angle was awesome with the marker as tutorial. Much appreciated!
I enjoy watching your videos. They are very informative. My friends and I enjoy watching you process the game that you harvested while hunting. Thank you for your videos.
Stropping is a lot of fun. I enjoy it. I also enjoy your videos.
It is entertaining watching your trained hand sharpening steel. Thank you for your wisdom. Carl-California USA
4 years back in time and still good advice... and entertainment! I mentioned in another post I love your cooking and hunting videos, but originally (I'd forgotten) I found and subscribed to your channel looking for these types of videos on sharpening and stropping. Great videos too! Keep up the great work.
Beautiful technique! I learned of your channel recently from DBK, and I am very grateful that you have shared your knowledge and passion.
Thank you very much for loading your love and dedication to the blades up to the internet so I can take care of my stuff the same way. I learned karate in my youth and was always very interested in your culture, the principles of showing and learning and perfection in everything so I’m very happy to have your guidance at hand when it comes to blades.
Excellent video. I followed this video & got my dull convex grind Wes Whipple Bowie sharp in no time. Thank you! Greg from Kodiak.
Yes. The black has a very strong abrasive power and makes the bevel convex. The white is very strong but very fine too. So it doesn't make the bevel convex but polishes the edge super sharp. Thanks.
I so appreciate you videos. Thank you.
"The reason is...I don't know". Hahaha...Keep up the good work Virtuovice, I have made my sharpening technique better by watching your videos.
Hello again, Doctor. I agree with you. Stropping is an activity to be enjoyed. I like the sound it makes!
Thank you! The part on strop preparation was where I have been having trouble.
A very good video, you have made me think differently about how I strop my knife. Thank you, so glad I found this!
Thank you for the demonstration. You have solved one of the problems I’ve been having loading the strop
This is a very helpful video. Especially in the way you showed the proper stopping angle by using two different camera angles. Also, I found the part about how to properly strop the tip to be very helpful.
Please consider making an updated video showing how you currently strop and what materias and compounds you use. Thanks!
Very helpful revue
Thanks for sharing
Greetings from France
yes! sharpening IS entertaining! i enjoy your videos very much and listening to you talk is pleasing! :) thankyou
Thanks the video and the tip on heating up the leather before applying the compound.
The heat treatment is a game changer!! I always had such a hard time applying compound. It was uneven and flaked off but this!! So good!
Wako, you have beautiful technique. Mesmerizing watching your vids
Thank you for the very informative video, as always. I appreciate your taking the time to share what you have learned. Peace,
-Yogi
Very good. You are picking up the concepts and skill very well.
Wow.. Once again excellent review!
thank you i will look at these company,s.you have been most helpful....
man these are really great tips thanks a lot
Thank you sir! Best regards from Australia
Tremendous video! Especially the part about scotch brighting and heating the leather.
Thanks for great video. I have a Fallkniven A1 on order and was looking how to strop a convex. Take care
Thanks very much for this video, I’ve just ordered a strop and can’t wait to use it on my f1 and bravo 1 👍✌️
You are great instructor
Need so much help with my large outdoor knives. Got some “good ones” that turned out to not be so good and need to be sharpened. Thanks for this video.
Excellent vid very accurate...
You're getting really good now :D
Fantastic video! Thank you.
Thank you for this video! Now I know how to sharpen my Fallkniven f1:)
Virtuvoice, I’ve not been subscribed very long, but I am pleased to have found your playlist. Just listening and watching you work entertains me quite pleasantly. One year ago I began sharpening and I was no good!!! Now, I am better, not good, but always improving; improved significantly once I realized my technique was but a poor interpretation of a visualization. In other words, I was just mimicking the action. So, In my minds eye, my intended technique was NOT my ACTUAL technique. And hence I was incredibly inconsistent.
But one day something clicked.
I used my senses of sound & feel, I incorporated a bit of high school geometry, and
Now I can put a edge on my blades. And when using these same senses when stropping,, I instantly became next level. But, I have need of your advice if you could be so kind to consider a response.
I also LOVE convex. I sell handmade knive for my bladesmith friend, and I do lots of knife testing. Over time after many tests, I learn about blade geometry performance. And I agreed with you about this geometry. I’ll speak more of this in other video comments for now my 2 quick questions are:
1. Can you give me tips on getting my convex edge to its sharpest potential. I am struggling to get my (small/micro) bevels to reach full potential sharpness. Bigger size convex I am better and can get ok sharp.
2. Is there different levels of strop (leather) firmness? Perhaps Different thicknesses? What are benefits and drawbacks? 🤷♂️ now with better feel for stropping, I would prefer other levels of firmness but I can’t tell you why I feel this need. 🤷♂️ I feel like my current (one & only) strop is about, mmmm 🤔 medium firmness.
Oh, I also struggle,,, my v edge quickly con-vexes from just stropping and feel less sharp. Any tips or techniques you could write me about? Thank you 🙏
I am excited to find so many of your episodes available . I get to bing watch 😎.
Btw, I only comment on inspiring videos. I shall comment on many more of yours, I am sure!
Ps
If you address my question in this video, I apologize. I have only just started it.
Thank you kind sir! Very pleased to find this channel... 🙂
Complimenti. I tuoi video sono unici👍
great video sir
What an incredible teacher you are - the way you use the english language makes me want to learn Japanese!
Thank you for your vid! You obviously know what you are doing, but when you actually sharpen the knife your technique is great. You don't get that good without careful practice :)
By the way, that knife is beautiful even if the handle is slick when wet. Those leather rings used to make the handle have a historic flare!
I don't know much about knives at all but I love everything about your voice.
Would one say that it makes you wet?
Very nice video! subscribed! Keep up the good work!
Fallkniven NL5 IDUN. Its handle was thin and slick. Its bevel geometry was nice. I sold it away a while ago. Thanks.
@bradwjensen I watched the video now. When I use my regular waterstones and Edge Pro sharpening system, I put the edge onto the stone in both directions. But I put more power in pushing diredtion and less power in pulling direction. It's because I feel in my hand that in pushing direction the edge is beeing sharpened. But in case of the leather strop, if you push your knife onto it, the leather will surely be cut by the edge. So I just do pulling on the strop. Thank you!
@ferdia6 It's my individual habit to put much compound. I feel like I can more aggressively strop off the edge problem like micro rolls or micro chips after contacting bones in deer dressing on the thick compound. Just for regular maintenance less compound will be better. Thank you!
I was like you on this not so long ago. I guess practice makes perfect. Good video Virtuovice
great video again
Great and informative video, as always.
I also had problems applying the green compound to the smooth side of my strop until I used WD-40 to spread the compound out evenly on the leather. Works like a charm. You should give it a try.
Since I strop kitchen knives too, I find that mineral oil works great. I kind of “melts” the compound and makes it easy to evenly spread the compound on the leather.
@sauliusipsc Now I mainly use a strop with very thin leather. So the edge doesn't sink into the leather during stropping and the edge goes very sharp. But its edge is weak. The sharp edge doesn't keep long. So I sometimes get back to this strop with fairly thick leather when the steel is relatively soft. It's because the soft steel needs deeper edge angle. Depending on the steels I use different strop for their proper edge angle. Thank you!
I sometimes use water stones to restore a damaged convex edge or to remove the micro V bevel made by the maker on the convex primary bevel. But necessarily a leather strop gives perfect sharpness to a convex edge. Thanks.
Thank you for your video!
VG10 is on soft side and easy to sharpen. All Fallkniven knives have a micro V bevel and don't take this way unless you remove it at first. They recommend their stones to sharpen their knivs. Please take a look at my video "The real convex Fallkniven F1". Thanks.
@virtuovice: Thank you I will now use the white compound as you said as soon as I acquire some. Thank you for the good informational videos. FYI I also have found the Busse knife to have inferior edge holding and sharpness but to not chipneven with extreme use. in my opinion Busse is only good for machete type blade or extreme VERY hard use smaller blade that will be resharpened but not damaged due to
@bubajeb I know Fallkniven fans love their DC3 or DC4 whetstone. In my experience stropping the knife with a fine compound loaded leather after stone sharpening increases the sharpness drastically. Thanks.
@Dtmdeman I am now using the DLT leather strop paddle. Of which leather is reverse side and very fine. It takes any compounds very well without heat. I don't use the green compound for any purpose now. The pair of black and white is excellent. The white bar and the DLT paddle are selling at DLT Trading or Crystal Falls Trading. Thank you!
The black compound comprises very coarse and hard abrasive particles and grind the metal very aggressively. The green compound comprises medium sized soft particles and its abrasive power is weak just in my opinion. The white compound comprises very fine and hard particles and polishes up the edge razor sharp. So I always skip the green compound now. Thanks.
@CanItAlready Surely the smooth side doesn't strop well. The rough side takes the compound better and strop the knife better. I recently use the DLT strops which has the rough side up. Thank you!
@ayokay123 Yes, I like the Bark River blade geometry very much. Its convex is completely continuous from the starting line to the edge, while the F1 has a fairly wide flat beveled portion on its spine side and a deep angled convex bevel is blended onto it. The Fallkniven WM1 has the same blade geometry as the F1, so I did full height convexing on it and got razor sharpness finally. If I did the same thing on my F1, too, I had to grind off its cool black coating completely. I hate it. Thank you!
nice! thanks for da info!
This must be an old one because I watched one of your videos the other day and said you don't use green compound anymore. You use black and white. That's what I use as well 👍 love your videos.
Nice .thankyou for posting
@virtuovice Thanks, I was actually able to get my opinel razor sharp regardless. Yea, the kitchen knives are like that which is why I was able to convex the edge so easily. And yea, with it cutting stuff all the time and hitting cutting boards and plates it would probably be mind numbing to worry about chips all the time. Thanks, looking forward to your next vids.
Yes. I am from Japan.
Is it a Fallkniven Idun NL5?
How would you put a convex edge on an Ontario Rat 3? Leather strop using sandpaper? Thanks for all the great info you share on your videos.
@nightwalker2830 When the black compound doesn't settle on the leather well, to heat the leather using a hair dryer seems good way. Heat it slowly step by step and you will reach the good temperature soon. Then the black compound will melt and settle onto the leather appropriately. Thank you.
@MrMike2blu Thank you. Yes, from KSF, but now it is sold out. If you ask them they will make it I guess, because it is an decent stuff. It cost me around 40 dollars.
@severzero No, I cannot. I think in order to take the convex edge superiority, I need to sharpen it on the compound loaded leather strop. Thanks!
great video. great series. automatically subscribed to your channel. thanks.
@alantch1 It can be a good idea. I will try a Japanese similar stuff. Thanks.
Yes. I use Bark River black and white compound.
what an excellent tutorial, thank you.
can you please let me know why you add so much compound to strop?
I've often read to put on too LITTLE rather than too MUCH.
Have you tried both methods and settled on this one?
Thanks again
@ayokay123 I agree with you. The edge geometry of the F1 is deeper than Idun. So we cannot make it sharper than Idun despite of any attempt in my opinion. Some guy explained me that it's because the F1 is a survival knife, not a hunting knife. Thank you!
3V is a very high wear resistant steel but at the same time if it had a small angle it would chip relatively easily. So Bark River takes fat geometry to make the edge angle larger on 3V Bravo1 and Bushcrafter, or secondary micro bevel on 3V Gunny and 3V Fox River in my experiences. They will say I am wrong in high probability though. Anyway for the reason their 3V knives are a bit difficult to take the same keenest edge as their A2 knives in my opinion. Thanks.
Cool... Good job
It is Fallkniven NL5 IDUN and you can find it at Heinnie Hayness in the UK. It's a beautiful knife but a difficult knife too because it has a micro V edge from the factory and its leather washer handle is thin and slick. You have to get rid of the micro V edge at first to strop it sharp. In my experience only the Bark River knives have a genuine convex edge as a mass production knife. Please go to KnivesShipFree, DLT Trading, or The-Knife-Connection to check them. Thanks.
@OliRancidTen I have once said I didn't need to strop around the tip this much. My hand movement was not good. I pulled the knife a bit at first. That was no good as regular maintenance when I didn't intended to sharpen the dulled tip.
Thanks.
@122bubbles I use DLT Two Sided Paddle Strop from Crystal Falls Trading. Thanks.
@drkknight614 The Opinel knife is cheap, so I understand it can have a wavy edge. And I was not even able to notice that my Opinels had a secondary edge on one side. Anyways its edge angle is pretty shallow. So I guess you can fix it with middle height grinding with 240 or some grit sandpapers on leather backing. The full height grinding will take you extraordinarily much time. Thank you!
@310shadow310 My regular quality kitchen knife is easy to take micro chips in regular kitchen jobs. Regularly I let them there and strop it. It's my regular way on the kitchen knives to keep them sharp. I don't think the stone itself would make little nicks on your edge. I use #1000 and #3000 stones. Thank you!
Interesting to me to see pre-made strops with the smooth side up because the first one I bought, from a woodworking website, had the rough side up. It came with aluminum oxide in powder form that gets my woodcarving knives dangerously sharp.
I have to agree free hand sharpening is very entertaining.
@Freedom100fan I just checked up the PHK. It's a long knife as Bark River Custom Skinner. PHK has a crescent shape blade and a good ergonomic handle, which must be good for careful and speedy skinning however not very good for getting back muscle in my opinion. I think it is for a big game hunter who needs leather more than meet. As you know I like removing the back strap best in dressing deers. For that purpose I think Bark River Custom Skinner should be better, just in my opinion.
@ncomplex1 The black is coarse, the green is fine, and the white is super fine for a real razor. The green grinds more metal than the white but doesn't sharpen an edge more than the black in my experience. I guess it's because the size of abrasive particles in the green are not so fine as the ones in the white. The DLT leather strop takes the white compound exclusively well without heat. They are selling at Sharpeners < Bark Rivers < DLT Trading or Crystal Falls Trading, not at KSF. Thank you!
Always like your videos. When you have a chance look at my new sharpening compound for the strop.
Hello i was watching your videos and i find them very usefull .....you always use that white or black compound.....to be more precise what is it? ( and maybe you can tell me what other compounds are good to use if i dont find the same as yours on the market......really good video , thumbs up from me ! Thank you !
@TheWoollyMammoth I now don't use the green compound at all, because it does not make the edge any sharper than the black compound. Instead I now use Bark River white compound after the black compound. It makes the edge twice sharper. Thanks.
hello i am in uk,your knife looks very good quality what is it where could i find.i look for quality but never seem to find