Rockmill Custom X Axis Power Feed
Vložit
- čas přidán 7. 02. 2020
- I convert a commonly available Bridgeport style power feed to fit on the Rockmill. I have searched for over a year to find the original Rockwell power feed and that appears to be a rare item indeed. Never have used the original power feed unit but this one works great even being the lowest power unit available. Happy to complete this one as I'm cranking a whole lot less now! Thanks for watching!
- Jak na to + styl
I’m binge watching you right now. Also ordered the same caliper you have... keep it up!
Thanks man! Those calipers are great just because the screen is so big and I don't wear glasses. Should work even better for you since you do. No eye strain!
@@BurtonsAttic what make are the calipers, I need BIG screen, my eyes are old
Thanks
@@steveb936 Shars
I was able to interpret your exceptional video and install a power feed on my Rockwell mill. I am a relative newbie to machining. Prior to this project I hadn't: bored to a precise diameter; cut an interior keyway or even heard of a woodruff key. So, it was quite a journey, but I was so elated when I got the axis to move, I felt the need to thank you and express my appreciation for your fine work I deconstructed the limit switches. They are conventional NC momentary switches. I have some DRO stuff in the way, So I bought two panel-mountable momentary pushbutton switches and I'll design and build a housing that will work. Anyway thanks again for the inspiring video!
Great Mark, happy to hear it. I like that you said you deconstructed the video! I remember comments on this video that it was too long and hard to follow. Glad you figured it out. Make sure all you adjustments are correct so you don't bined!
Superbly done and a pleasure to watch. So many CZcamsrs leave out their hiccups, it was nice to see and ultimately what you did to correct the issue 👍👍👍
Thanks Mick. I guess the point was small mistakes can ruin your part...
I'm in awe. Such great care taken for the minor details. I love what you did with the tool post!
Thanks Matt
Happy you were able to find 3 and 69/128 inch stock!
Man do you know how hard it is to find that stuff? I thought someone would get a kick out of the 128th scale!
Great job! The whole time I was yelling. "now what the Hay is he doing"? And, of course, it turned out beautiful! Love your custom shifter. Voice, no voice, all OK with me!
You've done an instructive job of fitting the same drive I have to a different mill, and thank you for posting it.
Nearly none of your efforts have directly informed what my application requires; often where your needs require a machined 'male' part, mine needed a 'female', but your parts designs kept me aimed in the right direction.
One gripe; I would not put up with the lack of a right-hand hand-wheel; I'm right-handed. Spent quite a bit of time designing and machining and fitting a zero-index ring at the right hand side and making sure the hand-wheel fitted (and was keyed to) the extended lead screw.
Can't post images here, but my mill will get a X-axis power feed in, at worst, a week (maybe a day or two), including the hand-wheel. Very satisfying.
Thanks for your assistance.
Glad to assist! My table is only 24" so it's easy to reach both sides easily. Before the power feed I mostly used the left hand wheel so I didn't feel the need to put on the right one. Plus it's a little safer when I reach for the power feed leveler. I don't need to look because there's nothing to get caught on. Thanks for commenting.
Great video
Excellent workmanship
Thanks Arnold
How cool is that, you blow me away everytime . I was going tthruough withdrawals not seeing any of your videos lately. Absolutely excellent work
Thanks Jack
That's beautiful work, well done!
Great workmanship. It’s neat to see adapting something intended for a larger mill to the Rockwell
Thanks James, I got the lowest power output model just for that very reason. Seems to be working great so far and not to much for the machine. I haven't gone super aggressive with it yet.
Just found your channel and immediately subscribed. Binge watching now. You've got mad skills I tell ya!
Welcome Jim and Thx!
You do a job the way I wish I could do a job. Quality finish, and fix your equipment as you go instead of later. Good work
Later usually leads to never...
Nice! Great photography. Alex is growing up fast.
That he is Larry
Just found your channel.....very enjoyable. I think i may live close to you, Im on the west side of Winston -Salem
Fist cross slide shaper I’ve ever seen. Creative solution! 😃
Just working with what I have. Actually not hard to setup compared to the mill and you can see what your doing better/easier.
great video. nice workmanship.
Thanks Keith
that blue vice is amazing,. also great work.
Thanks Boxy, which one? I happen to have 4 blue vises...
Excellent work. I have the vertical Rockwell and the power feed is sitting in the floor waiting. Nice work!
Good luck!
Geat video man...Thanks for sharing your skills...;-)
Turned out perfect. You need to paint the whole machine black and white ;)
Hey man, don't go making more work for me! Figured I'd paint it the same as the other motors.
I did this on a Weiss mill also using a Servo style feed box. Works like a champ for 1/3 the cost of other options.
top-class work
You did an amazing job.
Thanks Nick
Nice 5 minute bolt on addition to the mill :). That was quite the ride Burt!
Thanks for sharing,
Cheers
Thanks Rick, yeah about 5 minutes once you have all the parts!
That was some amazing work with a bunch of improvised solutions. I really enjoyed that. Too bad on the parting tool. I have had that happen as well.
Hey man that's Engineering on the fly and of course working within the limitation of my tooling. I'm sure someone has adapted a Bridgeport power feed to a Rockwell mill before but I couldn't find any documentation of it. Now there is....Glad you enjoyed it!
Kudos! Job well done.
Thanks Craig
I know you went to a lot of trouble adapting that power feed, but I can tell you from experience you are way better off with what you ended up with rather than the original one. I restored one of those mills years ago that had the original feed, it had a nylon gear in it and was a pain in the butt. The originals mounted in place of the casting and manual wheel on that end, just bolted right to the end of the table. They’re a great little mill and you can’t beat being able to use R8 collets that are easy to find. You’ve got a great channel.
Your the first person who has commented that they have used an original power feed. Glad to hear it. I couldn't find an original anyways. Either Rockwell didn't make that many or they all broke because they sucked. It's actually working even better now that the gears are all broke in and messing well. Thanks for commenting Tim.
Very nice work :)
Thanks Pasi
very good video ..thanks for your time
Dude! Don’t worry about the trolls... I like the voiceovers... you sound like my cousin Steve...he’s a cool guy... let them troll my excessive use of ellipses! TP
Thank you, I enjoyed that
Thanks for commenting Don
Just now hoping to finally (within a couple of weeks) fit the 'universal' Bridgeport table drive to my no-name mill, and found this again after making quite a bit of progress.
Wasn't sure what was going on from 5:15 until 8:52 and found you used the existing table (thrust casting) threaded holes to fit an 'adapter' and then drilled the 'adapter' with the gear-case pattern, thereby loading the adapter to the table and loading the drive to the 'adapter' with different fasteners at different axis. Not good.
*Never* transfer axial loads laterally from one fastener to another if you can possibly avoid it and you can as I did; drill and tap the gear case bolt pattern directly into the thrust casting putting the axial loads where they need to be.
9:47 - Also haven't yet bothered with the alignment pins; fitting the inner race to the roller bearing without binding is better than that alternative. May yet fit them to make final fitting easier.
18:48-on Made a drill/tap guide similarly, found the mill lead screw not file-hard but 'hard'. HSS drill bit probably needs a sharpening now; order a cobalt drill and a cobalt tap. My shaft extension is to remain at 16mm D. (ground stock). Center-through-drilled and fastened to the lead screw with a length of m8-1.25 running thread and a nylock nut against the hub of the handwheel. BTW, it is aligned in that the lead screw ends ~half way through the gear hub where the extension begins.
20:37 - See below. Machined the thrust bushings to space it to ~.015" below the surface, ~.015 from full engagement. Hope that's a good number; you'd think the makers would give you a spec for that.
26:28 - Looks like you used an m8 socket head screw to fasten the shaft extension to the lead screw and then a 1/2-13 bolt to tie the hand wheel to the extension? Per above, I used a running thread m8 'stud' through a center-drilled, ground, 16mm extension fastened with a nylock nut to avoid transferring loads across more elements and fasteners than absolutely required. Fewer = gooder.
27:50 - I bought a keyway broach.
30:10 - No right hand handwheel? Not going for that. Will extend the lead screw keyway with an angle grinder, mill a keyway in the shaft extension piece, fit the handwheel and trim the shaft extension to some ~.01" below the outside surface of the handwheel hub, and snug that nylock down to hold the ring/pinion clearance constant.
Thanks for the help, and hope my comments may help others.
Top tip: never use a three jaw chuck for anything other than "rough work" ie +/- .005"/ 0.02mm where concentricity is NOT an issue. Always buy a four jaw chuck first, as it can hold square stock and be trued accurately(time well spent). If you must have quick and precise chucking then use a six jaw self centering chuck of a premium brand. Keep safe and well.
Is it possible to connect the feed box to limit switches to automatically stoop the feed at the end of the table travel? I would be scared of the thing tearing itself apart if it accidentally left to feed to the end of the travel.
Limit switches are already attached to the feed unit. I just didn't show it as I need to fabricate a mount bracket for it yet as the one that came with it will not work for me. Also the video was long enough...
nice build. i am curious as to why you pinned the toolpost. i have two multifix units on 12inch laths and neither has ever moved. i find the 9 degree spacing to be too course at times (boring and threading) . also when lining up the tool post to the chuck face i use a parallel that extends past the chuck jaws to set the tool post.i run the parting tool up against the parallel and lock it down, i gave up on those insert cutoff tools (bangood) and use hss for all my cutting off.
Just making it as ridgid as possible. I like the idea of screwing it down instead of pinning. Could step up to 1/4 pins since I used 6mm screws. I haven't had an issue with movement either. I thought about the clock position as well. Several people have commented to offset another set of holes (or just one hole) so you have a 4.5 degree shift but I put both at zero. So far I haven't needed to but I can just take out the screws and set to whatever. In the pass I was also using the parallel trick but with a small V block since my chuck is 6". Thanks for commenting Larry.
Thanks for your response.
Turns out the adaptation on my mill is 'complete' today; it moves the table both ways at all speeds.The really "Final" completion means disassembly, shortening the ring gear hub by ~.03" (hard to explain; keeps the swarf from contaminating the gear drive) and re-greasing the gears (washed off for machining).
Fitting a DRO a couple of years ago took up the T-nut use on the front of the table which means the travel limit switch for the power feed can not be fitted there. You have any ideas regarding that?
Those last efforts will be done tomorrow.
Need to see the machine to figure out where to put the limit switch. It really should be installed. I made a riser block to fit mine to the original bolt holes for the manual limit. It's not in this video but I put it in another one. Are you on Instagram?
@@BurtonsAttic Appreciate the offer, but that's the part of 'design' which most interests me. Got the use of the power feed as I skull-job ways of fitting the travel limiter.
Dear Sir, maybe I still not seen all your videos. I have question I see on your jaw lathe used proximity sensor. I want to know the purpose and can send me detail infor of control box including components used for it?Thank you your respond.
Well done, John... Your timing is perfect as I'm about to start mine... How about doing this project on the knee with the PF mounted horizontal [9 o'clock]... As usual, I'm impressed with your Vids. Thx for sharing...
Thanks Dave. Still thinking about that...Maybe leave off the Y-Axis since the travel is so short and just add the knee straight on?
Yup, the X and Knee would be a great combination. Maybe a follow-up video?
Thanks for the video! Sorry about the laryngitis: Get well soon! ;')
Funny man, voice over takes a lot more time and this video is +30 minutes. You guys can never make up your minds some say- You talk to much, others- Love the voice over, yet another- Great music, and of course- no music I like to hear the machines. You see my point right...Thanks for commenting Sam
Hi. What digital caliper are you using. Thanks.
Marcos Luiz Alves Hey Marcos they are made by Shars. Sometimes they outlet price older models on eBay. I like the larger display. Some models are also backlit.
Just bit the bullet on a Rockwell 21-100 myself, had some questions for you. Should have mine middle of next week!
First what size vise did you go with?
Cannot decide if a 4” or 5” will fit better.
Would love to email you if you don’t mind.
Thanks!
Terence I have 4 vises for the mill and all are 3" opening or less. It's hard to find a compact vise that has a large capacity. My favorite is the tool maker vise- seen here- czcams.com/video/1Opq7JdeU6E/video.html at 15:15 . The one I have is screw operated not allen key operated. The problem is how long the vise is or more specifically, how much does it hang off the table? The table is 6" x 24". I still haven't found the prefect vise yet. Well a least one that isn't $1000. eBay is your best bet to find a used one that fits. Good Luck! Also check out this vise that Ca Lem just made- czcams.com/video/hpenv1ZqGx4/video.html which is essentially a large version of a tool makers vise and would be more ideal for our application.
*Correction- My tool maker's vise is 4 1/4" capacity. All the rest are under 3"
This is the reason YT should exist!
I'm adapting a BP-style table drive to some BP-knock-off bought probably 30 years ago. No way that 4-bolt plate even fits on the end of the table.
I was considering modifying that, but your approach replacing it is superior; thanks!
But how did you mount your 'shaft' to the original lead screw, preventing relative rotation? Didn't see any 'keying' feature there. And being right handed, my shaft extension is going to accept the hand wheel at that end; I'd go nuts otherwise.
Thanks, start watching at 18:47
@@BurtonsAttic Still not seeing it 'keyed'. Are you referring to the screw fitted to the end?
Looking like mine will take an extension shaft of a diameter allowing the key slot to be milled from the outside and the brass drive gear bored to that diameter. And then I get to figure out how to key that gear to the OD of the extension shaft; what fun!
Regardless, the scheme for mine is progressing nicely, and I'll use the opportunity to upgrade that skinny, little, ball bearing used to take the lead-screw thrust loads between the table and the knee. Maybe I can run something over a 1/2" D. cutter without table shake. Or maybe that's wasted effort and the lead-screw nuts are the 'throttle'.
Still, your scheme is far better than what I had in mind, so thanks are certainly in order.
In progress, but can't post images.
I see you used a wick pen as a confirmation of the gear clearance, but what *is* the clearance? Those gears are a long ways from what I'd call robust, and I'd like to get the max engagement (which will define the dims on my extension shaft).
Really appreciate your pioneering efforts here.
If you where installing this on a Bridgeport it comes with a package of shims. You just add or remove shims until you get what "feels" like proper gear mesh. There is not way to access the gears since they are in the housing and no way to mock it up to achieve proper clearance. I didn't have shims the correct diameter as I changed the shaft size and really didn't want to use shims anyways. I used the first shaft I made (the steel one) as a reference. I just kept trimming the shoulder of the shaft until I went past engagement. Mean the shaft had play in it. Backed up to the previous measurement and that should be full gear mesh. The sharpie ring (bluing) was just to confirm that with the new brass shaft.
@@BurtonsAttic Mine's not even a good knock-off of a Bridgeport, so your efforts are just getting me going, but believe me, they're really helpful.
Came up with a way to find 'full engagement' of the gear with reference to the plane of the open end of the gear case:
Confirmed both gear chamber surfaces are parallel, lay it down on the surface plate, use an adjustable parallel and some feeler-gauge stock to make the open end of the gear chamber parallel to the top of my surface plate (test indicator clamped in height-gauge arm).
Drop in gear, centered in the hole, shim until the back side is also parallel to the surface plate; back of gear at zero backlash is .025” below the plane of the open end of the gear chamber.
Not worried about heat, so even a .005" clearance should do just fine; .02" below that plane.
Added by edit 6/15: Had some suspicions, found the driven gear yielded to pressure above the drive gear. It was balanced on the shims, not 'stopped' by the drive gear.
Re-stack shims until there is no movement from poking the driven gear with a finger: .033" is mo betta. .028" is a better design dim.
Nice job - that will make lfe much easier....
It has already Matt, getting more done!
Great video. Is that a DIY mandrel or one you bought. If DIY... any videos?
Thanks
I purchased a set Chris. Search expanding mandrel set on eBay.
@@BurtonsAttic thanks !
Hey. Good job. Which camera do you shoot?
Panasonic
@@BurtonsAttic Tell me please which camera Panasonic and lens?
@@BurtonsAttic I want to learn how to shoot a video like yours, can you say exactly what your set is for shooting video?
All that nice work and an extended length shaft but no handle on the right? You will come to hate that.
There is room for a hand wheel but I left it off for now to see if I miss it. It's a small machine so it's easy to reach the other side without moving my feet and use the other hand wheel. So far I haven't used it very much, been using the power feed a lot!
Note at 1:35 Perfect curls coming off both of the 2 flutes of the drill bit... Nice sharpening job. If ya see un-equal curls, you'll have an oversize hole, Don't ask me how I know... :-(
I have some one flute drills as well! Just rough measured the overarm parts and all looks good. Noticed that there is a bronze bushing in it too but of course will need alignment.
Nice to get some more about your machinery. I did find it rather hard to follow. And I hate people who don't talk. I know you can talk. It doesn't have to be narration recorded afterwards surely? You can just explain things whilst filming. Anyway, thanks for the video. It looks a good job.
Bitchen video and mad skills. looks like I will be using my M18 drill for awhile longer.
Nice. Now you can drink coffee and watch it work
Coffee! I did just that yesterday morning. Felt weird to not be cranking. Nice to stand back and watch like the lathe but the runs are shorter...
If you add Z drive, motor drive body will hit the chip tray.
Thanks for the warning. If I'm going to add another that's the spot. Y travel is so short I don't see the point. It looks close just eye balling it. Maybe I can make the adapter stand off a bit more so there is no interference and get full travel. Do you have a Rockwell mill?
@@BurtonsAttic Unless you rotate the Z or Y drive housing but that puts static stress on the attachment bolts. I posted a similar thread in the hobby-machinist, in the rockwell forum
@@BurtonsAttic Yup, vert only. Not enough room, $$ nor power for a BP. Z drive is handy, better than waving the crank handle. I made a retractable pin drive for the Z handle, make sure the pin is disengaged before using the Z drive.
Спасибо за интересное видео👍🏼,от нас лайк ❤️ Заглядывайте в гости.
Hi. Love your channel, but .... what has happened to your great voice-over videos???
I usually never watch annotated videos. They are often hard to follow. This is no exception. At several points I just didn't know what you were doing. PLEASE make a voice-over version on this video. Thanks
Thanks, this video being over 30 minutes long is the reason that I didn't do voice over. Sorry for any confusion, editing takes a lot of effort.
your cut off tool broke because there was no oil. you can get away without lube on brass or aluminum, but not steel.
While I won't say that oil would help, it was carbide cutter after all. That was not what caused this. I have parted steel many times with carbide and no issue...
Get rid of the gloves! Not a good idea when using rotatory
machinery!
Too many ads👎
Donald I totally get where your coming from but if we didn't have ads you wouldn't be enjoying the content that you want to watch whenever you want to watch it. YT wouldn't be YT with out the ads. Thanks for commenting and watching.
@@BurtonsAttic Yes I get it. But, a 20 to 30 minute video has 4 to 6 video ad interruptions that is not paying for content at a profit. Its extortionesque (not a word, I know). CZcams is rapidly reaching the point of the reason why I threw my TV out 30 years ago.
I also know producers have no direct control. However, unless and until there is a boycott of some kind there will one day be more ad content than producer content - just like TV.
to be quite honest unless your an expert in this field its very hard to know just what you are doing.
also some commentry along the way would help a lot.
in sum total the video is a bit of a
OH WOW LOOK HOW CLEVER I AM SHOW OFF WASTE OF TIME
Sorry you missed the point, thanks for watching.
i dont think you really understand how to make an informative well structured video... sadly
Oh thanks your so kind. How many videos have you made? Do you know what genre of video this is? 1TB into 11GB. Have a nice day oh and thanks again for watching.
very good video ..thanks for your time
Thanks