Sundown SFB5000 Full Repair Guide (& other full-bridge clones)
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- čas přidán 14. 07. 2024
- 6-pin Output drive buffers: ZXGD3005E6 (or many compatible alternatives), some recent boards use UCC27511 so check pin location for GND and VCC
Output drive IC: IRS20957S
Output mosfets for rails under 190v: IRFB4227
Output mosfets for rails under 140v: IRFB4115
Power supply mosfets: IRF1405, IRF1404, IRFB3077, IRFB7530, or any similar
Power supply driver: IR4427 (or many compatible alternatives)
5-pin Boost Converter: LMR62014XMFE (or compatible alternative)
Preamp opamps: TL074C (or alternative)
"C4" comparator: LM319
Didoes parallel with output gate resistors: 1N4148
0:00 Tools required
3:17 How the circuit works
10:10 Power supply repair
18:59 Output section repair
54:53 Powering up safely after repair
1:04:05 Full rail testing - Zábava
This is GOLD! Not sure how I'd missed the channel's contents although I'd subscribed before.
Being a novice with basically no experience, nothing but my loves into electronics. These along others from this channels is now my primary source n references on amp's tshooting n repairs.
Stay away from plumbers acid paste/flux and acid flux core solder used for plumbing. The acid flux in plumbing solder differs from electrical solder, which contains rosin flux. The strong acid in plumbing solder is very corrosive in order to strip the layer of oxidation off the surface of pipes as the solder melts, allowing it to adhere and form a waterproof joint. However, that corrosive acid flux will rapidly degrade wiring if plumbing solder is mistakenly used for electronics. As Sam stated in the video, use Rosin type flux and/or rosin core leaded solder. Good video. Thank You...
i bought a power regulator from banggood and a meanwell psu. a wooden case i made myself and its a 0.5-75v .01-5.6A power supply. i got the diy oscope at the same time, some assembly required. also the D series hot air station and various accessories like twesers and such. i think i spent less than 75.00 for all of this 10 years ago when i started learning amp repair. for an entry level kit - it was great and more than enough to dip into the water. later on i thrift shopped better scopes, local uni and hospitals sales had some killer electronic deals over the years. i saved over 7 grand on my 4 channel scope and over a grand on my 100a psu. hte only thing i was never able to find a deal on was the resistor banks. also an infiray thermal camera. those things are great and cheap
Yeah boi Sam with another video! We missing you sam we love seeing your vids even if your focusing 90% of the time and there’s little to no editing we still like to watch!!!
You know your stuff very well, apart from one thing, when using the scope you are saying it is xxV per divide, the Div is short for a division or each square of the graticule, so I thought I would let you know so you can correct your understanding there a bit.
Works for me, thanks!
Amazing video! Jam packed with technical info, tips, and technical info on how these amps work.
I've been hoping you would do a video on this amp for a long time. I've had one that I can't figure out at all. Mine had the same broken trace on the bottom also. After watching this video I was able to find out that I did have 2 bad zeners that seemed to test fine bc I still had the resistors in place. Thanks for the help. Amp is working again.
This is the info I've been waiting for! Thanks
Great video sir, as usual
Thank you for the great content! My SFB-2000 just blew up last week for absoultley no reason at a stop light. The music wasn't even loud. What a coincidence you drop this video. My amp is out of warranty. How much does it cost for this type of repair? I am in the United States. Not sure where to start looking for a reputable repair shop. Pondering the thought of just trashing it. I already replaced the amp.
If you're in the US then you definitely want to use a us-based repair shop. Look for various amplifier repair videos on CZcams and you'll find a lot that are based in the US. Then just contact them about getting your amp prepared. Repair cost can vary based on what components need to be replaced.
I do amp repairs if you still need any help. Located in TN
@@hopskustomaudio Thanks for the reply. Yes, the amp is just sitting in my garage still blown. How can I contact you for cost and info?
thank you very much for everything, excellent video
FINALLY!! I have a cllone of this amp.
Gotta love clones! (Sarcastically speaking)
Grate job bro
You are not lying every last mosfets from eBay Aliexpress and Amazon are counterfeit. Some do work but it's a big gamble.
Come on big brother,why have you quit Tiktok? Love your vids!!🎉
Tiktock. PLZ. It's for monkeys
Super dope.
Yes a new vid! 🤙
Nice
Cerwin Vega CVPRO series are also clones like this. sundown's bass knob SFB-R is compatible with them too
Gold❤
👍❤
👍👍👍...💯💯💯
Great work as always. I have a 500.4d. Output transistors are marked H8. Would you happen to know which transistors i can replace them with?
Great video , great info , thankss!!! , have an identical amp board , its running it sounds but hear a buzzing when turn on and sounds all time that buzzing. Any idea ??! Thanks
Would you happen to know what full bridge model rj style bass knob would work with the ds18 gfx 5ks. I found a post a long time ago someone had used a db drive style knob and the clip lights worked and synced with the amplifiler and controled output. (Ds18s bass knob is trash)
Bro una consulta el irfb31n20 cual es su resistencia de gate y de polarizacion gracias
can you make a video on repairing SIA series amps? does this video apply at all to SIA series amps?
Love the vids!!
How come you didnt put this amp into diagnostic mode?
I did lol. Thanks!
@@barevids you did? Because i thought you had to pull both resistors that fed the power supply buffer the signal from the MCU, then connect vdd to the rail input of the MCU to fool it into thinking the 12v rail was full rail?
@@steve390gold I did the easier new method of lifting the diodes between MCU and output drivers.
Meh missed it. Catch it up tomoz
It wasn't a stream lol
For once a general overview of what’s going on, thank you for that… I do have one question? If I heard you correctly, you said the two boost converters are there to take 5V and increase the voltage for the IC drivers. Why boost 5V to higher voltages when you’re supplying 12 already? Could those be more buck converters taking the 12V and switching them down to 5v to run the IC drivers?
Sorry perhaps I didn't explain correctly haha, the boost converter IC uses a stable 5v for its own VCC supply, however it is in fact boosting 12v which sits on the inductor/diodes up to 15v :)
Got it! The boost circuit provides the necessary voltage level to drive the MOSFETs effectively, in this case 15v and uses it to drive the low-side MOSFETs. And the buffer/driver IC is taking that 15v and switching the MOSFET on and off properly. That makes more sense. Truly appreciate the general overview of what's going on under the hood with these car amps. @@barevids
Hi, I have an amplifier that is the same but rebranded, I would like to know the name of all the mosfets that are on the heatsink, unfortunately in Italy it is difficult to repair these instruments. Thank you
Hey I'm kinda new to your channel and I'm wondering if you can tell me if you have a video or if you can tell me what to look for when buying an amplifier to know if it is going to be able to handle 16v without going into protect are there certain things I need to be looking for with a good amp versus a cheap one I'm looking for something that is going to take a daily beating and be able to hold up under a competition and not fail after being used every single day in my daily driver don't really know much about amps I've never had anything but kicker but the CXA 1800.1 has worked and never had a single issue with anything no protect light barely gets warm even after several hours of use I'm looking for the same quality I've seen with my kicker amps but on the 8-12k RMS range and be able to handle 16v without any issues
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What power supply do You reccomend for workshop?
what's the size of the silicone hose
Hi, could someone please help me find the right replacement capacitor? This is what is printed on the old one ( ZHN (M)105°C 25V 1000 uf CD288H L.E.S.R )
Is it 12v VCC to the MCU? or is it 5v?
5v iirc! But you don't need to inject this manually, the board has various boost and buck converters to sort out all of the supply voltages generated from the 12 volt input. You just need to prevent the power supply effects from oscillating, by removing the VCC supply resistors for the MOSFET drivers or something similar.
I’m surprised you didn’t get a modern oscilloscope yet or at least a real solder sucker lol. Nice job though
There are things/signals an analog oscilloscope will catch that a digital one will not, just as there are things/signals that an analog multimeter will catch that a digital one will not. Newer and digital is not always better it depends on how you plan to use it...
I really do want a better scope! 😂 I was watching a 1ghz Lecroy on eBay but it was collection only miles away and sold 😢😢
@@barevids I’m just a hobbiest but I bought the Siglent SDS1202X-E and I’m pretty happy with it. Luckily I bought it before the Covid price hike!
@barevids Lecroy? Really. I've not heard good things about them.
@@danieldoriott7484 I haven't heard ANYTHING about them lol. It just looked like a great scope with good features
hey guys, I need your help xD I have a jbl stage a9004 amp, everything works fine 30% of the time, but those 70% are so awkward to me, it seems like it outputs more power on channel2 which is controlled by the same gain knob with channel1, can someone help me diagnose this problem, i bought this amp 1.5 years ago. I have a dsp expert electronics px2 which sends the signsl the jbl
How do i inbox you been trying to figure this out
The video here should cover everything buddy. But feel free to drop me a line on barevids facebook page.
Err .. Sam boy is probably "Ben Eater" of electronics huh.
P