Great video. My tools usually get a cross hatch finish from rotating part. Six of one, half dozen of another i guess. Going to check out some more of your videos now. TY
Great way to check the "V"s for alignment and centeredness without needing a master V-block to hold the blocks. I may not be doing my own reconditioning, but at least now I can check to see which of my v-block are accurate (and whether sets are matching).
We had the Schmidt mag sines with the screws and pivoting clamps. All you need to do is tighten down lightly finger tight. One day I saw one of the younger guys cranking the screw down like it was a head bolt. I told him keep turning you'll snap those ceramic jo blocks for sure.
Hi Stan, I followed the link, I think this method is better because you don't to dress the angle on the wheel. Now I'm looking for a magnetic sine plate. I do have a magnetic V block maybe I'll try that with my smaller V block set. Thanks for sharing
Always enjoyable watching you at the surface grinder and granite plate. Would like to see you bring a T Square back into square. Mines taken a nock and at 10" it's 0.0022" out of square when I check inside to outside faces (0.0044" total error). Not much on CZcams for correcting them once you fine them out. All the best Stan, I'm back to scraping my machine ways. Mat
I purchased a used compound sine plate last month. I failed to tell the seller to put a piece of anti fretting material under each sine bar. I received the plate with fretting erosion damage to both sine bars. You can see the wear at each of these. Amazing what a bouncing semi truck does to precision surfaces.
Wow. Absolutely gorgeous finish on those coming straight off the grinder! It still blows my mind to see someone take TENTHS off of a part. Outstanding job Stan - thanks for showing this. I liked the tip about keeping a piece of paper under your sine plate roller too when it is being stored. But are you ever concerned with the acid content found in some paper, or perhaps it holding moisture? I always store my 1" mics with a gap between the anvil and the rod. I've never heard of anyone using paper in a mic?
interesting use of springs on the sine plate..how much tension should those provide? (or read as, I always have a problem getting the plate to sit on the gage blocks, and not moving. any tips? thanks Stan for another great video!
Excellent work and finish! How realistic would it be to do the bottom of the v like you did and use a dressed wheel to side wheel the other side at the same time?
Side wheel + flat grind? Thats a lot of contact area, not to mention all the accuracy is in the downfeed, Y axis is sloppy and only has .001 resolution on the dials.
This was excellent. I need to re-grind my v-blocks but I don’t have a fancy Suburban tools sine plate. Is there another way to fixture this up accurately?
@@ShadonHKW Ah, good idea. In order to do V blocks in pairs I guess I’d have to find a pretty long one. At least now I know how to measure them up. Great video, learned a ton. BTW, just got your Hotshot 360. Looking forward to to having some fun with that.
Nice work Stan...sure which you showed the tramping of the fixture/fence, do you think the removal of the parts (pulling) disturbed the gage blocks? Curious, did you check the blocks with with the blocks aligned with a rod in the alignment hole?
I assume in the second question you were asking about the hole that goes through each of the blocks that you can put a rod through in order to align them? Was curious on that as well...or often people use them in real usage?
Those are threaded holes, A piece of all thread and a sleeve is what would be needed to make a spacer between them, I honestly dont think I've ever seen them used this way.
Thanks Uncle Stan, so many questions...which one to ask. When you're dealing with such small increments, how are the dials on you surface grinder set up to hit those tolerances? Thanks Again...Chuck
The down feed has a vernier for 10ths, so not too hard to hit as long as the backlash is always removed, I am on the prowl for a single scale DRO that reads down in the millionths. The DRO would be absolute and I could ignore backlash.
Got it, I will add that to my email alerts for eBay, and my own searches on CL, and send you links if they look solid. Thanks for the answers...Aloha, Chuck
I wouldn't send you any links for that, LOL...I'm guessing you've already got your search set up for what you're looking for, do you use the email alerts to help? I've just begun to use that feature, so I'm unsure as to how well it works...
My back is hurting looking at you hunched over the grinder. Does it bother you? How long did it take to regrind these and what would you charge to do it? A new set of Starrett v-blocks at KBC is $607 CDN. I assume they were not free for the used ones.
I usually sit on a stool for flat work, but working into a wall like this needed my full attention. I only had a couple of hours into these from start to finish, if I didn't have to fuss around with a camera, it would probably be cut down to an hour and a half.
I hope you can explain one thing. You touch off one side of the block, zero the dial and then ground say 6 10th's to cleanup the surface. Then flip the block, touch off, zero and then grind 6 10ths on the second side to keep the grind even. How do you know that the touch off height is the same on both sides? If you are not grinding to the exact same height off the table wont the sides be uneven? I'm a newbie to this so probably am missing something obvious.
Hey Rob, I'm just being careful not plow into it right from the start, the actual matching comes from the final grind, when I said I was hitting my "mark" that was a sharpie mark on the down feed from the previous flip. Does that make sense?
aaaa aaaa aaaaaa aaaaa aaaaa aaaaaaa, wenn man keine probleme hat dann macht man sich welche, du solltest versuchen vernünftig zu sprechen. ist ja nervig.
Great work. I spent 37 years of my life in a US Army calibration lab. I’m learning how much I didn’t know from watching your videos. Thanks..
Great video. My tools usually get a cross hatch finish from rotating part. Six of one, half dozen of another i guess. Going to check out some more of your videos now. TY
Continuing back through the archives.....lot of great information in this one. You have the best grinding videos on CZcams- Thanks!
Robert
Great way to check the "V"s for alignment and centeredness without needing a master V-block to hold the blocks. I may not be doing my own reconditioning, but at least now I can check to see which of my v-block are accurate (and whether sets are matching).
We had the Schmidt mag sines with the screws and pivoting clamps.
All you need to do is tighten down lightly finger tight.
One day I saw one of the younger guys cranking the screw down like it was a head bolt.
I told him keep turning you'll snap those ceramic jo blocks for sure.
Nice tip on measuring a v-block. Thanks
Thanks Stan for all of your great videos !
Appreciate all of your efforts.
Dan
Great video Stan. Thanks for the tip on using the 120 grit wheel.
It was a 150, I misspoke in the beginning. But limit your down feeds to .0002 maximum on these wheels.
Hi Stan,
I followed the link, I think this method is better because you don't to dress the angle on the wheel. Now I'm looking for a magnetic sine plate. I do have a magnetic V block maybe I'll try that with my smaller V block set.
Thanks for sharing
Super job on the grinding. Great tip on using the springs for more constant pressure on the gage blocks.
Some sine plates are very tight, I have noticed a small (barely measurable) amount of spring back on the tight ones.
Now I know what I looked like for fifty years at work, LOL!
Always enjoyable watching you at the surface grinder and granite plate. Would like to see you bring a T Square back into square. Mines taken a nock and at 10" it's 0.0022" out of square when I check inside to outside faces (0.0044" total error). Not much on CZcams for correcting them once you fine them out. All the best Stan, I'm back to scraping my machine ways. Mat
Thanks for the tinted bezel, it helps
Ha ha .. blue saran wrap!
I purchased a used compound sine plate last month. I failed to tell the seller to put a piece of anti fretting material under each sine bar. I received the plate with fretting erosion damage to both sine bars. You can see the wear at each of these. Amazing what a bouncing semi truck does to precision surfaces.
Hi Stan,
Nice Job! Better than new!! Love that Suburban.
Take Care,
Reid
You have an incoming (finally)Thanks for stopping by.
Yep, got the notification. No problem, Stan. I know you are busy with getting things organized for the Bash.
Ha ha, There's a lot of words to describe Bar Z right now, organized isn't one of them :-D
I was amazed you had time to make this video, which, by the way, was great! I can only imagine how hectic things are there....
Wow. Absolutely gorgeous finish on those coming straight off the grinder! It still blows my mind to see someone take TENTHS off of a part. Outstanding job Stan - thanks for showing this. I liked the tip about keeping a piece of paper under your sine plate roller too when it is being stored. But are you ever concerned with the acid content found in some paper, or perhaps it holding moisture? I always store my 1" mics with a gap between the anvil and the rod. I've never heard of anyone using paper in a mic?
Super job, Stan!
Nice work Stan.
Nice project. Thanks for sharing
Great video. Thanks
Great lesson, now I will have to try it on Pierre's Blocks... LOL (evil grin)
Nicely done Stan! Looks like you cut your finger tearing the front of your house off...
interesting use of springs on the sine plate..how much tension should those provide? (or read as, I always have a problem getting the plate to sit on the gage blocks, and not moving. any tips?
thanks Stan for another great video!
great video Stan
Excellent work and finish! How realistic would it be to do the bottom of the v like you did and use a dressed wheel to side wheel the other side at the same time?
Side wheel + flat grind? Thats a lot of contact area, not to mention all the accuracy is in the downfeed, Y axis is sloppy and only has .001 resolution on the dials.
This was excellent. I need to re-grind my v-blocks but I don’t have a fancy Suburban tools sine plate. Is there another way to fixture this up accurately?
A nice accurate magnetic V block would serve you well. but your work is only going to be as accurate as the mag.
@@ShadonHKW Ah, good idea. In order to do V blocks in pairs I guess I’d have to find a pretty long one. At least now I know how to measure them up. Great video, learned a ton. BTW, just got your Hotshot 360. Looking forward to to having some fun with that.
Nice work Stan...sure which you showed the tramping of the fixture/fence, do you think the removal of the parts (pulling) disturbed the gage blocks? Curious, did you check the blocks with with the blocks aligned with a rod in the alignment hole?
I just did a tram and dress like we did on your Reid, I don't understand your second question. Thanks for stopping in.
I assume in the second question you were asking about the hole that goes through each of the blocks that you can put a rod through in order to align them? Was curious on that as well...or often people use them in real usage?
Those are threaded holes, A piece of all thread and a sleeve is what would be needed to make a spacer between them, I honestly dont think I've ever seen them used this way.
Electrical Tape Band Aid... Been there, done that... lol
Do you balance your grinding wheels? Or do you find it not necessary for these small wheels?
Thanks
Nice job.
outer extremities? is that like redundant redundancies?
Stan, or anyone else... where do those Locline lights come from. Make those? Tried to find them but didn't find that style specifically.
I made my own from LocLine and little LED desk lamps from IKEA.
czcams.com/video/WY3jtoXH9WQ/video.html
Thanks Uncle Stan, so many questions...which one to ask. When you're dealing with such small increments, how are the dials on you surface grinder set up to hit those tolerances? Thanks Again...Chuck
The down feed has a vernier for 10ths, so not too hard to hit as long as the backlash is always removed, I am on the prowl for a single scale DRO that reads down in the millionths. The DRO would be absolute and I could ignore backlash.
Got it, I will add that to my email alerts for eBay, and my own searches on CL, and send you links if they look solid. Thanks for the answers...Aloha, Chuck
You can pick up rusty junk of e-bay pretty cheap.
I wouldn't send you any links for that, LOL...I'm guessing you've already got your search set up for what you're looking for, do you use the email alerts to help? I've just begun to use that feature, so I'm unsure as to how well it works...
I use IFTTT to automate my searches. It works great. I got my lathe that way.
That's a heckuva spark shower around 20 minutes in, and again starting the correction at 25 minutes; is that really from a .0002 max cut?
Sure was .0002 was my max down feed :)
Where did those blocks come from, as the underside has a Finnish last name? :)
My back is hurting looking at you hunched over the grinder. Does it bother you? How long did it take to regrind these and what would you charge to do it? A new set of Starrett v-blocks at KBC is $607 CDN. I assume they were not free for the used ones.
I usually sit on a stool for flat work, but working into a wall like this needed my full attention. I only had a couple of hours into these from start to finish, if I didn't have to fuss around with a camera, it would probably be cut down to an hour and a half.
So about $150 plus shipping?
Would you be able to grind a new 60 degree on a lathe live center taken apart
Probably, as long as it fits in a 5-C collet.
yes i believe it will Patrickjmazzone51@gmail.com
Yes it will fit in a 5c collet could you email me and let me know how much
Electrician's bandages... black electrical tape :}
You forgot coolant proof :)
Abs glue works great too.
I hope you can explain one thing. You touch off one side of the block, zero the dial and then ground say 6 10th's to cleanup the surface. Then flip the block, touch off, zero and then grind 6 10ths on the second side to keep the grind even. How do you know that the touch off height is the same on both sides? If you are not grinding to the exact same height off the table wont the sides be uneven? I'm a newbie to this so probably am missing something obvious.
Hey Rob,
I'm just being careful not plow into it right from the start, the actual matching comes from the final grind, when I said I was hitting my "mark" that was a sharpie mark on the down feed from the previous flip. Does that make sense?
aaaa aaaa aaaaaa aaaaa aaaaa aaaaaaa, wenn man keine probleme hat dann macht man sich welche, du solltest versuchen vernünftig zu sprechen. ist ja nervig.
Goggles = good.
No respirator = bad. :-(
ExtantFrodo2
The safety natzi is here!!
ExtantFrodo2
Worry about your self and your own lungs.
How about that??
Warning others of the hazards of grinding is just good. Or what did you lose from him/her giving information?