Why is the Klamper Disc Brake Single Sided?
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- čas přidán 10. 04. 2019
- We've had a few people ask us why our Klamper Disc Brake is actuated from one side instead of both. The short answer is POWER. The long answer is, well.... this video! But it's only 4 minutes and 37 seconds long, so check it out!
- Krátké a kreslené filmy
Man I love all of this. "Tie Dye Friday", Althea being Pauls's favorite Dead song, and information on some incredible brakes I just bought, raddddd.
Thank you for the insights! Love what you guys do, you make some beautiful components.
Paul Klamper, Equal, BB7 Road SL, SHIMANO CX77, I think they are all the best mechanical disc calipers. They are all Signle Sided.
What kind of klampers should i look at for Surly's 2019 midnight special? Do i need any special adapters?
Oh my gosh that was a great explanation of why your single piston design can offer better braking power than dual piston cable brakes. It’s rare for google to push me a video I liked this much.
I think your design efforts could also use a few follow up text FAQs on your website which I’ll check out later. 1) do the two brake pads wear mostly evenly over their life? 2) is the brake pad adjustment easier or harder with your design vs other single piston designs (Avid BB7) or dual piston designs (TRP Spyke)? 3) are there objective test results on pad force vs lever force for some standard cable levers compatible for V brakes (long pull) that could be used to compare brake designs? 4) is it easy even if rotors have a little wobble to open pads up enough to avoid rubbing (i.e., what is max pad opening? I’ll send this as an email later with maybe a few more Qs. I’m now leaning towards your brakes over the TRP for replacing the horrendous Avid hydros on my 2014 Salsa Horsethief.
As a bike mechanic, I can tell you from personal experience that the drive side pad adjustment on a TRP Spyke or Spyre on the rear is rather tricky. It's a 3mm allen wrench, deep enough that you can't use a ball end. Since most people have a rotor that is smaller than or the same size as their cassette, you can't fit the long end L-bend or T-handle allen wrench in. This means that you have to use the short end, with the long end of the L-bend ending up mixed in with the spokes. You can usually only get like 60 degrees of rotation in at a time.
Sure but why not design it like the brake that rhymes with fire? a lever that compresses both sides.
Out of curiosity. for a more rigid caliper design? Some arguments say the outer pad will wear faster since it spends more time on the rotor.
Ive got 25 year old Avud BB7s. I don't wear out pads any quicker than my newer hydro braked fully. These old brakes still work just fine. I'm more of a long distance rider and don't rip down hills very often. But I do often carry touring sized loads and ride in bad weather often.
Fact is, there are very few decent mechanical discs on the market. Most of 'em (especially the road versions) arent strong enough to lock the wheel. More than a few are so bad you can keep pedaling while applying the brakes hard. I wrench in a shop, so I get to 'try' to make up for those unable to do their jobs competently. Ive also worked as a machinist for decades. Paul's
make really nice stuff to much higher standards than most of this silly industry!
Can these run with Centerlock rotors?? I am a larger rider, and will occasionally pull a Bob Trailer, or ride with panniers. Can Klampers take on that challenge? I have had no luck with multiple combos of hydraulic setups and I am don’t with them. I’m hoping Klampers are my solution.
The man has good taste in GD tunes. Althea is my favorite as well.
Paul makes beautiful high quality unattainium parts....supply & demand dictates price & Im a cheap
bastard that buys 1st quality at discount or used...I wished Paul
would machine motorcycle parts.
My kind of maniac!
I finally have my dream bike, Trek 1120 ! I bought two of your Klamper disc brake long pull post mount brakes. I need help getting the rear mounting figured out. Please please help. Trek says it’s a no go ! Your brake is king ! I need help ! Please can you help ?
Interesting info. I have a question that I have never found the answer to. The small set screws on many of the different caliper pad position adjusters. I watched another video on the Klamper and thought I saw the screws in a blip, possibly one on the inboard pad and one on the outboard pad. That video made no mention of the set screws. My question is how are those set screws intended to be used by the mfgr? Instructions covering those screws seems hard to come by.
Some say to loosen the set screw for adjusting and then retighten the screw. Other instructions make no mention of the screw during adjustment, making me think that the screw is possibly itself set at the factory and intended to simply apply a set amount of tension to the adjuster threads. Most of the set screws I've disassembled have a small slug of plastic at the end between the set screw and the adjuster threads. I see that plug being used to protect the adjuster threads but possibly to supply a slight tension to the adjuster? Sidenote: one caliper I dissembled (different brand) used a longer set screw and had no plastic plug. The set screw had been tightened into the adjuster and damaged the threads.
Does this video help?: czcams.com/video/u7hOhOq3CVg/video.html
@@PaulComponentEngineering Thank you. I watched the video, very informative. That ball plunger/detent groove is way more quality than the simple set screw that I have experienced.
Avid BB7s have always been single sided, and they still compete with plenty of big name hydraulic brakes out there.
AlexPaulsen
Ive been using 3 Mtn BB7 calipers for nearly 20 years. Rebuilt 2 calipers with the kits a couple times. I use a 180mm rotor on my hardtail and 160mm rotors on my touring bike with CaneCreek Drop V levers. They work great, as simple as they are. You could rebuild one on a picnic bench. My pads don't wear unevenly! I get great life out of pads.
The road version BB7 aren't as effective, probably due to most road levers cable pull and leverage and the shorter caliper arm. There are few mechanical road calipers that offer sufficient power for me.
As good as these mtn BB7s are, I wonder how Avid screwed up hydros so badly. My Juicies were perfectly maintained and regularly bled and lasted less than 5 years. Elixirs are notorious as bad, unreliable brakes. DOT fluid and incompatible seals is a pretty bad idea!We hate them in my shop!
Now I see Sram Guides and Levels with ALL their issues and recalls. My company has recalled over 1000!
I have XT hydros the same age as those Juicies that are still functional!
I'm a retired machinist, now wheel builder and bike tech. I really appreciate Paul's stuff. I own some. I honestly want to know how Klampers are worth 3 times more than BB7s.
If I don't care about modulation but want the most locking/holding power, should I use the short pull Love lever on a long pull caliper because of the increased leverage?
You'll get more force out of the brake, but pad clearance will be too small or the lever throw too long
Use them with the levers they were designed for. Its common sense. There are YOUR brakes!!!
nice Krampus...
Ef you Paul, I hate you... No, actually not true, my wallet does... 😂 Awesome product, as always 👍
woooooo hoooooo !
At 250 each I'll stick with Asian dual side. I love PC and USA made when I can but I don't see the benefit here