Paul Klampers - One Year Later?
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- čas přidán 6. 06. 2024
- Review of the Paul Klampers one year later. Are they still great?
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The Paul Klamper can be disassembled and reassembled with ease. Just make sure you put the parts back the right way. If you put the parts in backwards, the bike accelerates when you hit the lever.
I hate when that happens. I still remember when I accidentally ran my bike back into the storm door, because I accidentally put the tire on backwards...
Only if you ride your bike forwards
Mr. Paul Klamper accidently found the source of free unlimited energy.
Life hack🙃
I much appreciate your reviews for people who just want to enjoy the rise with as little fuss as needed. I'm so reminded of articles in Bicycling Magazine of the 1970s and articles by Frank Berto on low gearing, and fatter tires (the guy was far ahead of his time) to make cycling more enjoyable. Keep up the good work.
Just a note. Hardtail party uses them and loves them too. He took them down some crazy singletrack in Moab too.
I have Klampers on 2 of my gravel bikes, one of which is a MTB bikepacking rig. The Klampers are simply awesome! Easy to adjust, ample stopping power, and no hydraulic lines to worry about while far away. Modulation will come with practice.
Excellent points on the compatibility with rotors and certain frame clearances! Love my klampers!
Been using BB7 for 4 years. Still work great. Zero complaints
I used BB7's for many years. Good brakes.
Klampers are another league. I've been using the Pauls for 3 years now and there is no comparison.
Half the price
@@canyoneagle growtac equal
Your first review is the reason I got them and I love them! I’ve had them almost a year now too. I have them on my All City Gorilla Monsoon, which I also got because of one of your videos, and they are great! Bomb proof and I feel like I can get good modulation from them too! Thanks Rus!
Sounds like an awesome bike build just from the feame and brakes!
Perfectly timed video! I was researching these the other day and am definitely a fan of how easy they are to work on. Pricey yes, but can be worth it for the right rider I suppose. I would love to try these on my trail and packing rigs for two “different” situations.
Excellent review Russ. I have a friend with very little bike maintenance skills. He has Klampers on his Solace OM-2P. He's had it for a few months and has easily adjusted his own brakes. I have them on my not yet arrived Tanglefoot Hardtack. A beautiful rig with classic lines, why not a classic set of Paul's on it. Now for the big reason. Mechanical disc brakes are easily field adjusted and repaired. You can literally use a piece of barbed wire to fix them in a pinch. I hit my handlebars on a tree with hydraulics once and broke off the bleed valve in my rear brake. A friend had to respond to my plea for help by dropping his bike ahead of me and tackling me off the bike. On any bike you plan to ride for long distances without a bike shop nearby, mechanicals are the way to go. If you can swing them, Paul Klampers are the way to do it in style.
I have been using Clampers with Love Levers for 3 years on my MTB. The first year I wasn’t impressed, I switched from KoolStop pads to SRAM and it was a game changer for me. I like changing my setups and keep parts for as long as I can. I also love rebuild able parts. That said, I’m very satisfied with my purchase.
Dude. I love your content! Thank you and keep it up.
I have the Klampers paired with PC Love levers and yokazuna cables on my flat bar fat touring rig. I rode TDT with a fully loaded rig and never had an issue. I got them after your first review actually, and have never regretted it. Now that we have snow and I'm running full fatbike, I think they're even better. I think the cable and lever combo matters more than BB7 or some other mechanicals out there. Quality, cheap, light - pick 2! USA small brand made and will last a lifetime...no brainer
Thanks for the differentiated review!
Yes people do still ride Campagnolo you should try the Ekar 1x 13 group set which is brilliant 😊
I have two sets of Paul Components Cross-Stop brakes, one "cheaper" and the other more mill work, titanium hardware. The finish of these 90's Era pre-V brake brakes are second to none, so I know PC parts are top notch. Steve of "Hardtail" swears by the Klampers and runs them literally on all his bikes, especially if he's building up a frame for review. He rides alot of Black rated trails in Sedona, so that's another testament to how good Klampers truly are.
I love my klampers on my soma Wolverine! One thing I’d mention about them is their external width. If you don’t have a modern frame with the rear brake on the chain stay, the caliper can get in the way of rack mounts.
Loving that purple! I can see people buying these for the aesthetics first.
I have Klampers and Love Levers on my Surly Ogre which I use for bike packing. I love the simplicity and build quality of the brakes. I am more than happy to pay a little bit extra for a durable and really well made product. And they work effectively for my party pace style of riding.
I am planning on fitting Paul’s QR skewers to my bike as well once I receive them. I ordered them in July 2021 through AVT and still waiting. Something to do with a delay in the supply of the skewer material due to COVID so understandable but the lack of a definite delivery date for my parts from the supplier would be my only negative comment re my experience with Paul Components so far.
Although brakes are for stopping, they also can be compared aesthetically. While boxy, the Klampers anodized finishes are quite attractive. So there's that.
I would agree on the fact that the actuator lever arm is not the best. i also had route the front brake cable externally on my fork because of the same issue you had with your rear one. Aside from this problem I'm satisfied with them.
Thank you for the review. I had my hydraulic brakes fail on a downhill mountain bike run. I’ll only use mechanical it’s simple. They work
Just got mine last night. Curious on your review. Everything I’ve read and watched has been positive.
Nice video, Russ. I'm late to the party but my Klamper usage is a bit different so I offer this in case any weirdos (like me) want to try a similar setup! I am running a long pull klamper in front w/ an Avid SD7 v-brake in rear (w/ kool stop salmon pads), SD7 levers, Jagwire pro housing and a 160mm XTR rotor. This is on a 20+ year old steel hardtail frame that is one of my all-time favorites...use it regularly for xc singletrack as well as for shorter bikepacking trips. I've put this brake setup through the wringer during the last couple of years, including plenty of challenging dirt descents, and it's fantastic. Love the Klamper, easy to set up and just works. Easy pad adjustments on the fly. Far less fussy re setup and ongoing "maintenance" than other mechanical discs that I've experienced. And I like the ability to change out the arms for different lever pull (yes, I run Campy on my roadies, 10sp and 12sp). If one has the budget, Klampers are a great choice. The MUSA and non-disposable elements are nice, too.
Old hardtails rock! Steel is real, but this one's US made Easton Ultralite. I built my own steel frames/forks these days. I like dirt rando best.
On my old Rock Lobster 26" hardtail I use an ancient M775 XT hydro brake, (it was free and its still an awesome perfect brake) 180 rotor, metallic pads and an even more ancient XTR V brake in the rear with a very old ceramic coated rim and Koolstop salmon pads. This old Bontrager rim doesn't wear out. It looks new besides scratching and faded old stickers. Ceramic coated rims are long forgotten but tgey really work. It's harder than hard annodizing. Probably over 50000 hard dirty miles on that one rim. I hoard them and cry if I taco one!
I get as much braking as I want from either. Unless we have very good suspension or practically sit on the rear wheel, we can't expect ultra strong braking from a rear brake and it's not the one doing 70% of the work.
I just installed a dynamo hub light system so I can ride all winter, dusk to dawn if I want. It's a game changer for long rides! Highly recommended!
My old frame's got brake posts and a disc mount, but I still use a rear v brake just because I'm not going to let go of my glorious old non disc Chris King rear hub. It was one of the first he ever made and it still uses the original same bearings after 28 years of abuse! One of the best valued parts I've ever bought.
Great comments on price considerations, longevity and country of origin should be a consideration. These should be factors!
I think they look great on boutique (non-mass produced) bikes for that hipster flair. Also if I ever go the route of welding disc brake tabs on a nice vintage bike, I’d consider Klampers.
Your original review helped push me in the direction of Klampers over Spyres. I ended up having them both but am disappointed with the Spyres and am in love with the Klampers. We have very similar use cases and I couldn’t agree more with your review. Well said!
Why? I have the spyres and I think it's great. Haven't got a hand on the klampers
The Spyres’ adjustment does not hold. A week of hard use and they have to be readjusted. The need for a 3mm Allen key to move the pads is also a pain. Yes, Klampers require an Allen key to loosen the lock screw on one adjustment knob, but it isn’t required while adjusting. The process is way simpler and more reliable on Klampers. I just had to readjust my front Spyre and I have to insert the 3mm Allen key through the spokes - there’s no way to spin the wheel and slowly bring the pad in until you hear it touch the rotor, then back off. The process is spin, listen, stop, adjust, repeat. I like my pads as close as possible and this is a major PIA. I like the basic design of Spyres with BOTH pads having clamping action, but the adjustment system falls short. Klampers prove you don’t need both pads clamping.
One more pain about the Spyres is that I find I have to “choke up” on the cable. The brake arm has to be pulled up the cable to get good lever feel for me. I could use the barrel adjuster, but I need so much adjustment that my barrel is all the way out. Never a problem with Klampers.
Long pull mountain calipers aren't as bad, but the short pull calipers of various brands combined with certain brifters can be horrible and weak powered.
I've got to add that MOST
(the vast majority) mechanical discs are a cheap compromise. This is the plain mechanical reality. They're used because they're cheap and increase corporate profit.
Paul's Klampers are in a completely different reality and one mere caliper can cost more than an entire hydro system.
The various mechanical disc issues ARE a mechanical advantage/leverage problem, 'maybe' (just maybe) solved by specific parts chosen or specced. Nevertheless, Ive always used long pull cable discs because there's little good reason not to. I hate brifters and refuse to use them for very logical reasons that I encounter every day. But I must deal with them as a pro mechanic plenty often enough.
Personally, I use V type (long pull) mtb levers or Cane Creek Drop V road levers with my Avid BB7s. I've used the same 3 calipers now for about 20 years. LONG PULL BB7s are one of the very few exceptions to weak cable discs. They're great! With 180 rotors, I've got more than enough power for touring/bike packing sized loads! But I'm not 'pushing the envelope' down descents. I generally rest on downhills for my long rides.
I've seen some TRP mechanicals, Spyres included, (plenty other brands too!) that are so weak, combined with brifters, you could literally apply the brakes hard as possible, pulling as hard as my very strong hands can pull and I can still pedal the bike in a low gear. This is after they are bedded in properly, which is difficult because they are so mechanically weak! There's no excuse to put crap brakes like that on any bike ridden on ANY TYPE ROAD! It's often done in the name of profit on more than just cheap entry level bikes.
I'm a pro mechanic and I know exactly how to set up brakes properly. For mechanical discs, compressionless housing and proper friction free housing set up makes a HUGE difference. It's practically required for even decent performance.
The cheap coiled brake housing provided on MANY production bikes acts like a spring, which wastes precious lever travel that's especially limited in short pull mechanical brake systems. In other words, your levers hit the bars before full brake power is reached due to all that squish and compression in the housing. So both the housing and the brake system design is the issue.
Shimano road brifters were designed to pull cable on dual pivot rim brakes. They don't even work very well with cantilevers. Cable pull adapters for v brakes work but they add cable resistance and setup hassles. Sram road levers pull a bit more cable, but they don't pull as much as an old school brake only lever. Mini V's and road levers sorta work but minimize pad to rim clearance inevitably causing brake rub.
For serious mtb, wet conditions, going fast or extra heavy loads,
(like E bikes and overweight humans) NOTHING will ever beat the power of hydros! The majority of mineral oil brakes (even entry level) are extremely reliable (bled yearly at least) and they're not difficult to bleed if you're somewhat mechanically inclined. If you can do all the other regular maintenance on your bike, bleeding isn't hard to learn and the tools you 'need' aren't excessive.
Shimano mtb hydros are the best value on the market.
Ironically TRP's high end hydros are the highest quality and best designed hydro brakes on the planet. They are perfected in every aspect, but you will pay dearly. They are glorious to service, touch and operate but save your pennys! TRPs are probably about on par, cost wise with Paul's.
New PLP channel mantra:
• Just Riding A Bike •
I love the Klampers on my backcountry touring bike. They are very easy to adjust. I have never had any problems braking, including an immediate lock up I had to do during a group ride when someone cut right in front of me.
Understand your concerns on the HY/RDs but they have been great for me - replaced my spyres and couldn't be happier. Haven't touched them in 2 years and they still work great. I don't use them on mountains or long, steep declines though.
Those are made in my hometown of Chico, CA! The terrain of Chico is some tough mtb terrain! So these were definitely made to last! A lot of the custom mtb builders out here in NorCal use them. If I could afford them I’d definitely be buying a few too.
I've been using Spykes for couple years. Spykes are NOT maintenance friendly - and the pad adjusting bolts constantly slip (loctite helps for only a little while). I really like the maintenance friendliness of the Klampers! Someone below commented on the fact that switching to hydros requires more than simply purchasing calipers so the cost comparison needs to take that into account - as I have been debating between Shimano XT hydros and the Klampers.
The BIG issue with Sypkes is maintenance as water/grit egress into the bearings will happen and seize up the calipers. Now, there is a way to get to those bearings but it is a PITA and will result in gouging the caliper body to get the actuator arms off/on as one has to pry the arms off with a screw driver - and getting them back totally sucks. I've had to do this 3 times. In a nutshell - constant pad slippage and not designed for maintenance will have me replace them in the near future.
Are there any handlebar bags for cantilever brakes that strap to the bars and do not rely on a front rack? Maybe with a built-in derailleur or something?
Russ, thanks again for your channel. I appreciate the honest, no BS reviews a similar practical rider.
In your 1st review I asked how do these compare to BB7s. Especially considering the huge cost difference.
So now that you've ridden on them awhile, what's the story??
From what I understand, their design is quite similar.
Paul's builds no holds barred, cost is no object hardware. Ive used some of their gear. Ive designed and machined similar aerospace hardware to high standards of quality. I certainly understand why it costs so much. As consumers, we ALWAYS PAY for what we get, one way or another.
I think they brake better. I’ve had to get in drops with BB7s for better braking. Rarely need to with the Paul’s. Paul’s are way easier to change the pads. The BB7s are such a PITA. The BB7s are a throwaway part you won’t miss, the Paul’s you move from bike to bike. Also you can’t change the lever arms on BB7s so if you swap bars you need new calipers.
Another way to look at it is if the BB7s were made in the US what would they actually cost?
@@PathLessPedaledTV Thanks man. I definately believe you regarding the pads. BB7 pads, their stupid clip and magnet is a PITA. Years ago, on my shitty Juicys, the pad became corroded to the magnet in my caliper and I ripped it out, requiring a new caliper.
I'm not arguing with you here, But my BB7s have lasted over 20 years and they're easily rebuildable. I have moved them onto a few different bikes! Ive rebuilt mine 3 times in all these years. I use the mtb versions with Cane Creek Drop V levers and 180 front rotors, 160 rear or with a rim brake. They're all powerful enough for careful descending with loaded touring and long distance bikepacking in mind.
If cost were no object to me, I'd probably buy Yokohama Ultimos. I am going to build a hydro hybrid set up with TRP brake only levers and Shimano calipers. I definately appreciate hydros on my MTBs especially for big mountain, long rough descending. Mineral oil brakes are very reliable and fairly easy to maintain. I wouldn't touch Sram hydros with a ten foot pole!
My old rim brakes have never lacked for stopping, power, even in the rain when pumped. I adjust them once every multiple years. The old stuff still works.
I wouldn't buy these but I'll give Paul credit for his longevity. Hes been able to stay in business through all the ups and downs in the bike industry. I think 3 decades at least....
I remember seeing him in the early mtb magazines. His early products were always a thing of amazement for me and ths new ones are too.
Keeps it simple while solving niggles other major brands would accept (and then they'd sell you an updated/new standard version later).
One more thing to consider (sorry if you covered this, Russ, but I didn't catch it) is the cost of the brake lever/shifters that are required to complete the hyrdraulic brake setup. Ie, ultegra hyrdraulic calipers are ~$75, but the matching shift/brake levers cost 3x to 10x more than levers that work with klampers (which can be as cheap as a $5 parts bin mtb lever). All told, I think paul's brakes are the better value, and that's before adding something that is a HUGE value for me: supporting US workers and not a giant multinational corporation!
I've used Klampers with Love Levers via SRAM brake housing on my MTB for years and will never look back. Also like the combo of TRP RRl levers and klamspkies using bc9000 housing (which compresses a lil but is so so buttery).
Is there a disc brake system out there that has an extra wide clearance to specifically eliminate the rubbing??
I like the fact that these are made in the U.S. but I can't justify the price. Opted for the TRP Spyres and I'm happy with them. They lock up pretty nice and don't have any drag to speak of. Nice review!
I would love a pair of Klampers for my disc road bike (currently running TRP Spyres). I just need a good excuse now hahah
Have you talked about that SONdelux you're using before?
A few months on from the premier of this video, have you tried them with your bike loaded down, or maybe pulling a BOB style trailer??
I tend to prefer hydraulic because of the cold weather. If they can somehow design a cable actuated disc brake for the rear wheel where water cannot get into the housing and lock my brakes the Paul Klampers are something I would consider. I like the tool-less adjustability.
I always struggle getting a perfectly aligned caliper on the rotor. I think the dual adjustment would help there. Only being able to adjust one side means I have to loosen the caliper bolts and shift the entire caliper over to align the other pad. I imagine tightening both pads into the rotor to center, then backing off just enough for clearance is a breeze on these brakes.
You can adjust both pads.
Would love to put them on my bike as well, but I think their body is too wide for tubus duo and logo racks. For rack compatibility I will use TRP Spyke with some Jagwire Pro cables.
Love this! I got a pair of anodized purple back. What the experience of performance with Shimano vs Sram levers with the short pull lever on the caliper?
From what I've been seeing online is there's a difference in the cable pull between Shimano & Sram brake levers. I am going to set these up with a pair of Sram levers. Let me know what your experiences have been
I have had no prob with them and SRAM levers.
I have had a Klamper on my MTB fixed gear for 4 years. Never once adjusted it, replaced pads once and when we get wet and muddy the bikes with the hydraulics squeal like crazy but not the Klamper [okay maybe for 30sec]. I ride on wet and muddy New England single track. Best brake for me.
I think if they well made, well designed and last a long time , then price is justified. But would be fun to see a project farm type review of varying brake systems in contrast. Chico is home to Paul, Sierra Nevada brewing and 22reperformance. 3 home grown local cool ass businesses
I think it’s EnduroMTB that does laboratory level comparisons of brakes every year or so, but they only do hydros. A similar comparison of mechanical and hybrid brakes would be welcome, because there are large differences in brakes that just aren’t present in other components.
I also have them on 3 bikes. All built up by me with wheels I built. Paid for by me. I love them - they’ve spoiled me for any other disc brakes now.
nokon housing is pretty rad, ever try it?
Do these Klamper calipers have a spring tension adjustment like Avid bb7?
Good Promo. Keep it up. most ppl don´t know why things are expensiv.
Which rotor do you prefer with these?
I’m assuming it’s fairly dry where you are? My Gravel bike came with cable disks, which I found ate pads, at best of times a wet soggy ride you could end up having to adjust a few times, plus the wet got into the callipers generally around the pistons and trashed them so I did go though a few!
So I gave up and got some hydraulics which being sealed system mud can’t get inside! Plus as someone who is MTBer and heavy. Ie I’m likely to rail corners and so on, and simply cable disks disk or rim just don’t have the power/control for use.
Though I do get your use case ie if your riding is fairly chilled in a dry environment plus you swap out kit on your bike, hydraulic is not going to be your first choice!
Yes, Campagnolo is still a thing. You should check out Ekar for gravel.
Great to see this long-term review.
Once you've spent a few hundred dollars replacing TRP callipers with seized pistons (which can't be serviced or replaced), and you're sick of the sponginess, the price of the PAUL KLAMPER starts to make sense.
Not true...Spyres can be stripped down and serviced, I've done it many times!
@@julian5883 TRP hy/rd can't be serviced.
I’ve always been curious about the Paul Klemperer. I don’t own a drop bike bar yet, but I have several mountain bikes of varying sorts and they all have Shimano XT hydraulic disc brakes. For me XT’s have always been the gold standard for components and especially disc brakes. I have had my rear calipers fail a time or two, but it’s easily remedied with a brake bleed. I would like to try the Klampers on my rigid steel bikepacking bike, but I can’t justify the cost of them. New Paul Comp. brake levers, klampers and cables are probably $700+ right there. If I build another bike or end up with a bike that needs a brake upgrade I will definitely give them a try.
Buy the klampers and get cable Shimano or Tektro levers. No need to go full Paul for braking. The cable pull isn’t proprietary.
Love my klampers paired with Yokozuna compressionless housing. gives more more than enough stopping power and great feel too
Can anybody help me with the round cable crimps at the end of the brake cable? I actually own a pair but can't for the life of me figure out where they are from or what to search them by.
how do they manage heat?
Braking power is absolutely everything, when you don't have enough. Once you have enough then modulation is everything.
This brake has enough.
Please review Paul's cantilever brakes.
Brake and tire upgrades planned!
My experience with Paul Components is, yes expensive but with replaceable part they will probably outlast me. The kind of parts I swap out before selling a bike. Buy quality, cry once.
Interesting. You've reviewed many bike stuff, I wonder if you've heard of the pedalcell and if you have one?
Yes. No.
This might be sacrilege but I recently got some long pull Paul Love Levers but I just couldn't bring myself to pull the trigger on the Klampers and opted for TRP Spykes. I know you mentioned preferring the Klampers to Spyres with Shimano levers, I'd be interested getting your take on Klampers vs Spykes with flat bar levers.
Flat bar Spykes and even Spyres perform great but suck with road levers.
Interesting comment and timely! I also have the Spykes and have been debating whether to pull the trigger for the Loves
@@ewillia007I've yet to install the setup - pogies, freezing garage, and all that =-) My take was that I've never really seen a Spyke vs Klamper showdown, and it kind of makes me wonder why....... What levers are you currently using?
@@PathLessPedaledTV Thanks for the feedback - I feel like I've had pretty good results on another bike with Spyres and Gevenalles with "roadish" levers. At least enough to replace my stock hydros on my Surly Ice Cream Truck with the Spykes. Time will tell if I have ever lasting lust of the Klampers or not =-)
So... would you take the Paul Klampers over your Yokozuna's? have been debating which ones to purchase for a while now.
Yes
So, after a year, any sign of corrosion? I commute in a bunch of winter slop, and at that price point even slow corrosion would be a major concern for me.
oh that's a good point, would like to know the answer as well. Cheap single speed may be ideal for that situation.
I've been using them in the UK on nasty salty roads for 3 years and noticed no corrosion, even where I've scratched the anodising. I have rebuilt them 2 or 3 times using high quality calcium grease though, just as routine maintenance, and they perform exactly the same as when they were new.
Curious about Laura’s thoughts - she has Klampers on the Breadwinner right?
What i hate about them is the plastic barrel adjuster. I now know 2 people where on a descent the adjuster just melted leaving the break nearly useless. I don’t know why it isn’t just made from a metal
Thanks for this - was wondering about long term views rather than initial thoughts,
I love the looks, the build quality and the brand. I'd buy them in a heartbeat... if it wasn't for the price. I just don't have the spare cash for 2 calipers.
What alternative mechanical/cable calipers are closr in terms of piwer, reliability but cost less for a cheapskate like me? I did consider the hy/rd - any good. Coming from mountain biking I saw my hydraulic calipers last a long time with no servicing (except pad change and an odd squirt of break cleaner now and then) so assume a cable actuated caliper with hydraulic piston would be the same?
the hy/rd stopping power is way closer to a two pistons full hydro. I now use spyre callipers on gravel bikes and regret so much my hy/rd mounted on a gravel bike I have sold. i will go back to hybrid as soon as possible
@@Jean-jk4zv Would you say the hy/rd have more stopping power than these Paul Klampers? I've been running the hy/rd's for a long time with great success, but I'm looking for something lighter.
@@Steelrailbearing never tried them but I suspect their stopping power to be less efficient than an hybrid hydraulic due to the nature of the mechanism.
@@Jean-jk4zv Thank you for the feedback. After some research, I'm staying with my hybrid/hydro. I've been running the same calipers trouble free since 2014. Contrary to what this video says, the hy/rd's are very serviceable.. I like the simplicity of these Pauls, but I'm not going to change something that has preformed rock solid (in harsh conditions) for over 80,000 km.
Curious if you’ve ever used Avid BB7’s and how these compare. They seem to be a similar design in principal; granted the Paul is a way nicer part but on the bike how’s the feel compare?
I think they brake better than bb7s, stock pads are better in the klampers and the pads are less fussy to replace.
@@PathLessPedaledTV that may be true...everything boils down to the price difference in the end klampers may be "better" but 10x times better?
@@ioanbola I address that in the video. Where it’s made makes a huge difference in price. If BB7s were made in the US they would be closer to the price of klamper than they are now.
The thing that makes any cable brake better (for me) is compressionless housing. That used to mean Nokon, but it squeaks, is overpriced, and very hard to actually get. So I've switched to the JagWire segmented housing. It makes for both crisper shifting and braking. Coupled with Klampers, I count it as a win.
I really do like disc brakes. Mechanical brakes are definitely more simple than hydraulic. I’m just not really sure about high end mechanical brakes. Especially if there aren’t any significant savings with regard to weight or increases in performance. For that kind of money, hydraulic with a bleed once a year makes a little more sense to me.
I switch handle bars and shifters a lot. Way easier with mechanical.
these along with Thompson stems brooks saddles and anything by Chris King are jewelry, nothing wrong with having a fancy bike, its fun. But not necessary
Spyre fan here...mate them to good quality compressionless housing and they work great in my book, and they CAN be stripped and serviced relatively simply...way cheaper and better looking than the Klampers, whats not to like?
Klampers vs Yokozunas, in terms of stopping power? Because otherwise I guess you would choose Klampers due to lack of any kind of fluid. :)
Also, do you use compressionless housing with Klampers and does it make a difference?
Paul recommends not using compressionless housing.
@@PathLessPedaledTV Interesting...did he say why not?
I see why you didn’t recommend them for the Thunderhawk, I am waiting for a frame on back order,. Wishing I could have gotten the first version with external cable routing
@@tanhalt inner lining can add unnecessary friciton.
@@PathLessPedaledTV Huh...that seems...counterintuitive
Thanks! I'm a huge fan. KISS principal
Seems like these are one of the only 'high fidelity' mechanical brakes left, because everyone that needs more power or lever feel uses hydros. There's a niche market for mechanical brakes but these are definitely a buy once and take from frame to frame sort of component. Yes they're expensive, but anyone who has owned low quality mech calipers in the past would probably be swayed after riding with the Klampers. For my money though, Shimano or SRAM hydraulic discs. Bleeding is a non-issue, IF the brakes stay on one frame.
I’ve never tried them. I’ve run avid BB5, formula and Hayes MX 4. I think all mechanical brakes have a very similar feel
BB7 is a significant step up from BB5, which (IME) are terrifyingly bad. Klampers are another realm entirely. Closest comparison for me (based on what I've owned and ridden) is XT 4-piston hydros.
The Klampers with the Paul levers are another experience in the cable world. You can't really compare them to other mech brakes IMO
@@canyoneagle what I meant by mechanicals feeling similar is they go from very little grab to locking up without much modulation. I ride mostly DJ and free ride trails so I like a bit of modulation so I don’t feel jerked around. I’d give the klampers a shot but they’re super expensive especially to get them shipped to Canada
I find spires aren't always set up well by people and that's why many find them spongy. And trade out the stock pads. Even the Shimano cheap pads are a big step up.
I don't understand why they ship with crap pads. It shouldn't be up to the end user to know that and fix the problem.
@@PathLessPedaledTV also, cable housing management and trimming is key. Needs things super flush and good metal ends.
Been meaning to write up how to do a good setup.
Also the Swiss stop green pads make them quite good. A couple notches above stock and better than shimano base level.
Per caliper cost: $221 PK vs $57 for TRP Spyre.
Spyres are meh IME esp with Shimano levers.
I use Spyres with Tektro levers (gevenalle audax) and they stop very well. 160mm shimano rotors. I'm 130kg. If Spyres can stop me on descents, then they are impressive in my book.
I think Russ should do another review but with Spyres paired with different levers on the same bike
@@johnathanmaxey118 I have the spyres with sram rival levers and regular cables,the stopping power and modulation is excellent. They feel just like my 105 rim brakes😉
"Boxy but good" is that a Crazy People reference?
Cool upmarket version of BB-7 brakes but, I'd be more curious if Paul Components made a hydraulic 4 piston answer to Hope's hydraulic 4 piston brakes. [Long mountain road descents are a shade faster and safer with a hydraulic 4 piston and one has more modulation/traction control using less effort; will stick with my SRAM Code R's unless SRAM does a Shimano and becomes a shadow of what they were quality and service-attitude wise. Shimano's gotten rather arrogant (esp. towards the bike-shops).
Timely review. Thanks. Now tell me about the ritchey ascent.
Yes please
In my opinion too many people attribute factors to the brake mechanism, i.e., calipers and levers, that actually have more to do with the brake interface, i.e., pads and rotors. Brake power and modulation are interface issues more than anything, with rotor size/design/material and pad compound being the primary factors. Personally, I am a big fan of Swisstop pads with the standard compound being my fav. For rotors, lots of large vents makes for very aggressive braking/pad wear. The bigger the better for me in terms of diameter, but forks get spring-boing braking if rotors too large. Different alloys have different coefficients of friction. I find Jagwire rotors are the most affordable that perform well with good pads. Gaffer rotors are very aggressive in my experience and probably do best with semi-metallic/sintered.
It's an interface issue alright. The problems caused by many common mechanical discs are caused by combining whatever component is cheap and whatever provides a business with the most profit. Common sense, design, human safety and practicality be damned!
It's plain, simple and obvious to me. I'm a pro shop mechanic. I know exactly what it takes to get disc brakes to function, brake hard safely as well as lock up. It's all mechanical fact. Good, strong brakes have the ability to lock up, so you can bring them right up to that point for maximum braking power. You can hear your tires scrub on the ground right before lockup is reached. It's also advantageous to skid brakes in certain more extreme situations. But far too many riders can't brake properly and are afraid to use that front brake. It provides 2/3s of potential stopping powe just like a motor vehicle.
Short pull cable discs simply don't work well with road brifters designed to pull dual pivot rim brakes. They're always a compromise and rim brakes simply function much better. I've used them off-road for decades.
Cable disc's problem is a cable pull issue involving leverage and mechanical advantage. AKA $hit poor engineering, design and parts spec. Let's not even mention QC or competent assembly in Asia.
The vast majority of cable discs short or long pull simply don't stop well, not even close compared to cheap hydros.
Now add in the cheap cable housing that's like a coil spring, that use up that little bit of precious cable pull. So your levers hit the bars before full power is ever reached!
Most cable disc brakes are so weak you can't even apply them hard enough to properly bed in the brakes, don't even mention locking the brakes! 😣
So indeed, it's a pad/rotor 'interface' issue.
The larger bike industry should be shot for their ignorance, irresponsibility and greed. I can get their overpriced production junk at cost, but I'm boycotting! There's little need to 'upgrade'. My old junk works fine!
Besides it's the RIDER, not the freakin bike!
I still use ancient 20 year old long pull BB7s and 180 rotors on my bike packing rig. Using the stock metallic compound pads. Compressionless housing is a must! They work fine for cruising down big long mountain descents. Short pull BB7s are just barely adequate. I won't ride those.
On my MTBs where I want to actually ride fast downhills and need better modulation in technical terrain, hydros are the only way to go! Nothing beats hydro power.
I get the reasoning of having mechanical disc for very long bikepacking trips or if you ride places that are very remote. Is there something else I’m missing? Otherwise, hydraulic is the way to go. Much better performance all around. A sealed system with virtually no adjustment needed.or cables to get gunked up.
If you change between drops and flat bars? If you run strange gearing setups that aren’t supported by road hydraulics? Etc.,
@@PathLessPedaledTV ahhh very true on different bar set ups. I guess I’m more of a drop bar on one bike, flat bar on another. These are definitely cool and like you and others have said, durability and ease of adjustment seem worth the money. Also a fan of the made in USA factor.
I mean...for the price, shouldn't I grab some Shimano hydraulic calipers/brake levers? I think hydraulic's ease of actuation and great modulation is a cut above mechanical disc in most applications (all applications).
Depends on what you value.
For Klamper money you can get a really nice set of hydro brakes that will just make your life easier. Now those who say that they can't risk a hydro failure in the backcountry, I say that's bollocks. I've been using hydro brakes since 2005 and survived the notoriously terrible Hayes Nine's without issue. I have blown a brake line once, and that was after crashing and continuing to ride the kinked hose for many months until it finally failed.
There’s lots of reasons to choose cables over hydraulics. Back country reliability is just one of them.
I'll tell you what I like about the brakes, and that is COLOR. I love bright colors. Now if they could only do something with the drab colored bikes men seem to gravitate too. Every time I look for a new bike, I see nicely painted bikes for women, while most of the bikes for men are either black or bloody drab grey.
The colors. My god the colors. It's like HR pufnstuf directed an In Living Color video.
I would also klamp up all my rigs if I could, I like lifetime bike parts
With Mechanical Disc Brakes it's ALL about housing. The argument about modulation falls apart immediately when you consider that you can mix and match compressionless and coil quite easily. Even if you're just running one long length of housing It's not especially difficult to make a double-ended housing cap. Show me anyone who says mechanical brakes do not have enough modulation and I will show you someone who has not experimented with different housing and adjustments.
If my wheels lock up when I brake, does anyone really need better brakes?
.....might need new tires though!
:)
Yes... or learn to brake properly ;)
my 20+ year old v brakes work fine
I can hardly wait for the... braking news... on how these have done over time.
Go to your room and think about what you've done😑
@@chris1275cc ... _I'm sorry_ ...
@@davidbierbaum4881 A second consequence to your poor choice...you will change the fluid in all my hydraulic brakes!
Can you run them without the pad retention screw?
Why would you even consider doing this? Not to be a jerk, but that seems like a horrible idea with no upside. Similar to "suicide" (no lockring) on a brakeless fixie. Genuinely curious what the purpose is.
BB7's don't have a pad retention screw. I found this to be an advantage in a recent gravel race that ended up getting really wet and mucky, so much so that we had to replace pads at every check point due to the wet sand grinding the pads down to the backing.
Oh, gotcha! I understand. I would not run these without the screw. I just replaced the BB7's on my Soma Wolverine with some Klampers, and it's a completely different design. The BB7's use a snap retention feature for the pads. The Klampers don't have that feature on the pad or caliper, so without the screw, the pads could, in theory, rattle loose and start to drop out of the caliper body. There is a pad retraction spring with little tabs that would help keep them in place, but I'd consider it very risky to run without the screw. Sram and Shimano use a very similar retention screw, and they even provide a little clip that goes on the tip of the screw to prevent it from backing out if it becomes loose.
Personally, I'd consider the Klampers more field serviceable than the BB7's. It's just a small (2.5mm?) hex screw head, which should be on any multitool. Once the screw is out, the pads slide out easily. I always had to get out some pliers to grab the BB7 pads out of the snap feature. The only downside is that the pads only drop out of the bottom of the caliper, so you have to remove the wheel. Many Sram and Shimano hydraulic allow the pads to come out of the top or bottom.
Thanks, this was the info I was looking for. In terms of user experience, how do they compare to BB7’s? Have you tried Hy/Rd’s? How do the compare to Hy/Rd’s? Do you use compression-less cable housing?
what about BB7 ?? super happy with my set and the price...uncomparable
They’re good for the price. I think the Paul’s stop a little better. Also I find replacing the pads on the BB7s really fiddly. Easy to not properly set the pads.
@@PathLessPedaledTV you are right! Doing the pad adjustments without tools is also hard on the fingers for sure!! If I had the budget, then Klampers for sure,!!
I just order one klamper for the front. People say for the money go hydraulic. Just sort brifters alone are $450 for the pair then ya got to buy the brakes. The klampers will drop in nicely on my bay a with mechanical disc brakes. No new brifter
Been running Spyres on my Salsa Fargo for years now. They suck IMO. I'd like to go with a set Klampers but the cheap bike rider in me is having a hard time coughing up the dough. Maybe though...
No. I'm not. Primarily for one of the reasons you provided. When attempting to use them they didn't pair well with the 2 piece rotors I wanted to use them with as they were also orange anodized. Rotor was hitting caliper body. That and I prefer the 2 sided braking of the Spyre's with Campagnolo. Using that combination for several years and hasn't failed me yet. And they're lighter than the Klampers. As well as costing a fair amount less. If they hadn't been orange and black I wouldn't have even thought to try them.