Stan, You should dry the inserts in the granite angle block after washing. 400 series stainless will not rust as quickly or easily as carbon steel, but if left wet it will red rust. Mostly a cosmetic problem, but I have seen in on my dive knives inside the removable handle.
Thanks for the video Stan, I always learn something new from your videos. I don't have a squareness gauge however I've discovered that my Jig grinder is very square so I use that.
Nice true-up work. I finally got the confidence to grind my magnetic chuck. It wasn't too bad (about a thou and a half in one spot), but the fence needed it. Only one bozo when I went to level off the top of the fence. You showing and explaining things again to Chuck a couple weeks back was helpful as are all your grinder vids.
Thanks, very nice work Stan. My guess is that your commercial customers get the same attention to detail as your personal shop work so it does not surprise me that you are getting calls all the time!
Stan, Can you please show how to do the same corrections with 1-2-3 blocks and only a surface plate and squares. I am a hobby guy and don't have a cylindrical square or 90 degree surface plates. Great video I want to try it myself! Thanks!
JC S If you dont have anything other than your grinder and a surface plate, you basically just need a sharpie, some way to compare squareness, and some way to shim the part.
Stan - I keep watching your videos to learn stuff and I really like the type of videos that you make. I gots to ask - are you doing most of the metrology and grinding stuff as a hobby? I've seen quite a few of your videos building painting booths etc... Anyways, keep making videos - it seems that everybody really enjoys them :)
@@ShadonHKW where can I get that fancy granite angle plate with the threaded mounts and steel inserts?? Also where can I get that squareness checker you had your indicator in I am sure it is not cheap!! I use a very nice mitutoyo height gage that surprisingly holds very tight on vertical travel checking squareness but I know it is not good enough. I also made a magnetic cylinder that mounts to face and you can sweep end to end to get error. I cylindrically ground it and counterbored the magnet just below flush so it works but it is mimics easier when you can sweep the entire face. Thanks for the help and nice video
Wow bet those granite blocks would cost a pretty penny, did they make those for you? I've never seen granite blocks you could use for machining. . I think Herman Schmidt stuff is only .0001-.0002
After you had decided which side was your best and you did your final match grind with both blocks why did you flip and grind your known best side off again?
The granite block seemed to be the same size as the 2-4-6 when grinding. How do you keep from grinding away at the granite when they are face to face and without some sort of parallel or spacer?
I believe he is taking advantage of the chamfers on the 2-4-6. The grind does not go all the way to the vertical surface. It only has to cover the top surface, which does not go all the way to the granite because of the chamfer. Not a *big* margin, but more than enough to do the operations.
On the indicator, the stylus isn't parallel to the work so it doesn't give a true measurement. Despite this being a very small error, if you were officially certifying a piece for squareness would it be good enough or would you have to use a different setup? Actually now I think about it, the further away from parallel, the greater the accuracy? Correct?
Also depends on the indicator. Interapid and B & S BesTest indicators (same indicators, different labels) are correct when the angle of contact is 12 degrees.
Instead of saying "the further away from parallel, the greater the accuracy?" I suppose it should be something like "the further away from parallel, the error is in favour of more accuracy"?
The cosine error increases as you deviate from what the manufacturer specs. You actually get less accuracy once you start going off the "defined" measuring point, like your part is 0.01 off but your indicator shows 0.0002 (exaggerated). Mitutoyo and others have a table and math inside the manual of the indicator to correct that error if it needs to be corrected. But, it doesn't matter much if there is a cosine error or not if shoot for zero error as you are doing comparison measurement to a known square. And to be fair, these sort of measurements are not done in a workshop table like Stan does to be certified to spec.
Stan, You should dry the inserts in the granite angle block after washing. 400 series stainless will not rust as quickly or easily as carbon steel, but if left wet it will red rust. Mostly a cosmetic problem, but I have seen in on my dive knives inside the removable handle.
That standridge angle plate is so cool. I’m sure they don’t give them away but I need to get one!
Great video. I really enjoy your content.
Good two part video. Nice job of explaining what you are doing.
It never ceases to amaze me the levels of precision machinists work with. Definitely not a job for a blind dog. ;)
Great stuff Stan! I love that I'm learning new things every time I see these videos! Thank you!
thanks for sharing stan......time is valuable
Good lesson, enjoyed...I have questions but I will call easier than typing
Thanks for the video Stan, I always learn something new from your videos.
I don't have a squareness gauge however I've discovered that my Jig grinder is very square so I use that.
Nice true-up work. I finally got the confidence to grind my magnetic chuck. It wasn't too bad (about a thou and a half in one spot), but the fence needed it. Only one bozo when I went to level off the top of the fence. You showing and explaining things again to Chuck a couple weeks back was helpful as are all your grinder vids.
Thanks, very nice work Stan. My guess is that your commercial customers get the same attention to detail as your personal shop work so it does not surprise me that you are getting calls all the time!
Very good job!
Hi Stan
after this calibration you have to send your "hammer" to the "hammer hall of fame" at Oxtool.
nice one as always!
GREAT VIDEO !!!
Damn! i learn some interesting things by watching your videos. Hard to give up Ironsides reruns, but sacrifices must be made.
Don't ya hate it when we sneak ole fashioned book learnin' in our videos?
TROUBLE WITH TRADING IT OFF A SCREEN COMPARED FROM A BOOK IS YOU MISS THE TASTE OF THE INK
Stan, Can you please show how to do the same corrections with 1-2-3 blocks and only a surface plate and squares. I am a hobby guy and don't have a cylindrical square or 90 degree surface plates. Great video I want to try it myself! Thanks!
JC S If you dont have anything other than your grinder and a surface plate, you basically just need a sharpie, some way to compare squareness, and some way to shim the part.
Stan - I keep watching your videos to learn stuff and I really like the type of videos that you make. I gots to ask - are you doing most of the metrology and grinding stuff as a hobby? I've seen quite a few of your videos building painting booths etc... Anyways, keep making videos - it seems that everybody really enjoys them :)
My shop work was a spin off of my field work, and it just kind of escalated from there :)
@@ShadonHKW where can I get that fancy granite angle plate with the threaded mounts and steel inserts??
Also where can I get that squareness checker you had your indicator in I am sure it is not cheap!! I use a very nice mitutoyo height gage that surprisingly holds very tight on vertical travel checking squareness but I know it is not good enough. I also made a magnetic cylinder that mounts to face and you can sweep end to end to get error. I cylindrically ground it and counterbored the magnet just below flush so it works but it is mimics easier when you can sweep the entire face. Thanks for the help and nice video
@shawn The insert block was an e-bay find, the square master was from an auction, both are very expensive new.
Hi mate. Now to find some jobs to use them on. ( O;
Wow bet those granite blocks would cost a pretty penny, did they make those for you? I've never seen granite blocks you could use for machining.
. I think Herman Schmidt stuff is only .0001-.0002
After you had decided which side was your best and you did your final match grind with both blocks why did you flip and grind your known best side off again?
Only did it for a 100% matched set, they were already packed together, just flipped and dusted a couple of 10ths off the first side.
interesting video patient is a vertue
The granite block seemed to be the same size as the 2-4-6 when grinding. How do you keep from grinding away at the granite when they are face to face and without some sort of parallel or spacer?
I believe he is taking advantage of the chamfers on the 2-4-6. The grind does not go all the way to the vertical surface. It only has to cover the top surface, which does not go all the way to the granite because of the chamfer. Not a *big* margin, but more than enough to do the operations.
I had roughly .030 clearance, when it gets down to these numbers, its as good as a mile :)
Ah, got it. Hard to see on that on video!
On the indicator, the stylus isn't parallel to the work so it doesn't give a true measurement. Despite this being a very small error, if you were officially certifying a piece for squareness would it be good enough or would you have to use a different setup?
Actually now I think about it, the further away from parallel, the greater the accuracy? Correct?
Also depends on the indicator. Interapid and B & S BesTest indicators (same indicators, different labels) are correct when the angle of contact is 12 degrees.
princebatswater The Mitutoyo paper work speaks of accuracy up to a 20* stylus angle.
Instead of saying "the further away from parallel, the greater the accuracy?" I suppose it should be something like "the further away from parallel, the error is in favour of more accuracy"?
The cosine error increases as you deviate from what the manufacturer specs. You actually get less accuracy once you start going off the "defined" measuring point, like your part is 0.01 off but your indicator shows 0.0002 (exaggerated). Mitutoyo and others have a table and math inside the manual of the indicator to correct that error if it needs to be corrected.
But, it doesn't matter much if there is a cosine error or not if shoot for zero error as you are doing comparison measurement to a known square. And to be fair, these sort of measurements are not done in a workshop table like Stan does to be certified to spec.