How replace Jeep rear control arms
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- čas přidán 13. 03. 2015
- Part 5 on How we fixed the notorious Jeep DEATH! wobble, we have had a lot of things that needed to be done to fix the wobble. This video we show how to remove and replace the rear control arms. Coming soon! We will show more videos on the removal and installation of all these parts. so please stay tuned. Please Rate, Comment, and last but not least, Subscribe!!! :)
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You do not need to remove the springs, shocks or swaybar links at all. I have done this job twice and never had any reason to remove them. way more work then needed. And more time to. Also no need to have the ball joint pressed out and in. You can buy it complete with a new bracket. And it's cheap.
How long did it take you. And one man. I'm doing this job by myself in about 12 hours from now. I'm thinking 4 hours??
Very well done video. Just bought a 99 WJ (my first jeep) and freaked out when the inspection place said I needed to replace my rear control arm bushings. This vid makes it seem like it ain't so bad to just replace the upper and lower control arms totally. Bonus points for the Grizzly Bear playing in the background.
I just did this job yesterday by myself. 3-1/2 hours cause I also replaced the lower control arms too.
I used a pickel fork with a 1" X 4' pipe. The pipe worked best if it goes all the way to the fork, that way your pounding on both forks at the same time and not losing the pounding force by just pounding on the end of the fork. Once I got the fork all the way on the balljoint, I started to use the pipe as a leverage bar, yes i used the weight of the differental, was hanging to help pull down on the balljoint but was still on the jack..
I was bouncing a couple of times with all my weight and it broke loose. The control arm popped up as I had hoped it would. Now was so easy to take out the 15mm bolts on the arm, pull the arm out and super easy to get a impact wrench on the 3 balljoint bolts to the differental.
Even using a impact on those 3 bolts were very slow coming off. Can't imagine using a ratcheting box wrench on that. No need to remove shocks, springs, ect..
Great video. I liked that you didn’t show any unnecessary steps like taking the tires off and other things like that and you just got straight to work.
I had death wobble until I change my track bar, rotors, tie rods ends and sterling stabilizer. I'm not a mechanic but I learn alot just watching CZcams and listening carefully
Great video. Excellent camera work and voice over. Makes it easy to understand the challenges of this job before undertaking it. Thank you!
Thanks for great step by step ideas. I can't be happier with the products and the function and feel of the ride now. Your the man for showing the way!
great vid, bought a 2003 wj grand cherokee 2.7 diesel here in the uk july 2015. scary to try maintenance myself but vids like these have helped me so far rebuild rear calipers after one siezed, full engine, autobox, transfer box, f/r axle, service. replaced both rear hub bearings, 4 new bilstien b4 shock absorbers, dreaded blend door repair, bonnet, rear hatch and glass struts. all info is there on youtube to help. thanks for the great vid, no doubt in time i will be doing this job myself. :-)
Hey Scotty I got it done with a little help from a couple of other Jar head jeep owners in fact we did 2 others, by the third one we had it down pack thanks to your video . We thank you again for assisting us with this task . You get a loud vicious Ooh-Rah!!!!! Semper Fi
Thanks for the video you saved me about$140 bucks the six bushings are fine the ball joint is bad now that I seen your video and know the ball joint is separate I can just replace the one part needed thank you so much for the video and saving me money and time
thanks for the video! Getting ready to do this! This helps a lot!
It appears to be 2.5" lift springs on this WJ which is part of the reason that the rubber bushings in the upper control arm wear out faster than normal.
Because there is no upper control arm spacer installed. The spacer needed is 2" and brings the geometry of the arm back to stock.
Also makes installation easier.
Also not necessary to remove shocks and springs to do this operation, especially not with a 2.5" lift as this WJ has, as longer shocks probably are installed. Sway bar links should also be extended.
A new upper arm ball joint usually comes installed with the plate.
I really would reccommend to use a torque wrench and not a air impact wrench to tighten the nuts and bolts to spec.
Svein Hanssen hi do know what company sales this rear ball joint spacers or bracket. I’m having premature failure after installing the new rear ball joint and bushing with a 3” coil spring on my Jeep Liberty. Thank for any feedback.
great video, you are a man!!! got my 2004 wg last year, great truck!!! just ordered new rear upper control arm, thanks for your help! cheers from Scotland!!!!!!!
Thanks guys! Now I know what I'm getting into. I have just over 200k on my WJ.
thanks a lot man nobody has a video on how to do these and ive got to do my upper control arm soon on my wj... now i feel better seeing someone else do it :)
Thanks for your video. Getting ready to do the same thing to my daughter's car. I'm also going to order the resr ball joint along with the control arm. Keep up the good work.
awesome! thank you! doing my whole suspension this spring, and there are not a lot of WJ vids out there!
subscribed, great job bro! i will be giving this a try on my jeep liberty now.
I did mine when I installed the 4" lift. pain in the butt! The ball joint stud didn't come out so I had to walk the bolts out that connect to the pumpkin with a cheater pipe and such a pain! but after I did that it was absolutely solid! zero noise.
Thanks. Great information. Like your creativity.
thank you! great vid now i know what im up against just ordered the hole kit for 150$ and now i no i can do it!
Good Job! Need to do this on mt 2004 Liberty. Looks a bit daunting. But the best part would be eliminating the "DEATH WOBBLE!"
I have been looking for a video that shows how to replace the upper control arm. Im gonna try to replace it myself this summer feeling nervous lol. I just hope no bolts break. My jeeps exactly like your jeep.....Good Video
Thank you for video thats exactly what my jeep needs wow its crazy cuz i was looking for a video and found a few but did not really show how to and toda was just scrolling down. I passed the video but saw the jeep upper control arm and was like bam this is my mission this wkn thank you
Thanks guy. I'm fixing to try the same job an this video was very helpful
Thanks for that ! My rear axle was kinda wobbeling from left to right now I know where it comes from, thanks from France !
THanx for the vid. DId the upper a few year back but its popping again. Inspired by your vid and the desire to get rid of the clunks, im Going for the uppers and lowers on my 2001 with 270K miles with I6 4.0L that just keeps working. Most guys hit the three 21mm bolts that hold the ball joint to axle housing and breaking the upper off the ball joint is near impossible. Good patients and work. Wind noise was nothing. THank for the detail.
I have to do mine soon, you made this look easy! Thanks!!
Thanks for the help. Much appreciated!!!
right on man thank you for the heads up on this repair. very good write up. ciao...
Thank you for the excellent video. You are a true professor at CZcams University.
Thank you your awesome too!! 😂
Thank you your awesome too!! 😂
Thank you your awesome too!! 😂
Thank you your awesome too!! 😂
Great video. You da man.
U-joints can cause "death-wobble" as well, vibration starts subtle and gradually increases to death-wobble.
Hey Scotty...did you put upper isolators on those rusty's springs?
Excellent great video! thanks for help
Good video What size are the 3 bolts that connect the ball joint to the rear axle ?? I am missing 1 . does 1 missing affect anything??
Outstanding job. Thank you very much.
Thanks for the video. Now I know how big of job I have. My sister wants this done but with the stuff I have going on i don't think ill have the time for a job this big. I did the fronts but this job is twice the size
Awesome job fella gonna give it ago thanks so much
Lots of good information thanks ...
Great Video!! Thank you!
Hello! Which Loctite Blue did you use: 242 or 243? Thank you!
Great tutorial!
I just did the rear upper conrtol arm, this is way to much extra work. Back the car up on to ramps, remove the ball joint , you can get in there with a wrench... and you can get the complete unit out, then put the new ball joint on the new control arm... took me about 1.5 hrs.
Arthur Irwin do you have your own video for it ? I would like to see it, if could save work ..
He did way to much.
How did you separate the ball joint from the control arm??
Great step by step procedure thanks
Hey thank you for the great video , I always wanted to do this but didn't want to until I saw a video great thanks .
Awesome!! just remember this job is a little complicated and hard to get back together
Helpful video !!
question, i replaced the same upper control arm n ball joint. the bolt on ball joint holding control arm keep coming lose. Any ideas why. I went with factory torque. thanks Robert
very helpful will do mine after the hunting also will add air lifts 1000 for pulling a 28 foot Rv. My Grand Cherokee ltd 2004 is really pulling to the right when I leave go of the accelerator.
Thanks for your video, I have the same problem with my wj 1999, I can make my garage do that work, but that cost many euro, s, in the vs dollars, so I fixt it myself. Greatings from the Netherlands again good video 👍👍👍
in michigan, we use antiseize instead of lock tite lol
In Michigan, RUST NEVER SLEEPS 🙏 👨🔧 P.B.BLASTER IS YOUR ONLY HOPE 🤞
Did this on my caliper bolts once, and they came completely out while I was driving, a coupla' weeks later. ~~An Indiana Guy
Great video
Excellent job
perfect and helpful thanks
Nice to know Shawn. When I doubt, I go to the local pickapart and do it first there. Then I know what size sockets and so on before I start on my own car. It's the cabinet makers way of auto repair.
Awesome job, thank you
very helpful thank you ,
WHAT ISSUES WERE U HAVING BEFORE U CHANGED PARTS?I AM HAVING TAIL WAG ISSUES.I THINK THIS IS MY PROUBLEM. THANKS FOR THE VIDEO.SKUD1
Don't need to lift it that far. Also, just put a jack under the differential and lift or lower the axle to get the ball joint lined up. May need to put a bottle jack under the front of the diff to rotate it back or forth to line up stuff. It's 21 mm bolts on the ball joint and Lower arms too.
thanks for the video but why didnt you install the control arm before the springs? i did mine and everything went easy>
Gteat video now i know what to do. Thanks
Thanks very much brother
The only part you did not show was removing the bolts on the upper arm... I'm concerned because my left side seems to be rusted out so I don't know if the nut is welded onto the body or how it connects...
I would like to know before I start this job...
I hoping I don't have to fabricate where the bolt connects to
Advice?
Thanks
Is the front end of the WJ on jack stands?
Yeah I just bought a 2000 Jeep grand Cherokee Laredo super nice vehicle hardly any rust very clean but during the test drive you can hear lots of noise in the rear end annoying knocking or rattling it would come and go especially hitting Bumps crawl underneath and yeah the bushings and ball joint are crap on the upper control arm seems to be a real issue with these jeeps that upper control arm I watched a few videos everyone has their different ways of doing it I do know one thing I am a diesel mechanic the Loctite on the rear DEF you just use a torch on the bolts Heat them up and it loosens the Loctite the bolts usually come right out
Thank you, I search probably 10 videos before I found you.....
good tips. my upper would not pop off the bearing. sledge, pickle fork. sucked. I cut off the arms with Sawzall to get me room to socket the 3 bolts off. using a crescent wrench is painful and those bolts do not go in or come out smoothly. I didn't have it all disconnected so played around a lot trying other get that bolt into upper. Basically got pissed and body checked the rear end. heard a light tink. looked under and the bolt popped right thru the whole. WTH! Got a nut on that real Quick.
Do have a question. My springs are pretty shot. top of the spring mount is a rubber bushing and bumper. My bumper is a rusted skeleton and really no rubber left up there. is the bushing you used come with that bushing or is that a separate item that gets screwed in? I am not lifting it but will look for stock type springs that are more heavy duty than the stock ones.
How and what did you body check??
Did you let the weight of the axel by lowering it help put pressure on the ball joint to break it loose?
Any special tools used?
What were you indications that they were bad while driving??
Thank You
if I'm just doing the lower control arms would I need to take out the springs and all that still??
Geo Fox-no
I have a 2001 wj and i hear a clunking noise when i make right turns. i replaced my lower rear control arms but i need to replace my upper rear. ball joint and all. i hope this stops the noises in the back when i hit a bump. i have 172,000 miles on it.
Great video by the way it wasn't for this video I probably wouldn't have done it
Sometimes other people can give you the courage that you need to do the job yourself🤔
Yes your right.
great
You can slide upper control arm out without taking anything else off I just did mine,if that is only part you need
Paul Szeles , that is what I am going to do. I am waiting for the part so loosening the bolts and it just slips around up there. will slide right out when bolts pulled. once the bolts are pulled, there is enough slack to get to the ball joint.
Just did the job today putting it back together and and putting on the new one only took about two and a half hours taking it off the car the old one took about 6 hoursv
If you where going to replace the ball joint is it possible to remove those three bolts or nuts and pull that center section as a unit instead of trying to pop It off the ball joint? I’m going to have to tackle this on my wife’s WJ
Don't know if you already did it but yes just loosing each a little bit at a time, that's actually the easiest way,
Don't know if you already did it but yes just loosing each a little bit at a time, that's actually the easiest way,
Do you recall the mileage on this GC when you performed this repair?
171k
So I'm guessing around 1.5 to 2 hours when being careful?
Ya know, if you read the service manual, you don't have to go through all that trouble, and remove all of those parts. Never let the axle hang from the upper ball joint!
Why??
Wouldn't the weight of the axel help separate the balljoint from the arm and while using a pickel fork break it loose?? Ofcourse use the jack under the differental so it doesn't drop to the ground.
How long did it take?
awwww crap. just realized my driver side, I have the round bushing on the bottom vs the Oval one. LOL. still drive good . realized it when putting the pass side on, a week later. Hey the artic blast came and cold as hell. wondered why it was so hard to get the upper in and this side slid right on. Duhhhhh,
u should put down what kind of jeep your working on thats not a liberty mine has a ball joint and i dont see were i have to remove any thing to get it out
did you have any drive line issues in the front or rear?
Nope! Just needed alignment.
I don't like am parts , I prefer crown standard parts , the easy way is a rubber strap or strap as your lifting it it will be set or use a hydraulic jack set at height with a 2x4,, i take the whole bottom plate of with the boomerang attach,, I use rtv on bolts one pass lightly on threads to to stay in place,, I also use rubber(does not matter, old tires) one inch thick at least in the shape of the bottom plate any type drill in the holes, that helps on cushioning, longevity, damaging moving stressing or pulling up the bolts,, I also use rubber spacers on the coil springs lifted , will help as well for the bushings controlled arms
I have to get that done before winter. It sucks ass to do that outside when theres dark and -25
So trying to remove the control arm and itjustwont come off. We've been hammering on it for 3hours just just is stuck on the screw. Any ideas.
Jack up the Jeep
SUPER
Just did the job today putting it back together and and putting on the new one only took about two and a half hours taking it off the car the old one took about 6 hours
Great!! The labor seams about right.
With a WJ Jeep lifted anything over 1" you must install a spacer on top of the axle to raise the ball joint off the axle. The height of the spacer needs to match your lift height. I made mine out of 3 pieces of steel tubing and a piece of the old ball joint plate welded together, but they can be purchased from a few offroad companies also. Without the spacer installed, all of the parts of the rear upper control arm are in a constant bind, and will fail much sooner. Even the control arm itself can break if you offroad frequently. Ask me how I know this ha! ha!
Hi do you who sales this spacers I’m having the same issue on my Jeep Liberty with a 3” cool spring lift. Thanks for any feedback.
I never understood why people remove the springs and all that.... unnecessary 😆
The rear upper would be a lot easier to instal with out the springs in place ......... This would allow you to push the axle all the way up to the bump stops ........ Then instal the springs and shocks last ........
y loved when everrything is clean honder the jeep yloved
How much did you pay for all the control Arms?
Why didn't you just raise the axel with the jack instead of the straps??
what size lift on the wj?
6" Rustys off road kit.
Did this cure death wobble?
Never heard of death wobble on the rear tires?🤔
ebay is cheaper on the control arm
Never ever ever use cement blocks if any kind to rest weight of vehicle. They can can crumble. Hope u have good insurance lol
jeep liberty a lot ease-yer no need to remove any thing but the control arm
ty
just make sure the pinch nut for the ball joint is tight
or it will pop out
Hi, just like to say you made this way too hard! According to the factory service manual, all that is needed (in addition to having already jacked the body and stands under frame rails just like you did (I needed the blocks to get it high enough as well) is to gently jack up the axle an inch or two and then support with a second pair of jack stands. I also used a new upper with new ball joint, so I did not even bother to separate the upper control arm from the ball joint. With all the shocks, springs, brakes, etc. still on the car the boomerang shaped upper slid right out, even with the ball joint hanging on.....I did need a boss 21 mm combo wrench and elbow grease to get the bolts from the ball joint plate to back out...and left the upper connections of the control arm in place it helped to raise the ball joint away from the differential.....the lower control arms came out like butter. Still working on a leaking pinion seal at the rear diff.....my 01 WJ has two pinion seals back there....and the outer one was pretty shredded, but oddly nobody but Jeep dealership stocks this item...hmmm. Thanks for video, was nice to see at least one video about this...the manual is poorly written and has insufficient diagrams most of the time, but when they said to support the axle...solved some of the issues you guys had pulling it back into place to get it elevated back to the ball joint connection. Ciao ciao!
Yeah, I don't know why they didn't just raise the axel to align back up with the jack?🤔