No I got rid of the derailleur years ago and got a Enviolo (NuVinci) CVT and had perfect shifting ever since. Add to that my homemade automatic shifting and I've got something old fashioned derailleur gears can never offer. An infinite speed bicycle that can always maintain my perfect cadence.
My Canyon Inflite is noisy on just one of the cogs on the cassette. Has been adjusted but still noisy. At least when I shift to it I know i have 3 more smaller gears to shift to.
Just a tip here for tutorial video in general: explain to the viewer what the piece of equipment does and the reason you are doing something to it first.
My extra tip for the front derailleur cable tensioning is to wedge it open a little with a 6mm Allen Key. That way once you've clamped the cable, you can remove the Allen Key and anything slack that you've not been able to remove by had will be removed by the front derailleur itself as it moved back to its natural resting position.
If you just buy high quality cables, you will have crisp shifting for a very long time! I use jagwire cables and I love the shifting of my mechanical group with jagwire cables even more than my electronic shifting! I will always buy a mechanical groupset again and just use jagwire cables! Except on the tt-bike I will choose for electronic shifting.
Jagwire pro cables are really nice in that they are run thru dies and polished to give the actual wires a smoother finish. Coated cables can run smooth when new ONLY when installed CAREFULLY. Eventually the coating wheres off and always gunks up inside the housing. In the shop, we see this all the time with expensive Shimano cables. Dura Ace are nice cables but must be installed perfectly. With the tight bends required on some frame, routings and shifters coated cables are easily damaged and wear faster than they should.
Good video, I thought you would never mention how the derailleur hanger can bend out of alignment but you snuck it in the at the end. The shifting problems I had recently were down to a bent hanger. It was skipping sprockets, failing to shift, shifting under load. Even if the H and L screws are adjusted properly the chain will still drop off the highest or lowest sprocket because the hanger will have moved the derailleur closer to or further from the frame.
If that's not the very first thing to check, I think you'd be mistaken. All shifting is dependent on it and all it takes to confirm is looking at the pulleys from behind and where they line up.
I have just replaced the cable to my front derailleur, I lubricated it with ball bearing grease all the way, the bike is foldable so the outer cable goes all the way, with a bit of tuning now it works better than ever and in town I now use it like a stick shift in a car. Trouble with those cables is that they deteriorate gradually, and you only notice it when you replace it! eels like a complete new bike!
I've had automatic shifting for a couple of years now absolutely love it. I do have an infinite speed bicycle though not sure if I'd want it with derailleur gears.
Thanks for your reply, @@Ed.R, nice to hear that you have a system you like. And I think automatic Di2 could work in all sorts of configurations, with a manual override when you want to stand or do something unanticipated. And the give-and-take would be entertaining--okay, okay, I'll spin more, sorry.
I had no idea automatic gears were a thing, I'd love to be able to set my cadence and ride to my heart rates content... What a fantastic system that would be for training
I give my chain a good soak in degreaser, then get all excess off with a microfiber then oil it 1 drop of 3in1 oil to every link of the chain then run the chain through the microfiber to remove excess oil. Chain should allways be nice and floppy and not gritty inbetween the links.
Great advice thanks 😊 I would like to add a problem I encountered on a bike I built for this summer 😎 my gear changing was terrible 🤔 I did everything I could adjustment wise 😱 eventually I stumbled across the problem, I had fitted the wrong size spacer behind the cassette hence the sprockets on the cassette were not locked into place 😵 once the correct spacer was fitted perfect gear changes ☺️😇😃
I really like working on the new Shimano Dura Ace and Ultegra derailleurs. Great that they have an adjustment on the front for cable tension and that they have gone to Allen heads to do this ! Keep up the videos Jon, love them, and pick my bike for the bike vault ;-)
Don't you mean the word "housing" at 3:46: I always thought the wire that runs inside the liner or housing is called the "cable", but I'm not a native speaker and "housings" are cables in a sense as well. Otherwise top notch video. I had completely forgotten about trying the first tip you give here on my rather poorly shifting bike. Will definitely try this.
i wouldn't dare to touch or adjust the tension of my gears….i trust the local shop. I have a brand new cervelo and he too sometimes makes soft "toc" when changing gears. I notice the shimano 105 has a very sensitive mecanism. If you press too hard it changes two gears...Next Week my bike is going to the end of season treatment to get that all fixed !
Thanks for sharing. You make my new bike even more perfect. One small question though. Is it common that 1mm gap at 11/52 may cause chain touching the other side of deraileur cage at 23,25,28/52? Or 1mm gap at 28/36 ---> chain touch at 11,12,13/36? (I know we are not suppose to use gears like this. I just want to make sure I did it right.)
Get some stripped out cable housing and use the plastic inner to use it as a thread through. Before removing cable, thread the sheath over the cable (long enough to enter and exit the holes comfortably), Pull cable through and out, making sure not to disturb the sheath; Hope that makes sense
Steve Watt Instructions are all over you tube. Each bike and model are a little different. Be patient, careful and take it slow the 1st time. Or if you're intimidated, bring it to us pros! We'll get it sorted for you. As a long time mechanic, I just don't see the point in internal routing. I wouldn't own such a frame or recommend one to my friends.
The tips are all correct, but the order of the procedures is out of whack. You should always start with frame alignment and the rear derailleur hanger alignment. Without these being perfect, you will never have good shifting. Proceed to front derailleur positioning, and then the limit screws front and rear. Finish with the cable tensioning (the front high limit adjustment will have to wait until after the cable is installed). Yes, in that order.
@7:25 yes you should stop immediatly and check the hanger if its straight!! I know its tips for home mechanics but its a really important step! You dont build a house on a un-even ground.. get your facts straight and try again! I have seen wheels and frames smashed to bits by bend hangers. Gears not right, you start at the hanger and make your way forward!
Ultegra R8000 is a pain to index gears with. Over designed and not user friendly, especially the RD barrel adjuster. Also the cable housing for the FD is a faff on.
Completely agree on this. Me and my mates experience the trouble trying to turn the barrel adjuster. We figured out that due to short outer cable, there is too much pressure/tension pressing the barrel adjuster into its own RD slot. Try pushing the RD's lower jockey arm forward towards the front chainring to release some tension; or perhaps the outer cable housing is too long, when i trimmed a few mm it worked well as well
Glad I'm not the only one. I have changed my RD barrel adjuster to a normal dial one. Much easier and swifter than the press in button, slide up and twist action of the original.
I have allways greased my inner cables of brakes and gears with ball bearing grease, but this must have disadvantages, but my bikes are outside a lot of time, and I use it daily, so it is exposed to weather quite a lot, my outer cable covers all the way. what are the disadvantages of ball bearing grease?
I wonder why Trek decided to have a different rear brake housing cable routing through the top tube between the Emonda SL (right side entry) and the Emonda SLR (left side entry). By the looks of it, it seems the SLR routing rear brake is better than the SL. Any comments?
Hi Jon - thanks for all your videos! I have a question about my front derailleur. I recently replaced my front chainring to a 105-5800 50/34 from an FSA Gossamer 50/34. I had to do some adjusting to make sure there was no rub, etc. But now when I try to shift into the big ring it requires a significant amount of pressure to make it happen. Downshifting works fine. What is going on?
2:09 at this point, i usually dont recommend routing the case like this or you make sure line up cable well and put liner/slick tube/ telfon tube inside the frame other wise, they are crossed , milling , scratching each other insde
not all thatbetter. Color in wax isn't know to increase performance afaik. Also, it looks like someone wanted an pink accent on the chain and ended up with sth they didn't like after all and simply left it on, because cleaning would be too much of an effort
1st things to check ALWAYS, Straight Derailleur hanger, Clean, oiled chain, not overly 'stretched. Clean non gummed up drivetrain. Check limit screws without cable secured. Not too much cable tension in high gear Proper 'B' tension adjustment. Clean, non frayed cables, no kinks, clean smooth cable housing, clean solid cable routing everywhere. Some badly designed frames (especially internal or aero routings) require specific and perfect cable routing. Some frames will never have good routing and excellent shifting. Wherever you can, K. I. S. S. !!
One other thing happened to me that could be added: I had problems changing from the 3rd to the 4th sprocket when shifting to easier gears. 4th to 3rd was OK. And all other gear changes worked just fine. I couldn't figure out what was wrong, until I took a closer look at the cassette and noticed that the forth cog was a bit misalligned and seemed just a bit more rotated to the front compared to the others. When I removed the cassette from the freehub body it turned out that the freehub body was damaged by the cassette (steel biting into aluminum). However the forth cog caused a much deeper indentation than the others, hence the cog was misaligned in relation to the rest and the chain was not able to climb properly from the 3rd to the 4th sprocket. I need to by a new freehub body to solve the shifting problem. Since then it was working again. Any hints how to avoid this kind of damage to the freehub body?
What's the best way to configure two different wheels? I have a rear wheel for my trainer and the gears are not shifting smoothy. My main wheel is perfect.
1. Check that the cassette on your trainer wheel is in good condition. 2. Make sure that the spacer(s) are in the the correct place - this includes the spacer that looks like a washer at the back. 3. Adjust the b-tension screw. See 9:13 in this video. If you do change between a cassette like a 12-23 on the trainer and a 11-28 on the road then when you make adjustments to the b-tension screw, just remember how much your turned it to adjust and then alter it that amount then you get ready to take the bike off the trainer. If it's something that you do often and you can make the adjustment on the trainer, considered just buying the correct sized screwdriver or allen key to make the adjustment and leave it next to the trainer.
I'm a committed tubeless roadie and MTB cyclist. Every so often I add more sealant through the valves. On my road bike I haven't had a flat in a few years but have added sealant a few times so that it doesn't dry out. Is there a point at which I should pull the tire out and scrub out or try to remove sealant? I'm sure it's adding weight and drying out on the inside of the tires over time Recommendations for long term tubless users? #Torqueback
Usually you'd just wear out the tires before build up gets excessive. Use something like Orange seal which doesn't dry up real fast like others. If you're a weight weenie then Im not sure how I can help!! I'd feel sorry!
What happens if you don’t charge your di2 shifter ? are you just stuck on the gear? Horrible if you were descending and now have to climb a super steep hill.
shifting on an empty battery causes a chemical fault chain reaction which conducts residual charge to a carbon frame which catastrophically explodes just riding along
Hi Jon, my gears have problems on the second gear where it makes clicking noises. But the problems do not occur on any other gears. What is causing the problem? #Torqueback
Which gear do you mean exactly? If it's on the rear sprockets, it may be an alignment issue if every other gear is fine - stand behind the bike as see if the rear derailer looks out of line with the sprockets. If not that, it might be that the B-tension is too tight - the derailer is being held too far away from the cassette.
Thank you so much, but please can you tell me why the rear derailleur got two index adjuster, one in the derailleur and the other in the handle bar where the shifter are, so can I use any of them or??? , thank you in advanced for the reply!!!
I'm not on twitter or facebook but would like to ask a question on rim's I have a new set of deep section rims which are clincher and tubeless compatible. I currently run 23mm clinchers as 25mm tyres rub on my frame (Size M Canyon Aero road) If I put 25mm tubeless tyres on, would the overall circumference of the wheel and tyre be smaller than with the Clincher set up?Are some rim's slightly larger than others?25mm W 50mm deep.Many thanks Paul
There is no standard for tyres wheels. Some wheels with 25mm tyres will measure totally different to others. Best bet is to pop into your local bike shop and see if they will let you swap wheels in and out to see what fits. Also keep in mind that rear wheels need slightly more clearance to allow for frame flex as you ride.
Thanks for the heads up, I will for now have to stick with my 23mm tyres but once I've worn them out I will see if tyre type makes a difference. currently running Continental Grand Prix 4000's
Hi GCN! I have perfect shifting going up the cassette (I.e easier gears) however when going down the cassette (I.e harder gears) the shifts are really hesitant, any ideas how to resolve?? Thanks M
Sounds like there's too much friction on the cables, so the mech can't pull the slack through efficiently. If changing the cables doesn't help, try lubing the pivots in the mech.
This is probably due to friction inside the cable housings. When shifting to lighter gears the force you put on the levers does the job. When shifting to harder gears the tension of the spring inside the rear derailleur does the job, and if there is too much friction inside the cable housing the force of the spring will not be strong enough to pull the cable. New cables and housings will do the trick.
Does Shimano PTFE lube (chain lube) suit for lubricating shimano brifters? May it destroy plastic/rubber parts? Last winter. I could not shift to big chain ring on cold weather. The lever just went freely to emptiness with no resistance. I figured, that the grease inside has got thick. I poured some of Shimano ptfe lube inside. I had also silicone oil, but I thought that maybe there's something similar, like with hydraulic brakes. That shimano is into mineral oils while sram's into silicone oil and.. So I used shimano oil that it would be at least same brand. But it did not help to fix it. Decided to dismantle it a bit.. To get it properly cleaned/fixed re lubricated, I removed the rubber covers of hoods to get good access, to discover and remove the cover under side of shifter body.(Shimano 105 5800 shifters). I stretched the rubbers and pulled them off over hoods and levers.. while shifters still on bike and all cables intact. When I put them back afterward, they were loose fitted.. Did I stretch them out so much, or did the oil made them to swollen/grow in size? Or both? And now the shifting problem is back, even though it's not that cold. The lever is not always catching to mechanismus, not letting me to switch to big ring. So it seems I have to do it again! It suck, because it's so much work.. I would need to remove handlebar tape.. disconnect all cables, since I want to replace also rubber covers and I guess they are to come off to that direction.. Who on earth designed such things!
Hardi Erstu First make sure your cables run smooth, arent frayed, broken or wires havent gotten into the guts of the shifting mechanism. What you're experiencing normally happens to older and dirty shifters. Try spraying a penetrating lube into the shifter. tri flow works well, sometimes stronger degreasers are required.Move the shifter lots and blow with compressed air. Do it over and over. Let the oil soak in. Keep trying. 8 times out of 10 I'll be successful. If not, there may be a shard of cable wire jamming things up or shifters may be worn out and require replacement. If you removed hoods or got them really oily and stretched they won't stay put. Get new ones. YES, brifters are complicated and VERY expensive to replace. I use old school bar end shifters or down tube shifters to avoid them!! My shifters last for DECADES with NO MAINTENANCE besides cable/housing changes now every several years.
It's perhaps not super clear, but at that point he tells you to change gear using the gear lever and then turn the barrel adjuster to make sure the chain gets on the correct sprocket.
You shift up a gear but no gear change happens because the cable is too loose to move the derailleur enough to be under the next sprocket of your cassette. So you twist the barrel to tighten the cable and thereby moving the derailleur to the next sprocket so it's actually in the next gear. Then your shifter and derailleur are in sync.
Tobías Kwast yeah until the battery dies! Great for cashed up pro teams but for Joe average a dropped bike can mean expensive shifter and derailleur. If I ever go electronic it's SRAM even though I'm a die hard Shimano.man.
As usual, another useless video from GCN. You go to enough detail to confuse/mislead anyone who wants to learn and skip enough detail so that no one can actually do anything with the information and drive the people who know crazy. Just stop with the nonsense. People, go watch Park Tool videos. That guy over there is not as glamorous but he also doesn't miss anything. The rest you will figure out as you work through it. Park Tools videos on CZcams are free. Park Tools are on the expensive side though.
@@esvegateban I thought you were going to say you tried on a blocked one and it exploded in your face or something. I sort of get what you mean. All the dirt in the first few centimetres will just get distributed down its length. There's also a chance it might all get blown out though.
Was a little apprehensive when buying this with the few negative reviews on here, but this was exactly the kind of bike I was looking for. czcams.com/users/postUgkxn_jUDSlprMIeubd9rHdEAnv59nKfjcKv I plan to ride it on paved roadways and trails, and wanted a "Grocery Getter" so to speak. After receiving it (without any damage), I had it out of the box, and fully assembled in about 30 minutes. I did not have to look at the manual, and I'm glad because I did look at it after I got it together, and it looks like it's a manual for several different styles. I did have to adjust the breaks and gear shifters, but that's been my experience with every bike I've owned. There was one review in particular that made me nervous, saying it was not meant for someone 6'4", it was too short. Well I'm 6'5" (230lbs) with a 36" inseam, and can tell you this bike fits perfectly, granted the seat is in it's highest safe position. I've only had it for 3 days so far, and if things change I will update my review, but I put 26 miles on it so far, and it rides like a dream. Very comfortable seating position. The front suspension is good for the occasional rock or bump you hit on asphalt, but this bike is not made to be taken off road, and I'm OK with that. I was particularly happy to see the wheels were trued perfectly. I was expecting to have to take them in and have them trued at a local bike shop, as I've had to do with all my past bike purchases, but in this case they were already in great shape. For the money, this is an awesome bike.
Do your gears need some attention? Let us know how you get on with Jon's tips 👇
Nope
No I got rid of the derailleur years ago and got a Enviolo (NuVinci) CVT and had perfect shifting ever since. Add to that my homemade automatic shifting and I've got something old fashioned derailleur gears can never offer. An infinite speed bicycle that can always maintain my perfect cadence.
My Canyon Inflite is noisy on just one of the cogs on the cassette. Has been adjusted but still noisy. At least when I shift to it I know i have 3 more smaller gears to shift to.
who won the wahoo kickr?
could you even consider that as "shifting"? I mean it's a CVT.
Just a tip here for tutorial video in general: explain to the viewer what the piece of equipment does and the reason you are doing something to it first.
My extra tip for the front derailleur cable tensioning is to wedge it open a little with a 6mm Allen Key. That way once you've clamped the cable, you can remove the Allen Key and anything slack that you've not been able to remove by had will be removed by the front derailleur itself as it moved back to its natural resting position.
Still can’t figure out why I keep watching these videos when I have a great bike mechanic who I always end up using to fix things!
good tips. I save thousands every year working on my bikes.
Properly cleaned, and lubricated chain helps. as well as properly aligning the front derailleur with the outer chainring.
If you just buy high quality cables, you will have crisp shifting for a very long time! I use jagwire cables and I love the shifting of my mechanical group with jagwire cables even more than my electronic shifting! I will always buy a mechanical groupset again and just use jagwire cables! Except on the tt-bike I will choose for electronic shifting.
Jagwire pro are great cables
SanderCycling I bought some black.phosphates cables can't remember the brand to replace the Shimano ones. No.more gunk.
Jagwire pro cables are really nice in that they are run thru dies and polished to give the actual wires a smoother finish.
Coated cables can run smooth when new ONLY when installed CAREFULLY. Eventually the coating wheres off and always gunks up inside the housing. In the shop, we see this all the time with expensive Shimano cables. Dura Ace are nice cables but must be installed perfectly. With the tight bends required on some frame, routings and shifters coated cables are easily damaged and wear faster than they should.
Good video, I thought you would never mention how the derailleur hanger can bend out of alignment but you snuck it in the at the end. The shifting problems I had recently were down to a bent hanger. It was skipping sprockets, failing to shift, shifting under load. Even if the H and L screws are adjusted properly the chain will still drop off the highest or lowest sprocket because the hanger will have moved the derailleur closer to or further from the frame.
If that's not the very first thing to check, I think you'd be mistaken. All shifting is dependent on it and all it takes to confirm is looking at the pulleys from behind and where they line up.
I have just replaced the cable to my front derailleur, I lubricated it with ball bearing grease all the way, the bike is foldable so the outer cable goes all the way, with a bit of tuning now it works better than ever and in town I now use it like a stick shift in a car. Trouble with those cables is that they deteriorate gradually, and you only notice it when you replace it! eels like a complete new bike!
"we have heaps of products for you to spend your pocket money on". you sold your soul.
Maybe perfect shifting will be when a Wahoo chats with Di2 and does it for you.
I've had automatic shifting for a couple of years now absolutely love it. I do have an infinite speed bicycle though not sure if I'd want it with derailleur gears.
Thanks for your reply, @@Ed.R, nice to hear that you have a system you like. And I think automatic Di2 could work in all sorts of configurations, with a manual override when you want to stand or do something unanticipated. And the give-and-take would be entertaining--okay, okay, I'll spin more, sorry.
I had no idea automatic gears were a thing, I'd love to be able to set my cadence and ride to my heart rates content... What a fantastic system that would be for training
I give my chain a good soak in degreaser, then get all excess off with a microfiber then oil it 1 drop of 3in1 oil to every link of the chain then run the chain through the microfiber to remove excess oil. Chain should allways be nice and floppy and not gritty inbetween the links.
Such thorough explanations of adjusting the gearing system, really a life saver for bikers :D
Great video Jon. Very clear guidance for a problem everyone has at sometime. Thanks
Thanks very much for this video and now I have my first road bike I have set the gears up properly.
I really like your videos wher your explain und show what you explain directly on a bike
Another good one 👍👋, very good explanation, good job 👏👍, Stay safe and have a good one 🙏👍😊
Great advice thanks 😊 I would like to add a problem I encountered on a bike I built for this summer 😎 my gear changing was terrible 🤔 I did everything I could adjustment wise 😱 eventually I stumbled across the problem, I had fitted the wrong size spacer behind the cassette hence the sprockets on the cassette were not locked into place 😵 once the correct spacer was fitted perfect gear changes ☺️😇😃
I really like working on the new Shimano Dura Ace and Ultegra derailleurs. Great that they have an adjustment on the front for cable tension and that they have gone to Allen heads to do this !
Keep up the videos Jon, love them, and pick my bike for the bike vault ;-)
Pretty decent advice. Hard to fault.
Don't you mean the word "housing" at 3:46: I always thought the wire that runs inside the liner or housing is called the "cable", but I'm not a native speaker and "housings" are cables in a sense as well. Otherwise top notch video. I had completely forgotten about trying the first tip you give here on my rather poorly shifting bike. Will definitely try this.
there is a tool to check the wear on the cogs (teeth) of the cassette. looks like a mini chain whip.
This is the last time I am watching this channel!Amount of commercials is sickening!
Hi wasnt too clear where the 5 -6 mm clearance was above the rear jockey wheel, maybe a close up with a dimension overlaid?
Best way I have found to lubricate inner cables is a blunt needle syringe.
i wouldn't dare to touch or adjust the tension of my gears….i trust the local shop. I have a brand new cervelo and he too sometimes makes soft "toc" when changing gears. I notice the shimano 105 has a very sensitive mecanism. If you press too hard it changes two gears...Next Week my bike is going to the end of season treatment to get that all fixed !
Thanks for sharing. You make my new bike even more perfect. One small question though. Is it common that 1mm gap at 11/52 may cause chain touching the other side of deraileur cage at 23,25,28/52? Or 1mm gap at 28/36 ---> chain touch at 11,12,13/36? (I know we are not suppose to use gears like this. I just want to make sure I did it right.)
You could have added some advice on how to get new cables to go through inside frame cabling.
Get some stripped out cable housing and use the plastic inner to use it as a thread through.
Before removing cable, thread the sheath over the cable (long enough to enter and exit the holes comfortably), Pull cable through and out, making sure not to disturb the sheath;
Hope that makes sense
Steve Watt Instructions are all over you tube. Each bike and model are a little different. Be patient, careful and take it slow the 1st time. Or if you're intimidated, bring it to us pros! We'll get it sorted for you.
As a long time mechanic, I just don't see the point in internal routing. I wouldn't own such a frame or recommend one to my friends.
That bike is a beauty!
The tips are all correct, but the order of the procedures is out of whack. You should always start with frame alignment and the rear derailleur hanger alignment. Without these being perfect, you will never have good shifting. Proceed to front derailleur positioning, and then the limit screws front and rear. Finish with the cable tensioning (the front high limit adjustment will have to wait until after the cable is installed). Yes, in that order.
really hope that's a presenter's bike. the paint job is top notch!
I am mostly having problem shifting to a smaller sprocket on the cassette mostly between 5 6 and 7th gear
Doddy beat you to it!😂 very useful video nonetheless🙏🏼
Si beat both
Shouldn't you slacken the cable before adjusting the limit screws?
This is video is gold
@7:25 yes you should stop immediatly and check the hanger if its straight!! I know its tips for home mechanics but its a really important step! You dont build a house on a un-even ground.. get your facts straight and try again! I have seen wheels and frames smashed to bits by bend hangers. Gears not right, you start at the hanger and make your way forward!
Ultegra R8000 is a pain to index gears with. Over designed and not user friendly, especially the RD barrel adjuster. Also the cable housing for the FD is a faff on.
Completely agree on this. Me and my mates experience the trouble trying to turn the barrel adjuster. We figured out that due to short outer cable, there is too much pressure/tension pressing the barrel adjuster into its own RD slot. Try pushing the RD's lower jockey arm forward towards the front chainring to release some tension; or perhaps the outer cable housing is too long, when i trimmed a few mm it worked well as well
SAF1981 yeah went back to.my dura ace 9100 that derailleur is very smooth and the adjuster is fine.
To put more tension on the cable on the Ultegra R8000 RD you also must lift up a litlle bit the barrel adjuster before you turn it anticlockwise.
I also hate the lift action. I wonder why shimano did this. So it's childproof ?
Glad I'm not the only one. I have changed my RD barrel adjuster to a normal dial one. Much easier and swifter than the press in button, slide up and twist action of the original.
My geran on my Valiret is 3 up to 7 my geran seet to 2 how can i reset it on valiret
Great masterclass, thanks
Is bike chain treated with wend wax? A nice pink touch.
6:42 do this with the cable disconnected from the derailleur.
Totally unnecessary to remove the cable to make “travel limit screw adjustments”.
you said everything in 14 minutes !!!!
nice pink bike Jon
Why are so few people interested in this type of knowledge ?!
Can‘t find the shifting cables on my red eTap 🤔
I have allways greased my inner cables of brakes and gears with ball bearing grease, but this must have disadvantages, but my bikes are outside a lot of time, and I use it daily, so it is exposed to weather quite a lot, my outer cable covers all the way. what are the disadvantages of ball bearing grease?
Excellent video. Thank you.
Thanks
I wonder why Trek decided to have a different rear brake housing cable routing through the top tube between the Emonda SL (right side entry) and the Emonda SLR (left side entry). By the looks of it, it seems the SLR routing rear brake is better than the SL. Any comments?
I'll try this. My hybrid has FD chatter in 3 and 1 that drives me nuts.
Hi Jon - thanks for all your videos! I have a question about my front derailleur. I recently replaced my front chainring to a 105-5800 50/34 from an FSA Gossamer 50/34. I had to do some adjusting to make sure there was no rub, etc. But now when I try to shift into the big ring it requires a significant amount of pressure to make it happen. Downshifting works fine. What is going on?
Very informative thanks.
2:09 at this point, i usually dont recommend routing the case like this
or you make sure line up cable well and put liner/slick tube/ telfon tube inside the frame
other wise, they are crossed , milling , scratching each other insde
Jon, you are without question GCN's new top presenter but pink chain? It's just not pretty.
Its not his bike and its not a pink chain, its pink wax on a chain.
not all thatbetter. Color in wax isn't know to increase performance afaik. Also, it looks like someone wanted an pink accent on the chain and ended up with sth they didn't like after all and simply left it on, because cleaning would be too much of an effort
beautiful bike!
That's one cool bike...
panzerveps I like the paint and chain combo
1st things to check ALWAYS,
Straight Derailleur hanger,
Clean, oiled chain, not overly 'stretched. Clean non gummed up drivetrain.
Check limit screws without cable secured.
Not too much cable tension in high gear
Proper 'B' tension adjustment.
Clean, non frayed cables, no kinks, clean smooth cable housing, clean solid cable routing everywhere.
Some badly designed frames (especially internal or aero routings) require specific and perfect cable routing. Some frames will never have good routing and excellent shifting.
Wherever you can,
K. I. S. S. !!
I Love My New Wheels!
When do you know that the cable needs to be replaced? Thanks
Never dodgy gears, ALWAYS front derailleur
Hi Jon, great tips, be carefully with that beauty!!!
One other thing happened to me that could be added: I had problems changing from the 3rd to the 4th sprocket when shifting to easier gears. 4th to 3rd was OK. And all other gear changes worked just fine. I couldn't figure out what was wrong, until I took a closer look at the cassette and noticed that the forth cog was a bit misalligned and seemed just a bit more rotated to the front compared to the others. When I removed the cassette from the freehub body it turned out that the freehub body was damaged by the cassette (steel biting into aluminum). However the forth cog caused a much deeper indentation than the others, hence the cog was misaligned in relation to the rest and the chain was not able to climb properly from the 3rd to the 4th sprocket. I need to by a new freehub body to solve the shifting problem. Since then it was working again. Any hints how to avoid this kind of damage to the freehub body?
avoid alloy freehub bodies unless they have a spline in them or are made by Hadley.
What's the best way to configure two different wheels? I have a rear wheel for my trainer and the gears are not shifting smoothy. My main wheel is perfect.
1. Check that the cassette on your trainer wheel is in good condition.
2. Make sure that the spacer(s) are in the the correct place - this includes the spacer that looks like a washer at the back.
3. Adjust the b-tension screw. See 9:13 in this video. If you do change between a cassette like a 12-23 on the trainer and a 11-28 on the road then when you make adjustments to the b-tension screw, just remember how much your turned it to adjust and then alter it that amount then you get ready to take the bike off the trainer. If it's something that you do often and you can make the adjustment on the trainer, considered just buying the correct sized screwdriver or allen key to make the adjustment and leave it next to the trainer.
Lovely.
my gear shifting keeps playing up on my single speed
even a poorly shifting bike beats a single speed
That chain looks nasty. You can even see where it's deposited bits of pink crud on the cassette.
I'm a committed tubeless roadie and MTB cyclist. Every so often I add more sealant through the valves. On my road bike I haven't had a flat in a few years but have added sealant a few times so that it doesn't dry out. Is there a point at which I should pull the tire out and scrub out or try to remove sealant? I'm sure it's adding weight and drying out on the inside of the tires over time Recommendations for long term tubless users? #Torqueback
Usually you'd just wear out the tires before build up gets excessive. Use something like Orange seal which doesn't dry up real fast like others.
If you're a weight weenie then Im not sure how I can help!! I'd feel sorry!
Jon, why does chain have red substance on it? What is it?
Wax
Oscar has been a great advocate for our WEND Chain Waxes!
@@wendbike8453 Thank you
What advice do you have for lining up the front derailleur when mounting to a braze on- and how does the sram “yaw” impact setup?
Look on you tube. I'm sure it's here.
but we love it :)
What happens if you don’t charge your di2 shifter ? are you just stuck on the gear? Horrible if you were descending and now have to climb a super steep hill.
shifting on an empty battery causes a chemical fault chain reaction which conducts residual charge to a carbon frame which catastrophically explodes just riding along
simon A so your bike just implodes!!! Yeah I’m sticking with my Shimano claris group-set , it’s doing me good .
That was a joke.
Matthew Gies so what really happens?
What happens to a flashlight with a dead battery? Yes you're stuck in one gear!
Perfect! 👍🏻
Hi Jon, my gears have problems on the second gear where it makes clicking noises. But the problems do not occur on any other gears. What is causing the problem? #Torqueback
Which gear do you mean exactly?
If it's on the rear sprockets, it may be an alignment issue if every other gear is fine - stand behind the bike as see if the rear derailer looks out of line with the sprockets. If not that, it might be that the B-tension is too tight - the derailer is being held too far away from the cassette.
Thank you so much, but please can you tell me why the rear derailleur got two index adjuster, one in the derailleur and the other in the handle bar where the shifter are, so can I use any of them or??? , thank you in advanced for the reply!!!
Actually the adjuster in the handle bar is use mostly while you are moving ..when the shifter doesnt shift properly so you can adjust while moving...
This is interesting, first time I know this, thank you so much for the reply, much appreciated!!
I'm not on twitter or facebook but would like to ask a question on rim's I have a new set of deep section rims which are clincher and tubeless compatible. I currently run 23mm clinchers as 25mm tyres rub on my frame (Size M Canyon Aero road) If I put 25mm tubeless tyres on, would the overall circumference of the wheel and tyre be smaller than with the Clincher set up?Are some rim's slightly larger than others?25mm W 50mm deep.Many thanks Paul
There is no standard for tyres wheels. Some wheels with 25mm tyres will measure totally different to others. Best bet is to pop into your local bike shop and see if they will let you swap wheels in and out to see what fits. Also keep in mind that rear wheels need slightly more clearance to allow for frame flex as you ride.
Thanks for the heads up, I will for now have to stick with my 23mm tyres but once I've worn them out I will see if tyre type makes a difference. currently running Continental Grand Prix 4000's
What about that pink gunk on the chain though, that can't be helpful
He's a top bike mechanic. If it was detrimental, it wouldn't be there.
I don’t understand this. Gonna hire me a mechanic. 😅
Hi GCN! I have perfect shifting going up the cassette (I.e easier gears) however when going down the cassette (I.e harder gears) the shifts are really hesitant, any ideas how to resolve?? Thanks M
Sounds like there's too much friction on the cables, so the mech can't pull the slack through efficiently. If changing the cables doesn't help, try lubing the pivots in the mech.
This is probably due to friction inside the cable housings. When shifting to lighter gears the force you put on the levers does the job. When shifting to harder gears the tension of the spring inside the rear derailleur does the job, and if there is too much friction inside the cable housing the force of the spring will not be strong enough to pull the cable. New cables and housings will do the trick.
Loosen your cable tension and reattach.
I had the same problem, it was all fixed with new cables
whats the pink stuff on the chain?
Looks like coloured chain wax.
Wend Wax
new chain ,new derailluer ,new hanger ,new cables ...cant get smooth changes ,sounds like a bag of spanners ...them 2 screws dont do fck all mate .
Isn't that chain short?
Jim Kouk I thought the same. Jockey wheels and derailleur are far too forward of the cassette.
Does Shimano PTFE lube (chain lube) suit for lubricating shimano brifters? May it destroy plastic/rubber parts? Last winter. I could not shift to big chain ring on cold weather. The lever just went freely to emptiness with no resistance. I figured, that the grease inside has got thick. I poured some of Shimano ptfe lube inside. I had also silicone oil, but I thought that maybe there's something similar, like with hydraulic brakes. That shimano is into mineral oils while sram's into silicone oil and.. So I used shimano oil that it would be at least same brand. But it did not help to fix it. Decided to dismantle it a bit.. To get it properly cleaned/fixed re lubricated, I removed the rubber covers of hoods to get good access, to discover and remove the cover under side of shifter body.(Shimano 105 5800 shifters). I stretched the rubbers and pulled them off over hoods and levers.. while shifters still on bike and all cables intact. When I put them back afterward, they were loose fitted.. Did I stretch them out so much, or did the oil made them to swollen/grow in size? Or both? And now the shifting problem is back, even though it's not that cold. The lever is not always catching to mechanismus, not letting me to switch to big ring. So it seems I have to do it again! It suck, because it's so much work.. I would need to remove handlebar tape.. disconnect all cables, since I want to replace also rubber covers and I guess they are to come off to that direction.. Who on earth designed such things!
That seems an extreme problem. Hope you manage to fix it.
Hardi Erstu First make sure your cables run smooth, arent frayed, broken or wires havent gotten into the guts of the shifting mechanism. What you're experiencing normally happens to older and dirty shifters. Try spraying a penetrating lube into the shifter. tri flow works well, sometimes stronger degreasers are required.Move the shifter lots and blow with compressed air. Do it over and over. Let the oil soak in. Keep trying. 8 times out of 10 I'll be successful. If not, there may be a shard of cable wire jamming things up or shifters may be worn out and require replacement.
If you removed hoods or got them really oily and stretched they won't stay put. Get new ones.
YES, brifters are complicated and VERY expensive to replace. I use old school bar end shifters or down tube shifters to avoid them!! My shifters last for DECADES with NO MAINTENANCE besides cable/housing changes now every several years.
i fixed my old shit bike with 2 kicks
I'm stuck trying to get my tape on my handle bars. I'm probably going to use duckt tape, I'm bored. Lol
Sorry, i dont get it. 10:36 if my shifter is in first gear, why i need to wind it until its in the second gear. that means to me iam losing one gear.
It's perhaps not super clear, but at that point he tells you to change gear using the gear lever and then turn the barrel adjuster to make sure the chain gets on the correct sprocket.
You shift up a gear but no gear change happens because the cable is too loose to move the derailleur enough to be under the next sprocket of your cassette. So you twist the barrel to tighten the cable and thereby moving the derailleur to the next sprocket so it's actually in the next gear. Then your shifter and derailleur are in sync.
thank you! now i got it.
I am a simple man I see gear shifting I click it lol. That seat at 1:55 is not UCI approved angle and wonder who rides like that extreme angle.
The bike is leaning forward, look at the wheels.
3 persons dont get perfect shifting no matter what
Step 1: Get electronic shifting
oh I wish I could
Worth each and every money....
Di2 😀😀
Step 2 : tell your screaming family why 3k$ just left the bank account . And why you are super happy about it .
Tobías Kwast yeah until the battery dies! Great for cashed up pro teams but for Joe average a dropped bike can mean expensive shifter and derailleur. If I ever go electronic it's SRAM even though I'm a die hard Shimano.man.
As usual, another useless video from GCN. You go to enough detail to confuse/mislead anyone who wants to learn and skip enough detail so that no one can actually do anything with the information and drive the people who know crazy. Just stop with the nonsense.
People, go watch Park Tool videos. That guy over there is not as glamorous but he also doesn't miss anything. The rest you will figure out as you work through it. Park Tools videos on CZcams are free. Park Tools are on the expensive side though.
Take your bike to a bike shop.
Talk to much just show what to do
Hosing air down your cable tubes is terrible advice.
Why what happened?
To me nothing, because common sense, but to anyone trying it they will only accomplish getting dirt inside. That's physics 101.
@@esvegateban I thought you were going to say you tried on a blocked one and it exploded in your face or something.
I sort of get what you mean. All the dirt in the first few centimetres will just get distributed down its length. There's also a chance it might all get blown out though.
Same reason why you don't wash your bike with the Kärcher at power: dirt will get in your bearings and interfaces.
Absolutely no chance, tubes are quite long for that, also dirt can be sticky if wet.
They are some ugly looking calipers.
Was a little apprehensive when buying this with the few negative reviews on here, but this was exactly the kind of bike I was looking for. czcams.com/users/postUgkxn_jUDSlprMIeubd9rHdEAnv59nKfjcKv I plan to ride it on paved roadways and trails, and wanted a "Grocery Getter" so to speak. After receiving it (without any damage), I had it out of the box, and fully assembled in about 30 minutes. I did not have to look at the manual, and I'm glad because I did look at it after I got it together, and it looks like it's a manual for several different styles. I did have to adjust the breaks and gear shifters, but that's been my experience with every bike I've owned. There was one review in particular that made me nervous, saying it was not meant for someone 6'4", it was too short. Well I'm 6'5" (230lbs) with a 36" inseam, and can tell you this bike fits perfectly, granted the seat is in it's highest safe position. I've only had it for 3 days so far, and if things change I will update my review, but I put 26 miles on it so far, and it rides like a dream. Very comfortable seating position. The front suspension is good for the occasional rock or bump you hit on asphalt, but this bike is not made to be taken off road, and I'm OK with that. I was particularly happy to see the wheels were trued perfectly. I was expecting to have to take them in and have them trued at a local bike shop, as I've had to do with all my past bike purchases, but in this case they were already in great shape. For the money, this is an awesome bike.