DIY Seadoo 951 Rave Valve Modification and Assembly
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- Welcome back the the channel!
Today we’re walking you through not only how to assemble your 951 rave valves but how to modify them so they work off of the engine and not the electronic solenoid.
As always if you have any questions please leave them in the comments and we will do our best to help you out.
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Thanks for the video, I don’t have any idea how to fix any engine. I’m not mechanical but you explain this to people like me step by step and I really appreciate it.
Glad to help
I put a nylon wing nut on the red set screw to make them easy to adjust
Nice!
You said your pilot bit was 5/64 = .078 You later said final bit size was .070 Can you confirm the sizes?
As always good info 👌 with a clear understanding of how it works and how to properly do it 👍
Thanks brother
Great tips and explanations as always!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
love the videos, always great info. I have a 2001 Seadoo RXDI i acquired, has a bad cylinder. Have heard lots of negative input about this engine. In your opinion, is this worth rebuilding or just cut the ski loose and look for something else with a better engine? ski is in descent shape, but without a good motor is nothing more than a floating cooler.
Rebuild it if you like it. Rebuild is gonna cost you about 1300-1500 though
Where are you guys based out of? Do you only work on these skis for hobby or for business?
Is that drill size crucial? I only have 1/16 or 5/64. Seems 0.070 (#50) is between those.
What happens to the ports that the solenoid uses when moding the reeds ?
Thanks for the great video and info. When checking the actual valves to make sure they're the same, are there any other tolerances to check? Do they wear? Why would they not be the same if they came out of the same engine? Thanks!
Tenho um seadoo 951 limited q tem essas valvulas
Sao duas no motor e uma no escapamento
Queria alguma dica d como regular as valvulas para ter um melhor desempenho
Agradeço
i have a stock 951 rav valve and after watching the video i am confused, "DRILL THE HOLE TO MATCH THE BLOCK HOLE" OR "DRILL THE HOLE THAT HAS THE BOSS"? the boss side is opposite the block hole AND it should not matter? the bottom cavity is all a common pressure area? so it is no big deal which side is drilled?
I have a 1997 Seadoo SPX with a 787-800, I trying to find out, when do you know that your Rave valve base is worn out. How much wiggle in Rave Valve is ok.
Nice
Thanks
Thank you But what if i dont have the port in the cylinder wall can that be drilled out and do you have a video for this. I have a 2000 GTX DI Thank you
Not recommended on a DI
That’s a sweet bench, where you get it ???
On the 951, how many turns out do you set the red cap? I have a 98 GTX limited. Thanks
7
I prefer these unmodified because the exhaust gas dirties up the valve bellows while the electric does not. Also if soot plugs the hole, boom no valve.
The 951 is a BOOM junk engine anyways. The engine will fail long before that happens.
@@TodayWeWrench tbh it's more likely to just stay stuck in the down position... Losing top end power than boom but regardless... Never seen the electric rave system fail before
@@wagdbikerider I have, also a properly maintained rave will never fail. People should be servicing and checking raves every season.
@@wagdbikerider i had the rave valve system go on my 951 doing this mod helped bring her back to life
What to do with the pulse line, solenoid, and vent hose?
Bruh how do yall only have 3.8k subs. This channel has the quality to be an easily 1mil+ channel. Remember me in a year when yall hit a million! 🫡
Man that would be sick! Thanks for the kind words, glad you like the content.
Have you ever had to replace the actual Rave valve housing due to wear? See there are a lot of aftermarket offerings so assuming they wear out. How do you know if housing has to much play.
Actual housing or the blade itself? A housing can’t wear it dosnt have metal to metal contact and it’s not a moving part. I have seen billet rave caps which I think are silly but if people like it that’s fine. Blades can wear but you would know if yours was. You would have zero low end power and it would be leaking oil from the mixture like crazy out and down the cylinders.
Thanks for info! Was having issues with rave valves hanging up and would only rev to 5000 rpm took valves apart and ran fine till I did a 360 and would have issue again. noticed one red cap had been worn on one side from spring and blade shaft had sharp groves like the coating wore off so bought new blades but hoping housing wouldn’t damage new blades. Sounded like housing shouldn’t be issue
I have a 97 XP 787 and the rave valves only had a large compression spring and no small spring and dished bushing. I could not find and drawing for that year model rave valve. Does that sound correct? Thanks
These were for a 951. The 718 doesn't have the small spring
ine is a 787. No small spring? I bought the ski already taken apart and the oly parts I do not have are 2 each of the small springs, additional o-ring and the dished bushing the o-ring would set in. I assume when the original owner took it apart these ere single spring R-valves. I could not find any info or drawings online specific to the 97-XP model. Thanks for the help
@@TodayWeWrench
Mine is a 787 to be clear, thanks
I lost the top spring, compression spring. Where can i buy one for a 2000 Seadoo GTX?
osdparts.com
do you have a preferred parts supplier you can share. thanks great vids
osdparts.com is who I use
What are the symptoms of a bad Rave valve?
It wont rev out on the top end if its stuck closed
@@TodayWeWrenchWould a bad Rave Valve cause it to not go into power band ? I did the mod to see them opening up and they do when I rev the motor. My 951 starts up great runs great but once its in the water it wont go into power band and will time to time. Any thoughts ? Would love to pay you guys for a consultation if possible
That’s a sweet bench, where you get it ???
Thanks!