Had this issue. A plumber came over and jet washed the inside of all my pipes and that fixed it. They were just all full of build-up, causing it to not drain properly. I told him about this 4" expansion fix and he said it's against code. That and it wouldn't fix the dirty pipes that were actually causing my issue. I also bought a bottle of Bio-One to put down the pipes once per month, which is a bacteria that grows and eats all the slime, grease, and goo that causes some of these problems. I like the 4" expansion solution Andy offers, but if you have gummed up pipes, this is not a long-term fix, as it will mostly just mask the issue.
THANK YOU. I did not have a problem in the past (or I didn't notice it until 3 months ago) and this is a great idea. THANK YOU. I am a low income private school teacher and a DIYer.
I simply used a 3/4" PVC coupling (actual ID is ~1") as a flow restrictor. Fixed for 85¢. Ideally it should be placed internally between the pump and rear panel connector *before* exiting the machine. The internal hosing and clamps are much sturdier than hose used externally to drain and the intermediate connector wold prevent it from exiting past. Pumps on modern machines are just too powerful for many 1.5" drain setups. Sealing the drain hose to waste line with a grommet is another option but an anti-siphoning device *must* be used in that case.
THANK YOU, this is the idea God gave me today, and you confirmed it. 'Restrict the draining machine pipe/hose' so that it does not cause the slight backup.
Saved me $100's with this simple fix, the Home Depot had everything on the list and 3 days later no more "over flow" from the washer stand-pipe. Thank you very much @Andy N!
Worked! Although I only upsized the standpipe to 4" with an adapter. I left the top of the 4" pipe open and just put the washer hose in it (no rubber reducer/clamps on top).
I had the same problem. My solution was to simply jam a 3/4 inch PCV threaded stop into the washing machine drain line. The threads are a nearly perfect fit for the 1" flex line he used in the video. I then put a 1" drywall screw through both flex pipe and plug for double security. Finally I drilled a 3/8 hole in the plug to reduce the water flow. I know that it is a little harder on the washer pump but its better than breaking concrete slab to replace a 10ft run of undersized drain pipe.
Same problem I have. New speedqueen set, older home. I just bought the home, so I'm still trying to diagnose the problem. All of the fixtures drain fine. I believe it's just too much water at once. So, I think I'm going to use the same principle here, except drain it to a new utility sink. The sink will act as the overflow reservoir.
Dang brotha! That's a crazy fix, but it looks like what I'll need to do. I have a brand new front load Electrolux. I can run one full house full blast down the takeaway and it's fine. I hook it up to the washer, run a small load... water everywhere!
Looks like you are pretty good with plumbing, congrats! I have an issue with my drain hole for washer discharge pipe - it is overflowing sometimes causing my basement flooding, it's not because of water from washer like in your case, it's because the waste water from outside comes right into my house when it desires, how do I fix it? Back water valve, any ideas?
A properly vented and unclogged 2" drain will handle anything coming out of that 1-1/2" washing machine hose and a 30" minimum standpipe. The simplest thing to do would be to try and clear the drain line with a snake or if you have the money put a camera down to see what you are dealing with. The fact that the drain and p-trap aren't in the wall is a red flag that someone cut corners during a remodel and the rest of the house is draining fine so it could be a venting issue. Do you have a vent directly over that room coming out of the roof? Fun fact I asked chat gpt how much pressure would have to be coming out of a 1-1/2" drain pipe to cause an overflow with a 2" pipe that's properly vented and it said 418.5 psi which is far beyond the amount of pressure a washing machine drain hose can handle. Pex A can only handle 160 PSI. Full city water pressure is going to be 80 psi tops. So you are talking about an insane amount of force, greater than a firehose, your washing machine would to put out that could risk killing someone and had to have been built by some mad scientist in order for your new washing machine to cause an overflow without an underlying issue in your drain line.
Great idea! I ordered the parts to start this project. Did you cut the 1-1/2 inch pipe at the bottom by the P-Trap pipe with a regular saw? How many inches of the 1-1/2 pipe did you leave to connect to the rubber coupling? Thanks
Dude! That's crazy! All you had to do was to get a rubber coupling and another hunk of 1 1/2 abs and make as high as the washing machine. Damn, I'd hate to see what you did with your rain gutters and downspouts.
Code says the standpipe has to be a minimum of 30" which it looks like it is. What's your logic of the standpipe having to be above the washing machine? The washing machine drains from the bottom with a pump not gravity/siphoning so I'm not sure how the standpipe being above the washer could possibly matter.
@@rickybobby7276 You don't read too well do you? I didn't say 'above' the unit. I said. even with it. The reason is because newer type machines have a more powerful pump and pump out more gpm than older units. Because of the faster pumps, the water draining in the pipe tends to rise almost to the top until pressure equalizes thru the u-trap in the wall/ground.
@@loumitch1 Above, even with, below it doesn't matter as long as the standpipe is 30" according to code. Do you know what building codes are? I can tell you aren't a plumber. Do you have any clue how much pressure would have to be coming out of the 1-1/2" washing machine hose into a 30" tall standpipe 2" wide that's properly vented to create an overflow? It's so much pressure it would burst the thin washing machine hose like it was paper. No residential washing machine on the planet is pumping out that much water. This is a drainage or venting issue. All going higher than 30" or wider than 2" is going to do is build a reservoir. I am not even going to ask what you mean about equalizing pressure, because again you aren't talking about gravity fed drainage we are talking about a pump feeding water up from the very bottom of the washing machine. There's nothing to equalize, because the water is artificially fed by the pump which I'm sorry but regardless of how new it is will not overflow plumbing that's done to modern building codes. But hey I'm sure you know better than the people writing the building codes.
If you ever get a clog down line, it's gonna turn into a geyser with the top of the stack restricted that much. 😂 The 1 1/2" pipe should take it down no problem (Unless there's an issue with your plumbing). You probably have buildup in your sewer drain or a venting issue.
For those who are watching this in the future, I have watched all the youtube videos and the only real fix is to have a plumber go to your roof and clean out all the vent pipes. That's it, immediate zero overflow.
95% of the audience should just buy/rent a plumbing snake/auger 25-50 feet, clean the pipe for major blockages, and finally pressure wash the pipe using a drain bladder.
I think this could be our problem. We love in a 200 yr old farmhouse and have a top load Speed Queen. I do wonder if it could be an issuer of too much water for the old drain pipe size or a clog. One thing that also happens as it’s overflowing, is that water comes up into our kitchen sink as well. It was only happening on some loads, now it’s on all loads at both the beginning of wash and rinse draining. Does this sound more like a clog or the need for a bigger drain pipe? Thanks!
Yes a clog but also the speed queen. Our old pipes are clear and if we wash on anything but delicate it still overflows. Delicate does not. This overflow tank seems interesting to me!
Please don't do this. Common sense says there's a bigger problem if a 2" drain can't handle the water from a 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" washing machine hose. All he did was build a reservoir to mask the underlying issue.
3ft of 4" plastic plumbing pipe 2 of the flexible rubber 4" to 1-1/2" coupler with clamps, one for the top, the other for the bottom. Make sure you measure your existing pipe and confirm that it's 1-1/2" Good luck!
@@andyn8998 Thanks. Ours is going behind a wall so I believe the 4" pipe may be too wide for both the existing outlet box with spacing of the hot and cold water pipes; and the existing wall space, so we may go with a 3" instead.
@@andyn8998 a lot when it’s a regular load. Also its in a building so we’ve had it snaked several times in past year and nothing has resolved it fully. We believe it’s a venting issue
@@pamr7359 If that's the case then this alone may not resolve the issue. You see, the larger pipe can only hold a certain volume of water and if what you have overflowed on the floor is more that what it can hold then you'll have spill over. You may want to also snake the vent if you believe that it's obstructed and BTW, don't shove the drain tube too far down the pipe and leave some opening at the top for venting. Good luck!
If the problem is a line restriction, as the restriction increases you are going to have back pressure build up on your washing machine discharge and unduly stress the pump.
This Machines turn 1000 rpm per minute & you can not put the drain hose in the drain pipe more than 5 to 6 inches! I had the same problem called a plumber & said I will unclog the drain for $739.00 I thought about it said said no thank! The machines come with a long drain house & the installed it either 15 inches the hose in the drain pipe! I took it up to only 5 inches secure it so it will not come back out ! Problem fixed 😂😂😂😂😂😂
It's a very simple fix. buy the pieces of pipe, glue them together. Cut off the old pipe and glue the new to the old. Install a bracket to help support all the water weight. The alternative is to have your drain dug up and replaced with larger piping all the way down.
It's not proper, but the pipe will hold extra water volume so the drain can have time to discharge the water. Again - not proper, but it technically does work.
Man, I've been freaking out over my mom's standpipe overflowing. This is awesome!
Had this issue. A plumber came over and jet washed the inside of all my pipes and that fixed it. They were just all full of build-up, causing it to not drain properly. I told him about this 4" expansion fix and he said it's against code. That and it wouldn't fix the dirty pipes that were actually causing my issue. I also bought a bottle of Bio-One to put down the pipes once per month, which is a bacteria that grows and eats all the slime, grease, and goo that causes some of these problems. I like the 4" expansion solution Andy offers, but if you have gummed up pipes, this is not a long-term fix, as it will mostly just mask the issue.
I agree. I had same issue and after snaking the pipe now it drains just fine.
THANK YOU. I did not have a problem in the past (or I didn't notice it until 3 months ago) and this is a great idea. THANK YOU. I am a low income private school teacher and a DIYer.
I simply used a 3/4" PVC coupling (actual ID is ~1") as a flow restrictor. Fixed for 85¢. Ideally it should be placed internally between the pump and rear panel connector *before* exiting the machine. The internal hosing and clamps are much sturdier than hose used externally to drain and the intermediate connector wold prevent it from exiting past. Pumps on modern machines are just too powerful for many 1.5" drain setups.
Sealing the drain hose to waste line with a grommet is another option but an anti-siphoning device *must* be used in that case.
THANK YOU, this is the idea God gave me today, and you confirmed it. 'Restrict the draining machine pipe/hose' so that it does not cause the slight backup.
Saved me $100's with this simple fix, the Home Depot had everything on the list and 3 days later no more "over flow" from the washer stand-pipe.
Thank you very much @Andy N!
Glad it worked out for you
Worked! Although I only upsized the standpipe to 4" with an adapter. I left the top of the 4" pipe open and just put the washer hose in it (no rubber reducer/clamps on top).
Glad to hear that it worked for you.
I had the same problem. My solution was to simply jam a 3/4 inch PCV threaded stop into the washing machine drain line. The threads are a nearly perfect fit for the 1" flex line he used in the video. I then put a 1" drywall screw through both flex pipe and plug for double security. Finally I drilled a 3/8 hole in the plug to reduce the water flow. I know that it is a little harder on the washer pump but its better than breaking concrete slab to replace a 10ft run of undersized drain pipe.
Saved me a lot of money and heartache too. Thanks Andy!
Great to hear!
Same problem I have. New speedqueen set, older home. I just bought the home, so I'm still trying to diagnose the problem. All of the fixtures drain fine. I believe it's just too much water at once. So, I think I'm going to use the same principle here, except drain it to a new utility sink. The sink will act as the overflow reservoir.
Dang brotha! That's a crazy fix, but it looks like what I'll need to do.
I have a brand new front load Electrolux. I can run one full house full blast down the takeaway and it's fine. I hook it up to the washer, run a small load... water everywhere!
Great idea and thought! Thank you!
Thank you 🙏🏾. This video helped me a lot. I was thinking of something similar but didn’t have the specifics.
You bet!
You should secure that thing to the wall. That's a lot of stress you are putting on that bottom pipe when that thing fills up.
Pretty cool idea. I don't know if the codes allow it but a very unique solution!
R you sure it is not drain hight issue?
Hi Andy. Could you please list what you used to build the storage system for the drainage? Im running into the same problem.
Looks like you are pretty good with plumbing, congrats!
I have an issue with my drain hole for washer discharge pipe - it is overflowing sometimes causing my basement flooding, it's not because of water from washer like in your case, it's because the waste water from outside comes right into my house when it desires, how do I fix it? Back water valve, any ideas?
A properly vented and unclogged 2" drain will handle anything coming out of that 1-1/2" washing machine hose and a 30" minimum standpipe. The simplest thing to do would be to try and clear the drain line with a snake or if you have the money put a camera down to see what you are dealing with. The fact that the drain and p-trap aren't in the wall is a red flag that someone cut corners during a remodel and the rest of the house is draining fine so it could be a venting issue. Do you have a vent directly over that room coming out of the roof?
Fun fact I asked chat gpt how much pressure would have to be coming out of a 1-1/2" drain pipe to cause an overflow with a 2" pipe that's properly vented and it said 418.5 psi which is far beyond the amount of pressure a washing machine drain hose can handle. Pex A can only handle 160 PSI. Full city water pressure is going to be 80 psi tops. So you are talking about an insane amount of force, greater than a firehose, your washing machine would to put out that could risk killing someone and had to have been built by some mad scientist in order for your new washing machine to cause an overflow without an underlying issue in your drain line.
Thanks!
gonna try this. simple way to get a reservoir
Great idea! I ordered the parts to start this project. Did you cut the 1-1/2 inch pipe at the bottom by the P-Trap pipe with a regular saw? How many inches of the 1-1/2 pipe did you leave to connect to the rubber coupling? Thanks
I used a hack saw. 3 to 4" should be good.
Dude! That's crazy! All you had to do was to get a rubber coupling and another hunk of 1 1/2 abs and make as high as the washing machine. Damn, I'd hate to see what you did with your rain gutters and downspouts.
Bullshit mine is above the washer and it still overflows. If you don’t have a clue then don’t make a comment. Ok?
Code says the standpipe has to be a minimum of 30" which it looks like it is. What's your logic of the standpipe having to be above the washing machine? The washing machine drains from the bottom with a pump not gravity/siphoning so I'm not sure how the standpipe being above the washer could possibly matter.
@@rickybobby7276 You don't read too well do you? I didn't say 'above' the unit. I said. even with it. The reason is because newer type machines have a more powerful pump and pump out more gpm than older units. Because of the faster pumps, the water draining in the pipe tends to rise almost to the top until pressure equalizes thru the u-trap in the wall/ground.
@@loumitch1 Above, even with, below it doesn't matter as long as the standpipe is 30" according to code. Do you know what building codes are? I can tell you aren't a plumber. Do you have any clue how much pressure would have to be coming out of the 1-1/2" washing machine hose into a 30" tall standpipe 2" wide that's properly vented to create an overflow? It's so much pressure it would burst the thin washing machine hose like it was paper. No residential washing machine on the planet is pumping out that much water. This is a drainage or venting issue. All going higher than 30" or wider than 2" is going to do is build a reservoir. I am not even going to ask what you mean about equalizing pressure, because again you aren't talking about gravity fed drainage we are talking about a pump feeding water up from the very bottom of the washing machine. There's nothing to equalize, because the water is artificially fed by the pump which I'm sorry but regardless of how new it is will not overflow plumbing that's done to modern building codes. But hey I'm sure you know better than the people writing the building codes.
If you ever get a clog down line, it's gonna turn into a geyser with the top of the stack restricted that much. 😂 The 1 1/2" pipe should take it down no problem (Unless there's an issue with your plumbing). You probably have buildup in your sewer drain or a venting issue.
Can you please give specific materials you used?
For those who are watching this in the future, I have watched all the youtube videos and the only real fix is to have a plumber go to your roof and clean out all the vent pipes. That's it, immediate zero overflow.
Why ?
Just had a plumber do that and the issue is still there
@@Gondalgrills247 so what else did the plumber say might be the cause?
How many vids is @hutukaTB putting this ridiculous comment on?
@@Ffiltar46 The ones that I searched for this issue and they didn't help.
Thank You! That helped
My washer machine & water softener stand pipe does not have a P trap…
95% of the audience should just buy/rent a plumbing snake/auger 25-50 feet, clean the pipe for major blockages, and finally pressure wash the pipe using a drain bladder.
I think this could be our problem. We love in a 200 yr old farmhouse and have a top load Speed Queen. I do wonder if it could be an issuer of too much water for the old drain pipe size or a clog. One thing that also happens as it’s overflowing, is that water comes up into our kitchen sink as well.
It was only happening on some loads, now it’s on all loads at both the beginning of wash and rinse draining.
Does this sound more like a clog or the need for a bigger drain pipe?
Thanks!
Sounds like a clogged or restricted drain pipe. Doesn't hurt to snake it first to see if you can clear it before spending money on the hardware
Yes a clog but also the speed queen. Our old pipes are clear and if we wash on anything but delicate it still overflows. Delicate does not. This overflow tank seems interesting to me!
That is definitely a clog.
My drain pipe is in the little box next to washer valve. Not sure if I can use this method
Please don't do this. Common sense says there's a bigger problem if a 2" drain can't handle the water from a 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" washing machine hose. All he did was build a reservoir to mask the underlying issue.
Can you tell me the specific parts you purchased? I have been having the same issues and we feel your solution may work for us.
3ft of 4" plastic plumbing pipe
2 of the flexible rubber 4" to 1-1/2" coupler with clamps, one for the top, the other for the bottom.
Make sure you measure your existing pipe and confirm that it's 1-1/2"
Good luck!
@@andyn8998 Thanks. Ours is going behind a wall so I believe the 4" pipe may be too wide for both the existing outlet box with spacing of the hot and cold water pipes; and the existing wall space, so we may go with a 3" instead.
@@pamr308 Anything bigger than the 1-1/2" would help. Is yours spilling just a little or a lot?
@@andyn8998 a lot when it’s a regular load. Also its in a building so we’ve had it snaked several times in past year and nothing has resolved it fully. We believe it’s a venting issue
@@pamr7359 If that's the case then this alone may not resolve the issue. You see, the larger pipe can only hold a certain volume of water and if what you have overflowed on the floor is more that what it can hold then you'll have spill over. You may want to also snake the vent if you believe that it's obstructed and BTW, don't shove the drain tube too far down the pipe and leave some opening at the top for venting. Good luck!
Hi， may I know what’s this
I couldn’t see you a screenshot
If the problem is a line restriction, as the restriction increases you are going to have back pressure build up on your washing machine discharge and unduly stress the pump.
Wrong
This Machines turn 1000 rpm per minute & you can not put the drain hose in the drain pipe more than 5 to 6 inches! I had the same problem called a plumber & said I will unclog the drain for $739.00
I thought about it said said no thank!
The machines come with a long drain house & the installed it either 15 inches the hose in the drain pipe!
I took it up to only 5 inches secure it so it will not come back out !
Problem fixed 😂😂😂😂😂😂
why do you need that trap ???
The trap is used so the sewer smell doesn't come through the pipe. Water will sit in the trap blocking air/smell.
How long did u not have that overflow issue
It's been good so far after a couple of months.
It’s not helpful if you’re not showing us the steps. You’re just showing us the before and after with no information what happened in between 🤷🏻
Thank goodness, because nobody should ever do this. Every plumber that watches this video is going to cry.
Wtf??
That’s a simple fix? Yeah ok. 🤦🏽♀️
It's a very simple fix. buy the pieces of pipe, glue them together. Cut off the old pipe and glue the new to the old. Install a bracket to help support all the water weight.
The alternative is to have your drain dug up and replaced with larger piping all the way down.
NEVER ever do this.
It absolutely will not solve anything.
It's not proper, but the pipe will hold extra water volume so the drain can have time to discharge the water. Again - not proper, but it technically does work.
ᵖʳᵒᵐᵒˢᵐ 😪