The Hardest Possible Climbing Fall - P.1
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- čas přidán 30. 01. 2022
- What are the forces on really hard Lead Climbing Falls? Are big or small falls harder for the climber?
Massive thank you for everyone who helped me to do these experiments.
P.s. NO one got injured ;)
If you are in nerdy needs to measure forces - highly recommend to check out the new LineScale:
bit.ly/3gcPnHJ
*This is an affiliate link that might give me a small benefit.
If you are getting value out of my videos and wanna feel good - consider supporting me: hardiseasy.com
Because that makes a big difference and allows me to create more!
Thanks a ton!
Ben - Sport
Good to be back! Took some time to go around Europe and filmed a toooon of experiments, can't wait to share everything with you! This video is just a little teaser of what's coming ;)
And Special thanks for people who helped me to film this episode! Super fun to remember all of you!
Can't wait to see all of it!
Wonderful, your experiments are super interesting! I learned a lot of fascinating and useful stuff thanks to yours videos!
Was this at camp4 Zweibrücken? Looks like it
It's great to see you guys back! And with a Linescale added to the repertoire, I'm very excited for what's to come from this channel.
Great to see you back! Thanks for the interesting content.
Watching a Video and suddenly recognizing the gym they‘re in is a weird feeling… Nice small Gym!
Greetings to Camp4 🤘
Got a bit worried when I saw you move towards the pendulum. Glad your teeth survived!
Seriously! There's a reason Professor Lewin had the back of his head against a wall!
Haha... just tested my reflexes :DDD and 10kg of weight is not gonna hit hard at the top of the pendulum :DDD
Good to see you again! Very informative, as always.
17:54 Finally it shows up again like every other day in a traffic signal, a page number, etc.
Been waiting as fast as i could! Good to have you back!
Yea great to read this thanks !
Yes. It’s great to see you back. Been working on my falls more. I’m getting somewhat better
Niiice congrats on your progress - as always small steps over long time wins over trying to rush and burn
so happy for a new video, all the best bro!
I’m pumped you’re back! Just got my own rope and working on falling!
1:51 the most informative part of the video for sure
Thanks man
"Just a little Teaser"....... 22min 😀
I am very curious for all the content coming up 😎🤩
Thanks a lot for your hard work and for sharing your knowlege with us 🤗👍
I know you've been busy abd have a lot of material for new videos but don't forget about your "how to belay" series. Ep. 6 needs to be redone to show the proper PBUS technique and more important, the episode about literally "how to belay" is not done yet! (how and when to soft catch, slack management, distance to the wall, etc.) Please, please, pretty pleeeaseee xD Amazing content as usual, keep it coming!
Haha, nothing is forgotten ;) And everything you mentioned is in the backlog ;) I actually wanted to do extra testing for ep.6 to see if Tunel method can fail - and that's gonna be interesting episode on its own ;)
Very interesting video. Can´t wait for whatever you have in store.
Happy that you are back cant wait to see more vidéos and maybe some more outdoor climbing 🙂
Me too, I appreciated very much the three Lubna videos!
Good to see you back!
Very cool results!
Thanks for your sharing
So nice to see that you went into the CAMP 4 gym in Germany. It's my mostly visited gym for climbing.
Makes me wonder, where you are from :D
Greetz
Pat
Yeah, cool, this is our Climbing Gym in the Winter... Camp4 in Zweibrücken. We go bouldering there... U climbed at our Sandstone-Rocks?
Nice Video with good Information as always! Like ur Channel!
Fun fact: Health studies love to measure grip strength. For example when it comes to measuring the effect of protein intake in elderly persons.
Loved the 2nd part, just a bunch of friends fixiated on a rather dumb thing, teasing each other hahaha
13:13 Interesting.
With the same height from which the weight falls, the kinetic energy at the bottom should be approx the same K=1/2mv^2=mgh
So, at the bottom the centrifugal force would be F_c = mv^2/R = 2K/R(approx) reduced with more R.
And the net force at the bottom would be approx the peak force if it falls straight down + centrifugal force - recoil (incase the weight stretches the rope away from the bottom part due to which it bounces)
_(Not sure if that can be added/subtracted this easily, but it's going to be 2K/R(centrifugal) +/- something)_
🤔 It'd be bad if the recoil point happens right at the bottom with peak centrifugal force.
The only real paper on rope swings I found was this: www.bigel-labs.de/3.Physik/RopeSwing/RopeSwing#5
It does not talk about forces to the rope but instead about G forces, but shows how they don't peak at the bottom of the swing and instead somewhere along where the rope starts getting tense...
@@HardIsEasy Wow, that's counter-intuitive! Imma look into this. Thanks a ton.
@@bios546 Think about it... Rope starts absorbing the fall / slowing you down way before you reach mid point of the swing...
Might actually Include some graphs of force over time in some of my vids
ayyyy you finally got your line scale
I'm new to climbing. As in, I haven't even done it yet but wanting to start soon. I'd really like to see more videos on falling. Like, "how to fall as safely as possible"
Falling is not hard, just let go. Belaying is hard though. Search for soft catch in climbing.
When he said it wasn’t me, I lost it. That guy is funny as heck.
Liked how the Airedale Terrier came running up to the belayer: "are you OK?"
TKS!
Nice!
I’d like to see what the forces for the leader are using an ohm device. I always feel like the catch is super hard
How not 2 has a video of a 50 kg belayer catching a 131kg leader using the ohm. 2.9kn with a factor 1 fall, so yeah that's a pretty hard catch.
Great Video as always! I'm super curious about a new piece of gear a friend recommended to me. The Edelrid Ohm- Assisted-braking resistor for increasing rope friction when there is a large weight difference between the belayer and lead climber. In the event of a fall, the OHM increases the amount of rope friction to the first bolt so that a lighter belayer can hold a heavier lead climber without difficulty.
What is your opinion on this device?
I'll make a video about it some time in not so near future (overloaded a bit), but it's great for what it does, don't know anything better at this day
About time.!
😂😉
6:30 Whew, I know that feel.
Good stuff! So can we calculate the max G-force that the body had to suffer in the biggest fall? Off the top of my head, that would be around 4g, no? That is pretty interesting, because in a video I made with bouldering falls the peak force was more than twice as much! Dynamic rope sure does a good job of softening the fall!
I tried to play a bit with accelerometer in the phone to get G froces, but not much success so far, would need more accurate device for that.
But I have a looooot of data from dynonometer and hundred + falls
here are some physics with G forces on big rope swings: www.bigel-labs.de/3.Physik/RopeSwing/RopeSwing#5
@11:44 is a perfect example of your fall when you don't jump backwards.
Hy, i am actually very curios if any of your test buddies, got some back/hip pain out of your science project. As a professionell treeclimber i learned in all of my courses, how severely dangerous even tiny falls into a static rope are. So trying to push the limits of a fall with an elastic rope and a real climber feels a bit crazy to me. Still you aproached the testing quite safely bringing the falling-faktor slowly up and the content was interesting.
So thanks from my side!!
It`s zero pain. climbing belt ( climbing harness) is over your hip, and the shock off the fall is absorbed by the straps that is attached to the belt and around the thigs of the climber. The climbing rope is almost like a bungee rope and is highly elastic. The real risk is to fall hard into the wall and to break the ancles or hands. To prevent this it`s important that the belayer uses " dynamic belaying" , this technic makes the fall alot softer for the climber
People do gigantic rope jumps on dynamic climbing ropes - the material has enough elasticity that you can basically fall any distance without encountering high enough forces to cause serious damage.
The subtitles at 01:48 got me really really really.
:DDDDDDDD
0:08 you need to remember to keep your face very steady where the movement began, you went like 5cm foward. Dangerous hahahah (thats why Professor Lewin did it touching a wall)
I'm always concerned about the scientificness of videos like yours on CZcams. But your videos are, from a scientific perspective, pretty accurate.
This gym looks sick tho😍
I want see Lead Solo forces. Where you're falling close to the anchor
Ojalá tuviera subtítulos en español. Me encantan tus vídeos. Mi culpa por no saber inglés!!!
“Adam Ondra was my coach” 😂
lol I was in that climbing hall yesterday
You are in Zweibrücken?!!! 😃👍👍👍
Hi people of the comments section. Would anyone climb with a line scale device to be able to log the force of the falls they’ve taken?
Wouldn't the z drags actually help soften the fall?
The extra friction starts absorbing force before it makes it to the belay device, spreading out the impact, and there is more rope stretch in the system to absorb force overall.
From my experience on real climbs with a lot of drag or some experiments I saw heavy drag makes a much harder catch for the climber.
I guess rope stretch is better at absorbing the impact compared to friction.
In heavy friction situations rope close to the belayer doesn't get much load and doesn't stretch that much...
Maybe slight friction could actually produce the result you are talking about, but I have no proofs just speculation
@@HardIsEasy that makes sense, thanks!
Yeah I have had very heavy climbers say "great catch" when they were fairly high up and when they fell but I felt nothing. There was no jump by me bc I felt no force on me at all to jump into. But I thought it was bc there was so much drag bc of so much rope out that the system did all the work.
@@nettewilson853 I've heard similar stories where the climber fell high up on a multi pitch, later said good catch to the belayer and their belayer didn't even know they fell
The amount of rope out will modify the amount of force generated.
I didn't know that Timothee Chalamet is a rock climber :D
The real competition would be the loudest fart while pressing the LS3.
Ok, you go first :)
3:38 Hardy-Z-Z!
Hi!
waiting for subtitles
RU and EN 😊
8-9KN is spine snapping territory, not rope snapping, probably knot snapping, too.
hi ich habe an einem Tischirt erkannt, dass du in einer Kletterhalle in Deutschland bis. Meine Frage wäre, in welcher Stadt
Am i the only one worried about the rope? UIAA ratings for single rope is 5 i recall and if exceeded you should retire the rope? This test exceeded that waaaay much?
💪😀
14:58 piezoelectric! Probably, anyway.
What is the device model please ?
When is belay masterclass Ep6 coming back online?
In about 1-2months, I have multiple exciting videos coming before that that would also add some extra info...
And ofc the serries has much more to come as well
One question... Why the small 10kg disc generates 2.9Kn and the 72kg human just generated even less?? I can't find a explanation by myself. Thanks!!
lesser ropelenght = lesser way for friction. with lesser friction or stretching you have higher forces.
We should look at the impulse, the soft human body will spend longer time decelerating than a rigid steel plate. So you need less force because you have longer time to apply the force
1. In the gym I was mentioning loads to the climber, in my room the dynonometer was on the top making the reading almost double.
2. Very little rope in the room def makes a very static catch.
One fact not mentioned yet is that a lot of energy is diffused in the elasticity of the person's body, resulting in lower force. Drop tests with rigid objects generate much stronger forces.
waiting for subtitles(
Will you put subtitles in Spanish?
The videos are very good
Push in from the arc to the middle where you tie your rope while reseting maybe? So its resets while in negative values, after that try to do the same thing :D
Hey dude, it would be cool if you could split the video in sections like Ryan does! 🤜🏼🤛🏼
Hey Rafael! You mean chapters?
I kinda did not think that this one has meaningful splits... but in general good reminder
Un saludo desde Colombia por que está no tiene traducción a español😞😞😞😞
Subtitulo en español please!!!
6:31 Wow, HOW did THAT happen?
Just climbing on jugs a lot :D
germans, drinking beering during the climb ;)
Was fun to be there with them!!!!
An injury while climbing is called, accentident
I was worried during the intro since you moved forward 😅
Tested my reflexes :DDDD
damn all that grey hair bro you been stressing or like me and just got it from dad looks grey anyway
Congratulations for the video, but, if possible, put subtitles in Portuguese.
:)
omg i didn't believe it. bro are you alive? how is hanna banana?
Am I alive? ghm... I hope so :D Banana ... you will see a bit of her in next videos ;)
@@HardIsEasy =))) Greetings from Russia!
How not to
You was in zweibrücker? Or?
Nice.
One of my climbing halls.
If i had know this bevore you came to have lunch with me and my Girlfriend
FIRST ONE IS HARDER
Why no line scale on the top bolt? More practical significance to see what forces the top piece sees. The conclusion of this vid is that you shouldn't push off from the wall? Feel like that was already common knowledge??
We had linescale on top quickdraw as well as on belayer but that data has no relevance for this video.
Is that a German accent? :D
Great content!! #1 spot to increase your channel's engagement P R O M O S M!!!
Why are Europeans weigh so little
compared to who?
70-80kg is a fairly normal adult weight.