MRP 4AGE trigger wheel kit UNBOXING - solid pulley vs harmonic dampener #1
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- www.mrpltd.co.nz/
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Today I'm unboxing a really nice and useful product from Manon Racing Products for my 4AGE engine. If you know my 4AGE engine build in my Toyota MR2 mk1 you already know what I have a trigger wheel kit in my car which is based around my Techno Toy Tuning solid crankshaft pulley.
My current setup is working well but I want to do something end the debate between solid crankshaft pulleys vs harmonic dampeners. And this is where the MRP 4age trigger wheel kit comes into play.
#d4a #mrp #4age
You are an authority tho, you are the only aw11 youtube guy & you have helped a lot of owners fix these cars!
Thank you!
nobody:
4AGE engine ignition:
I'M TRIGGERED !
hi bro great videos always watch them as its uploaded much respect to the channel from the caribbean!!!!
Yes! I have been dreaming that you would do this. I never asked because I figured you weren't as crazy anal about this type of testing as I am. I ALWAYS KEEP MY MOUTH SHUT, UNTIL I HAVE DATA TO BACK ME UP. Keep up the good work. If I wasn't so broke from my 2 current 1nz-fe builds, and k24 (on the back burner), and 4age (on the back back burner), I would send you money to support the channel. Thank you, thank you! This is my kind of project. But please remember, a good (not oem) oil pressure gauge should be the first item on an engine build list. Also oil temp can be an amazing diagnostic tool, just dive into the decades of info regarding high performance air-cooled VWs.
Eagerly waiting...
I find in my supra my oil pressure will drop slightly as the oil gets more mileage on it, then refreshes on a new change. It is only about 5psi at redline, around 90 down to 85 psi but it is very predictable. You should ask MRP to sponsor you one of their custom fluid pulleys and do a test with that vs the solid ally one :D
Great idea. Love how you are uploading good content frequently. To have a accurate test of the data, shouldn't you replace the. Bearings for testing both pulleys. The lightweight from ttt was put in after 30 years of use so, might not be a fair comparison. Think a lot of the comments have good suggestions. Anyway good luck
Def sounds like a lot of work, but will be really cool! Make sure you use the same oil just to minimize variables. If you have the option, sending your oil out for analyses would be another great data set!
The real question is, how much damping effect is left in a 20-30 years old rubber? I suppose that the solid pulley won't do much more harm than our damper with petrified rubber
This will be a very interesting experiment.
However, there is something I'm worried that might affect the collected data from the solid pulley setup.
Was the engine rebuilt with new wear parts, as the bearings and oil pump? Was the solid pulley run with the engine from the beginning after rebuild? How many miles have you run the engine since the rebuild?
It may look like insignificant variables, but no variable is insignificant in an experiment like the one you'll do. Results would be inconclusive, at best, or biased, at worst.
Just something to keep in mind.
And since this is a 4A-GE related video, I'd like to share my idea of a Frankenstein A engine: 7A bottom end and rotating assembly with 20 valve low compression pistons, 20 valve 4A head with better ITBs, forced induction with an SC14 supercharger. Dream engine setup for a "Over Rev!" AW11 MR-2 tribute car.
Good points on the data! Yes, engine was fully rebuilt with absolutely everything new. Ran with solid pulley from start and did a few thousand miles so far. I have the exact number but I'll need to find the pic of the starting mileage. Your engine sounds top notch!
Jose Rivera Nice build idea. Pretty sure 7afe block / crank has a CPS included, I was actually toying with the idea of switching to a 7afe block and newer ecu if I have any rod issues or any problems with my pistons. I currently have a bigport engine.
heres what is the rubber ring is supposed to do, its supposed to dampen the varying torque that is going to the alternator to prevent belt slipping. if you have dual row pulleys you will see that the ac pulley is not dampened. just the alternator. this only applies to the 4AGE as far as i know of. meaning I don't know what other engines do what.
that sounds like a lot of work
The oem pull is more to take the snatch out if the belt than anything . A well balanced solid pull shouldn't cause vibration it's attaching a belt and running a water pump & alternator off it the causes the vibration .I noticed that my engine was losing pressure when driven hard & the engine was hot so fitted a extra oil cooler & oil pressure doesn't drop
I’ve been looking at getting a whole new crank pulley. Mine has a couple of notches off it. Like it’s been chipped off. Maybe dropped a couple times. Or maybe also it’s just the oem timing marks. Idk. But also I’m not using the ac so I’ve been thinking if getting a aftermarket one. My 4agze had one and felt nice
Is there a part 2 for this?
Cool
Curious to see how this goes regarding timing. I can imagine problems with the possibility of inaccurate timing if the inner part of the crank pulley slips on the crank.
witht the oil pump being that close to a main journal, the crank would be quite supported no? and anything about it being a flatplane crank and a good blanced rotating mass?
All of that is true, but apparently the undampened vibrations will still cause noticeable damage over time.
I got this insane idea putting 20valve 4AGE engine into my CRX 😄i bet that gets ppl triggered.
Can you help
I'm looking at a harmonically balanced ross oversized Crank pulley for my 4agze from Mrp, are they really worth it and will it make much difference?.
Are they well made?
Thanks Louis
Ok? What did you find? What sort of damage did you find if any?
Can help me with my 4age 16-valve. I want to put ITBS on my engine wha do I need to get let me know
WTH no rap??? Think spring
Hahaha, rap is only on the Iconic engines series. I would feel kinda stupid raping about a trigger wheel, my rap is cringey enough as it is 😂
so did you learn anything out of this solid vs damper pulley? would love to know
Where do you live "Driving 4 Answers" ? The place is looking familiar to me...
Is the next part of the video out?
Hey D4A! Any update on this experiement?
Sorry D4a i know its been a long time you made this video but i want to know what about the drop in oil pression did the solid crank pulley use something or break the oil pump ? Thank sir :)
The solid pulley is still on the car. Total 2800km so far. No drop in oil pressure so far.
Good news than its was just your cluster gauge that was missing around :p
what happen to the suzuki
Too late the damage is done. Adding the damper now can't undo the damage and magically repair the bearings.
How does the trigger plate adapter mount to the stock crank pulley?
Once you have done the machining you just put it in there and bolt it down with the provided bolts. The stock pulley has threads in it already from factory, they are used for removing the pulley.
@@d4a so with the added adapter plate and mounting hardware won't the rotating assembly need to be balanced again to mitigate any further harmonics?
First =o
Need a 4Age
Do you honestly think the engineer's that designed the Toyota harmonic crankshaft balancer were total idiot's !
Im pretty sure they done tons of research and testing before producing the design they came up with .
All their research and testing is why the 1.6 engine has a reputation of being bullet proof if maintained properly !
That little portion of rubber sandwiched between those two piece of metal is there for a reason .
( VIBRATION = DESTRUCTION )
In no part of this video have I said or even implied that the stock design is no good or that anyone is an idiot. The point of all of this is to see whether solid pulleys do damage and if yes what kind and how much. I think I really couldn't have explained it more clearly. Also, the 4age stock crankshaft pulley is definitely not a balancer of any kind, just a dampener.
What you failed to realize is that original pulleys are cast w some machining done afterwards. Translation: they’re not perfect. That’s why the harmonic dampener exists. To dampen the harmonics created by the imperfect pulleys. A fully machined pulley is perfect (within 1 or 2 thousands of an inch) so you don’t need any dampener of any kind because it doesn’t generate any harmonics. Another thing you fail to realize is that you’re dreaming if you think any harmonics are being dampened by that rusty dried out piece of rubber. The stock rusty pulleys are way more destructive than any machined piece that you can buy. There are more reasons to go with machined aftermarket pulleys I could go on and on..
The pulley itself doesn't create harmonics. The crankshaft does. I'm doing this precisely to stop claims such as " old stock pulleys do more damage" being presented as fact. The goal of this experiment is to reveal exactly what actually happens, if stock pulleys are useless when they're old, and if solid pulleys are "perfect" as you say, than we will see this in the results. Without verified empirical proof there are no facts, just guessing, assumptions and heresay.
driving 4 answers thanks for the reply. You’re efforts are appreciated. I wasn’t really arguing against or for you. If you keep the same crankshaft and same engine internals, a machined piece of aluminum or steel will have less vibration than cast (or mass manufactured) parts, period. By that logic, it is true that old rusty pulleys are “more destructive” than aftermarket pulleys BUT the the truth is all of them work anyway. I think people on the internet make this a bigger deal than it has to be. This is only a real issue with high power cars and they all use machined pieces anyway. Regardless, I can’t wait for the future videos. I’ll be tuning it ☺️
um, even if the pulleys are imperfect, you do realize the most vibration that is generated is literally from the pistons going up and down right. a fully counter weighted crank doesnt do anything about the secondary forces in an inline 4.. vibration does equal destruction. to some extent. have you been in a car that doesnt vibrate? what about diesels?
Haha, wet dreams, come clean