Every Surfers Worst Nightmare...
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- čas přidán 30. 11. 2023
- In this video I explain every surfers worst nightmare. I show numerous clips of being caught on the inside of JAWS , Nazare, Mavericks and more to show the beatdowns that pro surfers like Kai lenny take. These are the biggest wave and wipeouts in the world , causing surfers to go over the falls at places like the wedge and teahupo'o. I also give tips on duck diving and breath holding techniques in case you encounter a two wave hold down.
Video clip credit : Brad Jacobson, Nathan Florence, WSL, Kai Lenny , Mark Healy , Surfers of Bali, Beefs T.V and more.
DISCLAIMER : I am not a lifeguard nor certified all information comes from my experience in the ocean and websites with ocean safety protocols. I do not encourage you to perform the surfing actions or advice in this video and I am no way held liable for injury or death. This video is for educational / Entertainment purposes only.
Music : Envato elements
All content above is meant to be transformative for educational purposes under the fair use section 107 of the Copyright Act.
#surfing #surfer #bigwaves - Zábava
My preferred technique is to watch videos on the Internet.
The other couch surfer..
😂
😂😂😂😂
Boring
😂😅❤
As a surf photographer I only have one more tip for these situations:
- Think always about the next one. It doesn't matter if a big wave is going to smash you, while you are diving you have to think "the next one is worst" instead of "just this and I'm safe". Think always there is a next one because many times will be. That with the calm and the breathe made myself to escape from many dangerous situations for me and my camera.
Ye, the last wave of the set can be the biggest one
I’ve taught my lad to avoid the first wave of a set for this very reason. 🤙
In my younger days I could hold my breath for almost three minutes. I've never had a hold down that even came close to scaring me. I used to LOVE getting ragdolled when it was inevitable. Going limp and just letting the water do it's thing was one of the most relaxing experience ever, like a big massaging washing machine.
That depends on experience I guess. I can hold breath for around 3 and a half minutes during casual freedive, but in the washing machine this time reduces tragically fast. Still can’t say i hate it, it’s a weird mix of terrifying and fun and a hell of a lesson ocean teaches us from time to time
yep, like the guy said, the secret to survive is to not panic and also to not fight it and to relax your body and let the wave toss you around like a rag doll. Sometimes though I begin to paddle to the surface too early without knowing which way is up and find myself paddling down not up.
Who does blud think he is you’ve never been in bigger than 7 foot mate
@@layzonclutch2906 four years in Escondido says otherwise, broh.
@@dougdavis8986 yeah bro
i used live in California and id surf most everyday when i was a teenager. got to play around in some bigger waves and learn the ocean at the same time. i am 33 now, I haven't surfed in many years, but i still have dreams of being trapped in big waves when my life is in turmoil. the feeling of being powerless and tossed around is a unique one, not easily forgotten.
Great presentation! Although I'm now 70 years old and never really surfed I appreciate what you surfers are doing and applaud you all!!!!
Wear a buoyancy vest! Got caught inside on a 10 plus day at my local reef about 400m offshore. Had to bail, stand and dive method, got a couple of strokes down as it got hold of me. Got a breath as I came out of the back of the wave, while getting sucked over, then got obliterated. Popped up as the next one was about to unload on me. Smashed again but washed out of impact zone. Third and fourth were a mountains of white water. Leggy held and I finally got my board back spun around and got bounced by the fifth wave. I was 52! Shook me up. The vest saved my life. Just a wakeboard impact vest with stomach pads removed. Still surfing at 59 but keep it real nowadays. No 10 foot days but wear my vest when solid. Stay fit and flexible. Riding a 9”1” Takayama. So much fun. Keep surfing
You can not submerge with one of those, you take the wave straight on your face
I surf the North Shore of Hawaii Island and I've had some pretty bad hold downs. Letting my board go is definitely a last resort, because it will be destroyed on the rocks if your leash breaks. Having said that, when a 20' wall of water is coming down on your head, you definitely don't want to be near the surface. Holding your board won't matter, because it will absolutely be snatched out of your hands like candy from a baby. Even if you have your arms wrapped around your board and your hands locked together, there is no way you'll be able to hold on. It really is incredible to have something as big as your gun, ripped from your arms instantly, like less than a tenth of a second. If you do somehow hold on, you'll lose so much yardage, it's a real possibility that both you and your board will be dashed on the rocks. If it's a mountain of whitewater, I'll make an effort to duck, but if it's too big and I can't get under the initial impact, I know I failed immediately and I'll just let my board go and continue my duckdive without the board. I usually lose less ground this way, but the down side is, you have to reel in your board and if it's upside down, you'll be swimming under the next wave too and so on. 🤔 Now that I think about it, why do I even do this, it's insane. 🤣
I like your answer at the end. I was a rock climber and in my early days I remember after getting at 12 feet up I panicked. Here I was sprawled out on the face with all 4 of my limbs... sweating on the rocks petrified. And when I wouldn't move my boyfriend called up from below saying I had to choices ... I could trust myself to position my next foothold and heist myself up or I could hang there in indecision til the sun went down.😅
That might seem harsh to some but his strategy was fir me to conquer my fear and trust that I knew what to do.
And when I got to the top and took in that view. For me it was another plane of existence.
Why do we do such things?
To test our limits to push or own boundaries and I live in a moment.
That it is dangerous even by insane standards only fuels that desire because if it were easy ... everyone would do it and what's the fun in that?
Personally I always wanted to be a surfer but we didn't get to live in North shore or Santa Cruz or Waimea. Nevertheless
I am fascinated with big wave surfing and often try to picture physically what that might be like.
Mad respect fir those like Doran and Hamilton who took that to the next level.
Doran who believed it was possible to paddle into a wave and ride that mountain of water and Hamilton thr ultimate waterman who invented the rail to literally float above the water and tow in using a jet ski 🎿
Amazing ... truly a visionary.
That you chose to ride a mountain of water as your past time despite the risks that it could kill you shows your passion to surf... thats exciting.
And although I have never been where you are and can't possibly know what it's like to be sucked over the falls or held down for 3 sets. I do respect the fact that such an experience would be life changing and scare the hell out of you.
And remember that you are taking your life in your hands when you grab that board and head out to jaws or mavericks.
So bravo to you for being brave enough to do it and level headed enough to know what you are up against and think with a clear head when you find yourself barreling down in a violent cyclone 🌀.
I love learning to the stories all you surfers tell when you have a near death experience.
This sport is respected. It never attempted without extreme safety measures in place.
That's the same with my sport rock climbing. You never forget that always high risk in every climb you make. Sure it is a blast and that why we do it but also it's a dangerous sport in which you can lose your life if you get stupid or cocky.
Happy surfing 🏄♂️ to you thanks for sharing.
I partially held my breath as I read this and felt relieved to make it to the end haha. As an empath and also a thrill seeker myself, I can assume why you do this. That said, after a few experiences of being ragdolled by just 5 footers, I know you are dedicating yourself to a unique confluence of things that I could never pull myself to do, but I have my own things that you might say the same thing to too. The moment of presence and unshaking focus while living on razer thin margins and experiencing an adrenaline rush, out of body experience rush kind of moment, many times over, is just something not everybody can do, let alone understand.
I stood at the shoreline of the pipeline as an 8 year old for a few minutes and absolutely respect anyone who can manage anything close to or beyond that.
Three years ago, I was a lower-level intermediate when I first went over the falls. I was paddling in for the evening at Kings Beach in Queensland, Australia. I reached the shore break and thought I would try to catch one. It was really dumpy and the wave looked like it was closing out; I hesitated thinking about what to do and then pulled back- one second too late. I failed to throw my board to the side and got slammed down over it when it hit the seafloor. Cracked two ribs and coughed up blood. It turned out not to be serious, but I couldn't lie on a surfboard for four weeks it hurt so much. Lesson learned: hesitation is a surfer's bane.
If above 10' in a bad impact zone, I always go for option 3. Grab my board by the rails, chest on the tail and wait for the turbulent six feet white wash roll to shoot me like a rocket towards the shore. Definitely more fun than struggling to breath for a minute.
This is actually a REALLY good tutorial. Most “tutorials” are no better than sweaty balls on a hot day, but this one actually gives good suggestions. #3, taking a moment to gather yourself and look for other surfers to help get your bearings is something many folks miss when getting hammered. It feels like an eternity, but in reality it just isn’t that long when taking a couple to the head. Being calm uses less oxygen internally.
Best advice I can give folks is to practice holding your breath outside of the water. If you can hold your breath for 90 seconds, that should be enough for most surfers. Those who surf big waves need more, but for the average guy or gal who surfs, it’s rare to find yourself on waves bigger than 10-15’ faces.
A couple of other things that always made a big difference for me was also making sure you have a much longer leash for 8 - 10 foot swells and above. Also on reef breaks I found opening my eyes after getting washing machined in impact zones helped me get a much quicker orientation of where the surface was. I came very close once in the 90,s surfing on La Graciosa at el corral in the Canaries. it was a solid 6-8 foot rising swell with cross offshore winds and I got caught out by a rogue set. one of my friends who had gone in because the wind was starting to swing cross onshore started shouting and whistling and I just had time to realize a much bigger set was coming in but could not make it out of the impact zone in time. I dove down toward the reef as far as I could just before impact and still got totally ragdolled and took the second wave over me while still under. I remember opening my eyes punching for the light and just making it in time for a brief second of air before taking the third wall over me. My head was pounding and I was seeing loads of multi colored lights but thankfully I had been washed down point so was able to get some breaths in before the tail end of the fourth wave. I paddled back out and just sat there going WTF just happened before getting out which is a whole other fiddle to there in big swells lol Epic times though no regrets. Also If poss try and flatten your body out as much as you can when wiping and getting sucked over in heavy shore breaks and shallow reefs.
I was used to Aquitaine endless sandy beaches, and when I was in Canarias, I was scared by just seeing the shape of the rocks on the bottom on "peaceful" breaks... (I'm not a high skilled surfer anyway, and doing mostly bodyboard, "biscotte").
With my friend, we went to visit "El Fronton", there were a huge chaotic swell, and I thought to myself "I will never surf that", the rocky shore, with the huge "hole" being filled and sucked on the side was scary as hell. Once you're stuck into that, I guess the only way out is death.
But even of the sandy beaches of Biscarrosse, La Teste and Lacanau, I had some "washing machine" times which were not always fun... And shorebreaks are also dangerous because you can hit the ground very hard.
Underrated, thanks for sharing.
It had been dead flat all day when I heard that perfect sets had begun rolling in at Bells 8 minutes apart. It was 8:30pm with only 30 min of daylight so my friend and I drove done and sure enough perfect waves were coming in in 8 min intervals and there was no one out so my friend and I paddled to the usual take off spot and didn't have to wait long for the sets to start rolling in but we very quickly realised that the waves were 2x-3x what were estimated from the cliff and were are least 12-15 foot (hard to tell when there was no one in the water) and were peaking a good 100 metres further out that normal. We began paddling like made to make it over the first wave which we barely made (they wave were so high that our ears popped as we went up the face) but there was no way were were gonna make it past the 2nd and 3rd and they broke right on top of use. Unlike regular waves, when these broke it was initially like being under Niagra falls and the wave would initially push you down, then after a split second it was like an explosion and you wouldnt know which way was up. One thing that does not get conveyed when seeing huge waves on video is that when the waves are right in front of you they fill up your peripheral vision as well so the wave is not just high, it fills your entire vision. Never been rag dolled so hard before and when I started paddling for the surface I realised I was actually paddling down.
One other scary / memorable 'over the falls' wipeout was when I was surfing Jan Juc's bird rock at low tide where I could see the seaweed as the wave would suck up on take off. Not particularly big, 4-5 foot reef break, but has fast hollow short rides especially at low tide. On this particularly large wave I was probably six feet too far forward (the takeoff area is tiny) and was lip thrown so hard that I cleared the wave like I had been shot from a cannon and I instinctively positioned my body as horizontal as possible with arms outstretched as I expected to hit the reef but surprisingly didn't and thought 'hmmm, that didn't seem as shallow as I thought' until I stood up and found that the water was maximum only 4 feet deep. Was a miracle I didn't get a cracked skull that day.
damn u have some good comparisons and pretty bad things happening in ur life, if u have been trapped in the niagara falls and were hit by a cannon and u are still alive damn. u must be invincible.
sorry bro I wanna read this but I just can't read allat😂
Sometimes the pressure going over the falls pushes all the air out of the lungs. Doesnt matter how fit you are in big surf if a combitination of things go wrong its game over
Love it, absolutely love the sensation of going over backwards.
Big tip , relax and enjoy the ride.
Worst nightmare, being sucked back and going OTF on a huge 20ft+ wave.
Best surf channel on YT ! I’d say a,b and c depending on size, kind of wave (spilling, plunging ) and position to shore or distance to direct impactzone
Just liked and subscribed! Best video clips of heavy surf nightmares! But you quickly give the keys to survive the worst. Much thanks as I’m sure it will save someone’s ass! Most of us had to learn this by the experience in the old days!
Scariest hold down I ever experienced, I wiped out while on the face of the wave....seemed like 50', when it was probably 10-12' at most....I got clipped by the heavy lip of the barrel, wind knocked out of me immediately when I crashed into the bottom of the wave hard, than I got sucked up by the wave, felt the weightless free fall as I'm going down sideways through the air/over the falls and impact the water hard again ....rinse and repeat....two more waves the exact same size come charging right at me....one bigger than the next....kept calm, controlled my breath, knowing when I fell on the first one what to expect...
Than I opened my eyes....EVERYTHING BLACK....
Absolutely scared me to death and I panicked, didn't know which way was up, didn't know how my body was even orientated to the surface....literally thought I'm going to drown, I have the wind knocked out of me, I remained patient for what seemed like an hour and now I can't even find the way out....pitch black all around, f***ing terrifying.....
Next wave hits, boom....thank God, it wrapped my leash around my mid-section as I went through the washing machine again, so I was able to unravel it real quick and follow the leash to my board on the surface....and than boom, hit again, but at least I took the biggest one second inhale any human has ever done before.....
I have never experienced such a time in my life such as that where I resigned myself to dying.....
Finally find the surface after the set....I'm stuck inside at Sunset Cliffs, SD and the waves keep firing....no beach, inside is only cliffs....took me 45 minutes of continuous duck dives to finally make it out of the cove and not get pummeled against the rocks.....thank God I was young and in good surfing shape, otherwise I think there would be some makeshift cross with my name on it up along the road/tourist spots asking the cliffs
Crap! I know exactly where you were! Pillbox in Encinitas for me!
Horrible
These guys are superhuman living through that. I can hold my breath a long time in a still environment but right after heavy paddling, maybe getting only a half breath, and facing a savage beating, I don't know how these guys do this.
I was surfing Ocean Beach in San Francisco on a moderately big day probably double overhead. Anyone who surfs there knows that wipeouts can be brutal even on smaller swells. I paddled into a pretty big one, but was just too late and free fell down the face. At first I thought no big deal. I hit feet first and went deep and thought OK it’ll just pass over me. But suddenly the turbulence wrapped my leash around my ankles and then I was 20+ feet down and hog tied. I couldn’t use my feet to kick up, so I was freaking out, trying to swim up with one arm while using the other hand to try and get my leash untangled.
Then I could feel the next wave breaking on top and knew I was in for at least a two wave hold down. I definitely was starting panic and to see spots in front of my eyes when the drag from my board pulled from the second wave me up to the surface, and I was able to get the leash un tangled before the next wave hit. But definitely puts the fear of God in you, It’s the panic that gets you, not the wave. I’m guessing I was underwater for 30, maybe 40 seconds tops but it felt like 5 minutes.
u werent 20 ft under at ocean beach from a doh wave 😂
@@nick9zx I was told there would be no math on this exam
OB nearly drowned me too in similar conditions. Fell on take off of first wave of huge set. 2nd wave on me with hardly a breath between them. So much white wash I couldn’t come up. When I did, third one was there immediately and I was ragdolled again. First time I ever thought I might not make it. I came up dizzy and pulled on my leash to find the board. figured one more im dead. Well #4 was there and I just hugged my board tight and luckily I held on and it pulled me up faster to get a real breath and that was the last big one. Paddled in after that and just laid on beach thinking WTF
@@cardconnection4322lol wtf
ive had many many over the falls experiences, the worst kind is when you duck dive come up the other side and it sucks you back down over the falls .. its sucks the most because you think you have made the duck dive.
Ik that one is the worst and it can be way after you make it through 😂
Facts
Ah your expecting to pop out the back and you realize wait wait I seem to be upside-down lol, and i did not take a deep enough breath
Exaktly, my first experience with that was when I paddled out in a good shorebreak, I was just duckdiving like usual but then I felt the suction pulling me back (I was like 10m out at that point), well anyway, I went back over the falls and I could swear I stood on the ground just chilling, but I couldn't get back up and when the wave was gone again I was standing in knee-deep water.
That could have ended way worse...😅
A buddy and me were paddling out on a small day, we duck dived,came out the back and continued to talk…….. but
I was caught in the “event horizon “ I said wait what? I was paddling like hell,, he was just outside the pull zone.He turned around and watched me get sucked down to the ocean floor, just the right swell direction, just the right bathymetry so much water was coming up over the sandbar holding me to the floor.
Nice video. Thank you 🙏
Thanks for sharing will share out in community.
Over the falls is the worst, because you are being propelled into the explosion zone like a pile driver. Being in the explosion zone is as bad but you don’t have the added momentum of the wave throwing you down. The water is your friend, it will cushion the force of the wave so the deeper you are, the safer you are.
As someone who is from Hawaii (40 years) I have gone over the falls at every beach. The best thing to do is try to get your last good breath and relax. Don't fight the washing machine. Let it toss you up. Just guard your head and try to go over feet first obviously. Remain calm and take deliberate breaths.
One thing that was not mentioned is correct wave selection predicated on the current amount of sets rolling in for that day. For example if you watch the sets and they’re coming in three, four and five at a time, does it make sense to takeoff on the first wave????? PROBLEM, if you miss, your take off, kick our, or are not adjacent to a shoulder for a take off you have a four wave hole down tor a nasty paddle session of waves to punch through. Most surfers look at the sets and take off on the second to the last wave or speculate if it’s the the last wave of that current set. When this happens it gives some time to enjoy their wave, kick out, paddle back out, and take a little rest for the next set. This concept ensures you only have to paddle through one wave coming back to the line up. Armatures or inexperienced surfers go on the first wave or experienced surfers who are coming in for the day.
BTW You are going to get hungry in the line up. Keep a protein in each sleeve of your wet suit and a capri sun in your zip chest (rip curl) of you wet suit. Nothing beats timing the tide, killer rights all morning and you have to come in to eat or 💩. Capris get the salt out of your nose after a nasty hold down.
Blacks Beach, La Jolla, CA, is a powerful wedge that gets gnarly when it goes off. I've gone over the falls there on 6-8 foot swells that pulverized my soul. Double and triple hold downs at Blacks can make you question your sanity. It's very possible to snap a leash, if you ditch. When it gets big, it gets steep and shallow, elevating the stakes. I can't tell you how many boards I've seen carried up the hill in pieces. My preferred duck dive was the standard one but, to save the board, if I was late, I'd bear hug it, roll and get the rails vertical and try to cut through the wave...and do everything possible to save the board. Ditching was always forbidden. It was only used in extreme situations and would probably get someone's ass kicked if their board hit someone. It just wasn't done. I've gotten doubled and tripled and started getting nervous and prayed to the surf gods to get a breath, only to get pummeled again. I was a long distance runner and could swim 2-1/2 lengths of a lap pool on 1 breath. I always cleared the impact zone, without truly panicking. I can see how it can happen though, especially, after the 2nd denial. I live along the gulf side of Florida now. There's virtually no surf most of the year. I keep a longboard ready but really miss those SoCal waves.
This seem to always happen to me as soon as I just about got out the Back a cleanup set would come through , Great Vidoe
Very good information . I learned in south florida and got a chance to go west and surf southern Calif. Been rolled into the reef cut up on my back. Im 53 now i live in florida and the waves are short in height and mostly short ride...
Excellent Coverage, nice slowing down the Video. Recommend using Red Arrows to show some details also.
Another CZcamsr Brad Jacobsen always does an excellent job with his Visual Arrows and extremely slowing down his Videos.
Your under water duck Videos are the best I’ve ever seen. Great job on that 🙏
Great video and presentation....
I was surfing Carpentaria as an intermediate all alone in the 90s when a rogue set came through, twice the size of what was rolling that day. I was stoked and went on the first wave, only to eat it and then suffer the scariest hold down of my life. I came up from the first hold down only to face a bigger second wave. When that one was through with me, I came up and number three was even bigger. I recall being under and thinking, "This is it; I'm gassed. If there's a fourth, it's over." I surfaced, gasping, to see a beautiful, flat ocean that let me paddle in and live to surf another day.
Right. Thanks for filling my dreams again tonight. Woo-yaaaaa
Broke my nose by being held down on a wave, smacked the sand like being hit by mike tyson. Everything you said is good information, the ocean is very powerful and demands respect.
Old surfer here. I surfed in the days before board chords, in the 70's, at Hanalei. My mantra was to wrap my arms around my board when going over the falls. I've been tucked many a time washing machine fashion. Also relax and let the wave action have its way with you. If/ when you loose your board stay in the white water as it will push you to shore. Stay away from all channels as all that water is rushing off the reef and rushing back to sea. The white water is actually your friend and body surf it back to shore. Never surf big waves when you are physically tired. Rest on shore and surf another day.
Great lesson
Thanks!
On a day at Huntington Beach a couple years ago, waves were big, breaking outside and inside when I got sucked over the falls on a four footer on my boogie board. Separated my shoulder on a small wave...Gotta respect the ocean.
I was out with a buddy on a 3 foot day and his board got snapped in half, it’s unpredictable
I always used to hold on to my board for dear life as it would always find the surface, have had quite a few non surfing related injuries though and haven't had a paddle for the past 30 years.
My best hack is I only paddle out when the waves are 2-3 feet 💪
jajajaja hey bro muchas gracias ... saludos desde las playas de peruvian :D
As an avid free diver I’m good with breath control but was very surprised by the power or big waves. Im taking maybe 10 feet in the Pacific. Was use to shorter period waves of the E coast. The first long period 10 footer that I wiped out on was a BIG surprise. Wow, what a difference.
Same experience for me. 10 ft waves in Mexico. Very steep and fast despite strong offshore wind upholding a flat, clean inside surface. But behind the wave was the entire Pacific ocean. This was no thin, transparent breaking wave, it was a thick swell. The weight above my shoulders toppled me. I went under for a seeming eternity, lungs aching for air. I tore off my velcro leash strap, to keep from being pummeled by my flailing board. I knew more waves would follow with similar, immense force. Unfamiliarly, the warm water calmed me, contray to the painfully frigid water sucked from the deep by my local northeast storms - even in the sumner. Remaining relaxed, eyes open for directional light, and managing the urge for breath all kept me in control while the image of my hands - visible in memory to this day - acted on some kind of instinctive auto pilot - paddle-wheeling me to the surface.
@@brittseverence7221 I can relate we’re not for my free diving experience. I don’t know how I would’ve done with that one.
The board tomb stoning with the leggie stretched to the max while wearing a set on head is not fun, great video bro thanks 😮
Been there done that!!! Bosa Chica State surfer with all my friends in 1960-70s surfer dude.
I used to swim in waves and try to go over the falls (thanks for the terminology!) Until I did that in a just under 4 meter (13 foot) shorebreak. There was a big set and I was in chest deep water, getting pulled up the wave and slammed right onto like a remaining 30 centimeters (1 foot) of water and sand below. It was an experience I neither want to miss nor repeat. Can't imagine what it must be like to go over the falls of a 50 foot wave, that must be absolutely insane. I was fine that day, but a lady trying the same thing (probably seeing me having fun in the waves, and thinking she'd be fine, if an athletic german dude can do it, she can as well or smth) and she broke her shoulder on a wave just like mine. Waves have incredible power and if I didn't know how to properly protect my head, I could have easily been knocked out. Needless to say I didn't stay in the breaking zone of those waves for long. Usual sets were almost only half that size that day, so it was kind of a surprise to see waves that large. //edit: the one at 1:57 explains almost perfectly the situation I was in xD
I was surfing south shore Oahu on swell, was pretty confident on my double up positioning but all of a sudden the wave jacks up to head high and it feels like I’m jumping off the roof. Moved my board so I wouldn’t hit my fins and took it. High tide that day, thank god
love the one second clip from my channel. you should have shown more
Happened to me the day after "The Perfect Storm" at Rye New Hampshire. Was held down for about 2 minutes. Knew to relax and wait for my buoyant wet suit to float me up. When I popped up, I looked around for my long board. About 30 seconds later, my board surfaced like a Poisidon missile. Guys around me yelled that I should have worn a leash, but I'm sure that it would have ripped my leg off!
I don’t think you can explain how terrifying that looks.
My favorite thing about 'going over the falls'? Sucking in that last giant breath as you're stuck in the time warp of that eternal moment that you wish could last a little longer.
I just Boggie Board with mild waves! I have deep respect for the power of the ocean. Had scary experience.
You're correct brother
Stay cool and calm
Shore break is a different story
Unlike the outside
I was born and raised on Oahu south shore although I surfed the country frequently in the winter.Summers were always a prize for a walk to the beach. Portlock Point comes off of deep water and jacks up on an 8’deep reef which u would think u have a lot if cushion. But punching 3 step ladder sets with faces upwards of 20’, the last one I thought i could punch through but the lip hit the tail of my board and i went inside over the falls and ended up hitting the bottom 8’below. Fingers bleeding and bottom of new board trashed. So u are right, itcan happen to anyone anywhere.
Surfing Black's in the 60's occasionally found us long boarders in 15 foot waves that sucked so hard that ducking would catapult us like a sling shot pointed at the beach. What I did was to duck with the board with the rail down so that the impact of the water would have less surface to sling shot. I would tuck the nose under my arm. Worked for Black's.
I was about to post about the same technique. I was doing this in La Jolla more than 50 years ago with my 9'-6" Gorden and Smith. I did this at Black's Beach because the big waves sucked really hard.
My preferred method was to stay on the beach when the waves were overhead and mostly surf beach breaks. Yes, I was a casual surfer but I loved it!
I had a 3 wave rouge set hold down at Chuns when I was young and strong. I wiped out in the impact zone on the drop and the heavy trades blew my board back into my face...it was only double overhead but the beating left memories. There was so much air bubbles in the water I would not float or start to rise and when I did make it up, there was another lip coming down on my head. I still like Chuns...,
Biggest fears over the falls = tangling with my board/fins or getting slammed then dragged across shallow, urchin-covered reef. Or getting dragged towards barnacle-covered rocks.
I mostly body surfed Maui South shore. I think I was at White Rock, next to Kea Lani 30 years ago, and I didn't quite make it out in time. I took the lip of at least an overhead right across my shoulders and just pounded me into the sand. My worst, going over the falls at Makena 2nd entrance. Again, at least overhead and I stiff armed the sand. The beach was very steep and I was fighting to not pass out from the pain and have the rip take me back out unconscious. That was a not-gonna-make-it moment. Tunnel vision and all.
Don't fight with falling waves. What you do is get rid of the board coming towards your body. It is over time that we learn to be calm with the air so as not to start drinking water out of desperation. So the right thing to do is to do a lot of apnea control exercises and stay calm, never despair. Practice swimming and control apnea and stress control, so you don't act desperately and relax when you feel like you're in a washing machine in the water.
Ya mentioned hitting the bottom but barely mentioned hitting your surfboard. I have more friends hit their board going over the falls than the bottom with one losing an eye, and couple others breaking limbs. Hell, even the legendary Gerry Lopez landed on his rectum hitting his board going over the falls. He was in the hospital for a long time and almost did not survive.
Can confirm. I don’t even have many hours of surfing..the last time I went i learned what going over the falls meant. It meant getting absolutely tossed and body slammed underwater…rolled around until disoriented completely, and dragged along the bottom about 50 yards until I stood up half dead in shin deep water. This was *maybe* a ten foot wave 😂
I had a severe herniated disc once from being pommeled headfirst, going upside down onto the shallow sand at a shorebreak wipeout. Six weeks of painful recovery, but I was lucky I didn't end up a paraplegic.
I once I ditched my board at Hazards Canyon Montana De Oro CA, on over 10 foot sets total of six in a row. I checked my 6 and no other surfers were following, but still regret ditching. Had a weak not neoprene coated bungee cord leash that snapped. The board washed up and the rest was easy just dive before the break on the remaining cleanups. I dove so deep I saw some fishes on the reef ..very cool. I used a technique when sucked up in the face. Point the nose of the board toward the shore, hugging the tale tight. Punch then pull the board through the face, if sucked over hold onto the board very tight and its possible to ride out the soup. It's a rough ride with some flips but eventually you'll fly out of the soup. Hold downs never last that long though seem like forever in a panic. Getting caught inside will always suck, but becomes less of a nightmare over time.
It was at Newport Beach, The Wedge where I had my first Over the Falls moment and It was about mid day and the waves were pretty average at about 4-6ft. But then a huge set came in and I decided that these waves were the perfect ride..I underestimated their break and the first wave I came about, I was pumping the barrel and got too close to the body eventually looping over and falling on a mound of sand instead of water. However after I landed on the sand whitewater swept over me and thankfully the only injury that I had endured was a jammed finger: Note this was on bodyboard
ive almost finished my patented design for a life saving device called Lastbreath for big wave surfers, worn like a watch, sometimes holding your breath dosnt work when 100 tons of water presses your lungs flat ant you have to take 2 or 3 on the head.
How does it work?
Going through the washing at 56 and a torn shoulder hurts now in any size wave cant imagine what GMAC feels like with that busted up body he lives with🤙
My nose was one massive scab 76/77 north shore Oahu..16 years old..skipping school everyday to avoid getting pummeled by locals at wahiwa high ( leilahua high school) for just 10 cents you could take " the bus " around the whole island if you wanted..but hanging at Waimea or pipe was the norm...McDonald's serving tray , and pair of voit duck feet fins ( couldn't afford churchills) I would body surf in conditions above my capabilities..back then the life guards used megaphone to warn people that " SETS " were coming..you either swam out deep or got out...OR GOT CAUGHT IN BETWEEN as many did .. the balls of 16 year old are big and lung capacity pretty strong as well...but getting slammed into sand , reef and not knowing which way is up ..only to actually break the surface and inhale nothing but foam ..crazy shit. A GI saved my life once and someone else..I couldn't thank because they left before I regained consciousness...smoking bud at closed haleiva movie theater with owners Phillipino grandson was certainly a much safer endeavor...he let me help pick / cut colas off plants in the canefields... the potency of the weed was uncommon back then...and my nose only ran ..not bled .from coughing fits..yeah I wandered in my story..but 100% true...leaving for the east coast that spring..looking down from plane...I promised myself I would never return to that violent hunk of lava again...also thought I knew what black people went through..to be hated because of your skin color..I was a fu.king haole.. lastly..final 2 months on Oahu..long sun bleached blonde hair and a command of the pigeon English..I could pass as a Hawaiian haole ( someone who grew up there) and avoided the regular beatings that most others received on a regular basis.
Hell of a story. Felt like I was there. Hope you're better now.
I don't surf. I don't even live near the beach. But this was still very interesting too watch.
1998 Andy Irons Pipeline Masters wipeout was insane. AI’s board broke in 4 pieces & he grabbed another board & paddled right back out.
you're awesome - my greatest fear. Panic to focus. thank you
Exactly. Mine too. I’ll just watch from the shore
Truer words have never been spoken..no matter what you must control your breathing..stay alert and..as much as possible relaxed.
Today I was at sunset beach shore break and I went over the falls but since there has been bug waves, it moved the sand off the reef and rocks and I landed right on my right elbow and my friend also went over the falls
I surfed many yrs in san diego. Dont recall going over the falls that badly. Yikes!!!
there's Been times I came up laughing and times I swore I was never going in the water agian 😂
got lawn darted at bonita - south padre on a closed out day had no business being there but too kooky to know - just had to try - alone of course - young body survived a lot of those but i remember all but one lol
Hurricane waves can make you feel like you’re going to drown even if they’re only five or 6 feet, the undertow is tremendous !
Ayayay !
I was going out because I saw the set and went over the falls on the first wave leading to a set of 5 waves on my head
I carry a pack of cigarettes 🚬 under my board so I can smoke before the 2 wave hold down. Great video!
The bigger the board the harder to duck dive. Once I went over 7’ I had a hard time duck diving. Never been on waves over 6’ so I won’t ever have to worry about the monstrosities in this video.
I was surfing at san blas in mexico and got sucked over the falls twice on the same wave.
Lickily some one saw it and congratulated me.
It’s more than that, possibilities, blown ear drum, dislocation of limbs, hold downs….
Going backwards over the falls also has your board in very close proximity to you, it can/will hit you. I've got several dents, and stitches from this highly unwanted activity.... yet, I'm paddling out again later... duh. Never quit, never surrender!
My favorite strategy for avoiding all of these dangerous waves is staying inside and playing video games. 100% effective!
Broke my femur in Maui going over the falls and hitting the reef. It was a freak wave where 2 waves seemed to come together. The lip hit my shoulders and SLAM, it happened quick. Paddling past the inner break was torture with my bone sticking through my wetsuit. Sucked.
If your femur was sticking through your wetsuit you would have passed out from shock, regardless of adrenaline.
@@Dobertathon Didn’t happen bro. Although I was in shock, I never passed out. Maui lifeguards were great but said they had never seen anything like it before. The closest I came to passing out was during the tumble through the inner break. But I had a goal, had to make it to the beach.
I called it at 8 feet , any larger the hold downs were to long , I really don’t know how these
guys do it 👍
I was bodysurfing at Sandy's, Oahu, and it was an epic day. IO caught some good waves and a set was coming in and I missed the first wave, which is the best wave, cause the back waves ruin the rest of the waves, so, I was caught in the "mush" and caught a radical wave, which pitched me over and wedged my foot in the sand on impact and when the wave hit me, snapped my fibula...the conditions were so fun, I wasn't aware my ankle was broken, until I landed on it and I had to cut my fin cause my ankle was so swollen. Sandy's is not a joke.I was very lucky. People break their necks, get major head injuries...I was lucky
Wow that’s unreal it’s always unexpected when you’re in great conditions guess it’s a reminder. And I have bodyboarded over there Before it’s mental.
Duck dive everything unless a lip is gonna impact directly on you, or if someone else is in front of you. Ive gotten worked but have been able to float immediately back up with my board and start paddling vs the guy who did 4 cartwheels, has to swim up and get to his board or even call the session quits because their only leash snapped.
If its a beach break and I know Ill have a way better time going in to find a rip current that pulls me out easier, ill usually do that
I can’t take it. Stressful to even watch. I’d die. lol. Cause I’m panicking just watching. 😂
Over the falls when body surfing causes fear of breaking your neck or back. Pulling into a ball is safer even though you're likely to hit bottom. Defend yourself at all times, especially from surfboards. When you come up for air, don't open your mouth until sure that another wave doesn't hit you in the face--better to be facing the shore.
Hi guys, we've been going in the waves in France with my father ever since small, but I never truly went surfing with seasoned surfers/bodyboarders.
Never was part of a group or something like that. When it gets big and you feel like a ragdoll caught, we call it the washing machine (probably because we were 4/5 years old when initiated with my sister !)
Is it something people usually say too, in english countries for example ?
I'm curious about it !
I duck dove a wave large enough that it severed my ACL. The same knee injury so common in the NFL. I wasn't even standing. There was talk of amputation because of the hardware in my knee from a previous knee reconstruction( MCL with tibial plateau oclusion);was not removable and in the way. But with 18 months of physical therapy, I got strong enough for the surgery to be of benefit and I kept my leg and am still surfing. So yes, I concur, there are waves that should not be duckdove
Some 45 years ago, having gone over the falls on my own in a mere 15-18 ft. in Guéthary, France (and received a relentless pounding thereafter), I decided I NEVER wanted to undergo the experience again. I thank God it's not me every time I watch wipe outs in big surf. Plus 6ft. I was out of there, PDQ. I took up high board diving instead. Self inflicted wipe outs were much more do-able.
Yeah this for sure unlocked a new fear💀
I avoid Mooloolabar beach (QLD Australia) because I got dumped and my cheek landed on the sand twisting my neck. I heard it creak. I had a graze on it from the wave pressing me down against the sand and it scraping my face. My ex broke a vertebrae while catching waves in the same beach. I choose deeper waters. My worst fear is not being ragdolled, but being pushed against something solid while being ragdolled.
An over the falls wipe out is when you get pounded so hard on the bottom, you get a sand enema even with a wet suit on.
on small and medium waves, there is an weird behave. if the lip just touch the water in front of you. duck dive shallow. the difference is impressive.
Been there. Almost died. If you're caught in huge sets, which are holding you under for 30, 60, 180 seconds at a time, curl up and protect your head and neck from ocean floor impact, let yourself float to the top, and when you get there, breath as many huge breaths as you can. The next wave is probably falling on you right about now. It's ALL about not panicking. and conserving oxygen. 1 wave (usually) isn't going to kill you. 10 in a row, will. Conserve oxygen. You will always lose if you attempt to fight the ocean.
I almost always try to duck dive because my leash has been snapped to many times throwing the board to the side. Long swim back to the beach and can be dangerous if you really got hammered.