I enjoyed your video as usual. I have Scottoilers on two bikes but have since discovered Tutoro oilers. Much easier to fit with no electrical or ,as was, vacuum interventions and on the Classic 350, dare I say it. a much neater and considerably simpler installation. It is a great deal cheaper too. Edward
Hi Edward Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it helpful 👍 Thanks for the info, I’ll have a look at the Tutoro units. As I have Scottoilers on all my bikes don’t think I’ll need one for the foreseeable future though 😁
This is a great video! thank you for sharing Tiger Ness - We've shared it on our socials and will add it to our website of model-specific installation guides! Enjoy your xSystem!!
Been using Scott oil chain lube for 30 years + tried others but if you want your chains to last it’s the best in the business, strangely though have never used the kit, always just bought refill bottles and applied it after a ride the nozzle on the refills is perfect for this, you do get “flick” but easily wiped off, bought 4 refill bottles with me when I moved to France just in case they didn’t do it over here, 😂 my red chrome has 7k up chain still looks like new. …. Pete🇫🇷
Nice video. Like the set up you have with the wiring up of electrical components. May i offer advice and this is not a negative of your work i stress but a good habit when you clip/cleat a cable or in this case the tube for the oil, is to alternate the direction of the clip/cleat. That way the cable or tube cannot pop out all the way along its route. So when you pushed the tube down in to the clip the next one should be pushed up into the clip, the next down into the clip and so on. I know you only had 3 but the principal still stands. You would see what i mean if you were running a cable along a wall for instance over a great distance. Its more secure. Seen you at Powmill 2 weeks ago and was going to say hello but you were busy chatting and i didn't want to interrupt.
Hi Caledonia Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and thanks for your informative comments. If the clips happen to fall off I’ll replace them as you suggest 🤣 Feel free to come over and say hello if you happen to see me at another bike meet up 👍
Hi John Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it helpful 👍 Not many places to fit the unit on this bike. It couldn’t go under the bottom rails as it has to be fitted in a near vertical position. Bonus is it’s easy to get to where it is 🤣
interestingly I chose to fit mine slightly different .The drops from my Scott oiler go onto the sprocket slightly further away from the chain, leaving a bead all the way round and then enter the chain by centrifugal force. I have my little plastic tube trailing or dragging away from sprocket rotation. Not pointing toward movement. Mine actually touches the sprocket and eventually leaves a bright wear mark all the way round. My Scot oiler has a handlebar control with a digital read out and a twin feed each side of sprocket.
Hi M.M. I fitted mine as per the instructions on the Scottoiler website. The Classic 350’s swing arm makes it very difficult to fit it in any other way. Hope you enjoyed the video 👍
@@tigerness5555 mines attached underneath the swinging arm pointing to the rear of the bike and towards the bottom of the sprocket bottom arm, hence I can have it trailing. Easy to make up a bracket.
Great bit of kit for keeping the chain in top condition...TN I fear the next time I see one of your technical videos the backs of your hands will be cut to shreds, go round all these cable ties that you have cut with snips they are lethal a £8 tensioner/cutter leaves the tie flush with no sharp edges...I come from an industry it's a disciplinary case if any ties not flush on an audit.... I have seen some horrible slices on colleagues hands and arms .....only saying 😊....
I might well look into getting one. I come from a background in aviation where we had similar issues with locking wire, and then cable ties when they started to become prevalent. You are right that some nasty cuts and injuries can be the result of not tidying away sharp edges etc.
Hi Old Fella Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it helpful 👍 I’m now suitably chastised, I’ll have a look for a tensioner/cutter, even though I’ve used hundreds of cable ties over the years without a single injury 🤣
Simply ran red and black wires from the wago connectors to the battery. I included an inline fuse in the red live. Used crimped connections at the battery end.
@@tigerness5555so one wire into a block of 5 makes the 4 other connections active and available for accessories, one Wago each for negative and positive. As you say, with a fuse in the positive line to be safe!
Yes I spray my chains once in a while when it looks necessary but probably isn't. These video guys like gadgets and brackets and guards and treatments.. all the marketing junk.
It’s a great bit of kit, fit and forget. I hardly ever have to adjust my chain and it also prolongs its life. I grew up boiling chains in Duckhams Chainguard, I can assure you life’s much easier these days. This is what I’ve done to my bike, each to his or hers own 🤣
Chains create drag which is higher the more heavy duty one you fit so race bikes have lightweight chains. My Jawa has a 428 chain you'd normally see on a 125 despite it being a 350 for the above reason. The chain is fully enclosed so never needs oiling other than factory oil and adjustjents are every 3000 miles or so. I replace the chain after 10,000 miles or so when its well within its limits to preserve the sprockets. Its a quick job done by threading onto the existing chain and pulling it round. A slack chain wears more quickly because of the jerking effect when you on-off power. A tight chain saps power and in extreme cases will wreck the gearbox. Always replace chain if tight spots appear even if theres still adjustment left. Chain tension should be a total up-down travel of 2 inches. If in doubt, err on the side of too slack. And finally, under no circumstances should you ever buy a bike without a mainstand.
Hi Tom I hope you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it helpful 👍 I wish manufacturers would fit fully enclosed chain guards on bikes, they make so much sense. The ones used on old MZ’s I used to have were brilliant and didn’t deter from the looks of the bike.
Export RE 350 and RE 650 should have belt drive like my Sportster has. I get 100,000+ miles out of a belt. Original sprockets that are 25 years old and still good.
Hi Frank Belt drive would be nice to have, so much cleaner and smoother than oily old chains. You can get a belt drive conversion for the 650 Intercepter but not for the Classic 350, it’s also very expensive. Hope you enjoyed the video 👍
Great video…again! It will be interesting to see if those self adhesive clips stay on, hopefully the quality will be such they do. Like you I have lots of accessories running off the battery, so I’ve just ordered some 5 way Wago connectors. What a great little product!
Hi EWAS Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it helpful 👍 So long as the surface is free of any dirt or grease the clips will stay in place ok. They’ve worked on my Tiger for years.
Each to their own, if you like to have peace of mind then why not? I think it’s great that he is prepared to make these videos to help us out. I don’t think a video detailing why you shouldn’t fit one would get many views 🤷🏻♀️
Personally I find that the oiler always keeps the chain properly lubricated, and increases its life. You also don’t seem to have to adjust the chain as often. That’s what I’ve found anyway after many years of use on multiple bikes. Hope you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it helpful 👍
@@tigerness5555 your content is always well done, informative and entertaining. I learn tons from you and trust your reviews/ opinion. Keep up the good work.
I enjoyed your video as usual. I have Scottoilers on two bikes but have since discovered Tutoro oilers. Much easier to fit with no electrical or ,as was, vacuum interventions and on the Classic 350, dare I say it. a much neater and considerably simpler installation. It is a great deal cheaper too. Edward
Hi Edward
Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it helpful 👍
Thanks for the info, I’ll have a look at the Tutoro units. As I have Scottoilers on all my bikes don’t think I’ll need one for the foreseeable future though 😁
This is a great video! thank you for sharing Tiger Ness - We've shared it on our socials and will add it to our website of model-specific installation guides! Enjoy your xSystem!!
Great to hear that you enjoyed my video, feel free to share it 👍
Another nice job well done.
Thank you, great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it helpful 👍
Been using Scott oil chain lube for 30 years + tried others but if you want your chains to last it’s the best in the business, strangely though have never used the kit, always just bought refill bottles and applied it after a ride the nozzle on the refills is perfect for this, you do get “flick” but easily wiped off, bought 4 refill bottles with me when I moved to France just in case they didn’t do it over here, 😂 my red chrome has 7k up chain still looks like new. …. Pete🇫🇷
Hope you enjoyed the video. Yes, Scottoiler oil is excellent stuff, definitely lengthens the life of the chain. 👍
Another useful video, thanks.
Thank you
Great to hear that you enjoyed the video 😁👍
Interesting wee video. Scottoilers have certainly come on leaps and bounds from the first Generation.
They certainly have, so much better than the original vacuum units.
Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it helpful 👍
Nice tutorial,definitely they have made serious modifications to to their oiler,possibly the best on the market aint cheap but quality none the less.
Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it helpful 👍
Nice video. Like the set up you have with the wiring up of electrical components. May i offer advice and this is not a negative of your work i stress but a good habit when you clip/cleat a cable or in this case the tube for the oil, is to alternate the direction of the clip/cleat. That way the cable or tube cannot pop out all the way along its route. So when you pushed the tube down in to the clip the next one should be pushed up into the clip, the next down into the clip and so on. I know you only had 3 but the principal still stands. You would see what i mean if you were running a cable along a wall for instance over a great distance. Its more secure. Seen you at Powmill 2 weeks ago and was going to say hello but you were busy chatting and i didn't want to interrupt.
Hi Caledonia
Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and thanks for your informative comments. If the clips happen to fall off I’ll replace them as you suggest 🤣
Feel free to come over and say hello if you happen to see me at another bike meet up 👍
Very useful smart tech to lubilising chain
Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it helpful 👍
good tutorial cheers
Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it helpful 👍
Geez even that’s a technical bit o kit.😊
Was at Shirlaws last week, and young lad had a cbr 125. Doubt his chain , had seen any treatment since new😅.
😂
Hi Mark
It’s actually a very simply bit of kit which just works really well. Scottoiler has a cheaper vacuum unit but I much prefer this one.
Great fit up, such a shame it couldn't be fitted out of sight maybe underneath the bottom frame rails?
Hi John
Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it helpful 👍
Not many places to fit the unit on this bike. It couldn’t go under the bottom rails as it has to be fitted in a near vertical position. Bonus is it’s easy to get to where it is 🤣
interestingly I chose to fit mine slightly different .The drops from my Scott oiler go onto the sprocket slightly further away from the chain, leaving a bead all the way round and then enter the chain by centrifugal force. I have my little plastic tube trailing or dragging away from sprocket rotation. Not pointing toward movement. Mine actually touches the sprocket and eventually leaves a bright wear mark all the way round. My Scot oiler has a handlebar control with a digital read out and a twin feed each side of sprocket.
Hi M.M.
I fitted mine as per the instructions on the Scottoiler website. The Classic 350’s swing arm makes it very difficult to fit it in any other way. Hope you enjoyed the video 👍
@@tigerness5555 mines attached underneath the swinging arm pointing to the rear of the bike and towards the bottom of the sprocket bottom arm, hence I can have it trailing. Easy to make up a bracket.
Great bit of kit for keeping the chain in top condition...TN I fear the next time I see one of your technical videos the backs of your hands will be cut to shreds, go round all these cable ties that you have cut with snips they are lethal a £8 tensioner/cutter leaves the tie flush with no sharp edges...I come from an industry it's a disciplinary case if any ties not flush on an audit.... I have seen some horrible slices on colleagues hands and arms .....only saying 😊....
I might well look into getting one. I come from a background in aviation where we had similar issues with locking wire, and then cable ties when they started to become prevalent. You are right that some nasty cuts and injuries can be the result of not tidying away sharp edges etc.
Hi Old Fella
Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it helpful 👍
I’m now suitably chastised, I’ll have a look for a tensioner/cutter, even though I’ve used hundreds of cable ties over the years without a single injury 🤣
Just a quick supplemental question if I may, how did you connect your Wago connectors to the battery?
Simply ran red and black wires from the wago connectors to the battery. I included an inline fuse in the red live. Used crimped connections at the battery end.
@@tigerness5555so one wire into a block of 5 makes the 4 other connections active and available for accessories, one Wago each for negative and positive. As you say, with a fuse in the positive line to be safe!
Yes that is correct 👍
In this day and age with o’ring chains and simple chain lube , why. 35 years ago maybe. We also use to boil chains in grease.
Yes I spray my chains once in a while when it looks necessary but probably isn't. These video guys like gadgets and brackets and guards and treatments.. all the marketing junk.
It’s a great bit of kit, fit and forget. I hardly ever have to adjust my chain and it also prolongs its life.
I grew up boiling chains in Duckhams Chainguard, I can assure you life’s much easier these days.
This is what I’ve done to my bike, each to his or hers own 🤣
Chains create drag which is higher the more heavy duty one you fit so race bikes have lightweight chains.
My Jawa has a 428 chain you'd normally see on a 125 despite it being a 350 for the above reason.
The chain is fully enclosed so never needs oiling other than factory oil and adjustjents are every 3000 miles or so.
I replace the chain after 10,000 miles or so when its well within its limits to preserve the sprockets.
Its a quick job done by threading onto the existing chain and pulling it round.
A slack chain wears more quickly because of the jerking effect when you on-off power.
A tight chain saps power and in extreme cases will wreck the gearbox.
Always replace chain if tight spots appear even if theres still adjustment left.
Chain tension should be a total up-down travel of 2 inches.
If in doubt, err on the side of too slack.
And finally, under no circumstances should you ever buy a bike without a mainstand.
Hi Tom
I hope you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it helpful 👍
I wish manufacturers would fit fully enclosed chain guards on bikes, they make so much sense.
The ones used on old MZ’s I used to have were brilliant and didn’t deter from the looks of the bike.
Question: why did they get rid of the fully enclosed chain gard?
I didn’t, this is the standard item. These bikes do not have a fully enclosed chain guard.
Hope you enjoyed the video 👍
Export RE 350 and RE 650 should have belt drive like my Sportster has. I get 100,000+ miles out of a belt. Original sprockets that are 25 years old and still good.
Hi Frank
Belt drive would be nice to have, so much cleaner and smoother than oily old chains. You can get a belt drive conversion for the 650 Intercepter but not for the Classic 350, it’s also very expensive.
Hope you enjoyed the video 👍
Great video…again! It will be interesting to see if those self adhesive clips stay on, hopefully the quality will be such they do.
Like you I have lots of accessories running off the battery, so I’ve just ordered some 5 way Wago connectors. What a great little product!
Hi EWAS
Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it helpful 👍
So long as the surface is free of any dirt or grease the clips will stay in place ok. They’ve worked on my Tiger for years.
I also bought a used bike but its heating very much...
Great to hear that you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it helpful 👍
Not sure what you mean about your bike overheating ?
Good video as usual.
No offense but a useless thing considering cleaning and lubing a chain every 500 miles takes 10 minutes.
Each to their own, if you like to have peace of mind then why not? I think it’s great that he is prepared to make these videos to help us out. I don’t think a video detailing why you shouldn’t fit one would get many views 🤷🏻♀️
@@EWAScotland aye. I certainly have gotten many excellent tutorials on his channel.
Personally I find that the oiler always keeps the chain properly lubricated, and increases its life. You also don’t seem to have to adjust the chain as often.
That’s what I’ve found anyway after many years of use on multiple bikes.
Hope you enjoyed the video and hopefully found it helpful 👍
@@tigerness5555 your content is always well done, informative and entertaining. I learn tons from you and trust your reviews/ opinion.
Keep up the good work.