This is great! Along with the mill, lathe, and surface grinder I got from my father by way of my brother, I got a LARGE set of V-blocks (4-5" in the shortest direction). My brother didn't know what they were for so he used them as wheel chocks. They're horribly rusted! I can't bear to toss them but they need a lot of work and I haven't been sure how to approach it. Now I have a fairly good idea. Thanks!!
If you wet the stone with very mild soapy water (couple of drops in 8 oz) them place the paper down, you can flatten the paper almost as well as if you had used spray adhesive. Squeegee the water out, and it will stay flat and in place until the job is done.
I'm not a professional machinist and I always wondered how the surface grinder machine compensates for the wear out of the grinding wheel in the process of grinding to keep the grinding depth constant over precision ground surfaces.
Only the leading edge of the wheel is cutting. This leading edge then rounds off and the cutting edge is further back along the wheel. You have the entire width of the wheel to become this "leading edge" before you risk losing a flat finish.
What grit is your grinding wheel and also what type of material is it? Do you think that maybe the height difference could be from someone else grinding them before you to clean the one that is shorter? Why wouldn't you bolt the two blocks together before grinding them?
Shadon HKW Thanks. I haven't had my hands on one in quite awhile and wasn't sure. I have the perfect mill for roughing out a batch of them. Of course, any good horizontal is perfect for that. Just have to put my grinder together. Thanks, John
Hi Stan, thanks for a very educating vid. I was wondering, by grinding the first sides for height and parallelism you had to take of more from one block than from the other, didn't you changed the relation of the depth of the groove and the location of the Vee to this ground sides. Let's take an extreme example, suppose one block was 10mm higher than the other. By grinding them like you did this block would not have a groove anymore at all and the location of the vee would be very much to one side of that block. so you would end up with to blocks very parallel and of the same height but with a very different configuration. Or am I missing something which is very plausible since I am not a pro on grinding, not even an amateur..... cheers Teun
Thanks! I got cheap parallels and they have a black coating on the sides that i'd like to remove. I tried regular sandpaper but the grit wore off fast.
Could it be years of wear on the machines? No, that makes no sense when you account for specs. and tolerance limits. Interesting, but without knowing their life story I's afraid all will be speculation. Happy New Year Bill...Aloha, Chuck
I truthfully respect your grinding renown. You are without equal on this field :-) Can I still ask: The first grind setup in this video, when the v blocks had different widths, and you took all difference from one side only, didn't you move the v groove centerline off to one side on the block that was the wider before? But that would equalize when you grind one side of the groove against the grinder shoulder. There'd just be more to remove on one side
Now I know you know what you are talking about when you said you had to check for square, so many people, even in regrind situation think they can just lay each side down....not so!
Always educational watching how you go about squaring things up.
This is great! Along with the mill, lathe, and surface grinder I got from my father by way of my brother, I got a LARGE set of V-blocks (4-5" in the shortest direction). My brother didn't know what they were for so he used them as wheel chocks. They're horribly rusted! I can't bear to toss them but they need a lot of work and I haven't been sure how to approach it. Now I have a fairly good idea. Thanks!!
This has superb level of useful detail, really excellent ! THANKS for machining this !
Enjoyed!
Like this stuff. I like to see you get down to the ten thou.
If you wet the stone with very mild soapy water (couple of drops in 8 oz) them place the paper down, you can flatten the paper almost as well as if you had used spray adhesive. Squeegee the water out, and it will stay flat and in place until the job is done.
Shouldn't be to hard to modify the letter "r" to look like the letter "n" to finish of that set of "Stannett's"
I'm not a professional machinist and I always wondered how the surface grinder machine compensates for the wear out of the grinding wheel in the process of grinding to keep the grinding depth constant over precision ground surfaces.
Only the leading edge of the wheel is cutting. This leading edge then rounds off and the cutting edge is further back along the wheel. You have the entire width of the wheel to become this "leading edge" before you risk losing a flat finish.
Great video Stan
What grit is your grinding wheel and also what type of material is it? Do you think that maybe the height difference could be from someone else grinding them before you to clean the one that is shorter? Why wouldn't you bolt the two blocks together before grinding them?
GREAT VIDEO !!
WATER (( UNDER )) WET & DRY = FLAT + STICKION .
Hey Stan
Are the rectangular slots milled or ground?
My brain is whirling. Might be a good scratch made project to sharpen my skills on.
Thanks,
John
Just milled, they are for a horseshoe clamp (which I dont have) to secure round stock.
Shadon HKW
Thanks. I haven't had my hands on one in quite awhile and wasn't sure.
I have the perfect mill for roughing out a batch of them. Of course, any good horizontal is perfect for that.
Just have to put my grinder together.
Thanks,
John
Never seen one that big and long!!!!
Best way would be set up in precision grinding vice or angle plate, more tricky because of clamping? Then grind perpendicular?
I've done it that way before too, still very accurate.
Hi Stan,
thanks for a very educating vid. I was wondering, by grinding the first sides for height and parallelism you had to take of more from one block than from the other, didn't you changed the relation of the depth of the groove and the location of the Vee to this ground sides. Let's take an extreme example, suppose one block was 10mm higher than the other. By grinding them like you did this block would not have a groove anymore at all and the location of the vee would be very much to one side of that block. so you would end up with to blocks very parallel and of the same height but with a very different configuration.
Or am I missing something which is very plausible since I am not a pro on grinding, not even an amateur.....
cheers
Teun
Yes, we are putting the V groove out of center, but that will all go away when we grind the Vee.
OK can't wait! and what about the groove for the clamps?
Those grooves are just milled loosey goosey fits, clamps dont fit tight in any direction.
I see white wall 23:57 or so on the lower surface against the cylinder. How much should that equate to?
What kind of sandpaper is that? Brand, grit, abrasive?
Hiya Josh, 600 grit carborundum, wet and dry, 3M brand. For added fun, google lapping film.
Thanks! I got cheap parallels and they have a black coating on the sides that i'd like to remove. I tried regular sandpaper but the grit wore off fast.
use magic marker to square
They must have changed their design over the years for them to be that far off?
Could it be years of wear on the machines? No, that makes no sense when you account for specs. and tolerance limits. Interesting, but without knowing their life story I's afraid all will be speculation. Happy New Year Bill...Aloha, Chuck
One could have had a light regrind over the years too, no way of knowing.
I truthfully respect your grinding renown. You are without equal on this field :-)
Can I still ask: The first grind setup in this video, when the v blocks had different widths, and you took all difference from one side only, didn't you move the v groove centerline off to one side on the block that was the wider before?
But that would equalize when you grind one side of the groove against the grinder shoulder. There'd just be more to remove on one side
Yes, it throws the V off center, but we will be truing it up anyway in part #2 :)
I hope that you will make the lengths equal to have true duplicates. you say orthopedic lapping. do you mean orthogonal ?
Ha ha .. its kind of a joke around the shop, whenever we impose our will on a piece of metal to change its shape, its "orthopedic"
Shadon HKW ok. as usual, I learned something from your video.
are you going to square the ends up to the new v grooves?
I did match and square them, didn't film this, sorry.
Wow! That's a sine magnetic chuck?
6x12 sine plate with mag, 10 inch roll to roll.
Curious about the wheel specs..
Sorry, I usually call it out during the video, but sometimes it gets edited out. Radiac 46J ruby blend.
Parallelism
Ha ha .. easy for you to say ...
Now I know you know what you are talking about when you said you had to check for square, so many people, even in regrind situation think they can just lay each side down....not so!
lol i is first.