Adam Ondra #84: Kneebar - The Downgrader / Beginning 9a
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- čas přidán 20. 09. 2020
- „Beginning“ is a name of a new route by Stefano Ghisolfi, first ascended this spring, right after the lockdown. As I was in Arco a few weeks ago, I could not resist and had to try this resistance testpiece. Check it out in the next episode how it went.
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Credits:
STORY BY
ADAM ONDRA
DIRECTED BY
LACO KORBEL
CAMERA
ADAM LIGOCKI
PAVEL BLAŽEK
LACO KORBEL
EDITED BY
PAVEL KLEMENT
PRODUCTION
JAKUB PÍNA
SUBTITLES BY
JARKA MARČEKOVÁ
EXECUTIVE PRODUCER
PAVEL BLAŽEK
SONGLIST
Sarah Chapman - Industrial Future
Colorfilm Music - Ocean in the Sky
Atlas Mason - The Moon Above Us
© 2020 AO PRODUCTION S.R.O.
#climbing #rockclimbing #9a #secondascent #arco #italy #kneebar - Sport
I'm just a baby climber, but when I found a solid kneebar on a route at my highest grade this last weekend and got the send because of it, I felt like I was Adam Ondra! 😆💪🏽
loved the commentary about the route while showing the footage of Adam climbing. Would love to see more of this in the future!!
nice one
i agree. that's the best thing ever. either silence with no stupid music, just the nature sounds and the sounds of the climber and people below or even better the climb with the commentary so we know what's going on the climber's mind.
@@GillyTRippah26 ppppppppp0pppp
@@GillyTRippah26 pp
@@GillyTRippah26 ppppppp0pp0ppppppp
If they didn’t show the “5 meters of scramble” he talked about at the beginning I would’ve guessed it’s 7a climbing knowing Adam
I feel like adam ondra sees everything as a knee bar. Next time we are going to find out how he used a kneebar on some 9a slab route 😂
czcams.com/video/8-5yuVuDFzU/video.html
Yeah, about that...
I look forward to that! 😂😂😂😂
I like the format 👏
Completely agree. Almost uncut send footage with voiceover is absolutely perfect. It helps you to grasp how hard the moves are and his psychological experience. Also loved the minimal story at the beginning. Unless it’s an amazing anecdote, it should be kept short like this.
Knee bars can be really crucial! 39 years ago, in May/June 1981 I climbed the first Norwegian grade 8 (probably 7b or 7c) in Trøndelag, i.e. the county where Flatanger is located. By the seaside in Trondheim there's a cliff which has been used for climbing for more than 50 years, and it had an aid climb (Frühling) through the steepest part. The key to being able to free it was an upside down kneebar very similar to the one Adam used here, it was the only way I could free up an arm to place a Friend #2 in a short crack/pocket.
PS. This was of course not the hardest climb in the country, just the hardest near Trondheim!
7c in 1981 while placing natural protection... respect.
@@constantinosschinas4503 The grade was never verified because nobody tried it for many years, then a block fell out and revealed a new hold which removed the first crux (a long dyno), then it did get a downgrade by the guy who repeated the new & easier version. Finally the rest fell down and the route was gone. I did climb a few harder new routes on the same sea cliff over the next 3 years, but they were all bolted, at least around the crux.
And yet Silence is 9C with all those kneebars. I think Silence must be pretty hard.
Check out Pete Whittaker trying silance.
@@mechanicgray pete only tried the moves inside the crack within the crux of silence. you could hardly call that trying silence.
@@magussma lol well he tried part of it.
@@mechanicgray People made more of a fuss about Pete trying it than it actually warranted. He found a potential new beta for the crack section using shoes which would limit a climber in the non-crack sections of Silence (aka the majority of the route). Also he didn't actually start that beta using a transition from the beginning of the route into the crack either so there's no telling if it's even applicable for someone attempting the whole route. While interesting, I don't think it really takes anything away from Silence's difficulty.
@@jimothy-johnson it definitely doesn't take away from it. I agree.
I really love that there arent many camera switching on the video, and the narration makes it even better. I really enjoyed the climb and the video! It was an insane climb!
Big up adam ondra for being such a legend
Thanks to your videos, I have started to climb. Thank you for the inspiration and motivation!
That kneebar was spectacular! Really enjoy your videos, I hope I one day stumble upon you around Lake Garda.
Keep it up Adam :) shoutout to everyone helping you with those videos too, thank you!
Could you please text everything? As a hearing-impared and not native english-talker, it's not always easy to understand what Adam says. So often I switch to auto-generated english which isn't very accurate at times. Else: great video as always!
You have english subs available
@@13pablofdez Only when they are speaking a foreign language at the end :)
@@haakonsvanberg8178 Just click on Czech subs and then go to automatic translation and set it to to your language
@@emac4d I know that way, it's just not very accurate :) So If they have time to text it in Czech and halfway in English, it would be nice if they texted it all in English as well :)
@@emac4d good method if you want to read gibberish
Arco is such a beautiful place!! Definitely high up on the list of climbing area's to visit :)
And, as a tall climber, we love a good kneebar-based send
Ive been watching Adam climb since he first arrived in our media many years ago. He still consistently blows my mind. Thanks for that mate 👌🏼
I like on your videos the simplicity. You share the world of climbing to each other. You're not trying to impress others. You just do what you know the best and thats why i always click on your video. I love the calm and peaceful atmosphere of every video.
Such a legend! It’s a pleasure to exist in the same reality as him
You explain things brilliantly, Adam! So good to listen to.
Thanks for share with us this amazing moment and beautiful places!!
I think he has skipped more quickdraws than he has clipped
Literally gives me so much anxiety watch him skip every one at the top
@@MsPlaybook Watching him hang on the knee bars was horrible too, the thought of him swinging into the rock with no helmet
Hi Adam, it’s beautiful to see you climb!
Could you walk us through your mental choices of clipping vs. Skipping? How precisely do you calculate that it’s a fall you can afford without touching the ground? or that you are secure enough not to fall there ? or even that the send is more important than security?
I’m really curious about what goes on in your mind regarding this, as when I am the one climbing, clipping and above-and-beyond security takes most of my mental power!
I think the more you clip the more comfortable you are with it. Then there's less mental energy being wasted and you can focus more on feeling secure.
if you feel tired but you know there is a good hold some moves above, you skip clip.
Super sick climb man, beautiful video too as always
Nobody:
Adam: so there is this knee bar right there
Such a great analysis, really insightful for even beginners like me!
Perfect climbing video!!
I just watched Reel Rock 7 last night, I think that's the first big film that had a young Adam Ondra in it (trying to send La Dura Dura). So impressive to follow along his accomplishments.
Loved the commentary!
Such an impressive climb, wow!!
Adam "The Kneebar" Ondra.
hey! that's my joke! give it back. :)
Adam "skip quickdraw" Ondra
Adam "AAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!" Ondra
You're freaking amazing dude
Great job Adam!
You do a really good job of telling the story of the climb :)
Adam is definitely the king of kneebars
Turn on subtitles at the end if you don't speak Italian!
Adam does the first 8c+ (!!!!) crux as I did the easiest move of my warming up route. Goddamn
Great video as usual!
LOVE YOUR HAIRCUT!
Bellissimo video.
Jo jasně. Po 'velkých chytech' (milimetrové lišty a slizké obliny)😂
Totally agree with you bro 🤣🤣🤣🤣. So funny
Bella Adam.
what a kneebar. Nice footage
Holy run out at the end there... How do you know which bolts to skip on the send go when you’re working it? Have you ever had any crazy falls?
Quick way to approximate safety of a fall is distance above last protection plus ~3ft of slack, 30% stretch of rope in the system, and 1ft belayer lift per 8ft of fall (assuming equal weight partners).
Imagine bolts are 8ft apart, thus we skip one, maybe the sixth, meaning our last point of protection is 40ft off the deck, and we blow the clip at 7th or 56ft off the deck. We have
Dont try this skipping metode if ur belayer not good,,
That's just speechless.
New Ondra vid im hypeeeeee
Inspiring!
King Adam, King of kneebars!!!
You make it look so easy, amazing simply amazing. So how many tries did it take you in the end to work it all out?
Awesome.
Great entertainment for climbers!
Sempre bene!
Cool Video
Adam do you work the 9b?
thank you!!!
I will do a 9a too someday
Same bro
What's your current max grade how old are you and how long are you climbing?
Lol
@@tobi_j1510 I'm 17 and I'm a beginner, I've been climbing for about two months. At the moment the max grade I can do it's 6a+, I hope I will make progress
@@mirrorhouse586 keep going
Do a video with Magnus!!!
If Adam asks me to like the video I like the video, no more questions
Pretty dang cool with that kneebar beta. Skipping that many clips looks sketchy, even the belayer mentions it. Who would yell at Adam to CLIP! CLIP! Do you call out your climber for skipping clips?
yo sick climb!
Music was really good this vid
Godlike climbing ) But skipping quickdraws for most of us - very bad and big trouble. Greetings for Adam!
Лучший!
Сделай пожалуйста русские субтитры. Тебя смотрит весь мир)
Casually only clipping every third draw. That would scare the shit out of me as a climber or a belayer.
He also uses an 8.9mm rope according to another video of his which makes it even more crazy.
Be mindful, plenty of bolts on harder routes, in particular overhanging, are working bolts or were for bolting on lead, thus not positioned for safety exactly. Having working bolts is nice to clip while sequencing a crux, but if the stance is strenuous or the drag is substantive then skipping is good beta as long as the fall remains safe.
As to rope diameter, an 8.9 is skinny but the amount of run through a device isn’t drastic, and any concern for safety is from a lack of understanding of UIAA ratings. Most folks retire a sport rope from sheath wear or core shot at the ends causing you to chop a rope too short to be usable, which an 8.9 has a shorter lifespan but basic inspection is essential for all ropes and will keep you atop any issues.
i think it is artifical climbing , when using kneebar compression on every leg?
I truly hope Stefano ghisolfi comment this video
He commented on Adam's Instagram :)
@@IsuckYoungBlood yes i've seen that.. i'd love one more in-depth kind of a comment.. and i sure want to know if that kneebar really downgrade the route in his eyes
@@fimix92 I think it's quite obvious that if you are able to get both hands off it will be easier. But then not everyone will be able to fit a kneebar there for different reasons.
@@IsuckYoungBlood fair enough.. plus in my humble opinion Adam is the best climber ever, it might be that only he is able to use that effectively
When I climbed the route I thought it was something between 9a and 9a+, so I proposed 9a/+. With this new kneebar you have a good rest before the last crux and probably changes a lot. The problem is Adam makes it looks easy to kneebar and release both hands, but I don’t know how hard for legs it actually can be, and maybe not every leg length will fit there. Let's see how the next climbers trying the route will climb it!
Skipping all that protection makes my hands sweaty
Loved the comments!
Ok ... What we can learn of this video is : " Do not clip any quickdraw, never !"
Sometimes it's really better to skip one than trying to clip in a weird position from a bad hold...
I was joking :)
limestone... it's wonderful rock, but it gets slippery fast. I'd say these routes will get a lot harder very shortly, possibly even under 10 years from now if they see enough traffic. although I guess depolishing techniques may come to the rescue
FYI... When I select English (UK) nothing shows up. The English (auto) does work. Can’t comment on Czech subtitles.
Who else want to shakehand this guy!
Adam Ondra: Look, There's a Kneebar!!
Other climbers: Where??
Adam Ondra: There!! Another!!
Other climbers: WTFDaFa!!!
adams got a big adams apple
hey! where is the pterodactyl screams??
So the kneebar downgrade it from 9a/+ to 9a?
Yes.
He could find a kneebar in Burden of Dreams.
😂😂
skvelej napad ta komentovana cesta
isn't it dangerous to knee bar upside down? you slip and you hit the head.
also do you need knee pads to do knee bars?
he's using knee pads, so it is AID climbing
@@satanaz yeah totally, adam shouldn´t even wear climbing shoes - what an imposter!!
If the belayer gives him a soft catch he shouldn't hit the wall with full force.
And to answer your second question. If your pain tolerance is high enough you probably technically don't need knee pads, but they are at least recommended.
@@satanaz Yeah and he uses climbing shoes boooh and chalk. How's your barefoot unaided climbing going?
@trezapoioiuy whoosh
Ostias el de la resistencia
Could anyone find the recent comp live stream
czcams.com/video/aurno28Q4cA/video.html
The IFSC world cup final in Briançon ?
lol to adam ondra a 5 meter scramble probably has a bunch of v5 moves in it
Sick.
Ma Adam, chiedo è un alpinista, o solo un performer? Senza polemica, parola mia!
does anyone know what rope he is using?
Tendon probably.
3rd time watching
And ZERO mention of the Send Downgrader knee pads he is wearing? I understand sponsorship obligations but C’MONNNN!!!!
Come to Greece 🇬🇷
comment for the algorithm
Moral of the story: always look for the kneebar!
Getting anxious from seeing Adam skip multiple clips :P
Why not a drone view?
...we were using 2 camera operators on the ropes and 1 from the side. Fourth camera was on the tripod on the ground. And drone was little bit complicated to fly becasue trees. Anyway we prefer to have a good sound. But don´t worry I can tell you that in next epizode we used the drone to make a beautiful shots of AO climbing for you...
Laco Korbel thank you for technical response
Anyway keep up the good work
See you next Monday
So scary if you fall during a knee bar like this with your head down
he is my model
St. Anger? Isnt that st. mettalica's worst album?! lol
i dont see how that was a 9a ??
the neck
Support
gg
Adam Ondra probably knee bars the stairs
This guy makes a kneebar on 1 atom sticking out
😲
No one: Become the best climber then create a channel to inspire ppl to climb
Andra: hold my beer