Sewing Lacy Victorian Underwear || My 1890s Met Museum Inspired Combinations

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  • čas přidán 7. 03. 2019
  • #Costube
    After years of dreaming about the Metropolitan Museum 1890s Combinations I finally had the gumption to make a pair of my own!
    I am thrilled with how they turned out and I am really looking forward to what the rest of this La Belle Epoque Sewing Adventure will bring!
    ********************************************************
    MENTIONS IN VIDEO:
    Bernadette Banners Beautiful Combinations
    • Making Some Frilly Vic...
    Shoes Worn at the end are The American Duchess "Colette" Button Boots ( 1890-1920)www.american-duchess.com/edwa...
    Authentic Victorian Dressmaking Techniques (Page 7)
    books.google.ca/books?id=Vd7C...
    The following links are affiliate links, so if you decide to purchase one of the items below I may receive a small commission. It doesn't change the price of the item, and these funds help me to continue to purchase materials for new projects! Thank you!
    SEWING BOOKS
    The Voice of Fashion: 79 Turn-of-the-Century Patterns
    🇨🇦 amzn.to/2tiqW3b
    🇺🇸amzn.to/2GoH9vf
    Authentic Victorian Patterns: A Complete Lady's Wardrobe
    🇨🇦 amzn.to/2WVYsJW
    🇺🇸amzn.to/2t6jCHW
    The History of Underclothes
    🇨🇦 amzn.to/2E32FEu
    🇺🇸amzn.to/2t3YNwJ
    Authentic Victorian Dressmaking Techniques
    🇨🇦 amzn.to/2VKKRDW
    🇺🇸amzn.to/2SRpQFO
    SEWING TOOLS:
    SunStar Industrial Sewing Machine
    Janome Domestic HD-3000 Sewing Machine
    18" Clear Ruler
    🇨🇦amzn.to/2XUuN4C
    🇺🇸amzn.to/2EOocj9
    French Curve
    Clover Leather Thimble
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    🇺🇸amzn.to/2Ur5Rj3
    Clover Loop Pressing Bar
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    🇺🇸amzn.to/2VLSgTK
    Sleeve Board
    Shark Profession Steam Iron
    🇨🇦amzn.to/2VL7h82
    FILMING EQUIPMENT:
    Camera: Canon Rebel T5i DSLR Kit 18-55mm
    (similar model Canon T6i DSLR Kit 🇨🇦amzn.to/2WtCJJl)
    Lens: Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM 🇨🇦amzn.to/2Ws9Q06
    Mics:
    Blue Yeti - Silver (voiceover)
    🇨🇦amzn.to/2WtNZp6
    PowerDeWise Professional Grade Lavalier Lapel Microphone
    🇨🇦amzn.to/2MK6cuc
    MATERIALS:
    White cotton rayon blend 2.5 m.
    Insertion Lace: 8 m.
    Ruffle Lace: 3 m.
    Eyelet ribbon lace: 3 m.
    Lilac Ribbon 4 m.
    Organza Ribbon: 1m.
    8 small buttons
    Cotton thread
    My mock up material is the Ikea Bomull fabric. it is very cheap and has little to no stretch which is wonderful for mockups
    IMAGE CREDIT
    Combinations, 1890-1900, The Metropolitan Museum of Art
    www.metmuseum.org/art/collect...
    OTHER SOCIAL MEDIA ACCOUNTS
    Facebook: / enchantedrosecostumes
    Instagram: / enchanted.rose.costumes
    Pinterest: www.pinterest.ca/enchantedros...
    Ko-fi: ko-fi.com/enchantedrosecostumes

Komentáře • 182

  • @trulytart3534
    @trulytart3534 Před 5 lety +103

    I'm not sure if this has been mentioned but there is a striking pair of black combinations in the V&A museum with the softest pale pink ribbon insertion in the lace. I had the pleasure of seeing them in person and they bowled me over in the way only beautifully made undergarments from another century can.

    • @Variety_jane
      @Variety_jane Před 4 lety +3

      A quick google search has left me in awe as well 💜

    • @EnchantedRoseCostumes
      @EnchantedRoseCostumes  Před 4 lety +9

      I've seen that pair and I looooove them 😍😍😍

    • @kaysiahollitt2143
      @kaysiahollitt2143 Před 3 lety +4

      My eyes were not prepared for such a sight as these combinations. They are everything my goth heart desires, except maybe crimson or grey ribbon instead of pink. Thank you Tart, my heart will never again be free to romp until I make these mine.

  • @JustAnotherBuckyLover
    @JustAnotherBuckyLover Před 4 lety +27

    I legitimately have no idea why I have started watching historical garment making. I can't sew. I'm not into history. I don't understand half of the terms being used (because I'm a knitter, not a sewer!) and yet here I am, gradually collecting people with far more patience and deftness than I have! Gorgeous work though, I love it! 😍

  • @anniebrahe3301
    @anniebrahe3301 Před 4 lety +52

    "Piecing is period"! Catch me later, I'm going to embroider this onto something. It's too good to let go!

  • @frank7411
    @frank7411 Před 5 lety +86

    So pretty!!! Between your video and Bernadette's I'm really inspired to try making something with insertion lace... maybe a Victorian inspired blouse!

    • @bertuccigirl
      @bertuccigirl Před 5 lety +1

      Francine Kloh I feel the same way!

    • @Elemiriel
      @Elemiriel Před 5 lety +1

      @Francine Kloh Ooooh a blouse!! I might need to do that too!

  • @paisley293
    @paisley293 Před 4 lety +10

    These combinations turned out lovely!

  • @aloras405
    @aloras405 Před 4 lety +1

    Ooooo! I love the purple ribbon touch.

  • @GwynHUMPHREYS
    @GwynHUMPHREYS Před 6 dny

    This has definitely encouraged me to buy myself a dress form.

  • @dipsers
    @dipsers Před 3 lety +1

    I know this is hella old, but I just wanted to say, that lining the lace to make it sturdier is such a GENIUS idea!!🤯

  • @staceymarkum3873
    @staceymarkum3873 Před 4 lety +4

    I started out watching Bernadette and have found you through the secret Santa. What I love about your combinations are the size. I too am a slightly fluffier gal and I thought Bernadette's combinations wouldn't look good on me because of our size differences. After seeing you in a pair, and how lovely you look, l now think I might tackle them too. Thank you for your video and I look forward to watching more of them!

  • @anniebrahe3301
    @anniebrahe3301 Před 4 lety +1

    Slipknotting the button loops is super cool! I had no idea this was a technique that existed.

  • @Side-Quest-Workshop
    @Side-Quest-Workshop Před 3 lety +3

    I am a sewing novice who is in the process of absolutely devouring your video playlists, so don't mind my belated commentary. I'm really drawn to the styles of the 1890's to early 1900's, and my intention is to create my very own "walking outfit" from foundation to finish. I've been watching quite a few of these Met-inspired combinations videos, and I love how you created yours. Those mitered corners! The work you did there was so impressive. I learned so much from this one video; it definitely requires a re-watch. I'm going to start taking notes! Your workroom setup is also intuitively designed. I like the use of cork board on the tabletop. /end word-salad

  • @mothersuperior6751
    @mothersuperior6751 Před 4 lety +1

    I am quite taken with the cork board used to help gather. I have never seen that before. But can see how very helpful it was.

  • @lynn858
    @lynn858 Před 4 lety +3

    I am revising my plan for doing lace on a skirt to be insertion lace. Probably takes longer, also probably does what I want better. Thanks for the idea.

  • @annepahler8726
    @annepahler8726 Před měsícem

    Stunning and beautiful. Thank you for sharing.

  • @megkaehler6793
    @megkaehler6793 Před 5 lety +13

    Oh man the black pair would be lovely 😍 making me want to make my own ❤️

  • @rachelalexander8088
    @rachelalexander8088 Před 4 lety +1

    I'm quite intrigued by your comment about black combinations. Now I need a set of combinations.

  • @UYTRELLO
    @UYTRELLO Před 2 lety

    You made all the process look easier than i thought it was. The lace insertions are incredibly effective. Congratulations!

  • @Lammstrellicon
    @Lammstrellicon Před 4 lety +1

    These in black would be so pretty!! I kind of want to try it too, humm

  • @allieg6401
    @allieg6401 Před 5 lety +18

    I was thinking from the thumbnail it reminded me of Bernadette's combinations... same inspo and you mention her!
    Very beautiful!
    Would be perfect for costume collage! 😍

  • @DAYBROK3
    @DAYBROK3 Před 4 lety +1

    its amazing how three people can take the same inspiration and come up with three such different outfits.

  • @leadupont8588
    @leadupont8588 Před 4 lety +1

    Your explanations about insertion lace are very helpful ! Thank you !

  • @JaleaWard
    @JaleaWard Před 5 lety +6

    So pretty! Now I need to add combinations to my ever expanding list...

  • @evetteurbino
    @evetteurbino Před 5 lety +8

    I love this lace Victorian underwear. I saw Bernadette's video, too. You both did a fabulous job. I wish I had a pattern as I haven't sewn in a very long time. I'm itching to sew. 😊. Great job.

  • @mariannes.6023
    @mariannes.6023 Před 4 lety

    I find your focused, eloquent and relevant oral instructions excellent! Thanks! Best M.

  • @FruitiestSushi
    @FruitiestSushi Před 2 lety

    “For those fortunate enough to see” is so cute lmao

  • @pippaseaspirit4415
    @pippaseaspirit4415 Před rokem

    Using the organza ribbon to reinforce the front lace is a brilliant idea! I shall have to remember this! These look so pretty! Definitely something to add to my to-do list (although I will probably be mainly wearing separate drawers and chemises mostly).

  • @tls8688
    @tls8688 Před 3 lety

    I really appreciate the degree of detail you share in your narration. Your videos are excellent tutorials!

  • @elinorwright7044
    @elinorwright7044 Před 4 lety +1

    They are very nice! Also nice to see a fellow Canadian.

  • @berkleypearl2363
    @berkleypearl2363 Před 5 lety +13

    One day I’m going to do this. One day

  • @AraneaBlack
    @AraneaBlack Před 5 lety +7

    Beautifully made! Antique combinations scare the bejesus out of me with that amount of the lace inserts, gathering and the overall flimsy fabric but I have to say, seeing you do it makes me a bit braver. :) Thank you so much for sharing!

  • @lesleyharris3198
    @lesleyharris3198 Před 4 lety +1

    Hi, only found you today, but I watched all of your videos about the solar dress and the underpinnings, it was lovely.

  • @Duskkit
    @Duskkit Před 3 lety +2

    Huh. I have just discovered that I sew a lot faster than I thought I did: over the course of two 15-minute videos, I made enough progress that I would have expected it to take an hour undistracted.

    • @Duskkit
      @Duskkit Před 3 lety

      Also, this comment is showing up twice on my screen, so I suspect some duplication glitch has happened...

  • @foxyember
    @foxyember Před 4 lety +1

    I have watched both of the videos and You both are sure becoming huge inspirations to getting me sewing again along with Morgan Donner, thank you for inspiring me.

  • @dominatrix0216
    @dominatrix0216 Před 2 lety

    Bernadette banner made the exact same thing and they both are so dang pretty

  • @wenkachan6180
    @wenkachan6180 Před 4 lety +1

    I'm using the same drawers pattern for my combination and I'm drafting it and I'm just gasps cause THEY ARE FREAKING HUGE 😂😂😂

  • @HeyCuteEarrings
    @HeyCuteEarrings Před 5 lety +4

    These are so pretty! That color of purple you chose for the ribbon is my favorite color ever. Love them.

  • @Historical_Seamstress
    @Historical_Seamstress Před 5 lety +3

    +1 @Bernadette...they are truly GORGEOUS!! Great job!

  • @sacredrose5477
    @sacredrose5477 Před 5 lety +1

    I love watching you sew Marika. It is so relaxing and you are such a clean sewer.

  • @canucknancy4257
    @canucknancy4257 Před 5 lety

    Lovely, lovely, and lovely. So many great ideas to mull over in my head.

  • @zuul81
    @zuul81 Před 5 lety +5

    Wonderful as always. And very instructive.

  • @susanlein7849
    @susanlein7849 Před 5 lety +2

    So pretty! That fabric is so drape-y and moves so beautifully! I love the lace you used for the insertions!

  • @aurorad3522
    @aurorad3522 Před 5 lety

    Thanks for sharing this. I enjoyed seeing the mixture of modern and old techniques you used.

  • @eileensavoy1516
    @eileensavoy1516 Před 4 lety

    Thank you so much for doing this project on camera! You and Bernadette make a great team to see comparisons and talk about methods!

  • @raeleneblacketer3409
    @raeleneblacketer3409 Před 4 lety

    Love seeing the different ways you and Bernadette used to make these combinations!

  • @KelseyDrummer
    @KelseyDrummer Před 5 lety +8

    I love how one photo inspired both of you to makes some fabulous combinations! Well done! Subscribed!

  • @Kiyotea.clarinet
    @Kiyotea.clarinet Před 5 lety

    So pretty! It's so interesting to see a different take on them, too!

  • @akarpowicz
    @akarpowicz Před 5 lety +1

    ooooh. Black with red ribbon would be fun.

  • @ladypinkbagsetc.9116
    @ladypinkbagsetc.9116 Před 2 lety

    Absolutely lovely!

  • @sugarcreamcandy
    @sugarcreamcandy Před 4 lety

    This video is so helpful. I love that you mention your stitch size. Ive been groaning and putting off some insertion on a few projects and this put the fire back under my seat!

  • @meeseification
    @meeseification Před 3 lety

    Lace! I love the lace!

  • @christianecraig5306
    @christianecraig5306 Před 3 lety

    I am happy to find your channel With Your Wonderful Personality👌

  • @ellaisplotting
    @ellaisplotting Před 5 lety +6

    Gosh! They're fantastic! This is my utter favourite sewing channel, you are so sweet and thorough. Really inspiring me to get on with starting my own historical sewing!

    • @EnchantedRoseCostumes
      @EnchantedRoseCostumes  Před 5 lety +1

      Thank you! Do you have a favourite era?

    • @ellaisplotting
      @ellaisplotting Před 5 lety +1

      Well, I tend to dress 1940s/50s, but my favourite period is the 1870s, I love a good bustle :) Combinations are a little late in the century for me, but they're so damned pretty and practical i might give them a go! At least if I mess them up no-one will see them regardless! :)

  • @lorrispeciale1585
    @lorrispeciale1585 Před 4 lety

    I love, love, love them. Great job!

  • @guineverecassidy4855
    @guineverecassidy4855 Před 4 lety

    Such a beautiful interpretation.
    Yay you!
    Have a great day.

  • @jolynnwhite7946
    @jolynnwhite7946 Před 4 lety

    Authentically artistic, I think these garments are modern time wearable art👌🏾✌🏿️👼🏿💕

  • @Elemiriel
    @Elemiriel Před 5 lety +1

    Lovely! They look great on you too! I especially love the hem of the bloomers with the wide lace!

  • @ViolentRoseAu
    @ViolentRoseAu Před 5 lety +2

    OMG, a shortcut to gathering that I never thought of!

  • @augustwogsland3309
    @augustwogsland3309 Před 3 lety

    I love how these turned out!

  • @PowerToolsnPearls
    @PowerToolsnPearls Před 5 lety +1

    They really are so very wonderful! I had to set aside working mine for a few days. My brain thought it would be cute to start deleting numbers from my head which created obvious problems. So, we took a few days to deal with real world problems (albeit still 1st world problems). I’m excited to return to finish mine and at least 3 more sets for summer. I’m so happy to have found you here on ye olde CZcamss with the friendly assistance of Miss Banner 😉 It’s time for tea ☕️ and biscuits 🍪

  • @Echoxxx
    @Echoxxx Před 5 lety

    Gorgeous work! The purple ribbon brought a smile to my face. 💜

  • @jackeekp
    @jackeekp Před 4 lety

    it was through Bernadette Banner I found your channel, I am enjoying all I am learning off each of the channels, Thank You for taking the time that is needed to share

  • @teresamorgan4529
    @teresamorgan4529 Před 4 lety

    You are so very amazing. So skilled I'm envious!

  • @brinagotsued
    @brinagotsued Před 5 lety

    Absolutely beautiful, and a really good instructional video too

  • @thepearlatelier4256
    @thepearlatelier4256 Před 4 lety +1

    Hi i stumbled across your channel, i think you are genuinely so sweet and i love period costumes as well.

  • @goldogwolly
    @goldogwolly Před 4 lety +2

    Your videos are so thorough, I feel like I can make one too! My school even has all the books you used, yay

  • @ShellyParchman
    @ShellyParchman Před 3 lety

    Thumbs up for the Hello Kitty pin cushion

  • @pay1370
    @pay1370 Před 5 lety +3

    it looks amazing!! also the amount of stuff i learned from this video is incredible, so thank you for that ;)

  • @deblawson1575
    @deblawson1575 Před 4 lety

    These are so feminine, just beautiful. Just think someday your great great grand children will have something so wonderful and something that could be museum quality
    Thanks for sharing
    God Bless

  • @kimberlyrusso2541
    @kimberlyrusso2541 Před 5 lety

    Wonderful work!

  • @Curious.Badger
    @Curious.Badger Před 5 lety

    You and Bernadette make me want to learn all of this stuff. I am a cosplayer, reinactor amature. All of this is so fascinating and I want to do it but also...VASTLY INTIMIDATING!!!!

  • @bertuccigirl
    @bertuccigirl Před 5 lety +42

    Beautiful! You and Bernadette and Cathy Hay are making me want to sew some insertion lace, and maybe make some combinations. Are these split in the middle for ‘calls of nature’ so to speak?

    • @EnchantedRoseCostumes
      @EnchantedRoseCostumes  Před 5 lety +10

      Thank you! Insertion lace is so much fun! The answer to your question is Yes! Combinations(or chemise and bloomers) are the base layer of the Victorian and Edwardian era and so having spilt drawer made bathroom breaks much easier while wearing a full gown and corset. 😊
      Prior Attire has a delightful video on using the bathring in full attire!
      czcams.com/video/NUHeSTDv_24/video.html

    • @bertuccigirl
      @bertuccigirl Před 5 lety +5

      @@EnchantedRoseCostumes I have seen that video, I love it. I was just having trouble picturing how the legs are sewn together but still allow access. Also, I loved your idea to use a ribbon as a backing for the lace along the front where the buttons are. Very smart.

  • @Harivelo
    @Harivelo Před 4 lety

    Good job. Looks great on you.

  • @robincrean
    @robincrean Před 5 lety

    Stunning!

  • @silvergypsylady
    @silvergypsylady Před 5 lety +5

    Beautiful garment. I wonder if you could reinforce the lace strap with the ribbon you used for the front of the bodice? It could just be a piece that fits the height and the width that would be of the lace at the top edge. It could be hand sewn between the straps and the lace edge. I haven't made drawers for a very long time but have recently decided to do so.

  • @ambercolby5527
    @ambercolby5527 Před 5 lety +1

    These are so beautiful! I'm so tempted to make a pair for myself... though I have absolutely no need for them, lol!

  • @floief
    @floief Před 4 lety

    Oh, how I wish I were talented enough to sew like you and Bernadette. Alas, my talents end with pajama pants and night frocks.

  • @libertadbrito778
    @libertadbrito778 Před 4 lety

    You're such good a instructor.

    • @EnchantedRoseCostumes
      @EnchantedRoseCostumes  Před 4 lety

      Thank you 💜 when I was in school one of my teachers said I should consider teaching in the future.

  • @millycox508
    @millycox508 Před 5 lety

    beautiful combinations

  • @ambrosiata
    @ambrosiata Před 5 lety

    Looks good!!

  • @michaelacoy3337
    @michaelacoy3337 Před 5 lety +1

    Just discovered your channel and am loving it! I've been following you on Instagram for a while, but did not realize you made videos!

  • @Percherondance
    @Percherondance Před 4 lety

    These are so pretty! You're so talented! I have zero patience for sewing, I wish I did. You can't find anything like this anywhere to buy.

  • @googlethis313
    @googlethis313 Před 4 lety +1

    Thank you for making insertion lace not quite as daunting!
    Now...to just Do it! *sigh* giggling

  • @terrijuanette486
    @terrijuanette486 Před 5 lety

    Awesome job. Wow.

  • @TheAlicesense
    @TheAlicesense Před 5 lety

    Beautiful!!

  • @yuhuie
    @yuhuie Před 5 lety

    Lovely! I want to make this too...

  • @Khamomil
    @Khamomil Před 5 lety

    very interesting. i always wondered how insertions were made.

  • @jennhill8708
    @jennhill8708 Před 4 lety

    I quite enjoy yr channel. & Bernadette’s, Morgan’s, as well as Noelle’s. I’m wondering how combinations would work for this arthritic old lady, but I’ll prob have to make them to find out!

  • @skolljumper
    @skolljumper Před rokem

    I want to live in those haha

  • @thebookishhbookworm
    @thebookishhbookworm Před 5 lety

    I love your channel! And I think your name is very pretty!

  • @asfgqwerty8277
    @asfgqwerty8277 Před 5 lety +4

    Hahaha these turn-of-the-century Victorians that decided to put all of those ruffles on their underwear! Lol! So much work! But then they do look beautiful. Great video and thanks for sharing how you made them :)
    PS: would you mind sharing where you got that lovely Hello Kitty-esque pincushion arm band? They look cute and handy (the plastic pincusions never fit my wrist very well...)

    • @EnchantedRoseCostumes
      @EnchantedRoseCostumes  Před 5 lety +1

      Just wait until you see the petticoats!
      I was given the pincushion as a Secret Santa around 6-7 years. Here is her tutorial if you want to make one :) www.metroidhat.com/mother/pincushion.html

    • @asfgqwerty8277
      @asfgqwerty8277 Před 5 lety

      Enchanted Rose Costumes Thank you!

  • @rachelunderwood4868
    @rachelunderwood4868 Před 5 lety

    You did a beautiful job of these!

  • @nathalieslachmuylders
    @nathalieslachmuylders Před 3 lety

    Congrats on your beautiful work! They came out looking really lovely, I think the rayon blend is a great material for the overall look. I do have a question: though I also have the book Victorian Dressmaking Techniques, the info in there and seeing you do the 'stroking' of the gathers on video still doesn't get accross to me what is going on exactly. Do you know of any clear drawing or other 'for dummies' expanation of how this neatening of the gathers works exactly? Best wishes from Ireland

  • @CatGirl-ob4ki
    @CatGirl-ob4ki Před 4 lety +2

    Super cute. I love the way it seems to almost float. What type of fabric did you use?

    • @EnchantedRoseCostumes
      @EnchantedRoseCostumes  Před 4 lety +1

      I am not 100% sure, but with the burn test I did I am fairly certain it was a cotton rayon blend.

  • @Alisen12
    @Alisen12 Před 4 lety +1

    I am so intimidated by this. I love watching you and Bernadette and would REALLY love to make a full Edwardian (I know this is not Edwardian!) costume but I am so convonced I'll never make it as good as you are that I won't even start. Any tips on how to overcome this fear?

    • @crystalguile9469
      @crystalguile9469 Před 4 lety +2

      Alisen12 I’m kind of in the same realm! Currently I’m binge watching all the videos and making some practice walking skirts out of old sheets. There are tons of blogs and tutorials. I think the key is to just start. Cathy Hay has several good videos to help motivate and inspire.

  • @carolbarbee5653
    @carolbarbee5653 Před 2 lety

    😍

  • @gigglepantsiii826
    @gigglepantsiii826 Před 4 lety +1

    A year after this video posted I'm cutting out pieces for a pair of combiations from 1908 via the book The Edwardian Modiste

  • @claireirvine3266
    @claireirvine3266 Před 5 lety +3

    They're beautiful! How do they feel while wearing a corset over the top (or do you wear it underneath...). Do the buttons feel uncomfortable?

    • @EnchantedRoseCostumes
      @EnchantedRoseCostumes  Před 5 lety +3

      Thank you! They are one of the most comfortable historical pieces I ever made! I haven't tried it with a corset over top yet, but I'll let you know once I finish my 1890s corset next month! I don't believe it will be a problem as the buttons are quite small.

  • @clairebrent8546
    @clairebrent8546 Před 5 lety +8

    Good job! I admire the time you took to fiddle with all the insertion lace.
    On a side note, since you can't find good full length slips ANYWHERE, maybe this is something to be put on the back burner??? For my wedding??? If anyone knows a good single Catholic boy, lmk sometime soon ;)

    • @andreatierney2335
      @andreatierney2335 Před 3 lety

      Claire, my daughter also would be interested in a good single Catholic boy. :)

    • @clairebrent8546
      @clairebrent8546 Před 3 lety +1

      @@andreatierney2335 They are so hard to find... tell her to keep praying for God's will!!!

  • @thischannelisnotcurrentlyb7067

    May I ask which dressform you use? I'm looking to purchase one.

  • @hellothere274
    @hellothere274 Před 5 lety

    😊❤