Huge waves made it nearly impossible to get out
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- čas přidán 5. 01. 2024
- I recently filmed a HUGE, terrifying days of surf and realized that I don't normally share with you the most difficult and scary part of big wave surfing.
Thanks for watching! I'm Brad Jacobson and I'll sea ya on the sand.
Music: Snake Hips
That happened to me yesterday at Venice. After 30-40 minutes, I just gave up. After watching your video I don’t feel so bad. Thanks Brad.
We used to jump off Manhattan pier when it was too big to padle out. Never felt so alive! Thanks for bringing back those memories 😃
I grew up surfing HB and Newport. Then I moved to Ocean Beach in San Francisco. That is a four mile long beach break that has lots of clean double overhead days throughout the fall, winter and early spring. It's a 200 yard paddle out. A hell of a workout but it's doable. But then there are the clean triple overhead+ days which we get several of those every winter too. Those are 300 yard paddles. On those days there are only a handful of guys out in the water. The paddle out generally takes about half an hour of non stop paddling, duck diving, having your board ripped out of your hands, washing machined, and dragged back 50 yards toward shore, popping up and regaining ground hoping one of those beasts doesn't suddenly start to loom on the horizon. You only get one or two waves an hour cuz the peaks shift all over the place, and when you do catch one you don't want to ride them in too far or you'll get caught inside and take another 20-30 minutes to get back in the lineup. After the session you are completely wiped out but feel great.
Trust me man, I know! Growing up right next to a beach break that catches tons of swell, THERE IS NO CHANNEL. Ever. There are some slightly better spots but that's it, and you need to accept the fact that there's at least thirty straight minutes of paddling out ahead of you, and that's assuming you're able to get out at all. Occasionally I had to just give up.
Rarely see good footage of Hammerland these days ! Nice work Brad 👍
So much good surf action lately. Swami's was packed - cleanup sets. Thanks for your work, Brad !
An Awesome Video!!!! I remember them days. Thank you for Sharing and Posting. You are the Man Mr.Brad!!!!
My lungs are aching just WATCHING this! Great vid, Brad! As usual.
my arms are noodles just watching this. one of the more entertaining surf videos I've seen in awhile, and very relatable. sometimes I swear you either get lucky on attempt #1 and get out in 2 minutes with plenty of energy or it takes you 15 minutes of back to back waves on the head. then you just wait around and rest until you can even consider paddling for a wave. nice vid 👍
Excellent video. I like how you made a story, and the more of your narration, the better.
Love this edit!
Very cool video Brad. I've seen some of these names on your channel before and know they are incredibly talented surfers. It makes me feel better about days where I am struggling too. These are some monster waves.
I love to see this. 50% of surfing is the paddle out. I like to see how others make it out in big surf. You should keep making these vids.
The opening 5 seconds is sick. But that's not why i write this comment today. I like to give moral support and help support people. Here's my comment. I can't paddle out when it's huge either! Hope that helps. You can feel better about yourself.
Cool to see the good, bag and the ugly of paddle outs in huge surf. The other thing that surf videographers usually edit out is holddowns. Some of us are trying to count out the length of the hold downs in bigger surf, but you guys tend to edit them abrubtly to focus on the "action" of the next wave. lets see some Brad!
Mr. Jacobson deserves respect by showing people who may not surf how risky & critical a paddle-out can be. I have had to explain to folks who have never surfed that being outside in big surf, followed by a controlled takeoff, is much more secure & safe than dodging double-to-triple overhead waves on the way out. I have had some terrifying paddle-outs that years later still scare me. I learned to jump into rips whenever possible, defying all the beach safety rules ever written. I also learned the hard way to not stop & look around after going vertical up the face-I learned to keep my eyes closed & keep digging until the spray dies down-only then open my eyes to see if I might survive the next set aiming right at me. One thing that Mr. Jacobson missed is the steady-constant roar. I am open to better descriptions, but I liken it to being 200’ from a 747 as it accelerates down a runway.
Never give up. Paddle paddle paddle paddle paddle until you get out that was my motto. I’ve only been denied a few times hurricane waves.
love the pathos in your narration!
One of your more watchable videos. The secret? Your almost constant narration! Well done!
Absolutely astonishing radical courageous inspiring as a friend of mine would say Surfing in San Francisco at Ocean Beach just making it out to the lineup was an accomplishment sometimes some days specially in super heavy conditions. That’s what it feels like a victory. I love all these videos you put up thank you so much.