HOW TO build an ENGINE block for BOOST + detailed COST breakdown - PROJECT UNDERDOG #11
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- čas přidán 23. 10. 2021
- All the parts:
Stock 2nd 4AFE 7 rib engine block
Teardown video: • ENGINE TEARDOWN and AN...
OEM 4AGE late bigport and 20v Toyota crankshaft. Part no: 13401 - 16020
MRP reinforcement caps: www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/4age...
OEM 4AGZE low compression 8:1 semi forged pistons. 0.5 oversize
www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/4agz...
Part no: 13103 - 16100
Related video: • What are SEMI FORGED P...
MaXpeedingRods connecting rods: www.maxpeedingrods.com/produc...
Related video: • UNBOXING budget forged...
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King racing rod bearings:
amzn.to/3EayxDd
King racing main bearings:
shop.battlegarage-rs.com/prod...
ARP 203-5403 main studs
amzn.to/3EcjIjK
A strong engine block is the foundation of every powerful and long lived turbocharged engine and today I'm going to show you in detail the process of building the engine block that I will be using in my turbocharged engine. Addtionally we'll be addiing up the costs of all the elements in the build to see exactly how much a strong, fully machined engine block with all new parts costs. Also links to all the parts you will see in this video are in the description.
The engine I'm building is a modest 1.6 liter Toyota 4AFE whose power output I'm planning to triple by turbocharging it. The planned application is street and track driving which means that this an enthusiast level build and has such a budget.
As I didn't want to remove the existing engine from my car in the interest of keeping it on the road for as much as possible I decided to buy a junkyard engine and build it. Obviously the first step towards building a block is to completely dissemble the engine and the engine block and remove all the internals from the engine block.
As you can see we are working with a pretty old school closed deck cast iron engine block. Although cast iron blocks are heavier than their aluminum counterparts they are a good choice for turbo builds due to their increased strength and rigidity which requires no or minimal reinforcement to cope with high amounts of boost.
Once the block is dissembled the next step I have taken is to do all the necessary machining. And this includes boring and honing the cylinders for 0.5mm oversize pistons and decking the block to achieve a perfectly flat surface for the head gasket.
Another type of machining that is often done is align honing which looks like this. This ensures that all the main bearing tunnels are of equal size and in perfect alignment with each other . Although many machine shops in my are offer this service I decided against doing it because all of my main bearing tunnels were within spec. align honing is good practice but it requires a lot of operator skill and all the tools to be equally worn. I have seen some negative experiences from align honing that unfortunately did more harm than good so after taking into account my current measurements and the difficulty of finding Toyota 4A blocks I decided to not take chances and leave things as they are.
I also machined the block to allow the fitment of oil squirters. This not something that is typically done and it did create some minor damage on the block which needed to be welded up but more on this later.
After all the machining is complete I decided to remove all the loose surface rust on the block to prepare it for painting later on. But what's much more important than rust on the outside is cleanliness on the inside. The block will be full of metal shavings and dust after machining as well as grime and other debris from previous engine operation. This is why cleaning the engine block as thoroughly as possible is incredibly important for any engine build. Any metal shavings or other foreign matter left inside the block can cause engine damage and ruin your investment. I cleaned the block by spraying gasoline under pressure into every nook and cranny. Gasoline is a good solvent and helps remove old oil gunk and grime and it also flushes out metal particles. It is especially important to clean every engine oil passageway. These can be found at the oil filter location, at all the main bearings, as well as inside the block going to the cylinder head.
Another extremely important area to clean is the main oil gallery. In my case it's even more important because I have drilled holes and cut threads into the main oil gallery resulting in a massive amount of metal shavings inside it.
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#d4a #projectunderdog #engineblock - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Check out www.mrpltd.co.nz/ for most of the parts you see in this build
Become a Tuning Pro: hpcdmy.co/dr4a
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Thanks, I'm interested to know what process you're using to determine what alternatives there are compared to stock parts from the Toyota Electronics Parts Catalog? For example how did you determine that this 4AGE crankshaft is compatible with the 4AFE engine. How do you find companies like MRPLTD, and what criteria do you use to determine if their parts are of reasonable quality?
Great video as always!
I'm curious, did the shop rebalance the rotating assembly after notching the pistons for the oil squirters?
While it's not a lot of material removed, I'd worry it's significant enough to require rebalancing.
Hello, what is the thread on those banjo bolts for the piston squirters please? I have modified a Ford Pinto block and fitted a set squirters to it, but I would prefer to use valved banjo's instead of the straight through ones.
@@kingcosworth2643 I wish you asked before, they're in now with loctite and I can't check any more. Sorry. But you can use the part number and order one from Toyota to test?
@@d4a That sounds good, have you the part number, or now where I could find it, thanks!
Awesome video! As an engineer, I highly appreciate all the specifications displayed on the screen as well as your reasoning for choosing particular products and solutions for your needs. Even though I don't understand half of it.
While I'm not an engineer, i found myself with far fewer questions at the end of this video than any other DIY guys out there. i don't think i yelled at the screen once hahaha
exceptional content, definitely a new favorite Toober
Honestly, $2000 USD is cheap for a build with this much detail. Amazing work! I think 300HP will be no issue for this engine.
Let's hope so! Don't jinx me 😂
A stock block can handle 300hp
@@kensmechanicalaffair that’s what I thought
@@kensmechanicalaffair For how long though?
@@BigUriel Forever, lol.
I usually paint the block any color but black so that any leaks are easier to identify. Great to see a vid of him actually doing something instead of a white board.
Super exciting to see this engine build finally coming together! Can't wait for the first test drive video!! Awesome work, D4A! Love your content.
When we built the last complete engine I did, the biggest thing was having a plan in place & following it. The engine, a Buick 3.8L/Series II, is on Ward's list of best engines. Machining was fully done, used ARP attaching hardware kits (both stud & bolt). Factory rods are powder metal forged units, Mahle pistons with better ring sizes & longer skirts. Cometic headgaskets. Intercooler (water-to-air). Eliminated the CR balance shaft, Closes double roller chain & tensioner. Upgraded oil pump. It's been 8+ years and it has had exactly 0 hiccups.
Supercharged?
3.8 series 2 is on my list of worst engines
Yo, I’m looking at building a V6 ecotec for my Vs holden statesman, I’m looking at getting around 500-600hp capable of handling an aftermarket supercharger? Easy you reckon or what?
So like.. this channel gives me engineering explain vibes, but it a waaaaay more digestible format, you’ve earned yourself a sub!
13:10... this is what I did with my Chevy Ecotec build I have never had any issues after notching for my oil squirters
14:40... as long as your mains measure 0.0005 within tolerance you do not need to align hone...for main studs...
hold on. you didnt mention about balancing the piston weights after you added the notch. i hope you did it without mentioning. this build reminds me about my very first engine build but i did N/A 4A-F. a mechanic helped me to torque down and assemble it back to the car. it was such a struggle to tune the engine since i use 4A-GE pistons but managed to make it runs smooth and torquey. what an experience for a mid-schooler me lol
He balanced the pistons when they arrived and its only a small notch. I'd say they'd still be within 1 gram of each other which for 6000rpm will be fine.
If you're going 11,000 then maybe balance them better....
@@1one3_Racing i see. thanks!
Not recommended..
My ONLY concern was when modifying the piston skirt to clear the oil squirters. .. there appeared to be some sharp edges. I hope you rounded those off to prevent stress risers. . .
Definitely did that, I just couldn't shoot everything. I was drowning in footage as it is 😂
@Mr T the owner wont like the stress if the bore scratched to hell
@Mr T the ones on my hand? just a cute night lamp
@Mr T HAHAHAHAH
@Mr T i dont mind being gae tbh. i like cute girls
For increased reliability use full groove main bearings, this guarantees 360 degrees of oil supply to the big end bearings and reduces pulsation in the oil supply to the bearings.
Did you balance the rotating assembly? Especially the pistons after notching them for oil squirter clearance?
please answer this cause it really bothers me :)
Piston balancing is very important..to gring it like this make the engine vibrate on high rpm.
fr idk why he didnt just rotate the oil squirters.
if you reduce just a small amount from the skirts it will not impact weight much. In this case he will do all 4 equally. I hope he answers your question. What I wonder is if he dynamically balanced the rotating assembly.
@@Mwhbmnabjms Especially a 4 cylinder.
I was searching for a channel exactly like this for years, i found you trough instagram initially.
Thank you for your always enjoyable and especially never boring explanations! Keep up the good work!
I love the idea of this video, not only is it enjoyable to watch an engine being rebuilt and upgraded, but I like learning so much from clearly knowledgeable person and not a rambling idiot talking too quickly
Awesome to see the build coming together! You must be getting excited seeing all these parts actually going into the block!
This was tremendous. Best engine build video I've come across thus far. Your level of detail and explanations are unmatched in my experience.
I cannot stress what a great and educational channel this is, thank you so much for your videos, this is genuinely verging on a free engineering course. ❤️ Love and respect from Malta.
Badassery happening on this channel! Doing things legit is ALWAYS the way to go if you don't want to end up just another MEME. Keep up the awesome work!
So good job full of details. I am so excited for this build. Can't wait to see it fires up. Go go go.
I’m so excited for this build, this will be an inspiration for me for when I build my own.
“Getting the block clean will make you dirty” 😎, your videos just keep getting better, thanks.
Looks great! Every boy's dream of building a powerful engine. Love your detail, as per usual. Gotta say though, I find you're very adventurous for adding on those oil squirters and notching your pistons for clearance! Not something I would have the guts to do but I'm very impressed by your intuition.
Very excited to see it all come together! I can't wait to see the smile on your first track day😎
I can't explain to you how happy I am for your content, there are so many youtubers one here who act like immature clown fools when explaining cars, they goof around like we have time for all the bs entertainment and foul language, so many young hipster trendy foolish behavior, I don't have time for them, its a refreshing experience for your channel, Thank You
im so exited for you project mate! keep it going, i await for more detailed shoots!
Great vid and explain. Also it's very good that you show us the parts & costs. Thanks. Up to the next
So cool ! I can't wait to see more, your built is finally comming together ! :D
Also, it's nice to see the cost because it's not over the moon and with some saving, might be possible to do one, one day :)
I like this built ❤ it's always nice to see someone using f-head for performance purposes 💪
You are awesome. The content you are creating helps someone like me in understanding engines better. Thank You. Keep it up. Subscribed.
Seeing a 4AFE (I drive a bone stock T19 Lean Burn Carina) and an Insize calliper (one of my most frequently used tools) made me feel wholesome :) Great project! Love the humble Toyota four bangers!
All your videos are highly informative and educational.
Sometimes I'm thinking what these guys do for a living and how they have so much time to spend on such builds. Do they have a family, a mad girlfriend, like wtf? Super happy to see someone put the time and effort, great job!!!
Girlfriend? Your car is your girlfriend.
He does have a family. Just an incredibly hard worker!
Some guys decide to spend more time in the garage due to a girlfirend or wife.
Awesome bro, love what you did with the 4afe block and the adding of the oil squirts, block came out boss man
I use to have a strong 4afe normal aspirated In a Toyota conquest body many moons ago
Great stuff! Looking forward to see what this beast can do. 👍
Terrific and thoughtful presentation! Thank you!
It's always best practice to align hone when changing to studs or adding something like main girdles. Hopefully you don't get any distortion in the block.
Good luck with the rest of the build!
Always great content. We appreciate you 🙏
That's very exciting and of course, informative!
I can’t wait to see it running !!
Man im hyped up thx for making this video!
Loved the video, great job, very detailed and informative. Thanks :)
Thank you for the great content. It's educating and enlightening. Spasiba!!
Man, how did I only just find this channel, this is great.
Awesome vid. Thanks also that you show us the costs. Love it
When it time for the first startup plenty of us would like to see it live!
Snap ring orientation explanation was cool , learned something today.
Exiting stuff, keep us posted!
Brilliant video...keep them coming 👏
Amazing video, very educational 👌🏿👌🏿👌🏿
Excellent video Bro. Keep it up.
This video was very informative
Its also a good idea to start with a block that has enough rigidity designed in. A block that was never designed with higher horsepower/kw output in mind is not going to take well to forced induction.
One good reason for align honing the main bearing bores is to ensure that they have a common centerline. Your bearing bores may be in spec size wise but there is also a tolerance for alignment.
Dude, you got that Slav squat on point!
Very good. Ready for the BOOST!
Thanks for this incredibly useful video!
This was fantastic! I find myself wishing there was more! Exceptional content, and your accent is also quite entertaining, my wife loves it haha
please continue to fulfill the what, where, why, & how as you did in this DIY. the "when" doesn't seem so necessary. seriously though I have to give credit where credit is due... im not sure if you recited any of this but the execution is superb. Articulated in a very easy to comprehend approach and enough details to answer many questions i have in my head while watching but not too much where it takes away from the point. very educational for the Noobsies and professionally delivered in a manner i didn't mind following along when it was a subject ive probably heard a million times now hahaha very well done sir! you have an appreciative fan here looking forward to the next!
Very nicely detailed step by step on building the engine block. What process was used for the block weld repair, and why was it necessary?
Cylinder heads usually require the most attention. Can also be very complicated as well unless you stay with standard.
Good Job there is many thing to think of when use a block not ment for the power you make. Look forward to see it finish and tuned on Dyno. Thanks for uplode.
Love it bro , awesome vid
Awesome video, thank you 👍
for me. it was extremely well balanced, no stroker, stock rods and pistons{.080 over} and headwork done by a specialist. then not touching anything without asking the tuner first. reliable as hell.
Man this is a really well made video.
This is gonna be a great build in the end
Interesting! And nice project ! :)
Legend says he is still cleaning that engine block to this very day
Thanks for all your tutorials. Did you chemically clean the coolant passages in the block? Scale is an effective insulator. More important for the head but significant for the block none the less. Hydrochloric acid works a treat in cast iron blocks.
I love this channel. Thank you :P
This made my day
Great fun old Toyotas I love the way there's so many interchangeable parts with different engine's & cars throughout the range in the 80s-90s my old mr2 mk1 fitted with supercharged engine also fitted a bigger supercharger from a different model can't remember which then found that gt4 st165 brakes fitted was a track weapon
This is going to be fun to watch :-)
Worth a mention here, the thickness of the wrist pin is critical to a good build. I run .200 wall pins and even .250 wall pins on 1000+ hp 2jz engines. Its a lot of added weight but the piston isn't strong enough to support itself and a flexing pin.
Beautiful, Beautiful!
Did you balanced rods ,pins and pistons, especially after doing that pistons mod. Love your channel!!!
We checked the weights, all were within 1 gram so we left them alone.
You make this look so easy to do lol Making me wanna upgrade / build my 1.4L engine
Great vid, thank you.
This is awesome, I did the same as you with a 3SFE, with maxpeeding rods, 3sgte pistons and crankshaft with arp, my isn’t done yet, i need to machine the head because a high compression, the 3SFE look too similar to the 4afe.
I wish I had you knowledge I’d be working on engines right now :)
Nice stuff I would love to hear numbers and calculations about expected torque the components resistance... ECT
Superb video.
Awesome video as usual! Quick question. Isn’t it necessary to line hone when using ARP studs on the main caps? In my case (VW 1.8t 20v) I decided against ARP because the increasing load you are supposed to use on the bolts meant a line hone was necessary and hated the idea the same as you.
A real world self build engine, all be it, by someone with good knowledge.
Good price for bore, hone and decking, I charge €500 for a four cylinder 🙂👌
You could put some custom spacers between block and nozzles to get more clearance from piston
But then they would hit the crankshaft
Wow thanks for al the use full information!
Im building a 7age engine(also turbo charging it) and happen to have almost the same setup you are using! 4agze pistons with max speeding rods 😂💪🏻. I assume i can use most of the modifications you use and i think im gonna use your video as a base line for my build! Just waiting for a crank sprocket to correct the timing for the conversion and then i can start building 💪🏻
Great info...thank u
Where are you from dude, that pretvarač hrđe is very familiar...
Some great info here
Forged Pistons run cooler so people say you don't need squirters and delete them. I think it's still a good idea. They still cool and lubricate the pistons no matter what material they are. With squirters and Turbo oil feed, you just have to make sure you have a good oil pump or modified oem pump.
I am looking to build my 96 4AFE Corolla with a SC 12 supercharger using as many stock parts as I possibly can. I do have a SC 12 intake manifold as a template because the fourAFE is drastically different. So that will need to be custom-made. And I’m doing this just to see how we can handle boost. My second plan is to Frankenstein a manual 2AR Out of a sion TC into my 96 rolla lol
subscribed . good job
One of best engines ever made.. Bever stop..
What he says about the gudgeon pin snap rings when it comes to installation orientation is one of thos things you really do need to check/do. A friends Yamaha Raptor seized and upon pulling it down what had happened is that both those snap rings would of been installed sideways (one still was) and one had snapped in half causing the gudgeon pin to slide to one side and out of the boss in the piston. The remaining boss couldn't cope and broke so the pin got pulled out of the bottom of the piston and as one would imagine. If you install those pins sideways and run the motor at high revs, the snap rings will eventually fatigue and snap.
nice build
hi. I use to have a similar hole at my engine block. After assembling the engine I found out it is leaking oil from weld work. Only solution was a RTV layer covered whit clingerit ( gasket material). To weld it again you should make the engine a parts.
boost is pricey!
but info given here is priceless!
Me and you are aligned. But I'm actually doing the turbo on the 4AGE. I'm using the MRP turbo kit from New Zealand, and a Borg Warner 6258 efr. Thank you for showing the oil squirters machined in, I really didn't know how I would get those in. I was considering just using e85 to cool the Pistons but now I might be able to get away with just using oil squirters
why not Garrett turbo? i heard Borg Wargner turbos are not good quality
Some 4AGE blocks come with oil squirters from the factory…especially the later model ones (some 7 rib, not all).
Great work on your videos!I really enjoy your build . I have a question regarding the 7a block decking. How much did you have to take of to use the 4ag crankshaft considering it has less stroke ? Those blocks are really cheap in my area too 🙂.
My bad... I thought of 7a... you are doing a 4A block !!! Sorry. Again great work on your videos !
great commentary.
About 20 years ago we raced a stock block 350 Chevy and those blocks aren’t the strongest but they do well one thing we figured out is if you run a lightweight rotating assembly it puts less stress on the block and we had a 350 that turned 8000 rpm and ran 1050 in a 3400 pound car and that engine ran for years never broke a block 28 grams at 7000 rpm is 700 pounds of force so when you take 6 pounds or more off the crank lightweight everything else you can get away with a lot more as long as you don’t detonate it
Shipped a full 5.0L crate motor from east coast to FRA by air for $650. But that was two years ago. Not surprised if that price has doubled by now.