Falling physics that Every Climber Needs to know
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- čas přidán 5. 06. 2024
- Impact forces during Lead Climbing Falls - a bonus episode of Belaying Masterclass
Understand what role rope length, stretch and friction plays in climbing falls and you will be an awesome belayer ;)
Ryan testing real climbing fall forces:
• Lead falls in climbing...
There is no Gravity:
• Which Way Is Down?
And I intentionally skipped talking about fall factors... they almost mean nothing in lead climbing scenarios.
Fall factor = fall distance / rope length... But it misses the factor of how the climber was stopped (hard catch vs soft)
And you can't compare fall factors of lab experiments dropping weights vs real life, because climbers body will absorb 70% of the impact compared to rigid weight drop
www.petzl.com/BE/en/Sport/Fal...
And please don't tell anyone that 1kN is EQUAL to 100kg because not only it's approximation it also depends on the context ;)
0:00 Intro
0:25 What is Force
1:59 Gear rating
5:54 Soft gear breaking at low kN
7:48 Dynamic Falls
10:54 Real life fall forces
11:22 Big whipper vs Small fall
17:07 Friction
Here is a bunch of other goodies:
DMM break sling:
dmmclimbing.com/Knowledge/Jun...
Gravity changes from month to month:
earthdata.nasa.gov/learn/sens...
Simple way to calculate Impact forces:
sciencing.com/calculate-force...
Max allowed force for climbing ropes:
www.petzl.com/BE/en/Sport/How...
Rope drag Friction increases the force on a climber:
www.petzl.com/BE/en/Sport/Con...
GriGri vs ATC impact force
www.petzl.com/BE/en/Sport/Inf...
If you are getting value out of my videos and wanna feel good - consider supporting me: hardiseasy.com
Because that makes a big difference and is the main reason I do this project!
Deep Thanks!
Ben - Sport
Unfortunately I know 4 people who had their ankles sprained during last yea... All cases results of hard belaying... I hope this video will help to reduce such incidents.
More practical examples are coming in my future videos.
At this moment I earn almost nothing making these videos, so if you get value from them and want to say thank you consider supporting me here:
czcams.com/users/hardiseasyjoin
Now you know 5 ;) although I guess I was a dumb dumb not judging my health right 🤷♀️
Another one here 🙋 luckily that wasn't severe. Actually we were fighting our fear of falling and, well, I guess now it's time to learn that soft catch 😅
Hi, really nice and accurate video.
However I use a grigri, can you please explain in a video some techniques to belay softly with that contraption in order to have a soft catch?
Thank you and keep it going!
@@twilightrosaliefan I should have probably made belaying videos before fear of falling :DDD
@@fabiobottarelli2721 Doesn't really matter which belay device you use. A soft catch has to do with how the belayer behaves. You can see Ben catching Hanna dynamically at around 9:00.
As a Physics PhD student, I can say that this guy is better at explaining physics applications than about 94% of college professors
I feel sorry for you
😂😂amazing
I liked the precision of 94% 😂
watched the video,
now i think i know why i am where relative to where i've been and how i got here.
but not quite more
... i need more dimensions
physics
Remember this as you calculate that loan interest.
TLDR: Falling doesn’t kill you, sudden stops do.
15G or 12kN for 80kg mass and you are in bad shape :D
@@HardIsEasy depends on the direction and the lenght of the stop...
@@TheValinov Time is the main factor here, running into a wall at 15mph will generate the same force as falling at 15mph if you increase the time it takes to stop you reduce the amount of force applied at any given moment, you experience the same force overall but it is spread out in time so the maximum force on your body hopefully doesn't exceed it's structural limitations, direction doesn't make any difference in any real sense, what might is changing direction so that you roll on the ground so that you are dissipating your momentum more slowly, but the change in direction isn't what makes the distance as a solid wall will be just as unforgiving as the ground if you have the same overall change in speed over the same time period. Another factor that DOES matter, is how spread out the force is, for example the harness will concentrate forces in the areas where it contacts your body, in the case where the forces concentrated in that area become far greater than the forces you would sustain hitting the ground, a failure could actually save your life, if you were at a high height you'd want for it to fail in stages, one part catches you, fails, then the next and so on such that the force is never applied all at once, if you are above a certain height and you fall more than a certain height, it won't matter whether the harness stops you or the ground does or the rock face!
@@5688gamble trust me direction makes a lot of sense. imagine all your bones and flesh are springs, in which direction would you have the longest spring-lenght and in which direction the most side by side?
i learnt in my aero-space class that we can endure way more g while laying on our back, then what we could do standing because the force is distributed over more area. but in case of falling i'm sure its healthier to break your legs instead of your chest.
We have a funny comedian in Austria who goes into this. Rough translation (since he speaks in dialect)..
"I don't understand why it's called flight anxiety. I don't have anxiety of flying, I have anxiety of crashing"...
Just climb at night when the earth is upside down or go to Australia, easy.
In Russia, mountain climbs you
You know why this does not work..... It's flat!! :D
but when i climb at night or in australia.. it means i f i fall i will fall unti lthe world turns around again.. o.O
Actually it's better to climb at noon when the sun is overhead for the same reason as you want to climb with the moon above you. It will slightly pull up on you, reducing the acceleration down.
For the same reason the worst time to climb is midnight when sun is directly bellow you, adding it's pull to Earth's. Although the distance is a bit more so that might actually be way less impactful. Someone needs to do the math for that.
In conclusion. The best time to climb is during a solar eclipse at noon. It is also the worst time to climb if you are on the other side of the planet.
@@RomanQrr So best day to climb is at a complete solar system line-up-constellation - when's the next? I googled...doesn't ever happen but the closest we will get to one is on May 6th, 2492. To all future climbers around that time: good luck :D
Very good demonstration and summary! Something else to consider: When falling at the lower bolts, the risk of hitting the ground increases when trying to belay more gently. Not always easy to decide.
I'll cover that in the future
@@HardIsEasy that would be a good idea so that differents ends of the equation are covered :)
hitting ground is ok, if it is with force low enough ... of course, depends on surface elasticity you are falling on - pebbles are awesome, concrete not so much
This is exactly I was thinking while watching the second example with the shorter fall. We learned in the lead course that there is the danger of falling to the ground in the climbing gym unitl the 5th or 6th quickdraw. So we were told to belay with really short rope and standing right on the wall (1m to the wall and 1m to the side) until the climber reaches the 7th quickdraw. But now I am questioning myself how I should behave in the case of a fall. Sure, when the fall happens near the top soft belaying is no problem but what if the fall happens earlier? Let's say at the 4th quickdraw? I think maybe hard belaying and a broken ankle is the better choice than falling to the ground. But I don't know.
Thanks to Covid I gained some weight so my climbing partners are not much heavier than me as before which had solved the problem of hard belaying because I were usually 10-15kg lighter than them. So when we will start climing again I will face the problem much more than before. Well, I think I should lose some weight 😉
@@AJInfield I've seen lighter persons using sandbags when securing their partners in the gym.
as an engineer, I did find this very funny.
I hope more ppl would understand my jokes :DDDDD
This video is so golden.
hahaha I was about to comment this
not a climber, not even into physics ... but enjoyed every second of it. 😂
Oh, and btw, kudos for demonstrating gravity with bare feet.
As a SpaceX engineer. I agree lol
I approve of your use of quickdraws as a scientific unit!
It actually doesn't matter what unit you use :D because it's a ratio between the same units ;)
You can measure in hold holes if you want :D
Also, as a physics grad this made me happier than I can express... Might have enjoyed classical mechanics a bit more if these examples had been involved, too 😜
@@HardIsEasy Using some "special" unit was a great way to implicitly explain this.
I wish the kids I teach climbing to were fluent in english, so I could make them watch your videos!! You explain things so well. Thanks so much for all the genius ideas and hard work you put into your videos.
Ralph Stein Yeah, as if the whole world had english as a native langage. It’s rather you who is looking stupid here my dear. Go back to your bed and calm down.
What's your native language? Maybe in the future I can add subtitles...
@@HardIsEasy I am French. Do you speak french? =) More seriously, if you want to add subtitles on your videos, I am willing to help for translation from english to french.
@@Gorwee I think maybe Ralph was joking.
@@ratamacue0320 Why would he be joking?
The Tirol mountain rescue did some tests on slings and those recordings really drive home how little of a fall is necessary to break them. I think it is this information that really needs to be shared to bring the number of fatalities down. Your video does a good job in that regard.
Yes, I do a lot of tree climbing. And I do not use anymore a sling or a static rope for securing me for the emergency case of slipping and falling. When I climb free I use a klettersteig set and a sling only for fixing in a safe position..
.
Do you have a link of Tirol Mountain Rescue testing slings? As a new outdoor climber with fear of heights I'm curious and eager to learn more.
The human body will break and rip apart before a sling does. Also, the human body is stretchy and squishy, and cannot generate the forces that a rigid steel test mass can.
as a MSc student in engineering area I'd like to say, that this guy is brilliantly explaining physical concepts
Yep, “more rope means more stretch.” Such a great way to say it
I’m pretty new to climbing, and all the information can feel a little daunting at times. Your videos provide great info in an interesting way. Thank you so much, you’re awesome.
Yey! Thanks and enjoy ;)
MATLAB👍👍👍 I thought, I was the only guy doing matlab simulations for climbing stuff😎🤓🤓. Great work!
Thanks! 👍
I even used climbing gear vs construction gear at the universal testing machine from university haha
You know it's probably a bad sign when you instinctively, and instantly recognise the MATLAB interface! I know that I did...
@@benrae6337 same but with Octave. Pray for me
A discussion of impulse and momentum would make this more complete, but probably less digestible. I have my physics students work out a problem like this except with a full treatment of kinematics and impulse momentum principles, it's quite fun :)
and elasticity.
I would love to somehow incorporate some of this in my calculus 1 class!
I like that Newton was wearing his famous toga.
Great explanation of Dead Isaacs or “Kill-a-Newton’s”! 😂
You are a bit to late with your jokes... video is edited already... :DDDD
Why is Isaac Newton wearing a toga?
Film making on a budget... P.s. that toga is my bed sheet :D
Don't you know the ancient greek philosopher Κύριε Isaac Newton? He had the idea of gravity when a fig fell on his head.
He's going to a party!
Breathability and comfort
Why is Newton using units that weren't invented until 70 years after his death?
From FOF to some good physics, one of the bests channels out there! Just sent my first 6a+ after your videos gave me a confidence boost haha thanks a lot and keep it up
Nice work buddy! And thanks!
OMG this is going to create SOOOO many arguments at the crag...I love it!
Rope resting is super interesting: slingshots have similar properties and there's a temperature element to it as well.
It is kind of like a motorsports accident, the dramatic ones with lots of spins and rolls aren't the ones where people get hurt, the ones where the vehicle comes to a very sudden stop are the dangerous ones.
You put so much effort into this video and it turned out so well!
Nice explanations + you‘re a cool guy !
I stopped watching climbing videos since chronic illness made it so I can't climb anymore, but this snuck into my recommended and I watched it fully.
Great video, great and clear explanations and examples, important subject made very digestable, love your sense of humor, and the skillful and funny editing. Well done!
that classic Vsauce "what is life" moment...
Haven't watched him enough to reach that moment yet :))))
@@HardIsEasy I'm both happy and sad for you hahahaha, most of his videos I feel a mixture of thrilled/dazzled and very dumb at the same time...
"today is a bad gravity day" 😆
When gravity is bad... Is it easier to climb? :)))
ask Elon Musk for a fast track to Mars and be the first climber on Mars
Me sitting here with an injured knee from a hard fall watching these videos to accelerate healing time
I think humor should contribute to better hormonal balance in the body and that will increase healing
These fall videos have been fantastic! I'd say I had a fair understanding of falling but it's definitely up a level now. Incredibly useful knowledge for me in particular since I had a pretty nasty free solo accident a year an half ago and for a while I didn't think I could get back to climbing if I couldn't fall off. But watching your videos recently has made me realize that yeah, I could take lead falls even I just have to chose my routes more carefully, which generally means steeper overhanging climbs or at least off vertical walls. Soon I'll be trying out some fall practice from your previous video and then hopefully I can jump back on the send train! Thank you 🙏 and keep it up🙌👍
Thank you! And hope you get your recovery fast!
Really nice done, thanks for that! I always run to my laptop when the hard is easy bell is ringing. Really looking forward to all of your upcoming videos. One thing i wish to see in the future: You while climbing! I have only seen you climbing one time during fear of falling part one testing the belay skills of the german climbing machine. Keep crushing!
Thank you very much! :DDD Yea maybe in the future if I can grow this Chanel to the point where I can hire someone to help me film and edit...
Although this year was not the best for my climbing .... had sprained both ankles (both accidents non climbing :) and then injured a thumb :DDD + lockdown... so all the goals goes to next year :D
My friend is practicing falls tomorrow and I sent her this video!! So cool to learn about the physics behind climbing! This video is spectacularly well done!
These videos are sooo well done! I recently finished watching the belay masterclass videos and now I’m working my way through the other vids. Can’t wait to get climbing!
Loved the video, i've learned much ! This kind of content is great
Ben, I'm pausing halfway through just to comment. Damn, dude... Your videos are always top notch! Great content + Great filming + Super editing. Keep up the excellent work!
Duuuuude your message came at very very moment I needed it... I was in a low phase of a ride before and reading your message really helped to see bigger pic ;)
You will understand in my next video ;)
I love it!! I'm just a begginer in climbing issues but i love all this Physics stuff that are the minnimum factor of all "human" physical activity (jumping, falling, punching, running, etc...)
I was not expecting such an in depth explanation of force from a random climbing video. was very well done!
great video and channel. I wish Physic lessons in school would habe been so vivid!
Probably you were not lucky with a teacher ;)
It's crazy how much teachers effect the life of ppl...
Great explanation bro. People really should understand that high acceleration is what causes injury/broken gear (acceleration includes speeding up, slowing down, or changing direction). Elastic elements in the system can absorb some of the shock and reduce the peak forces, this is good for your gear and your spine. Handling falls in climbing isn't just about attaching yourself to something rigid with a static rope, you'll break your back if you don't snap a carabiner at least. Elasticity is the name of the game here, shock absorption. This is why all climbers should know their basic physics, you're a weight on the end of a string going through pulleys and often using nothing but friction to keep gear in the wall (cams). Call me cautious but I like to know when and how that string might break lol. Too many don't know this stuff, and hence why so many make critical errors like taking 50cm falls onto static gear. But this kind of thing is rarely explained to beginner climbers, presumably because instructors either don't really understand it themselves or because they assume the students would find it confusing. Personally I'd say, if you're not willing to be confused, you're not willing to learn, and if you're not willing to learn how to keep yourself alive you should find another hobby :P
Thanks for the great videos (and fantastic editing)! You have another subscriber:) A few months ago I watched Ryan’s video about the falling forces when I was taking a rock climbing class, and just now I realized that he’s the one you’ve mentioned in your videos. It’s a small world!
Small internet :D And thanks!
Love your channel! Great work on explaining the physics of force, mass and newtons! You are making climbing a safer place through your channel. I subscribed!
As an engineer, the code looks interesting. Explanation in scientific perspective is also impressive. Subscribe immediately!!
Whippers are more comfy than I expected.
Not so much on slabs though. 😅
You can't whip on slab... Maybe a slide ride... But I don't expect anyone bolt a slab with 10m fall potential :)))
On slabs you have to learn to appreciate "cheese grater" falls :)
Hard Is Easy www.mountainproject.com/route/105887609/s-wall
@@HardIsEasy I don't know how you define a slab, but any rock that is more than a bit less than vertical could involve a sleigh ride. There are quite a few places in Yosemite where the angle is less than vertical and the bolts (or other protection) is more than 5 meters apart e.g. The Snake Dike on Pywiak
(from the guide "Be very confident running it out on slabs ") or pitch 4 on Coonyard, particularly before a bolt was added - was that done with a top rope?
@@HardIsEasy its not just Yosemite as some of the folks below say. Theres a few "trad bolted" slate lines I can think of with big fall potential on slabs in the quarries near me! 😂
Like... 2 bolts and a small wire in 25m.
I like slabs though. Good for heavy folk like myself 😅
So happy I found your gem of a channel, love your style.
I haven't been climbing in 40 years, but I found this fascinating. Excellent job. Thank you.
as someone who allready knows that stuff: Great job! The physics check out, they were nicely visualized and easy to understand (even for beginners)! Wish my physics teacher would have explained it like that. Aaaalso I had a lot of fun watching it.
0:39 You realize that "Accumulation of midichlorians" is also a Star Wars reference, right? And a good one, at that :)
:D probably I should watch Star Wars...
3 years of university (molecular biology) and that was the best executed physics lecture I got in that time!
Just watched "falling physics Every Climber Needs to Know" and "Perfect Figure 8 knot every time". You are a master at explaining things. Thank you.
I was literally asking myself this stuff when I’ve seen your video about the double 8 knot. Thanks for doing the math for me :)
Looking forward to see some videos about proactive belaying. Thank you so much for what you are doing.
Fantastic!
I have fallen from 3 meters on my chest and face. A 12 meter whip sounds terrifying. Will see which is worse to take. I'm betting the whip.
EDIT1: I didn't realise the 12m whip would have 2 meters of dampening. Probably the 2m fall is worse impact.
EDIT2: yea dampening op.
dude if you crouch a 2 meter fall is literally nothing. I wouldn't be scared to jump off my roof which is 4 meters.
of course if you dive head first like an idiot it's gonna be bad. so don't do that -_-
ok anime face, you probably have really good ankles. I didn't jump from 3 meters mind you, I fell. I got up though so there's no need to contact life alert.
This was both entertaining and interesting to watch. As a new climber who is interested in the science behind climbing and the gear, this was a spot on video!
I love this video, very well done, informative, and entertaining. I've watched it multiple times and never gets old.
I have a degree in mechanical engineering, why am I watching this? Great video tho
9:07 You need to add m*a to that formula too, so it should be F=m*a*(1+h/d). Right now you're not taking the gravitational force into account, just the force created by the de-acceleration of the climber. Otherwise, great explanations!
I was going to say this exactly.
There's also the additional complication that the deceleration force is likely not constant, due to Hooke's Law, so the calculation is a bit more involved.
@@peabrane8067 That's also true. Even though the rope is not a perfect spring (there is hysteresis in it) the force in it does increase if you stretch it out.
Yeah, I'm not sure his equation is correct. He skipped how one comes up with it at 9:55. It would have been more clear if the video started with an energy transfer equation. Initially, we have potential energy, and that gets converted to work, the stretch of the rope. Potential energy = m*g*h... or is it = m*g*(h + d)? I think it is m*g*(h + d). That gets consumed by the work generated as the rope stretches... which is generally written simply as average force on the rope times the distance the force is applied = F*d. F*d = m*g*(h + d) which can be reshuffled to: F = m*g*(h/d + 1). F is the average force, not the peak or impulse as someone else mentioned in the comments.
Your style is so great!! Such simple explanations that are still so detailed. And the comedy was great
being new on the lead this video was a great education, and helped me to appreciate my high school physics education! Keep up the great work - you are making the climbing community smarter. Humor on point!
Yey thanks!
literally a physics lesson with the real physics terms substituted with climber slang :D
Great video!! I feel like you put a lot of work into them. Keep it up!! Not a climber but a real geek here. Thanks!!!
This video finally got me to understand fall factor. Everything else I've seen focuses on the amount of rope in the system first instead of the distance slowing down.
Very good overview, it helped me a ton to visualize both taking and belaying falls. I'm caught on that big vs. small falls example though, by your example the belayer caught the short fall two meters off the ground, which does leave room for a softer fall, but with a climber any lower than that I personally would worry that a hard catch would be better than even giving possibility for a ground fall - but I don't know for sure. I guess I could do the math if I sat down with it for a bit, but do you have any thoughts/recommendations for calculating more specifically at what height it is safe to make a dynamic catch?
Climbing roofs makes gravity less, according to gravity field's laws
That is very correct! Gonna add to some future videos... Roof literally attracts you...
So if we just add a huuuge mass behind the wall in roofs it will be much easier!!
@@jrgensneisen6021 another option is to climb at a really high altitude, where the gravity decrease.
We saw it in Mexico 1968, where competing at +2000meters let athletes to make bigger jumps.
We just need to find a boulder at +3000
z bajatasas altitude has a very small effect on gravity. The reason athletes do better at high altitude is mostly the air resistance, not the *direct* effect of gravity.
This is literally true. "In a demonstration of the sensitivity of the superconducting gravimeter, Virtanen (2006), describes how an instrument at Metsähovi, Finland, detected the gradual increase in surface gravity as workmen cleared snow from its laboratory roof."
This is the most informative video I have seen on any topic. And I've seen a lot of videos on many, many topics. Thank you Hard Is Easy.
I used to work the manufacturing floor of BD, and watching the break batch tests were so cool. I learned a lot working there, I loved it.
“I keep falling, i see the wall pas by in front of me. And i think... hmm, why is it taking so long for me to stop” famous last words
That must be a long fall for somone to start thinking like that..
3:00 If the objects are the same shape and have the same density, the heavier object will fall slightly faster because the smaller object has to overcome more drag proportional to it's weight
Also the object with more mass will exert an extremely small but proportionally larger gravitational pull on the earth, impacting faster due to pulling the ground towards itself.
@@Kieselmeister negletable
@@kaliningradtoczechrepublic8162 yes negligible, but TECHNICALLY correct! The best kind of Correct!
@DownloadPizza i think things like this shouldnt be considered, since its such a small force. Like we are not considering the current position of the moon(and therefore its gravity), but technically you are correct i guess
@@Kieselmeister I don't think this is true. Yes, the force of gravity between the larger object and earth would be more than between the smaller object and earth, but because the larger object has more inertia, the earth and it accelerate towards each other at the same rate as with the smaller object and earth. And so, they accelerate at the same rate for the same distance and so the impact is the same speed. However, again, because the larger object has more inertia, the impulse of the collision is larger for the larger object and results in a higher force of impact. This is not because of speed though.
I'm pretty sure YT recommended this to me because I follow Matt's Off Road Recovery; they use dynamic ropes to pull vehicles out of mud, sand, snow, etc. The recovery rig is often much lighter than the one to be recovered, but the rope stores the kinetic energy when the rope goes tight, jerking the recovered vehicle out. Yay for dynamic ropes!
I've just discovered this channel and I couldn't be happier, thank you!
I'm a physics and maths tutor and also the sort of physics climber nerd who does calculations for fun in their spare time to see exactly why certain things work or don't work. your video is exactly how I like to explain concepts to my students! =) Haven't progressed to experiments yet, but I can see it coming!
Latest project of mine was creating a very simple mathematical model of my body shape and mass distribution so I can have a better approximation rather than a point mass for any future calculations. I used average CoM measurements of different parts of the body from a biology paper (who actually cut up dead people to make the measurements which is pretty cool).
Love your channel, from the mental game of climbing to physics! Awesome!
Have you ever considered making videos on the physics of climbing technique? For instance, I've heard that laybacking is like creating a lever between your feet and your hands, are there any lessons in this on how to get through laybacks with minimal wasted energy? Or, how much weight is really on your hands vs your feet for various levels of overhang? Obviously physiology is a larger factor in most techniques but physics still probably offers lessons in a few areas! :)
Haha, well you are watching a nerd interested in human mind ;)
And to answer your question... probably no, because there is sooo many training videos showing you all the techniques that you probably only understand with years of practice ;)
But the main reason is that I can't focus on to many topics... So gonna go with Belaying Masterclass and climbing vids like with Hanna for now... Maybe in the future I can grow this channel to be able to hire someone to help me edit and film than it would be more dope :D
For laybacks it’s just like everything else use your legs. Keep your arms straight as far as possible and create the force with your legs. The other key thing is to use the rock so look where you are placing your feet and hands to get maximum benefit. Most of the force is the friction force the opposed pressure is creating but anything that minimises that helps.
@@davidwright7193 well yes but there's also a lot more complicated physics to this. Like, laybacking is creating a lever from your feet to your hands, and the length of that lever against as well as with gravity changes the amount of weight on your hands. So there are some interesting physics that can make a difference in when you decide to layback and which feet/hands you choose to use when laybacking, or how to set a layback at a specific difficulty level in a home gym etc
"and that's enough advertisement for you"
Hahahahahaha 🤣🤣🤣
That part got me ajajjaa
Yet another brilliant video, so glad I found this channel! Thank you! 🙌
Welcome! And Thank You!
One thing to add to his comments on material fatigue. Some metals can handle infinitely many cycles, corrosion aside. Any steel parts, so long as they are operating within their design, will never break no matter how many times they are put under load. Aluminum on the other hand does not have an infinite life cycle. An engineer will typically design aluminum parts to have a very high number of cycles required for failure(1 million or more).
So ok, I decided to take a look at this video for educational purposes (I love to learn about physics and all add sorts of odd things) but I have to say, that clone machine portion of the video would have made it all worth while even if I hadn't learned a thing... which fortunately I still actually did. Now if I could just figure out how to make a clone machine... I'd like one as well.
Would be nice to see a fully fleshed out video on proper belaying, I know you have some smaller ones on certain scenarios, but I think it would be valuable to join them into one.
I'm gonna make full series on that ;)
It was WAY more interesting than I thought when I first clicked on the video.
And I'm not even a climber :)
This video highlights how important it is to have some know how to catch someone falling properly. I broke my ankle (talas and heel fracture) due to a short snappy fall and I still have issues with my ankle after three years!
imagine if not this newtoon we'd be able to fly now
beautiful video, But we want Banana Hanna!!
i'm joking (maybe...) but i'm really curious about some raw climbing videos of you or Anna. big love from Italy :) (sorry about my english)
Yes, I'm working on my clone machine :D
After watching this clip, you Sir, deserved my subscription.
Nice video and great explanation and illustration of the physics behind kilonewtons and how they fall and stop falling. Some faster, some slower.
Your humor at 10:43 to 10:50 and very slow steady pace of teaching made me subscribe!
YESS I was thinking the whole time about how gravity is just an illusion!! It's all about that warped space-time amiright
Your videos are amazing. Thank you for the great info for the community in a clear, interesting and fun manner.
I appreciate that!
Loved the extra little facts and examples. Funny and informal. 👍
Massive support to your massive works! 🙏💪
Much appreciated!
I’m not a climber, and I’ve only ever done so a few times in my life. I’ve also never even heard of you before this video. However it popes up on my feed and this was one of the most entertaining and educational videos I’ve seen in awhile!
Fantastic video! A physicist here, I once attempted to calculate the force of a fall, basically calculating the change of momentum of the catch, and it is not straightforward and requires a lot of experimental data about the rope, the belay, etc. Glad that someone came up with an approximate equation to estimate the force. Stay safe out there!
Thanks Julia! Yea to many variables in real life makes it hard to model precise - but at the same time it's not really necessary, the belaying will still be similar in most cases :D
@@HardIsEasy yeah I feel like your equation stops making sense for non dynamic ropes like what you explain around 19:10, since as the stretch approximates 0 the force reaches infinity.
This was fun. Great humorous method to explain. Watched it all. Enjoyable.
Wow loved every second a mechanical engineering PhD student. It was amazing how you narrowed down every concept! And the examples were magnific!! I would now love a video on hard vs soft belaying :)
Amazing work thanks so much! I've been wanting to watch such a video for a long time 😊
You're welcome 😊
I love that you're so creative!
Ive never climbed anything more difficult than a staircase; yet i watched this entire video because it was so interesting, entertaining, and expertly explained
Omg I loved this vid! - Was already gripping my interest very well as an amateur climber and lover of science facts (I'm an ecologist), but the fact of weighing less with the moon above you pushed me over the edge into loving it!! haha
You are also weighting less when the moon is at the opposite side.
We love your kind of content and we think its amazing that you explain those things to people😄😄
Amazing explanation of hard stuffs! 🙌🏼🔥
i am not a climber and this video got recommended to me because im a mountain- / downhillbiker.
Knowing the physics on what forces are generated when falling is nice to know. Helps me decide on what risky jumps i take and which ones i skip becaue the risk is just too high because of physics.
So glad I found this channel!
I have no interest in climbing but love to learn from people who are enthusiastic and knowledgeable about their subject. One of your videos was recommended and now I have to watch them all!
I have never had an interest in climbing but damn, I could not help but watch this whole video. Great explaining, even somebody with no prior experience who might also be high (me) could understand quite well.
wasnt expecting to see that graphic from a physics dissertation about the moons gravity in a video about climbing. sick video
that was V-sauce not a dissertation
This was very informative. I have been practicing my lead falls. My fear of falling is getting more manageable. One piece of equipment that I like is my ohm. Keep up the amazing content
Yey thanks and great job on your progress ;)
Thank you so much for all the info, data and fun ! My students will be happy to have a more competent teacher !
Awesome video. Thank you
Your physics are clear and concise. Good job. Thanks for the video.
The takeaway I've learned from this video is 1. Soft gear begins to _significantly_ lose its rating as it ages/wears. 2. I think I can reasonably assume that gear will hold up just fine under static loads, and even appear to still be working to spec under typical low impact dynamic conditions - but when a dynamic situation is greater than usual - that's when I might find out -- I should've replaced that gear. I've got webbing in my life that's at least 30 years old - still works great - as a dog collar, strapping my sleeping bag to my backpack...
I'm a sailor, so all this applies - it's just I'm less likely to be seriously injured or die from a gear failure. This doesn't make it okay. A lot of sailors are replacing metal shackles with Dyneema soft shackles - they're more versatile, easy to make, cheaper, cause less chaffing (to other lines) and don't rattle against the mast all night long. Your video makes it clear that every sailboat with soft shackles in critical places should maybe have a replacement chart right inside the cabin with 'Replacement Dates." I don't think it would be at all difficult to simply remake and then replace all the soft shackles every year. (What I know about splicing Dyneema is the first one takes a lot of time, but quickly it's just a job. (I can see audiobook, an entire day and soft shackles for this year and next.) I also think that unless for some reason space is limited, just use the largest diameter Dyneema I can get for everything. And to reiterate: I am talking sail boats (and hammocks) here, not climbing where the consequences are much more serious.
Great and simple physics lesson, cheers