Video

Excellent thorough video, with only the dyslexic mispronunciation of "Eder-lid" repeated, for viewer amusement. Know a climber who survived very near severing of a rope, in a barely factor 1 penduluming fall across a rough granite bulge, where he was left hanging from just two of the core bundles. No acute edges, just rock texture under the loaded rope, shredded the sheath and nearly all the core. Sliding the rope along any rough grit under tension is a recipe for disaster; double rope techniques might provide more insurance, where the second rope doesn't get the initial wear, and could be weighted in a different section of the climb where the abrasion isn't a factor. Awareness of how and when such rapid abrasion can occur ultimately is the most critical factor. It is easy to imagine edge situations like the tests here, where climbers are just not thinking about such potential for rope failure, especially in trad cragging and alpine settings. Placing protection with an eye to keeping a running rope away from such edges could be as important as just placing solid gear, if not more so. Taking a clear 30-foot fall might be far safer than a 10 foot fall over an edge.

26:32 Brains in action! What an amazing video! Go Mammut!

1964 - 2024 is 60 years not 80! I was born in 1964

did that guy survive the fall?????

100% wouldnt be buying that garbage anymore

I'm no expert, but I belonged to a climbing gym for a while. I seem to remember that the #1 rule is that you NEVER let go of the tail end of the rope on-belay. Never. You don't allow any slack in it either, and you hold it in such a manner that you can immediatly lock your belay device using downward pressure. Am I missing something here? Are there climbers who think Grigris are fool-proof hands free belay devices? Are they marketed as such? If so, that's terrifying

What about falling on slabs? Also isn't it batter to belay this way to produce soft catches? Have a little (max 1 arm) of slack + jump (right timing) and at the same time tube slide

Is some of the energy in cutting over an edge in part due to pressure/heat building up on the fabric as it rubs the edge?

A month ago I almost died in a 6 meter fall. My partner panicked. He pressed the gri gri with both hands. I basically lost one finger and the strength in my hand. Im done climbing... choose your climbing partner carefully.

The Mammut core protect rope is just a great innovation. So it deserves the name "Eierlegende" because its another step into the direction of getting the full package.

My shool did went to a climbing center and it was sooooo fuuuunnnn. Even if I did not have a experience partner

I remember a lot of guys were climbing on Goldline back in 69/70. My first rope was a Perlon kernmantle rope in 1970.

"Slackrope"

It's pretty obvious it should be called Ropey McRopeface.

this thing .. u mean a hacksaw ...

the segway to the sponsor was so smoooth

God that girl is horrible

rope meets another rope. 'are you a rope?' he asks. other rope says ' no, i am afraid knot' .

Steve, the safety snake. Larry, the load lizard. Evan, the elevator. Industrial access.

The BEND KNEE method also works when NOT SEEING the climber for me, because I instinctively/automatically go for a jump when a sudden drag on the rope occurs. I guess this should be the case for most climbers.

This was scary and also reassuring. Thanks for the great deep dive into abrasion resistance and rope dynamics!

Thank you for your exceptionally comprehensive and professional work Ben, please keep it up!

What if the inner sheath was braided with nitinol wire?

Wrapping it in a material similar to what's used in lightweight stab-proof vests won't help?

Ropey McRopeface.

So… I lived hanging from a grigri over a decade with zero problems. Maybe stupid people just avoid dangerous sports.

Idk why watching the rope rub against that edge made me so uncomfortable

Better to have rope cost more or become unusable, definitely better than dead.

Armie Hammer- cause it’ll whip you and then drop you

Very interesting video (to an Engineer, not a Climber!). Thank you for taking the time to make it.

I knew nothing about rope other from the Hobbit that every one needs one on a journey. Very informative video .

Informative video. The best possible marketing for a rope. I would definitely pay extra for this.

1:39 Did I just watch someone die?

I would name that rope ‘Ben,’ because it provides a sense of security, much like your videos do! 🌟

Tech-wise, what makes this rope different than Mammut protect? Seems similar

Unbelieveable that somebody who's day job is designing and working with ropes can't pronounce "sheath" properly.

I did think of polyaramide oversized sheath when presented with the problem, though I was thinking about including a (experimentaly found) number of hardened steel wires of short length, in that inner sheath weave, like maybe just a few wires in any given section, of whatever thickness gives best results (if any) vs increased weight and stiffness. I guess using titanium (or more realistically, some sort of advanced alloy) would be lighter. The idea being that the wires do not provide any strain strength, they would be there to be "sacrificial rollers" for the core strains inside - they might be cut in few mm or maybe a 1cm of motion, but that will all add up. Plus maybe even some heat dissipation benefits...

Well, as a Rope Access technician that uses only 11mm, that 10.2mm result really makes me feel a little bit safer for sure! Amazing video, dude!

Where can I find the video about catching low lead falls?

They need a cool name for that rope. Something like "A-Core." When can I buy me some A-core rope?

Anti-gravity clothing could make this exercise obsolete. Imagine that.

If you use tazlov for top rope solo your gunna want to put it in the smaller loop it helps with better positioning.

why not just weave some sort of lightweight metal or aluminum into the threads? shield them with some sort of alloy covering?

Rope name " Slinky" because it is strong, stretches and returns. 😁

I call my rope Yosemite Samson - without the braids I would be dead!

I call my rope Yosemite Samson - without the braids I would be dead!

I'd be interested about the test on double ropes which are widely used for multipitch in Europe. For example 2xbeal cobra. Will the load division alleviate the problem?

Nylon isn't the first synthetic fiber, not even close. Rayon was invented in 1894 and first put into mass production in 1899, acrylonitrile rubber fiber was invented in 1930 and Nylon was invented in 1931. Nylon was however the first to find commercial success.

what about a steal or a carbon kevlar single strand core? as a back up against the cut scenario?

I hope it gets answered later in the video somehow but they showed it twice already, the guy in red falling down and his rope getting cut on the rock. Is he dead now? I'm really concerned about him.