don't you think the design could be improved with a pointer-finger groove on the top? that's the difference btw a camera rig handle and a plane handle: the forefinger goes over the top on the camera rig. i also think the rake angle is too far-forward for a camera rig handle. on a plane you need your forefinger ahead of your pinkie finger by a lot because you're pushing the plane horizontally. not so with a camera. so, more upright hold angle and a groove on top for the pointer finger would make it better i think. maybe fatter, too.
@@aap71 Yes I thought about putting an index finger and thumb groove in it. That's why I showed hooking my finger over the top. I didn't want to "fix" the shape to much into one position so that I can change hand positions and see what works. The angle is adjustable by the rosette. The shape is fit for my hand. The advantage to using the plane tote shape is that it "hangs" on your hand. I did make it wider but possible it could be even wider. I will use it for a while and see if improving it is justified. Always learn from the first go around.
Stumbled across your channel threw machining videos and you have some very interesting projects , I've been binge watching all weekend. You have a new subscriber. Gotten threw most of them and see you hand sanding a lot. A good D A sander would work good for you. Thanks for the time you put into making the videos and sharing them.
Well done sir! Gorgeous addition and should help with the cool pan shots. Next step will be to move to a 3-axis gimbal. What are the things tat you have "on order?" Collets of some type? Don't recognize them?
Thanks Scott. That would be cool but I don't really think that I need it. Just wanted to be able to grab the camera off the tripod and be able to do a close up shot or short pan, which is easy to get away with the way it is. They are expanding arbors, in the set they are standard sizes. When you tighten the center screw they can expand .005 to .010 to grip your part in the center for OD turning operations. Chuck it in the lathe square up the part and go, easy!
@@BurtonsAttic It's true, does make a person a tad frustrated though. Luckily you didn't have to toss the piece and start over. Anyone that has ran a router more than a few times has found a knot or two, nice save btw.
I’d have used the router much sooner, you sanded everything smooth then routed away all that work.. sure it needs to be smoothish but you easily could have halfed how much sanding you did
The profile needs to be smooth before routing. Any defect in the profile will be transferred to the work by the guide bearing. So sand before or sand after. After will be hard to fix.....Really didn't take that long to put a flat edge around it and get the shape right.
Hey just watched Let's talk about video, great shots. I saw your rigs. One of them looked like it had what your talking about? Fill me in or make a private video and show me.
Great job but cannot beleive you lacquered a beautiful peice of hard wood. when the natural oils and use would make it look and feel a million dollars but the laquer will just turn sticky.
Well done. very nice project!
Thanks man!
don't you think the design could be improved with a pointer-finger groove on the top? that's the difference btw a camera rig handle and a plane handle: the forefinger goes over the top on the camera rig. i also think the rake angle is too far-forward for a camera rig handle. on a plane you need your forefinger ahead of your pinkie finger by a lot because you're pushing the plane horizontally. not so with a camera. so, more upright hold angle and a groove on top for the pointer finger would make it better i think. maybe fatter, too.
@@aap71 Yes I thought about putting an index finger and thumb groove in it. That's why I showed hooking my finger over the top. I didn't want to "fix" the shape to much into one position so that I can change hand positions and see what works. The angle is adjustable by the rosette. The shape is fit for my hand. The advantage to using the plane tote shape is that it "hangs" on your hand. I did make it wider but possible it could be even wider. I will use it for a while and see if improving it is justified. Always learn from the first go around.
Lovely handle great job 👍🏻
Will make it easier to chase Alex around, good work!
Another fine project from the Attic. Nicely done!
Good job. I wish I had seen that 10 yrs. ago when I was doing wedding photography. It would have made my day go a little easier.
Stumbled across your channel threw machining videos and you have some very interesting projects , I've been binge watching all weekend. You have a new subscriber. Gotten threw most of them and see you hand sanding a lot. A good D A sander would work good for you. Thanks for the time you put into making the videos and sharing them.
Thanks, I have several DA's and have worn out a few more....
you have an amazing tool collection burton. and the expertise to match. I hope your channel gets noticed
Thanks Jake!
Absolutely stunning. Love it!
The sockets come in handy for something :)
Cheers
Yeah I don't use a 1 5/16 much anymore. I think that was for the pitman arm on a Chevy. Anywho, yeah sockets are great for marking radius.
I love your project ❤️
Much nicer handle, Excellent work
Looks like it should have been that way in the beginning, nice work
very nice indeed sir!
Wow, this is some great craftsmanship !!!!! Awesome !!!
"Thats real nice" there Burton! Great project! Keep 'em coming! o7
10 / 10 . Excellent work.
Well done sir! Gorgeous addition and should help with the cool pan shots. Next step will be to move to a 3-axis gimbal. What are the things tat you have "on order?" Collets of some type? Don't recognize them?
Thanks Scott. That would be cool but I don't really think that I need it. Just wanted to be able to grab the camera off the tripod and be able to do a close up shot or short pan, which is easy to get away with the way it is. They are expanding arbors, in the set they are standard sizes. When you tighten the center screw they can expand .005 to .010 to grip your part in the center for OD turning operations. Chuck it in the lathe square up the part and go, easy!
Very cool. I would have left the router ding in a then inscribed a oups then poured contrasting epoxy. We all make mistakes and that is OK We learn
Very nice indeed. Job well done. What type of wood did you use for the vice jaws ? I’m in the process of restoring an old woodwork vice.
Oak.
What’s that flat black plastic sheet attached to the top of the camera? It’s partially in frame at 14:17
That's the "barn door" light reflector for the LED light panel. There are four of them on the outside of the panel.
Oh okay, interesting! Nice job with this project.
That will let you hold that camera without shake. Good deal
so cool man
Best video I've watched all day
Which Panasonic did you go with if you don’t mind me asking? See you have the rode. What’s the best accessory in your opinion? Oh and great job!
Thanks, GH5. A LED light panel.
www great job
super super super.
Awesome!!!!!
Cool
A very nice project...
I got one question: Where did you find those expanding mandrel set for the lathe (minute 11:35)?
Search expanding arbor on Amazon. The set I purchased is US made.
@@BurtonsAttic Thank you!
Clean build! How long do you think it took to make one?
I'm guessing it was about 8 hours. Was a fun project, could make a lot faster if you batch out a few.
I just got a half cage for my new Sony and want to make a handle like yours. Where did you source those black serrated detent washer thingy? Thanks!
Never mind, just found it
I ordered them from eBay. I think from Singapore. Good price, ordered 2 sets of Rosettes.
Burton's Attic yeah, I found them once I learned what they are called. Thanks!
SOMEONE GET THIS MAN A DRUM SANDER STAT
The title should have been "What knot to do while routing" =P
Stuff happens
@@BurtonsAttic It's true, does make a person a tad frustrated though. Luckily you didn't have to toss the piece and start over. Anyone that has ran a router more than a few times has found a knot or two, nice save btw.
@@ianide2480 Yup! Fortunately I had made it a little long so it worked out! Thanks
I’d have used the router much sooner, you sanded everything smooth then routed away all that work.. sure it needs to be smoothish but you easily could have halfed how much sanding you did
The profile needs to be smooth before routing. Any defect in the profile will be transferred to the work by the guide bearing. So sand before or sand after. After will be hard to fix.....Really didn't take that long to put a flat edge around it and get the shape right.
if only you made a right side with arri rosette with start and stop record for a6500
Hey just watched Let's talk about video, great shots. I saw your rigs. One of them looked like it had what your talking about? Fill me in or make a private video and show me.
Great job but cannot beleive you lacquered a beautiful peice of hard wood. when the natural oils and use would make it look and feel a million dollars but the laquer will just turn sticky.