You Might Have The Wrong Bushcraft Knife!
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- čas přidán 25. 07. 2024
- #survival #bushcraft #camping #edc
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00:00 Two Types
00:36 True Scandi
03:17 Sharpening A True Scandi
06:53 Modified Scandi
09:21 Sharpening A Modified Scandi
10:39 Pro Tips - Věda a technologie
To all those out there looking for a knife, don't get too hung up on what kind of scandi grind your knife starts with. After your very first sharpen, it's up to you whether you sharpen it to a true scandi, or microbevel, or even convexing it or ScandiVex. So get whatever knife has everything else you want, and then you can put on the edge of your choice
And if, like me, you aren't great at freehand sharpening it will turn into a scandivex regardless if what you're going for.
Yeah, and the fine text to this comment would say: 'Scandi grinds are extremely hard to sharpen flat by hand because of the curve in the blase, regrinding your knife to a true Scandi will take many hours of manual labor and the result will be a thin edge that might not hold because your knife wasn't designed for it so the blade thickness and steel type are not compatible with such an extreme edge geometry'
Most hand sharpened scandi grinds end up as a scandi-vex, where the grind ends up convex. Personally I prefer it that way and I purposely convex the edge of my scandi knives. A convex edge is still a zero grind with no secondary bevel, but in my opinion is stronger than a flat scandi, and more efficient than a secondary bevel, especially for woodworking.
100% agree. ..
Especially if it's a good high scandi . I do not care for small scandi grinds, they have no room for reprofiling the edge.
My favorite knife after many years has ended up being the Tops Tanimboca Puukko. It comes with a bad profile but after I took it to zero and convexed it I absolutely love it.
It's the first time that I have found myself carrying one knife as my EDC 99.9% of the time. I normally switch between knives, but since I bought that blade, it goes with me everywhere, even church 😄
I've always heard that a true scandi is the easiest to sharpen, but they've always been difficult for me to do without creating that secondary bevel. I will try to sharpen with a pull stroke to see if it helps. Thanks for the tip!
Use sandpaper stuck to a hard flat surface. Put the bevel flat with your fingers pushing down across the blade . You only need to hold the handle to keep control most the pressure comes from your fingertips .
Pull the knife like you're stroping the edge all the way to the end and lift. Redo that process, also you can do it in sections that way and focus in the belly and tip only at times.
You will get a bur very fast so be careful ....
I use 400 grit if the edge is needing alot of work but usually 800 working up through your higher grits until 1500 .
You can just keep going and wear down the bur and it also polishes your grind.
I've tried so many methods, but this one works the best for me.
Once ya have the edge ya want all ya got to do is strop it.
Also I use a hard surface leather with a loaded strop to give all my scandi blades a slight convex . ...A very small one , if ya do it to much the edge will get too blunt.
This method works great for scandis shaped like the Mora Garberg, knives with a steep belly curve. You can work the belly in sections instead of dragging the whole blade in one large motion.
I think Rob Evans does a video on how he sharpens scandi blades that way on his channel.
Hope this helps.
Right on, good luck and hope it works out to keep that 0° edge for you.
Sandy at Jackloreknives youtube.com/@Jackloreknives also has some videos on how he does it. Very similar to what’s described above I think.
@@Airik1111bibles That's exactly what I needed to hear. Thanks!! I'll give it a shot.
More fixed blades...hell yeah, thanks for the content!!
I like the natural progression a scandi or modified scandi takes to becoming a convex edge with a sponge and some sandpaper.
Excellent information. Thank you.
Good confirmation, very clear explanation and visualisation - thank you 👍🇬🇧✌️
You're very welcome
Scandi-vex. Learned from Dutch Bushcraft Knives channel.
If CZcams starts limiting knife channels, I’ll no longer need to keep my Premium membership on CZcams. They already limited my gun channels, and I won’t stick around if they limit knives also.
Most people are unfortunately terrified of knives. Too many nut-cases allowed to run around loose.
I've been collecting and using knives for hunting and fishing and camping and carving/whittling, since the late 70's. I never knew anything about grind or angle back then. Took me along time to figure that out. My favorite camp knife of all times is a Russell Green River knife. No idea what the steel is, but its got a 20 degree edge, so very sharp. And it really does every thing I want it too. Just my two cents worth.
Thanks for a great discussion! Personally I just find the pure scandi easiest to sharpen using sandpaper and a flat board, and the Jokers, Casstroms, and Moras have held up as well, or better than, my Bark River full convex (or other micro bevels like TOPS) ones after significant beating on wood. ✌️ 👊
Good explanation, but I prefer a Convex Scandi grind as found on my BRK knives. Especially with 3V or better quality steel, easily stropped in the field, but rarely needed.
Best explanation of scandi I've seen!
My ultralite bushcrafter from Bark River has a scandivex blade, and I absolutely love it. Never been a fan of using any if my scandi/bushcraft knives for any rougher tasks. I tend to carry a large knife or thick machete when I am out in the woods, like the Condor Warlock. I have convexed the blades of most of my larger blades and think they hold up better that way. Great video.
BRK for the win!
They do make some fine knives.
I recently picked up a Benchmade Bushcrafter on a whim, and even though it's a little dated, I always appreciate a quality, beefy fixed blade, especially for bushcrafting. I need to expand my scandi blade collection though.
This is a great knife! A proud owner as well.
This was an excellent explanation. Thank you brother
Glad it was helpful!
I use a slightly aggressive compound on my strop and put a 'convex micro-bevel' on my scandies. It works well for me, but I a FAR from an expert.
Coming from the land of Puukkos, Scandi grinds were to only outdoor knives I knew. Only later in life tested flat grinds etc.
Thanx for the video!
Cheers from the village of Fiskars, Finland!
Thanks for sharing!
Very well explained, thanks. Also some great comments, thank you guys, too.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I favor a slight Scandi-vex. Lots of the benefits of a true Scandi, but much more durable, and super easy to maintain/sharpen, even with a strop.
I absolutely love this kind of content. I’m always up to learn more. I personally don’t have much of a need for bushcraft style blades. But I’m a knife nerd to the core!
Also, have you considered starting a Patreon? I support a few of my favorite content creators on that platform.
So glad you enjoyed this video. I am working on something like that in 2024 and a few other things.
Great informative video.
Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Hello Gideon, keep up the good work and vids. Hope y'all had a great Thanksgiving and wishing you a Merry Christmas! Be safe and take care, "God Bless", sincerely, Randy. 🙏😇👊
Thanks so much, Randy! Same to you
Very informative video. Thanks man.
No problem! Thanks for watching
There's an amazing 9" Bushcraft knife by flissa on Amazon from what I've seen... I just got in the market for a Bushcraft knife and morakniv was one I was looking at... The full tang model what it's called... Then I came across the flissa 9" and it's different but way I think! Would love to see a video from you on this blade thanks I'm advance from ND
😊great information, thanks. I have bolt.
I grew up in Scandinavia, I only knew Scandi grind, and always a true Scandi. And that was what all those around me used as well. And it worked well. And so easy to sharpen.
Good and really useful info again bro 👍
Glad you liked it!!
While a scandi-type grind works wood well, a full flat grind, with a convexed edge is a much more versatile option for camp chores in the woods or bushcraft if you will.
Thanks for another very informative video. You made me realize that all of my ‘scandi’ knives actually have a ‘scandi-vex’ edge. I guess they aren’t ‘true’ scandi edge after all. I prefer durability over the ability to do fine woods crafting. Keep up the good work Aaron.
I tend to agree with you 👍
In my opinion a modified Scandi is more practical. Sometimes I maintain my modified scansi edge on a strop which is not a great idea for the long term because I will eventually end up with scandivex in a way. And then I will need to reproduce the entire blade in order to restore it. At some point the stripping will make the edge too beefy and a reprofiling will be needed.
I do not have many scandi blades though. I prefer saber grind which is a high scandi in a way or convex blades.
On all my puukko knives I have put a microbevel. This is because if used on any harder wood than pine their 0 scandi edges will roll.
Great videos Aaron and keep up!
I like a knife like your Brisa Trooper but with a high true Scandi edge. But you’re right, I’ve tried multiple knives and steels at those angles and they just don’t hold up. I’ve had a few steels hold up okay at around 25 degrees inclusive, but most start holding an edge closer to 30 degrees which makes to obtuse of an angle on the thicker knives I prefer. I keep trying different combinations similar results and I end up back to using my convexed blades. I leave the scandi’s to small thin blades...
Note: I also have problems with true convexed blades if there ground to thin. Most convexed blades I receive new these days come with a micro bevel also...drives me nuts!
I don't use scandi's anymore. They did exactly what you said about deforming and chipping. I am different on the sharpening. I find the true scandi much harder to sharpen also much much longer. Even with a diamond stone. If you dont hold it exactly perfect, its off and the whole bevel surface has to be sharpened which is about 6 to 8 times or more , the surface area to remove material than a secondary bevel type. The secondary bevel is way more forgiving on the sharpening angle. Plus i also have some true scandi's and all the tips are broke. The tips have the same problem of weakness like the true scandi edges have. Now i only buy/use saber or ffg knives. Never have problems with them like i had with my scandi's. Never looking back.
This is exactly why I secondary convex most of my skandis. When you look at Lt‘s thin stock skandis, they will chip and roll when you grind them to zero. This is also the reason why Lt. hard buffs their skandi knives and give them a secondary convex direct from the factory. And when you keep the angle of the secondary bevel shallow, you will almost feel no difference to a skandi to zero. It also feathers nicer in my opinion, because it will flow over the wood instead of directly biting into it. It also helps with maintaining, because you can strop the edge much better and you don’t need to remove that much of material when maintaining the edge in the field. So you just gain a lot of benefits with the secondary bevel. (Excuse my English, I’m German. Hope you can unterstand, what I wrote.😅)
I'll take a Scandi-Vex over a Zero-Edge Scandi or a Micro-Bevel Scandi any day.
For me flat grind works best. Eg. Good old LT Wright Trekker with delicate tip.
Great walk thru for an ignorant person such as myself. Thank you!
Glad to help and educate whenever possible 👍
To me it comes down to how you sharpen. Using stones by hand then by all means get that scandi edge sharp as heck on a good hard stainless steel. If I have a sharpening system where I can dial in a few degrees then I’ll put a micro bevel.
I’d love to see you review a Gough custom. Most utilitarian blade I’ve ever used. Happy to send mine your way.
Awesome thanks for the suggestion. I’ll look into those blades and let you know.
@@gideonstactical you bet. Thanks for the effort.
look at a DMT. mini stone. ,green. a plastic cover folds over. fits in the pack / pocket great. 1,200 grit.
True Scandi all the way. I have never had an edge roll. 🔪🎸
Well explained. But a scandi to zero is only good on soft wood and soft food. It will roll on you if you try really hard wood of maybe touch a bone in the meat. So to me they are useless. I tested a scandi to zero (true scandi) on an Enzo (now Brisa) Elver in Colombia. It was the agreement I would test it as delivered. I have a video where you see the edge rolled on a piece of hard wood. It was easily fixed by giving it a small secondary bevel and never had a problem again. That is also in the video. But even when you look at the old scandi grind Puukkos they always have a small secondary bevel. They deliver scandi to zero knives to make your own secondary bevel. Often, and what I do, is just stropping the knife giving it a small convex. Scandi to zero is pretty useless.
G'day Aaron, nice follow up to your previous vid mate. Incidentally, a bloke told me recently that a true scandi is a more modern approach, than with a secondary edge, .... I always thought it the other way around. Anyway, whichever came first, I'm with ya, I keep Moras and the Finn Wolf zero, where as the more robust Terava Puukko comes with a secondary ..... and understandably so. As much as I like 'em, just "another" reason why a Mora, (and others), dont cut the mustard on the trail IMO.
And btw; there is a third option, a "scandivex", .... intentional ...... or perhaps unintentional ; )
Cheers Duke.
Great video
It looks as cold there as it is here in Scotland currently
Ya we are experiencing 45F during the day at 20F at night this week
@@gideonstactical I don't know how Americans measure things, but we're getting -4c at night and in the morning and between 1 and 3c during the peak of the day, which is like 47 bald eagles cold (or whatever system you guys use).
I learned something today!
A great video with interesting aspects. What is the difference between the modified Scandi grind and the Saber Grind? The difference could be difficult. William Collins once said that the modified Scandi is always ground to zero first and only then is the secondary bevel applied. The Saber Grind is never ground to zero. But I don't know.
That is a good question and I agree with that statement.
You totally missed the scandi-vex
Where the final edge is convex
Start with a zero grind
Then let your sharpening get a little sloppy
Not really it is just loosing the zero and letting the edge slightly convex
The edge is like it is zero but the very fine fragile edge is much stronger
When I get a new scandi I put it to the stones to get a zero grind, then let it develop with time and repeated sharpening to a micro convex
Stropping is the first breaking of the zero edge
usually reprofile my Moras to true scandi then convex slightly.
I prefer pushing the blade across the sharpening stone instead of pulling it across, I just feel like it works better, but I never sharpen my scandi grinds because I strop them after each use, i dont want to sharpen them because it just looks terrible 😂
If you feel you didn’t need to sharpen your skandi, than you don’t use them. Stropping will dull the edge after a time more than sharpening it, because of the rounding of the edge and you will need a new burr and removal after use. There is now way around stone sharpening a blade, don’t matter wich grind you use.
Hmmm, I have had a Roselli carpenter for twenty years. I thought it was a true scandi. Recently, a Roselli utube vid said that the correct way to sharpen the blade was to start with a o degree edge, then, add about three degrees’ to remove the slight burr that developed from sharpening to zero degrees’. Thoughts?
You can do that too
I put my Mora Carbon back to a true scandi (26 inclusive), and it rolled like
a mofo. Had to put a micro back on it.
Maybe try skipping scandi all together.
@@4673962 yes just an experiment. Next experiment is a convex.
Nice video got all i need in survival knives. But want a great scandi not worried if its cheap or pricey. What would be the best overall scandi all opinions are appreciated thanks
Helle knives are really good, I know the LT Wright genesis gets a lot of love as well.
Hello, I have been watching your reviews of knives from various manufacturers for a long time. I am from Poland, where quite a lot of knives made from scratch in small workshops have recently started to appear. Most of them can compete on par with the big brands. I can send you something to look at. Regards
Let’s be honest. If you want a great scandi grind just get an LTWright fixed blade, USA made, lifetime warrantee,and LT Wright has a knife spa.
I would rather a wooden handled Mora for a few dollars and sharpen how I want my edge to be
@@neemancallender9092 That’s fine. Everyone likes different things.
I am an amateur and true scandi proved to be the suitable shape for me. Sharpening attempt went well with little instruction from the CZcams.
I have only handled a true scandi once or twice and honestly don't think it is for me. Most of my tasks with the knife on a hike / camping would revolve around chopping sticks for walking / protection from monkeys / tent pegs and food prep.
But if i had to choose, i think i would go for the modified scandi - gifted my nephew a Tops Brakimo and he concurs. It is a general allrounder and easy to maintain.
according to Morakniv "edge angles" web page True Scandi Grind has the micro bevel and Scandi Grind Zero is without the microbevel.
Thanks for the tip.
True Scandi for me,
Aaron I bought a pair of belts from groove belt (BOGO sale) and they asked me to do a survey afterwards. They asked where I heard about them and I said CZcams and they then asked what channel. I told them that I wasn’t sure but I thought it was GT (I spelled it out). Idk if I seen any advertisements for them on your channel but hopefully you get some credit for it 👊🏼
Awesome Rich, I really appreciate it!
I know mine isn't what would be called the right one, today. My Kaybar has been with me since 1981 and gone to every continent.
rhombic scandi-vex ftw lets go!
There is another way you haven't mentioned and that is to convex the scandi to make a convex micro bevel or convex a straight ground micro bevel which is a lot easier than reprofiling the entire scandi grind. No matter what grind I have, I never push a fine edge forward. I always use a draw motion. Pushing a fine edge forward on a stone will ALWAYS degrade a truly fine edge. To get to the fine edge you must push the blade into the stone grit. Otherwise you have not reached the apex of the edge. Therefore, the grit of the stone will cause fine aberrations at the very edge. Of course, you can use ultra fine stones and strop to reduce them but not eliminate them. In contrast, the problem with drawing the edge back can create a drawn out, elongated burr that will need to be stropped or somehow removed by bending it back and forth. It really depends on the knife steel as to how difficult it is to remove the burr.
High sabre grind is my preference.
I think the new Reif has one of those.
Same here!!!!!!
I prefer a zero scandi if I have a scandi at all. If I am going to be doing any sort of batoning or chopping then I prefer a convex or saber grind. If I want a knife that can do it all then I prefer a saber or full flat grind.
I have a blade that is a true Scandi (simple by bear forest) but I rolled it first use…I was disappointed but am not sure if I am ready to give up on it yet. Do I give it a secondary bevel!?
Try a little micro bevel first! See if you like how it performs.
If it still doesn't work, try a Convex on it!
I agree, put a micro bevel on it and see how it does.
I’ve tried resharpening to true Scandi several times on several blades I had the same problem with but have yet to have any success at improved edge retention until I put on that dreaded “Micro-Bevel”
How are you liking the Reiff Scandi grind using CPM-3V? It seems like that steel would hold up really well to that type of grind. LMK. Thanks!
I love it, the 3V is a good and does hold help well for a zero
@@gideonstactical Thanks for that confirmation. Emily, Ben & Stu really have something special. Even better, they really value their customers. I found out about them through your channel.
What was the big blade your were carrying when you discussed the pants?
Montana Knife Company Marshall video coming soon.
Thanks-looking forward to it!
This video is misleading- The Condor Terrasaur does not come with that secondary edge you pictured. It comes from the factory with a slightly convexed scandi grind.
I forget if I sharpened this or that knife all the time;)
EVERY scandi I've had that didn't have a secondary bevel CHIPPED LIKE CRAZY! Lol i don't understand it... almost seemed like it didn't matter what steel even.
440c 154cm hell even my CPM M4 and 3v came out with chips. 😢
I've started putting that secondary edge on ALLLLLLL my scandies!
(Even trying a tanto scandi!) A scanto 😮
Ya I tend to have the same experience. The reiff in 3V did better than most.
If memory serves me correctly, history books say the original Scandi knives were really what we know as Scandi-vex today. If that is correct then I would argue that what termed a true Scandi is really a modified Scandi and putting a stupid micro-bevel on it ruins the whole experience...I know, too literal. Lol
I prefer Scandivex
A lot of sloppy knife sharpeners sort of wind up with a scandivex.
Nah, my problem is that I have too many. I like collecting knives.
I've never liked scandi grind
My preference is FFG
There is a third way to sharpen a Scandi grind. Keep the inside bevel a true flat grind without a secondary bevel. This will be the side of the blade that rides the wood for carving tasks. On the outside bevel go ahead and add a microbevel. This gives you the slicing capability of a true Scandi grind while also introducing a slightly more obtuse angle at the edge making it more durable. We do this with the bevel side on chisels and handplane blades all the time to give us a more durable edge while maintaining a flat reference. I do the same grind with my hatchet which gives me more finesse doing bushcraft with it.
Was that a TOPS Prather?
I own one, but it wasn’t in the video??
@@gideonstactical When you were doing the ad bit, I thought it looked you were rocking one! Just wanna be sure, been obsessed with Bowies lately
@@Leonisdarko I see 👍
Look 100 year old knives from Scandinavian makers.... all look pretty convexed to me..
Buck 119'er mo-fos
Condors are junk
Most are, that’s why you haven’t seen them often on the channel. This is a pretty good blade for the money.
Disappointed with my Condor Kephart. Soft steel and uneven grind.
This is interesting but you forgot one very important point: The quality of steel. A good steel like CPM3V willl hold its edge much longer. So a full scandi CPM3V does the job just perfect. the Condor you've showed is low quality.
BTW, I like your channel and I don't mind that you try to promote it. But to go as far as asking us to preach all over for your channel? Out of 11:50, 2:40 were pure advertising. It's a bit too much. Just saying...
Thanks for the feed back!
@@gideonstactical First time I can't give you 100% on one of your videos lol
Just buy a knife and sharpen it the way you want it sharpened. Really not rocket science.
I think the point here is to select the grind you want by knowing the difference. Otherwise you are reprofiling, which is a lot of work and kind of wasteful.
@@MJA5 Reprofiling an edge is easy. Buy the configuration/ergo's/steel/treat/hardness/scales etc. that you want, then profile the edge how you want it. Sooner or later you're going to do it anyway.
@paulmarshall9189 yeah I agree with you. That's what I do. Every knife I get I put it on the stones and give it a convex.
You need to do some survival knives this whole Bushcraft thing is overrated!
Will do!!
This is a video that you make when you want to make a pointless video.
Why rude?
Thanks for the feed back
Oh yeah, anyone interested in a nice "tough" folding scandi I'd have to suggest the Kizer comfort! PHENOMENAL knife!!! Feels amazing in hand, great lock up, and the bright red G10 is almost impossible to lose in the woods 🪵
I’ll have to look into that one!
So all these videos will explain why I should go into the wild with a 200$ knife and use it like a hatchet , no I will also take a cheap hatchet to beat on
I've got a Tops mini scandi that I reprofiled into a zero edge. Didn't make sense they'd put a secondary bevel on such a small fine wood working blade. I like it better with the true scandi profile.
My MSF 4.0 came in a true Scandi and was amazingly sharp but the first time I really used it, it destroyed the edge. I tried several times but the N690 steel at that angle needs a micro bevel.
@dlrmon1 oh wow, that's wild. Mine is the 1095 fixed blade one. It's interesting they'd have a secondary bevel on the fixed carbon steel version while having a true scandi on the folder version.