Thanks for showing that. So many memories of surfing there, all the way back to the early `60's; Cowell's, the Point, Steamer, Wild Hook, all the great spots. There was an old gentleman who would walk out to Cowell's, put his board in the water, knee paddle out to the indicator, and wait for that one wave. We all knew him, and when he began to paddle, it was HIS wave. All of us just watched him pull off a perfect, elegant and poised ride all the way to the beach, step off his board, tuck it up under his arm, and walk home. One wave, every day. Just one.
Thanks for showing that. So many memories of surfing there, all the way back to the early `60's; Cowell's, the Point, Steamer, Wild Hook, all the great spots. There was an old gentleman who would walk out to Cowell's, put his board in the water, knee paddle out to the indicator, and wait for that one wave. We all knew him, and when he began to paddle, it was HIS wave. All of us just watched him pull off a perfect, elegant and poised ride all the way to the beach, step off his board, tuck it up under his arm, and walk home. One wave, every day. Just one.
Amazing ❤❤❤
15 ppl waiting for the next set on a 1foot day and 2 more pp paddle out! This is whats wrong with surfing today. Ppl dont have a fkn clue
Worst video ever
People having fun. What's you're fucking problem?