Thanks for the info. I’m a ‘fitter’ in training, who is also realizing my days of playing a 130g S or X flex shaft are nearing the end. Research and experimenting is leading me towards weight over flex in fitting. But, your insight into mixing weight and flex is a revelation for me. With the new releases this week I know I’ll be heating up the GC Quad for a while. Now that I have this nugget of information, both me and my customers will be better off.
Thanks for sharing. Flex IMHO is over-rated. Don't get me wrong it's important, I mean we have to decide on a flex but in the end for me it's just a letter not a label. Slow swings some time needs Stiffer shafts and sometimes faster swings need softer. So here would be my nugget for you, if you ever find yourself really close in a fit, but the stamp pattern isn't as tight as you want it, don't change to another shaft but rather try going down in flex or up in flex first, and if that didn't work try the weight and flex trick I shared in the video. But just remember I'm only doing this at the very end of the session, to see if somehow, I can make the final combination even better. Hope this helps.
Welcome back! You been missed. Had a PXG fit which suggested going from current XP95 R to MMT80 which cured the slice completely. Changing the centre weight made another difference. Gained 2mph club head.
Another great vid , thanks ! i'm right there in the struggle of what you were explaining. I'm swinging mid to high 90's ususally but i feel like going heavier shaft i lose speed even more. When i try shafts in the 60's it feels way too heavy for me for some reason. Great video and explanation, keep up the great work !
Thanks for the comment. One of the things I didn’t touch on in The video is balance point and how a heavier counter balance shaft could sometimes help for those feeling the heft of the same weighted shaft as the mass would be located more towards the handle. If that didn’t work I would for sure like a 50-55 gram weighted shaft for you and tinker with the flex.
Good video, very informative. It did touch on my pet peeve though. Everyone focuses on the driver and everyone forgets about the irons. In a round of golf you may use your driver what, maybe 10-15 times? You use irons a heck of a lot more in one round but not too many people focus on that. I understand this video has a chart, but I would love to see a video dedicated to iron shaft weight, swingweight, and flex...
Taper tip vs parallel tip, I understand the difference physically but I would love a video in depth about this topic. When to use each and why you chose one over the other. Also what the heck is frequency matching and why should I care! Great videos by the way!
This is one that I heavily debated in the past and we’ve even tried a couple of times but the challenge is the very minute I turn the cameras on and mic someone up, the wheels come off. With that said I am planning on doing a video where I break down our process to help everyone understand why and how we are different. Thanks again for the suggestion.
Awesome assessment. I have found that I am a bit of a unicorn when it comes to this conversation. I average between 102-110 depending on how my old a$$ 57 year old body responds. Profile for me means more than either weight or stiffness. I currently use a Graphite Design IZ 60x. I have tried numerous shafts Ventus, Tensei, Kalei all in similar weights (varying of course to see) Graphite Design seems to work best for me in that I can time the shaft better. A note to be made is that the same shaft works with various heads. Stiff is good but dispersion is just a tad greater.
All readers, I would appreciate some feedback on this statement. The corect shaft is one that has the right combination of shaft weight, flex (torque), kick point and shaft length. All of these factors are important individually but more importantly need to combine and work together well for your unique swing and tempo.
This is a correct statement, and is the very reason why the golf shaft is one of the most complex to fit for as it never comes down to just one of the items you referenced, it will always be a combination of them. Not to mention there’s a couple of other key variables we’ll also consider such as weight distribution, aka Counter balance designs, as well as material, graphite versus steel. So as you see there’s a lot of layers to peel back and should I decide to go up in flex or down in weight, I can ensure you these other areas we talked about will also be impacted. The key will always come down to how little or how much will be impacted. Really good question.
If it's that complex as many would have you believe then how is it not so complex for a fitter to fit you right the 1st time? My point is and I've heard and can attest that shaft weight is where you should start for proper shaft fit. It's not hard but many ppl get "shafted" by a fitter that doesn't know wtf they are doing. But if you understand your swing and feel you can do it yourself. Because some ppl may swing a heavier shaft faster and more accurately than a lighter shaft and some ppl may swing a lighter shaft more accurately than a heavier one. It all comes down to personal performance. I went up in weight and down in flex with driver and prob solved.
Now a days they will perform very similar, the only caveat to that would be if the graphite shaft had the extra mass distributed to different parts of the shaft, meaning is there more mass in the tip versus the handle to make it tip soft or tip stiff. This is just another way for the MfG to enhance the feel for different speeds and different tempos.
Great video John. What would be a good way to test at home the effects of different shaft weight? Could I add some lead tape to a 50ish gram shaft to test if a heavier weight would be better for me? Where on the shaft would the lead tape be added to? How would I test a lower total weight? Would a lighter removable weight in the head simulate it or would that be a different effect than a lighter shaft weight? I know, get fit. But if we were to try at home....
That is a really good question. Unfortunately there’s no really easy way to test this at home unless you happen to have access to a couple of different shafts. The reason why it is difficult is when a shaft company goes from a 55 gram to a 65 gram shaft it would like be the equivalent of adding two extra layers of material to the overall length of the shaft. The reason they do this is they don’t want to alter the shaft’s original profile it just becomes a little heavier as a result. Not only can this help stiffen up the shaft a bit but it can also make it more stable as it will be just a touch more rigid. Sorry I wish I had better news, but I would say next time shaft weight swing weight would be the next big thing that could help and for that one you can easily play around with that one. Thanks for the support.
Great video. I recently was fitted into Mitsubishi Vanquish PL 45 gram R shaft with Callaway rep. Ball speed and carry were my best ever. But Im getting cold feet about the weight of this shaft because i did not see dispersion. 87mph driver swing speed. Should i be concerned its too light? Not a big slicer. Pulls are biggest dispersion miss. Thx.
I am averaging 111 swing speed with driver and play Ventus blue 6s tipped half an inch. I struggle with a slice only with driver. I am playing around with an older GD Tour XC 70x shaft and my slice is much closer to a fade but my ball flight seems low. Should I go back to a 60 gram shaft in xflex or go to a 70 gram stiff flex? Or maybe the bend profile is better for me? I’m on information overload…
At your speed I believe you are causing the shaft to deflect to much, the TR blue version at 60x would be the one I would like to move you in right out the gate, if it was still deflecting then I would go original Ventus black 6x. Second.
To me a proper fitting would take hours not the usual one hour fitting window: Grip size, Profile, Weight, Tipping, Torque, Lie, Flex, Head, Swing Weight, Kick Point, Shaft Length…not to mention Standard Deviation, Bell Shaped Curve, How I’m hitting that day….GOOD LUCK. And then the manufacturer doesn’t meet the total specs anyway, and the new clubs don’t hit like the fitting clubs. Please comment!
So you keyed in on one important aspect of the fitting process and that is the final build, a ClubFitter shouldn’t just be an order taker. Any ClubFitter worth their weight in gold will take ownership of the build and just because a grip and head is installed on a shaft doesn’t necessarily mean that it it was built properly. 😀 with all that said I believe the smaller independent clubfitters can offer a better product start to finish. Don’t get me wrong there are some nationally ranked fitting chains who can do a good job, but generally it’s not the company, their process, or philosophy that will stand them apart it’s the people inside the store and with anything just because there may be 100 or more plus locations scattered throughout the country it doesn’t mean all will be good, this is why I believe ClubFitting gets a bad rap. So you might now ask how do you find a ClubFitter. The first place would be the OEMs websites, every one will have a locate a club fitter section. Create a short list of fitters who isn’t a big chain, and then compare that list to some of the other OEMs, see if those names start to pop up on any other sites. The more the better. I hope this helped.
Iron question. I carry 7 iron 145 and have 60 gram shafts. Ball strikes are mostly centered but consistently thin. Do I need lessons or a better fitting? Love your content. One of my favorite youtubers.
Next weeks video just may be for you my friend as it could be as simple as the length of your golf club. But the other thing it could be and a lot of my customers will overlook this but ball position also can affect strike location a lot as well. So if you tell me that you favor more of a left of cent ball forward ball position with your iron I would try cheating it back a touch as well. But if it’s already back don’t move it back further. Thanks for asking such a great question.
I recently got fitted for new T200 irons with project x lz5.5 shafts my previous set was ap1 with dg s300. I’m really having trouble with the new irons trajectory as it is about 20’ higher than I’m used to seeing, and I play in wind a lot so I’m used to a more boring trajectory. Also thinning a fair amount. BTW 57 y/o 6.6 handicap with 82 mph 8 iron swing speed never had a problem stopping irons on a green with s300. Would love to hear your thoughts. Thanks in advance
Shafts could be a small factor but the launch conditions with the t200 and CG location is likely more the culprit though. So I would go back and share feedback about height and see if you can revisit the head with the newer DG Mid 115 shaft.
Sometimes it feels like we try to get exactly the right club as though that is the problem, but really they might just need to learn how to golf…. I can see for people who are below average in strength would get more distance with a lighter club, and a stronger but slower person might benefit from a heavier club…
Definitely all good points and possibilities, the best way I like to look at it is sometimes having the right tool or instrument for the job can make executing the technique much easier. Thanks for sharing
Swing driver 108 mph and have 65g regular shaft and swing 7 iron at 92 mph and playing 88g regular shaft. Have a decent looking swing and have worked hard at it but have really struggled with consistency. Time to get fitted I think.
The number one question I ask anyone is how does your stamp pattern look. If it’s not tight then I will say without question the shaft isn’t the correct dance partner. And your speed alone would be one where I would immediately bump you to a stiff if not XS shaft.
@SwingFit Thanks for the reply. Yes, I definitely hit the ball all over the face, especially with driver. Irons are at least playable, though inconsistent with finding dead centre. I think I could definitely benefit from a fitting for both and will look into it. Thanks 👍
Geez ya just for reference I swing my 7 iron at around 90-93 and I have a quick tempo. Got fitted into project x 6.0 which is 120grams I believe definately finding less of the toe and more middle of the face now
Perhaps this is the case for some, but one could make the argument that if your hitting it in the water or out of bounds, you’re not going to have much fun. 😀Thanks for sharing.
What if and I assume this also is what you're talking about. I'm a pretty big guy well interms of weight and fairly strong BUT I have smaller hands and wrist. So I assume less weight could compliment my smaller wrist but higher flex would balance my stronger speed? I found extra stiff feels way more staple through impact but the weight might be too heavy for my smaller wrist. Are they're ppl that have extra stiff with a 60 or 55 gram shaft?
Good question. In fact there are shafts out there that can go as light as 40-45 grams but still be stiff and stable, so yes it’s very possible to go lighter.
The best way to get improvement is getting consistent golf lesson and get more exercise done 👍🏻 then getting a proper full golf fitting to getting actual data on which type to choose from.
Well that really depends on the shaft, if I go lighter weight sometimes I will go stiffer if I go heavier sometimes I will go softer. In the end I will choose weight first then flex second and the rule of thumb is play the stiffest shaft you can swing without it feeling like you have to over swing or step on it just to get to bend.
Just wanted to be clear on the question. If you were referring to how the shafts get heavier as they get shorter and whether or not if some people may struggle with either them being too heavy or to light on either side of the iron set, then yes not everyone will be a good fit for AMT, as the total weight of the club can sometimes have a negative impact on someone’s ability to square the club up and time it out. If I misunderstood, just please rephrase and I can try again😀
To be honest I’m not sure I have ever come across that situation, if I’m going lighter heads it’s likely because I need to help square up the face and going heavier shafts I believe would only counteract what I was trying to achieve. But I would say it could be a solution say if someone swings really hard no turn and all arms, but that’s really the only scenario I can think of right now.
I got a question, So I play with a 65 gram shaft, but my driver length is 44 inches do I need to get a heavier shaft or stay playing with a 65 gram shaft?
When we go shorter we will make the shaft play stiffer, so I always say play as heavy and as stiff as possible and you will know when it crosses the line, as you will have to step on it to get it to feel or bend the way you need. With that said if you did go down in weight you may find that you wouldn’t have to jump flex as a result of it being shorter, but it could be worth a test if you had access to some other shafts. If you decided to go up in weight I definitely would consider dropping flex though as it would get to stiff.
I probably wouldn’t go 70 gram in that shaft. If you did you would likely loose the ability to get the shaft to load. Let me explain, the headweight in the driver just may not be heavy enough especially when you cut in down to help it load and unload. Unless if you tell me you tug on the handle and have really fast transition, then you may be ok with trying it. But with that said here is what I would suggest. Verify how tight your stamp pattern is out of series of 5 shots. If it’s tight and in the right spot don’t change.
I was fitted by PXG for 95 gram shafts but I found that I could easily lose the club feel. I am 63 but I am 6'5" and 270, does physical strength come into play for the right shaft weight? I was fitted for 105 grams shafts recently but may try some 120 or 125 gram shafts to see if I stay on plane better.
At your height I’m going to assume that they went a little longer, and here we need to remember that when we add length to the clubs we need to be sure the shafts don’t get to soft and in this situation that what I’m going to suspect that happened. If you add 1/2” a stiff now plays like a R+ loose an 1” and now that Stiff flex is playing a full flex lighter. Let me know if your clubs are standard length or longer.
@@vicgeier3482 wow 2inches is a lot, not sure I would have gone that much, but none the less you lost two flexes as a result so those shafts are playing more like a Sr. Flex. ☹️
At 1.29 on your video, you said; "I can INSURE YOU" rather than "I can ASSURE YOU". Just saying! Other than that the info on your video is really good.
Won’t dispute that sound advice but I will say this, I have really good golfers who can’t find the middle of the face and the shaft they’re using is the culprit. Thanks for sharing.
@@casinogeno1 have you ever tried cutting a 2x4 with a handsaw? It can be done but is it the most effective way to do so, the golf shaft without question is important and will vary from shaft to shaft, if they all performed the same then my job would be so much easier.
Excellent video. Thank you for sharing this!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for the info. I’m a ‘fitter’ in training, who is also realizing my days of playing a 130g S or X flex shaft are nearing the end.
Research and experimenting is leading me towards weight over flex in fitting. But, your insight into mixing weight and flex is a revelation for me.
With the new releases this week I know I’ll be heating up the GC Quad for a while. Now that I have this nugget of information, both me and my customers will be better off.
Thanks for sharing. Flex IMHO is over-rated. Don't get me wrong it's important, I mean we have to decide on a flex but in the end for me it's just a letter not a label. Slow swings some time needs Stiffer shafts and sometimes faster swings need softer. So here would be my nugget for you, if you ever find yourself really close in a fit, but the stamp pattern isn't as tight as you want it, don't change to another shaft but rather try going down in flex or up in flex first, and if that didn't work try the weight and flex trick I shared in the video. But just remember I'm only doing this at the very end of the session, to see if somehow, I can make the final combination even better. Hope this helps.
Welcome back! You been missed. Had a PXG fit which suggested going from current XP95 R to MMT80 which cured the slice completely. Changing the centre weight made another difference. Gained 2mph club head.
Thanks for sharing, I’m glad it worked out for you. And thank you for the kind words.
This is a great help!!!!!!
I’m glad you found it helpful.
Would love to see a follow up to this video with how, the bend profile; whether tip, mid or counter balanced and the effect on impact location
That video is for sure in the works as we have received multiple requests. Thanks for the suggestion and the support.
Another great vid , thanks ! i'm right there in the struggle of what you were explaining. I'm swinging mid to high 90's ususally but i feel like going heavier shaft i lose speed even more. When i try shafts in the 60's it feels way too heavy for me for some reason. Great video and explanation, keep up the great work !
Thanks for the comment. One of the things I didn’t touch on in The video is balance point and how a heavier counter balance shaft could sometimes help for those feeling the heft of the same weighted shaft as the mass would be located more towards the handle. If that didn’t work I would for sure like a 50-55 gram weighted shaft for you and tinker with the flex.
@@SwingFit Thanks for the reply! I will definitely check into that for this season. Much appreciated =)
Good video, very informative. It did touch on my pet peeve though. Everyone focuses on the driver and everyone forgets about the irons. In a round of golf you may use your driver what, maybe 10-15 times? You use irons a heck of a lot more in one round but not too many people focus on that. I understand this video has a chart, but I would love to see a video dedicated to iron shaft weight, swingweight, and flex...
I have a good iron video teed up, so don’t worry it’s coming. 😀
Taper tip vs parallel tip, I understand the difference physically but I would love a video in depth about this topic. When to use each and why you chose one over the other. Also what the heck is frequency matching and why should I care!
Great videos by the way!
All really good questions, and these without question would make a great video.
Great video - IMO the number one issue is the shaft - the 'engine' of the swing.
The shaft without question is extremely important
Enjoy the video, would really like to see some actual iron fitting sessions. Thanks
This is one that I heavily debated in the past and we’ve even tried a couple of times but the challenge is the very minute I turn the cameras on and mic someone up, the wheels come off. With that said I am planning on doing a video where I break down our process to help everyone understand why and how we are different. Thanks again for the suggestion.
Which chart do you use for hybrids and fairway woods to determine flex and weight for same?
Awesome assessment. I have found that I am a bit of a unicorn when it comes to this conversation. I average between 102-110 depending on how my old a$$ 57 year old body responds. Profile for me means more than either weight or stiffness. I currently use a Graphite Design IZ 60x. I have tried numerous shafts Ventus, Tensei, Kalei all in similar weights (varying of course to see) Graphite Design seems to work best for me in that I can time the shaft better. A note to be made is that the same shaft works with various heads. Stiff is good but dispersion is just a tad greater.
Thanks for sharing, you will likely be a tour ad guy for life. Even if you move to a different profile it will still probably be a tour ad shaft.
All readers, I would appreciate some feedback on this statement. The corect shaft is one that has the right combination of shaft weight, flex (torque), kick point and shaft length. All of these factors are important individually but more importantly need to combine and work together well for your unique swing and tempo.
This is a correct statement, and is the very reason why the golf shaft is one of the most complex to fit for as it never comes down to just one of the items you referenced, it will always be a combination of them. Not to mention there’s a couple of other key variables we’ll also consider such as weight distribution, aka Counter balance designs, as well as material, graphite versus steel. So as you see there’s a lot of layers to peel back and should I decide to go up in flex or down in weight, I can ensure you these other areas we talked about will also be impacted. The key will always come down to how little or how much will be impacted. Really good question.
If it's that complex as many would have you believe then how is it not so complex for a fitter to fit you right the 1st time? My point is and I've heard and can attest that shaft weight is where you should start for proper shaft fit. It's not hard but many ppl get "shafted" by a fitter that doesn't know wtf they are doing. But if you understand your swing and feel you can do it yourself.
Because some ppl may swing a heavier shaft faster and more accurately than a lighter shaft and some ppl may swing a lighter shaft more accurately than a heavier one. It all comes down to personal performance.
I went up in weight and down in flex with driver and prob solved.
Hi very useful videos! Could you please do videos for ladies and driver club head speed of say 70?
Sure this is a great suggestion.
Thanks for the info.
How do graphite shafts line up on your 7i chart compared to steel?
Now a days they will perform very similar, the only caveat to that would be if the graphite shaft had the extra mass distributed to different parts of the shaft, meaning is there more mass in the tip versus the handle to make it tip soft or tip stiff. This is just another way for the MfG to enhance the feel for different speeds and different tempos.
Great video John. What would be a good way to test at home the effects of different shaft weight? Could I add some lead tape to a 50ish gram shaft to test if a heavier weight would be better for me? Where on the shaft would the lead tape be added to? How would I test a lower total weight? Would a lighter removable weight in the head simulate it or would that be a different effect than a lighter shaft weight? I know, get fit. But if we were to try at home....
That is a really good question. Unfortunately there’s no really easy way to test this at home unless you happen to have access to a couple of different shafts. The reason why it is difficult is when a shaft company goes from a 55 gram to a 65 gram shaft it would like be the equivalent of adding two extra layers of material to the overall length of the shaft. The reason they do this is they don’t want to alter the shaft’s original profile it just becomes a little heavier as a result. Not only can this help stiffen up the shaft a bit but it can also make it more stable as it will be just a touch more rigid. Sorry I wish I had better news, but I would say next time shaft weight swing weight would be the next big thing that could help and for that one you can easily play around with that one. Thanks for the support.
Great video. I recently was fitted into Mitsubishi Vanquish PL 45 gram R shaft with Callaway rep. Ball speed and carry were my best ever. But Im getting cold feet about the weight of this shaft because i did not see dispersion. 87mph driver swing speed. Should i be concerned its too light? Not a big slicer. Pulls are biggest dispersion miss. Thx.
Light weight shafts are definitely more stable than they ever use to be so I wouldn’t be as concerned.
I am averaging 111 swing speed with driver and play Ventus blue 6s tipped half an inch. I struggle with a slice only with driver. I am playing around with an older GD Tour XC 70x shaft and my slice is much closer to a fade but my ball flight seems low. Should I go back to a 60 gram shaft in xflex or go to a 70 gram stiff flex? Or maybe the bend profile is better for me? I’m on information overload…
At your speed I believe you are causing the shaft to deflect to much, the TR blue version at 60x would be the one I would like to move you in right out the gate, if it was still deflecting then I would go original Ventus black 6x. Second.
To me a proper fitting would take hours not the usual one hour fitting window: Grip size, Profile, Weight, Tipping, Torque, Lie, Flex, Head, Swing Weight, Kick Point, Shaft Length…not to mention Standard Deviation, Bell Shaped Curve, How I’m hitting that day….GOOD LUCK. And then the manufacturer doesn’t meet the total specs anyway, and the new clubs don’t hit like the fitting clubs. Please comment!
So you keyed in on one important aspect of the fitting process and that is the final build, a ClubFitter shouldn’t just be an order taker. Any ClubFitter worth their weight in gold will take ownership of the build and just because a grip and head is installed on a shaft doesn’t necessarily mean that it it was built properly. 😀 with all that said I believe the smaller independent clubfitters can offer a better product start to finish. Don’t get me wrong there are some nationally ranked fitting chains who can do a good job, but generally it’s not the company, their process, or philosophy that will stand them apart it’s the people inside the store and with anything just because there may be 100 or more plus locations scattered throughout the country it doesn’t mean all will be good, this is why I believe ClubFitting gets a bad rap. So you might now ask how do you find a ClubFitter. The first place would be the OEMs websites, every one will have a locate a club fitter section. Create a short list of fitters who isn’t a big chain, and then compare that list to some of the other OEMs, see if those names start to pop up on any other sites. The more the better. I hope this helped.
Very informative, as always. Where do we send our questions?
There’s a link in the description that you can click on. And thanks for the kind words.
Iron question. I carry 7 iron 145 and have 60 gram shafts. Ball strikes are mostly centered but consistently thin. Do I need lessons or a better fitting?
Love your content. One of my favorite youtubers.
Next weeks video just may be for you my friend as it could be as simple as the length of your golf club. But the other thing it could be and a lot of my customers will overlook this but ball position also can affect strike location a lot as well. So if you tell me that you favor more of a left of cent ball forward ball position with your iron I would try cheating it back a touch as well. But if it’s already back don’t move it back further. Thanks for asking such a great question.
I recently got fitted for new T200 irons with project x lz5.5 shafts my previous set was ap1 with dg s300. I’m really having trouble with the new irons trajectory as it is about 20’ higher than I’m used to seeing, and I play in wind a lot so I’m used to a more boring trajectory. Also thinning a fair amount. BTW 57 y/o 6.6 handicap with 82 mph 8 iron swing speed never had a problem stopping irons on a green with s300. Would love to hear your thoughts. Thanks in advance
Shafts could be a small factor but the launch conditions with the t200 and CG location is likely more the culprit though. So I would go back and share feedback about height and see if you can revisit the head with the newer DG Mid 115 shaft.
@@SwingFit Thanks for the quick reply any possible recommendations for a graphite shaft that could be similar?
Don't forget shaft profile to go along with this
You are very correct and that will for sure be a video topic all on its own.
Need you to fit me! Then I google search and gotta fly to WV😂
If travel ever brings you to the DC region then please be sure to look us up.
Sometimes it feels like we try to get exactly the right club as though that is the problem, but really they might just need to learn how to golf…. I can see for people who are below average in strength would get more distance with a lighter club, and a stronger but slower person might benefit from a heavier club…
Definitely all good points and possibilities, the best way I like to look at it is sometimes having the right tool or instrument for the job can make executing the technique much easier. Thanks for sharing
Swing driver 108 mph and have 65g regular shaft and swing 7 iron at 92 mph and playing 88g regular shaft. Have a decent looking swing and have worked hard at it but have really struggled with consistency. Time to get fitted I think.
The number one question I ask anyone is how does your stamp pattern look. If it’s not tight then I will say without question the shaft isn’t the correct dance partner. And your speed alone would be one where I would immediately bump you to a stiff if not XS shaft.
@SwingFit Thanks for the reply. Yes, I definitely hit the ball all over the face, especially with driver. Irons are at least playable, though inconsistent with finding dead centre. I think I could definitely benefit from a fitting for both and will look into it. Thanks 👍
Geez ya just for reference I swing my 7 iron at around 90-93 and I have a quick tempo. Got fitted into project x 6.0 which is 120grams I believe definately finding less of the toe and more middle of the face now
Thanks for sharing that’s a great shaft
@@Fitter4life thanks mate. I definitely think it will help my consistency of strike. I hope so anyway 😂
If you are a bad driver it doesn't matter what car you drive.😀save your $$$ just go out and have fun..
Perhaps this is the case for some, but one could make the argument that if your hitting it in the water or out of bounds, you’re not going to have much fun. 😀Thanks for sharing.
What if and I assume this also is what you're talking about. I'm a pretty big guy well interms of weight and fairly strong BUT I have smaller hands and wrist. So I assume less weight could compliment my smaller wrist but higher flex would balance my stronger speed? I found extra stiff feels way more staple through impact but the weight might be too heavy for my smaller wrist. Are they're ppl that have extra stiff with a 60 or 55 gram shaft?
Good question. In fact there are shafts out there that can go as light as 40-45 grams but still be stiff and stable, so yes it’s very possible to go lighter.
The best way to get improvement is getting consistent golf lesson and get more exercise done 👍🏻 then getting a proper full golf fitting to getting actual data on which type to choose from.
I Won’t argue any of those points, as everything you said is very important.
Since your chart goes by weight if someone fits to a 60 gram driver shaft how do you determine what flex you give them?
Well that really depends on the shaft, if I go lighter weight sometimes I will go stiffer if I go heavier sometimes I will go softer. In the end I will choose weight first then flex second and the rule of thumb is play the stiffest shaft you can swing without it feeling like you have to over swing or step on it just to get to bend.
@@SwingFit Thanks
I play the Tensei blue stiff with the AMT on my irons. Do you find that some of the irons don’t work for a player?
Just wanted to be clear on the question. If you were referring to how the shafts get heavier as they get shorter and whether or not if some people may struggle with either them being too heavy or to light on either side of the iron set, then yes not everyone will be a good fit for AMT, as the total weight of the club can sometimes have a negative impact on someone’s ability to square the club up and time it out. If I misunderstood, just please rephrase and I can try again😀
You got it right - thank-you
What about a heavier shaft and a lighter club head ? What’s that result
To be honest I’m not sure I have ever come across that situation, if I’m going lighter heads it’s likely because I need to help square up the face and going heavier shafts I believe would only counteract what I was trying to achieve. But I would say it could be a solution say if someone swings really hard no turn and all arms, but that’s really the only scenario I can think of right now.
@@SwingFit thank you
Anytime that’s what we are here for.
I got a question, So I play with a 65 gram shaft, but my driver length is 44 inches do I need to get a heavier shaft or stay playing with a 65 gram shaft?
When we go shorter we will make the shaft play stiffer, so I always say play as heavy and as stiff as possible and you will know when it crosses the line, as you will have to step on it to get it to feel or bend the way you need. With that said if you did go down in weight you may find that you wouldn’t have to jump flex as a result of it being shorter, but it could be worth a test if you had access to some other shafts. If you decided to go up in weight I definitely would consider dropping flex though as it would get to stiff.
@@SwingFit I play a ventus black X flex.
I probably wouldn’t go 70 gram in that shaft. If you did you would likely loose the ability to get the shaft to load. Let me explain, the headweight in the driver just may not be heavy enough especially when you cut in down to help it load and unload. Unless if you tell me you tug on the handle and have really fast transition, then you may be ok with trying it. But with that said here is what I would suggest. Verify how tight your stamp pattern is out of series of 5 shots. If it’s tight and in the right spot don’t change.
I was fitted by PXG for 95 gram shafts but I found that I could easily lose the club feel. I am 63 but I am 6'5" and 270, does physical strength come into play for the right shaft weight? I was fitted for 105 grams shafts recently but may try some 120 or 125 gram shafts to see if I stay on plane better.
At your height I’m going to assume that they went a little longer, and here we need to remember that when we add length to the clubs we need to be sure the shafts don’t get to soft and in this situation that what I’m going to suspect that happened. If you add 1/2” a stiff now plays like a R+ loose an 1” and now that Stiff flex is playing a full flex lighter. Let me know if your clubs are standard length or longer.
+2 inches in length, S flex Modus 3 105.
@@vicgeier3482 wow 2inches is a lot, not sure I would have gone that much, but none the less you lost two flexes as a result so those shafts are playing more like a Sr. Flex. ☹️
+2 made a big difference in posture and ball contact.
They are stiffer than my previous +1 1/2 Elevate 95 R flex shafts, curious to see the frequency difference
At 1.29 on your video, you said; "I can INSURE YOU" rather than "I can ASSURE YOU". Just saying! Other than that the info on your video is really good.
Thanks for the support, and feedback. on another note my video editor has a really hard job I can assure you of that. 😀
Good lord have you never mispronounced a single word, especially on camera? Let me guess , you’re a Democrat voting public school teacher.
@@SwingFit William must have been a grade school English teacher in his younger days, haha.
Alternatively, if you are hitting it all over the place consider practicing and taking a lesson.
Won’t dispute that sound advice but I will say this, I have really good golfers who can’t find the middle of the face and the shaft they’re using is the culprit. Thanks for sharing.
@@SwingFit really good golfers and not hitting the middle sounds counterintuitive, but ok😂
@@casinogeno1 have you ever tried cutting a 2x4 with a handsaw? It can be done but is it the most effective way to do so, the golf shaft without question is important and will vary from shaft to shaft, if they all performed the same then my job would be so much easier.
Never trust anyone who buttons his top button without a tie…….
You probably shouldn’t unless you’ve tried everything else then why not.