Nice job Stan! Excellent camera work. Terrific explanation. I have had experience grinding similar O.D. grinding with cross hatch on end face, but done with an O. D. Grinder, where you move the universal table to get any taper out, and produce the square cross hatch end face all in the same setup. We would undercut the side of the wheel (not the whole wheel) leaving a slight step produced by means of the undercut, leaving the dressed "step" to actually produce the face's cross hatch. After grinding the OD true round and parallel, we would kiss the part's face with the dressed step on the side of the wheel, and just let it spark out until a nice cross hatch appeared. No movement up and off the part necessary to produce the perfectly "square" crosshatch.
Stan, You and Robin bring a certain level of precision to your work. It helps me in machining my projects, none of my parts has gone to the moon. Yet! Lol. Keep up the great work. All 20-30 of you guys taught me how to machine. Now I need rotary tables, Etc.
Stan, would you be able to fit my 4x8 (Taft-Peirce) in there? She's a big girl - tipping the scales at about 30 lbs. 😓 Dennis is going to be a happy camper! Great job, as usual. 👍
@@ShadonHKW Yeah, I'm afraid so. 4" dia x 8" tall. Sorry, I forgot the Boyer Shultz is a 6 x 12. Looks bigger on camera than it actually is I guess. You know what they say about the camera adding 10 pounds... 😄
I saw the nice pool next to the lot with Stan’s shop. He has quite the compound out there in S Calif. I like his Calif disclaimer, I see that on everything. So everything causes cancer. Lmao!
Excellent video and explanation! You check the parallelism of your work axis by sweeping the base of your "lathe", but how do you know that the rotational axis of your work is 100% parallel to that base? As you know that your workpiece is parallel, you could have swept the actual work instead as you did with the top?
Quick question Stan - when you take your back fence off and put it back on, do you regrind it every time? If so, do you use a similar dress on the back of the wheel?
Which RADIAC wheel were you using to grind this square? Did you keep your set up on center with the spindle or to the left or right of center line of spindle? Very nice looking square when you were finished with it.
Thanks for the video! I have a question on the centers when this was made at the factory. (Or if you were to make one from scratch). Would they have made curved convex centers instead of straight 60 deg centers? The reason I ask is the process of drilling the center holes would be off a tiny amount in the axial and angular direction on each side of the rough stock. Let's say you hold the rough stock in a 3 jaw on a lathe, turn half the length of the OD, face, drill center. Then, change to a 4 jaw chuck, flip the stock over holding the half you just turned, and dial it in. Turn the 2nd half of the OD, face the second end, and center drill the second end. If you do it like that, there would probably still be some mismatch in the theoretical axial centerlines of the two drilled centers. I mean in the tenth's range. But for such a precision part like this, would that mismatch cause the part to oscillate slightly on the grinding centers? Whereas if convex centers were drilled on the lathe with the above process, they would run much truer on the grinding centers? Or am I overthinking this and it's not an issue? Or is it made even more precisely and the centers are even ground in somehow after rough lathe turning? I've never made a part like this before, and had this question in my head, and that's how I found your video.
@@ShadonHKW Would both ends be lapped simultaneously by something like spinning it in a bench center slowly with lapping compound on both dead centers? Or would each center be lapped individually with something like holding it in a lathe chuck and lapping each end separately? Thanks.
@@nickp4793 A milling machine works well with a dead center locked in a V block and another center in a collet (centered against each other) A little lapping paste and you're done in 5 minutes. I make my own centers from dead end mill shanks, the paste tears them up quickly but can be touched up many times before you have to discard them.
@@ShadonHKW Got it, thanks. My key question was do both centers need to be lapped simultaneously?, As this would ensure they are co-axial. Is that necessary and customarily done for a super high precision part such as this? Thanks, I really appreciate the video.
@@ShadonHKW indeed what editing software are you using I know power director has noise cancelation features . It seems like it's related to the grinder high-pitched squelch sort of a thing might be some kind of electro magnetic situation with the camera . Well at any rate just a heads up .
Nice set up there Stan. Max, I've looked for Radiac wheels in Aus ever since I saw them on Solid Rock and Stans channel. I'm basicly stuck with Saint Gobain/Norton which don't seem to have a wheel in their Australian inventory with his very open structure. Have you seen them in WA?
@@captcarlos I will be looking soon . I will try Abrasiflex . They have some ''p'' grade which is open porus . I will have to check them out . Failing that ,it will be Eastern States .
Id be fearful to take my most accurate Device in my Shop and muck with it?? I keep my Cylindrical Square in its wood box and cant see ANY reason to regrind it in a Home Hobby Type shop... Just dont understand why you are even doing it?
Sweet! My favorite kind of videos; "BACK TO THE GRIND"! This is the kind of information that you won't see anywhere else. Thanks Stan!
Stan Awesome video! This kind of stuff right up there as my favorite kind of work on CZcams!
Nice job Stan! Excellent camera work. Terrific explanation.
I have had experience grinding similar O.D. grinding with cross hatch on end face, but done with an O. D. Grinder, where you move the universal table to get any taper out, and produce the square cross hatch end face all in the same setup.
We would undercut the side of the wheel (not the whole wheel) leaving a slight step produced by means of the undercut, leaving the dressed "step" to actually produce the face's cross hatch.
After grinding the OD true round and parallel, we would kiss the part's face with the dressed step on the side of the wheel, and just let it spark out until a nice cross hatch appeared. No movement up and off the part necessary to produce the perfectly "square" crosshatch.
Great job Stan I've only seen a handful of cylinder squares. This was a really good video stan
Nice, sue can't be ham-fisted at that level of precision. Thanks for the video
Craig
Stan, You and Robin bring a certain level of precision to your work. It helps me in machining my projects, none of my parts has gone to the moon. Yet! Lol. Keep up the great work. All 20-30 of you guys taught me how to machine. Now I need rotary tables, Etc.
Thanks for the video! And thanks for hosting the Bash! It was fun to watch hopefully one day I'll make it out, I even won something this year.
Beautiful and accurate job Stan! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Stan. I've never seen this done before. Also thank you for a great time at the Bash.
Outstanding work Stan. Thank you for sharing.
Great job, retired from Norton 32 years, I was in the super abrasives part
Quite impressed. I don't think I would have attempted that on a Boyer-Schultz. Good job
Thanks for sharing this Stan, really enjoyed watching. Had not seen a Cylinder Square before. Amazing work.
Very nicely done. Your powered centering fixture works very well. So smooth!
Great job on the regrind Stan. It doesn't get much better than this. Beautiful finish on both the sides and the bottom.
Take Care and Stay Safe.
Bob
Stan has the coolest tools/machines and knows how to use them! 👍👍
Thank you Stan explaining how to deal with all the sources of errors
Great discussion/demonstration and video production
Wow! I liked it! Thank you for sharing this work. Best, Job
The square came out great! Nicely done, sir.
Thank you Stan...!
Crazy NASA perfection grind,,lov watching all your videos and learning every time I visit,,thx for taking tome to share 👍
That was a really informative video. Thanks for sharing Stan.
Hello Stan,
Good work and the whole process very well explained... Thank you...
Take care.
Paul,,
Nice work Stan. Gotta get one of those Harig Lectric Centers.
Nice job Stan.
Stan, would you be able to fit my 4x8 (Taft-Peirce) in there? She's a big girl - tipping the scales at about 30 lbs. 😓
Dennis is going to be a happy camper! Great job, as usual. 👍
8" high? My machine travel is only 6".
@@ShadonHKW Yeah, I'm afraid so. 4" dia x 8" tall. Sorry, I forgot the Boyer Shultz is a 6 x 12. Looks bigger on camera than it actually is I guess. You know what they say about the camera adding 10 pounds... 😄
Dennis is a Happy camper!
Thanks for sharing!
nice job Stan. That is some super helpful content.
If I find one I may have to send it to the bar z spa
I saw the nice pool next to the lot with Stan’s shop. He has quite the compound out there in S Calif. I like his Calif disclaimer, I see that on everything. So everything causes cancer. Lmao!
Excellent video and explanation! You check the parallelism of your work axis by sweeping the base of your "lathe", but how do you know that the rotational axis of your work is 100% parallel to that base? As you know that your workpiece is parallel, you could have swept the actual work instead as you did with the top?
have a nice idea good job
at the end , I thought , this is the point where I would drop it. nice video
Hey Stan, just a thank you for my 50-50 win I received in the mail 👍
Nice job! I like the wrist band.
A masterclass in how it is done. 👍
Interesting process. To get any more accurate would need extremely expensive tooling
Quick question Stan - when you take your back fence off and put it back on, do you regrind it every time? If so, do you use a similar dress on the back of the wheel?
Yes I do, they never go back the same way twice.
Love it
Nice job 👍🏻
Which RADIAC wheel were you using to grind this square? Did you keep your set up on center with the spindle or to the left or right of center line of spindle? Very nice looking square when you were finished with it.
Nice job..
How many tool holders did you get you worked that guy
I really enjoyed the video, even though I don’t have a grinder, at this time…
Wow
Thanks for the video, Stan. Any idea where I can get a test bar? Thanks
Edge technologies make a couple of different sizes.
Thanks for the video! I have a question on the centers when this was made at the factory. (Or if you were to make one from scratch). Would they have made curved convex centers instead of straight 60 deg centers? The reason I ask is the process of drilling the center holes would be off a tiny amount in the axial and angular direction on each side of the rough stock. Let's say you hold the rough stock in a 3 jaw on a lathe, turn half the length of the OD, face, drill center. Then, change to a 4 jaw chuck, flip the stock over holding the half you just turned, and dial it in. Turn the 2nd half of the OD, face the second end, and center drill the second end. If you do it like that, there would probably still be some mismatch in the theoretical axial centerlines of the two drilled centers. I mean in the tenth's range. But for such a precision part like this, would that mismatch cause the part to oscillate slightly on the grinding centers? Whereas if convex centers were drilled on the lathe with the above process, they would run much truer on the grinding centers? Or am I overthinking this and it's not an issue? Or is it made even more precisely and the centers are even ground in somehow after rough lathe turning? I've never made a part like this before, and had this question in my head, and that's how I found your video.
Typically the centers would be lapped after hardening and then grind the OD to match.
@@ShadonHKW Would both ends be lapped simultaneously by something like spinning it in a bench center slowly with lapping compound on both dead centers? Or would each center be lapped individually with something like holding it in a lathe chuck and lapping each end separately? Thanks.
@@nickp4793 A milling machine works well with a dead center locked in a V block and another center in a collet (centered against each other) A little lapping paste and you're done in 5 minutes. I make my own centers from dead end mill shanks, the paste tears them up quickly but can be touched up many times before you have to discard them.
@@ShadonHKW Got it, thanks. My key question was do both centers need to be lapped simultaneously?, As this would ensure they are co-axial. Is that necessary and customarily done for a super high precision part such as this? Thanks, I really appreciate the video.
Good Stuff Stan.....👍👍
20:40 could the coolant be 'too cold' where it warps parts on you as you're grinding ~23:35 woooo
I mix small batches of coolant with lukewarm tap water, I don't have the luxury of a climate-controlled shop.
Please tell me what the Cylinder Square was/is designed for? Where was/is it used for?
It is used on a surface plate to check other parts for squareness (visually)
Stan could not work out how you lowered and raised the tailstock till you ground the base !
Christopher for down under
Great Video! Thanks for sharing. I need to make a tiny hammer now:o)
People will scoff at your tiny hammer, but it is you that gets the last laugh. BTW, a sharpie works just as well. The hammer is just cooler.
I’ll be back every day
Nice knockers on your knocker Stan ;)
Isn't this supossed to be a famaly show?
I don't like to complain but ya got some wicked noise going on.
Ice maker? Air compressor? Evap cooler? Dust collector? Coolant spray? Grinder spindle? They all add to the symphony.
@@ShadonHKW indeed what editing software are you using I know power director has noise cancelation features . It seems like it's related to the grinder high-pitched squelch sort of a thing might be some kind of electro magnetic situation with the camera . Well at any rate just a heads up .
Stan did you make your cylinder grinder.
No, that's a Harig lectric spin
Nice job Stan . That looks like a VOS wheel , what grade is it ? Cheers .
That was a 60 J VOS wheel
@@ShadonHKW Thanks .
Nice set up there Stan.
Max, I've looked for Radiac wheels in Aus ever since I saw them on Solid Rock and Stans channel.
I'm basicly stuck with Saint Gobain/Norton which don't seem to have a wheel in their Australian inventory with his very open structure.
Have you seen them in WA?
@@captcarlos I will be looking soon . I will try Abrasiflex . They have some ''p'' grade which is open porus . I will have to check them out . Failing that ,it will be Eastern States .
Stan, is this the grinder that got turned on during the Bash without the RPC on?
Nope, that one is still dead. Just need some time to work on it.
Hiya Stan
Square ness
I dont it will fit if you make it square.
Im 98.7% sure you made the cylinder grinding lathe
WHY put it in the lathe hit it with 600 sand paper done BUT that wouldn't be a video i get it
If it ain’t broke…
Id be fearful to take my most accurate Device in my Shop and muck with it?? I keep my Cylindrical Square in its wood box and cant see ANY reason to regrind it in a Home Hobby Type shop... Just dont understand why you are even doing it?
You deleted my comments hahahahahaha that is hilarious
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