2005 Toyota Corolla - No Crank No Start - Diagnostic
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- čas přidán 7. 10. 2022
- Learn how to diagnose a no crank, no start on this Toyota vehicle.
Here is a follow up video about intermittent/failing relays:
Testing For Intermittent Relays - 500th Subscriber Special
• Testing For Intermitte...
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Nice show fella. You didn't know and I didn't know. I was feeling it. You did me a service to see a good progression of thought. I was thinking starter motor. You had the answer. The started motor relay.!
Sweeeeet! Great Job!
I’ve been trying to fix my 2007 matrix for days. Watched many videos. Yours was definitely the best one. Starter relay was bad. Thank you mucho!
You're welcome!
2003 corolla, it has the exact same problem. I though it was the starter. I replaced it and still the same issue. Excellent analysis. Thanks a lot!
you end up figuring out?
@@Edweener Yes, I removed the relay, carefully opened up, cleaned the burnt contacts, and it worked again. I have also bought another one on ebay to keep it in my glove box just in case.
@creativechannel6148 was your battery dash light on during your problem? I have this going on also, battery is at 12.6v alternator is good. Just won't crank.
@@perception-receptionNot battery light on the dash, but I replaced it anyway, and the problem was still going on. After watching this video, I removed the old relay, cracked opened it and cleaned the burnt internal contacts, installed again to tested it, and it worked like a charm. Ordered another used one on ebay, and keep it in the glove box until necessary. But still using the old one!
@creativechannel6148 thanks man
Good video and your experience is paying off. Keep it up!
I learned a lot from you brah. You’re pretty awesome. Great work.
Solved my toyota problem thanks very much 😊
Great job my friend... I have learned something new to be aware... relays. Thank you
Thanks for this! Just saved me a ton of money on a tow
Appreciate the video! It was very helpful.
Life saver, THANK YOU
Thank you for posting this, I’ve been having the same problem, I hope it’s that easy of a fix. When you show your troubleshooting it also helps me learn how the systems work. Keep up the good work I really appreciate it!
We’re you able to fix it ?!
Because I am
Having the same issue except the starter tries to but I only hear the starter struggling to get it to turn on
The starter relay failing will mean you get nothing. No clicking, no starter engagement. @@omwpedro
Nice. The control side of the relay worked, so that would explain working signal on scan tool. The power side of relay is was went out. Excellent job diagnosing the problem.
Thanks.
Thanks for the video very helpful and a very great video
keep making them for you are helping so many Bless You Moose!!!
Thank you, I will.
same problem here tried to replace relay it's really a pain the butt thanks for posting this
nice and methodical; thanks.
Nice work, my daughter's car has the no crank issue. Instrument panel lights up and I hear a little click but nothing when you turn key to start.
What was it
Thanks for this video, I had a similar issue that began right after I washed the engine.
You are a good mechanic man... I am thinking of starting my own shop up. Love videos like this, appreciate the work put in. Thanks.
Here is a follow up video about intermittent/failing relays:
Testing For Intermittent Relays - 500th Subscriber Special
czcams.com/video/Misx5GepAS8/video.html
Great job Many thanks!!!!!
Thank you! 😃
Good video.
Thanks for sharing this information! Have this same car and having the same exact issue. No clicking or starter engagement at increasingly random times. Starter is only a few months old and tests good and I'm also getting power, at least when it's working.
Going to replace the now 20 year old starter relay and let you know how it goes! I may as well replace it because I can't afford to be stranded even for a few minutes. 40 bucks and a lifetime warranty better than a 200+ $ tow :)
Let me know how it goes.
FINE BUSINESS!!!
Bro... My Corolla died on me at work a month ago,it wouldn't crank at all. I replaced the starter relay with one from AutoZone but still no start. I checked the connector to the starter for power and it wasn't receiving any. I started believing the key somehow got deprogrammed but that was false, the security light would turn off when the key was inserted. I'm going to order an OEM starter relay and hope it works. I've been stressing like crazy. Thank you for this video so much! I hope I get it to start up without giving in and sending it to the dealership 🙏
I heard the starter relays from Auto Zone have been problematic and don't work. Either a better aftermarket relay or one from Toyota could fix the problem.
Some simple things you could try IF the relay is not the problem:
Make sure the battery and the terminals and cables are in good shape and nothing is loose or corroded. Remove the battery terminals and visually inspect them for breakage or damage. A voltage drop test may be required to check to verify the cables are OK. Depending what your car is doing exactly when you crank it over. Check the main ground cable from the battery to the frame. Make sure there is no rust and that it is not broken or damaged in any way.
Try moving the shifter to neutral while on the brake pedal and shake the shifter a bit while cranking and see if it cranks over. A bad neutral safety switch could be another issue.
If it's a manual transmission check the clutch switch to make sure it's working.
You could also check the ignition switch wiring at the steering column area to make sure that is working properly. Proper powers and grounds, etc.
Also, there has been a TSB for a bad ECM if the check engine light is on with P2716 DTC. Common on most Corolla models if yours hasn't been fixed yet for that problem at the dealer. That problem can also cause a no start issue if it hasn't already been addressed.
Let me know what happens and what you find.
@@moosemobileautorepair I tried putting the car in neutral and starting it but still no crank. The battery is good I had it tested. I also switched out the ignition switch, tested all the fuses. The starter turns over when it's bypassed but the connector to the starter isn't receiving power which makes me go back to the starter relay but it should work since it brand new and I hear the click when I turn the key. I can make a video if you want to see. Again thank you so much for your help I don't know who to ask without losing an arm and a leg. I'm ordering the OEM starter relay 🙏 I'll keep you updated for sure
@@moosemobileautorepair also my starter relay was fried exactly like the one you showed
Good information. Yes, if you bypassed the starting system by manually trying to crank/jumping the starter that would tell you that your starter is okay and something else is wrong in the starting circuit. Good testing and you are on the right track. The best thing to do with problems like this is to have the wiring diagram to figure how the system works and go from there. If evidence shows there is a problem with a part then it should fix the issue that you are having. Hopefully that fixes your problem in the end. Good luck.
The relay from Auto Zone may still click when energized, however it may not be able to maintain sufficient voltage and amperage in the circuit when a load is applied to it. I've heard that the relays from Auto Zone do not work very well.
Hi man, thanks for your video.
I’m having the same issue with my Corolla 2003, but I just replaced the starter relay and got no results.
Also replaced battery, engine starter and checked fuses, they were OK.
I got the same voltage lecture from the engine starter connector (the one in the bottom) as you did, less than 1.0v when switch is ON or crancking the key. So I’m thinking engine starter is not getting power from this connector.
Lecture from the other engine starter connector is OK, 12v from negative of the battery.
What do you think it could be? Any issue with the TVIP ECU? Any advise?
Thanks again man.
If you're not getting power from the starter while cranking, then there is a problem in the starting circuit somewhere. What kind of starter relay brand did you use? Some aftermarket relays have been known to cause problems. Also, if you could check with a test light to check for power in the relay pins where the starter relay goes into and see if there is power for the control and feed side while ignition is on. It may be difficult to reach in there as there is limited space for access. Other things you can check is to make sure the battery terminals are clean and tight and none of them are broken/damaged/loose. I would check all ground cables near the battery to make sure they are OK and possibly do a voltage drop on the positive and ground cables as well. Start with those things first.
change the relay for a 100% American one so you don't have any more problems. Just kidding, thank you very much my friend.
Nice one, thanks.
😅 I was thinking, this is a Toyota after all. Made in the USA does not really apply...lol
I share your frustration at having to diagnose an intermittent problem. I really like the fact you used a test light, which is a tool much less prone to misleading information. The S post should have no voltage until the driver turns the key, closing the relay to send current down to the S post. So I'm a little puzzled at how you measured voltage there even before the key was turned. Maybe you had the test light hooked to bat pos? But if so, the test light should have lit, at least, before turning the key, provided the S post connection to battery was secure. Maybe you had the S post wire disconnected, the test light was hooked to the end of the wire, and the other end of the test light was hooked to bat pos? Or maybe you had the test light connected to the B+ post?
Hey, thanks for the detailed comment. Yes, I was a little stumped as well about that. I had the test light connected to the negative terminal of the battery and the other end to the S terminal at the wiring with the back probe. Usually I know there should be no voltage until the key is in the crank position if everything is OK. Also, at the time when the vehicle was not starting at all it showed voltage whether cranking or not, but the voltage gets pulled down as you have it in the crank position because of a load being applied, but the test light was not lit up. Then afterwards after the vehicle started I was able to get the test light to light up after I got it back on to the driveway and tested it again.
Multi-meters can give you a false diagnosis as it does not detect a load within a circuit like a test light does as we both know that already.
One reason I can probably say about why voltage was being shown even when the vehicle was not in the crank position was because the possibility of the starter relay being shorted out with the other contacts internally causing this problem. But I'm not 100% sure about that, but that is what I think. However, this is the reason why I disconnected the S terminal connector and tested it that way to double check that power was indeed going through the circuit to eliminate the guesswork/that issue that I was having earlier just to be sure with my diagnosis.
The only one way to know for sure about this issue is for me to re-test for voltage at the S terminal again with the good/new relay installed and see if it does the same thing or not. Maybe it's something I could try out for experimental purposes and possibly make a follow up video on it.
When I’m jumped it my starter made grinding noise and at same time my belt squeak and car slowly started . Do I change all alternator belt and starter ?
Those relays always have bad contacts when they have black carbon buildup, will cause intermittent error. If you clean those contacts with sand paper to expose new metal they will work but over time the black buildup will come back and intermittent problem comes back until you clean them again. Everything requires maintenance.
The relay is bad because it's been overheated and the metallurgy has been changed. It needs to be replaced not cleaned. Cleaning it MAY help temporarily if you are stuck somewhere depending on the circumstances. Relays and electrical components are not maintenance items on vehicles you replace them when they go bad.
Can you please tell me if you have any experience at all with the same make and year Toyota Corolla 2005 losing power and stalling out randomly/intermittently? It has happened to me several times of times and we thought it was the ECU witch was replaced recently but I have had that happen twice since replacing the ECU. Could it be possible that this is also a transmission issue or something else?
If the check engine light is not on for P2716 then it's most likely not an issue with the ECM. I would check a few things:
Mass air flow sensor - if you have a scan tool I would monitor the fuel trims and check the mass air flow sensor grams per second and see what it is putting out while driving it especially under heavy loads/acceleration. Sometimes cleaning it may help sometimes it won't. I would check and visually inspect all 4 ignition coils/spark plugs as sometimes they can work intermittently and cause a rough running engine and stalling at times. I would check the fuel pressure and see if the fuel pump is putting out enough pressure. I would also check and possibly scope the crank and cam sensors to see if the signals are good. Lastly, do not replace any parts unless there is evidence that there is a problem with it.
I have the same exact issue in my 2005 Corolla. You mentioned that there are some replacement parts that are not great and may have issues. Do you have any specific recommendations on the best replacement part brand /source to get? Thank you so much!
If you are replacing the relay I would recommend the Toyota OEM part if possible. If not you can use BWD/Standard Motor (SMP) part and that works fine. I used an aftermarket BWD part and still working since making this video so it's been a couple years now.
For starter motors I would recommend the OEM part only as a lot of aftermarket starters don't work very well. Sometimes they don't work at all straight from the box and don't last long. You will end up replacing it shortly thereafter and possibly be stranded as well.
@@moosemobileautorepair Thank you so much. I’m getting it replaced this weekend with the Toyota part. Can you please tell me if you have any experience at all with the same make and year Toyota Corolla 2005 loosing power and stalling out intermittently? It has happened to me several times of times and we thought it was the ECU with was replaced two weeks ago but I have had that happen twice since replacing the ECU. Could it be possible that this is also a starter relay or something else?
I replaced starter relay, it worked once, then same issue again. I took it to the shop and they said it’s the battery (even though I knew the battery was fine). They replaced it and it still doesn’t work.
I would double check for loose connections such as the battery terminals and making sure that the battery terminals are not damaged or broken from corrosion. You may need to remove the terminals to carefully inspect them for breakage. I would also suspect and check for bad/loose grounds if possible. Do the headlights light up nice and bright or do they dim down when you put it in the crank position? I would suspect something in the starting and/or charging circuit. A proper diagnosis will be needed. Verify that the starter relay is a good replacement relay because some relays may not work well straight from the box so double check that too.
Amigo, si esta dañado el carro yano enciende?. Tengo un corolla 2008 y no encendió. Al siguiente día encendió normal y ya lo apague y ya no quiso prender nuevamente
If the engine has a mechanical problem such as if the engine is seized then the starter won't be able to turn the engine over no matter what. But from what you have told me it sounds like a bad starter in most cases.
If it didn't start at first and then started OK afterwards and then didn't start after that most likely the starter is bad as the starter develops a bad or dead spot on the armature windings (commutator) and if it lands on that spot it won't be able to crank the engine over until it moves over to a good spot on the armature/commutator. It's typically caused by wear and tear from usage.
A dead or bad spot on the armature/commutator is caused by excessive heat from usage and wear and tear from the copper or carbon brushes and so therefore will cause a short on those spots which will not have continuity when testing it on the bench when the starter is taken apart.
I'm thinking about buying a new stater but everyone in the comments telling me others wise
You could start with the basics by checking the battery terminals making sure they are not loose and have the battery tested first before condemning the starter. You could carefully jump the starter manually with a test light or screwdriver to see if it cranks. Lastly, you can check for power to see if power is getting to the starter like how I checked it in this video. A proper diagnosis would be needed to check the entire starting system circuit if the starter is bad.
The most common problem on these Corollas are either the starter itself or the starter relay.
We have been hitting the starter just for it to start I think we are messing up up more but thank you soo much with the information
Yeah, you can whack the starter lightly a bit to see if it starts. It might give you a free start a few times before it quits completely if the starter is indeed bad. No problem you're welcome.
Love the troubleshooting process bro. I need to check my starter too. The Rolla is at 170,000 miles.
Update
The starter relay was the problem. It was burnt in the same location as the one you had on the video. Ensure to use genuine Toyota parts. The relays from Autozone and O’Reilly did not work.
Good information. Glad you found the problem. I used the aftermarket Standard Motor relay and no issues so far. The Toyota dealership locally wanted 145.00 CAD which is my discounted cost. Can't go wrong with OEM parts though if you want solid reliability. I was in a situation where I needed a relay badly so I went aftermarket because it was available. The Toyota one was a week away to get.
Also, some OEM suppliers like AC Delco rebrands a lot of stuff and they sell the same exact relay as the Standard Motor one. No difference except the price.
Standard motor makes good parts.
How to remove the relay it's really difficult. Can you help?
Yes, it's very difficult. You would need to wiggle it back and forth very patiently and pull at the same time. You need to wiggle it and work it through to do it. You can also use relay pliers if possible if you're able to fit in there. Let me know how it goes.
You would have to crawl underneath the driver's kick panel and lay down upside down facing up and work it from behind to gain access.
Thanks I will try I ordered an OEM replacement waiting on it.
@@moosemobileautorepairHi moose, I got the part and changed it, and it works great now, it was a pain to remove. Your video explained everything clearly thank you. Keep doing videos like these!!!
@@SeanRohit I'm glad you were able to fix the problem. Thanks for the tip. Will do. I will keep them up.
Fuel pump
This is not a fuel system related issue here. IF it was a dead fuel pump it would cause a crank, no start condition or it would have an extended crank and then start if the fuel pump was weak/had a bad fuel pressure regulator. Weak fuel pumps could also cause the engine to die while driving or cut out at higher speeds. Further diagnosis is required to check the fuel pump such as the pressure, wiring, etc.
In this case the engine is not even running or cranking over so this particular issue was a no crank, no start - this is a starting system issue which is a completely different and separate problem not related to the fuel system at all.
Too slow diagnsis.
It shoild be a 5 min job.
Don't run your mouth and don't be a keyboard warrior or else I will ban you from my channel.
Great video man, thank you for explaining things. I have an '07 Vibe with the 1.8ltr, similar issue, thankfully the relay is easy to get at by pulling off the left AC panel and there it is, rather than go from underneath.
Glad it helped, thanks for the info.
@@moosemobileautorepair I'd like to know where to connect the clip to the starter solenoid to test, every vid I've seen on it hasn't shown where.what. Thank you good Sir!
You can use a backprobe to probe the back of the s terminal connector wire in the back of the connector. The s terminal is the switch for the solenoid which is control by the ignition/key.