I don't think I've ever seen such a major failure on an engine that otherwise ran so good, minus the noise of course. Would normally expect internals to become externals with this kind of failure LOL.
I’ve swapped just the crank on a Ford 8n tractor. Problem is that’s an inline 4 and this is a V8. You can try unbolting each rod and pushing it all the way to the top of bore. You might be able to get the crank out if you get it angled right, maybe….. Then comes the issue of getting everything times right. Personally I would pull the heads and pull everything the right way. You can reuse the rings as long as one isn’t broken.
Had an e90 535xi N54 (inline 6 3.0L twin turbo) a few years ago that amazed me. Customer heard a bang on the freeway, vehicle started misfiring, They pulled over, shut it off, and had it towed. Ran fine, except the misfire. Told my boss "there's a hole in the side of the block!" He thought I was just messing with him. We drove that thing in and out of the shop for like 2 weeks while waiting for a used engine to show up.
It's amazing that enough force existed to break the crank, but not enough to separate it. This must have been caused by a casting defect, otherwise the window for this to happen would be insanely small.
Please keep this updated. This is interesting that that failed, especially a LB7 crank. Obviously it was flawed, possibly before it was put back in on the rebuild and not caught with a magnaflux… I have seen bent stock rods on high HP setups before. But rarely crank failure. If you are running stock injectors, You are well within the “safe“ limits for the rotating assembly. But, there is always that chance of anything failing! Lol!
I will. I'm currently building some shelving in my shop to hold all the motor parts as I continue to break the engine down. I'm probably going to put some really beefy stuff in next time like a billet crank and upgraded rods. I DON'T want to do this again.
I had a jasper rebuild fail at 14k miles. Broken crank just like yours. Since it was passed 2 years( 8mos.) They wouldn't stand behind it. This decision cost them a fairly large commercial account.
That last sentence made me happy. You know if they wanted to, they could have been lenient. Especially since it was only 14k miles(how could you prove that to them tho) and this type of break is a defect I think.
Pull rod caps, etc, etc. Plastigauge crank to current bearings. Order bearings accordingly to accommodate new crank. (if they make various bearings.) Otherwise have crank machined to factory new bearings. (most bearings are layered, so can't be machined from w/e metals laying around)
I had the same problem with my lmm. I pulled the engine left the heads on and swapped the crank! Works great! Drive it to Idaho from Phoenix. Works great!
The easy answer for me is if you want that engine 100% right then it has to go back to builder. But if you don't wanna do that, I'd say it's still possible to cobble it back together and take your chances. Might be interesting to see how it turns out. I would assess the condition of the rods on the broken journal by visual inspection. If the only damage is on the bearing inserts, the thrust surfaces on the rod ends look OK, and the wrist pins feel good in the pistons, then I'd leave the rods in place. You will know if leaving the heads in place is doable when you pull the old crank out. If the heads have to come off, I'd be sure to use aerosol copper sealant on the new head gaskets. Permatex and Loctite make this stuff and it's a good product. I've been burned in the past changing heads getting water seeping into the oil. The spray copper fixed that, now every head gasket I do gets it. I recently witnessed a warranty repair at a GM dealership on a 2017 gas V8 engine. It had an active fuel mgt malfunction that caused a hydro lock on one cylinder that bent the con rod. There were also a couple failed lifters. I am friendly with the tech who fixed it and he walked me thru everything on it. He cobbled it back together with minimum new parts. I expressed the opinion that if it were my engine I'd want a rebuild or replacement. He replied, GM won't pay for that. I saw it run and it sounded OK. The thing about the newer GM gas V8s is they sound spooky quiet. I've noticed these in store parking lots making almost no under-hood noise or exhaust note, like you could almost sneak up on somebody with it.
Wow, that is insane. I can't believe it still ran with a completely split crank. So obviously the crank is toast, but I wonder how much of this motor can be saved. Please keep us updated!
Never worked on this specific motor but I had a crank snap on a honda cb motor and replaced it and it was all fine. Probably the biggest thing is just to make sure that there wasnt anything going on with the crank bearings or your rod bearings if they didnt wear unevenly then your block should be fine as well.
Couple things come to mind . . . bad harmonic balancer -- or an incorrect crank line bore -- or a reground crank that didn’t get done right, like poor corner fillet radius etc.
Agreed! I suspect there is a bit more to this story, and a fracture right on the nose makes me suspect the harmonic. This thing needs a proper forensic teardown if it is to be salvaged.
well I was wrong when I commented on the other vid, needs a crank and some bearings. you can take all the rod caps off and pull the crank out alone and drop the new one in. you should get new rod and main bearings and you basically got another rebuilt motor!
Dont mess with the heads as some comments said! Most of those making crazy comments have never worked on there own engine. dont buy a fancy crank either. just buy a factory crank and factory rod bearing and put it back together. since you are familiar with tearing it down Iam sure you have an ideal how it all goes back. Put it back together and run it. Should be less then 800 bucks to get that truck back on the road. Also you have your sons to help which will make it easier.
Hi. When this type of failure happens the up and down torsional motion oblongs the mains and renders the entire block useless. I managed to save my block when I started it one day and noticed the timing was off I shut it down. Hope you weren’t running it for very long.
I pulled the crank on a Mopar 440 like that once, I got it out of a bone yard and on inspection it was already bored .40 over and apparently run without an air cleaner and the ring groove was so bad at the top the pistons wouldn’t come out and the bearings were scuffed apparently from lack of oil as one of the valve guide was so loose it was ridiculous and had to be a serious oil burner, long story short it wasn’t worth a complete rebuild to me so I pulled the crank and had it turned .10 and dropped it back in (yes tricky by yourself) with new bearings and cleaned up junk yard 400 heads and gaskets and oil pump and dropped it in an 86 ram and turned the key hopefully for the best and expecting the worse and it sounded and ran perfect, so good in fact I pulled a horse trailer 1400 round trip and countless camping trips pulling a 26ft camper, my son ended up with it and you know 18 year olds with a big block, then he sold it and last I heard they had pulled the motor to put in a street/ strip car, as far as I know the stupid thing is still out there somewhere 🤷🏻♂️ if they only knew the whole story 🤦🏼♂️
Id say put new bearing in it with a new crank and run it. might be best to put new head gaskets in since it would be way way easier on a engine stand then back in the truck
Verify that you may not have a possible warping block or the block having an issue, it would take quite some hell to do that to a diesel cast iron crank. Maybe the conrods where installed improperly?
WOW! you called it! I would pull the bed plate and just swap out that crank for another! It's a bit tricky to do, it helps if you have a friend lining up some of the rods while you drop in the new crank. Check the bearing sizes too, your engine has probably had machine work.
I had an 06 LBZ did the same thing , I drove it two or three hundred miles after it started knocking pulling a 44’ trailer with 2 cars in it before it finally locked up , if it were me I’d put a crank and bearings in and run it after taking a good look at that first rod.
Can be re cranked without pulling heads, did a crank in a lb7 that way. If it has that low of miles on rebuild I would be questioning their sourcing for the crankshaft, especially if they’re not standing behind it. I’d be suspect that its a cheap foreign knock off
Get a crank, undo the bolts, move the pistons a little upstream (remove the glowplugs) insert a new crank. But make sure there is no scoring on the bearings that you can feel with your nails. (ps: removing glowplugs could end up breaking heads but I assume with the rebuild they replaced them right?)
It’s possible from what I’ve heard but not easy. I understand the want to save money but you’d be better to just strip it down so things like rings head gaskets studs ect. Then you know everything’s mint and ready for big numbers
You can put a crank in it but u still have to pull front and rear cover to do so. Don’t be scared to try. I have done it multiple occasions and obviously doing it the right way is the way if u have the money and really need long term reliability but that said I’m also not saying just putting a crank in it won’t give u reliability either. Where do u live I have a lly crank laying on the ground in great condition
My 2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ecodiesel broke its crank and still ran, it had a slight knock under load, suppose it was all held in place and the firing order kept it all in sync.
I'll eat my words. it's broke. I went with the wagler stage 1 AFO cam and a Fluid Damper harmonic balancer to relieve stress on the front of the crank when i built my LB7. 200K bottom end, only added new heads, head gaskets, ARP studs, billet 64.5, wagler stage 1 AFO cam, new bosch injectors with .45% nozzles, dual S&S supersport CP3's with ATS dual kit, CAT filter conversions, merchant auto motor mounts like yours, new glow plugs, Wagler high presssure oil pump-shimmed and pinned, welded water pump, all silicone hoses, 3 core alum radiator, new trans lines to a 34 row trans cooler, bought the trans kit from duramax store with billet torque convertor, straight piped with CTS controller, PPE xcelerator race plus tunes. painted the trans candy apple, motor candy blue, truck looks like a grandpa bought it new, stock tires and wheels, no lift no drop, 2wd ext cab sb, she gets down, surprise many a mustang or charger. So far so good with the build but its a weekend toy, cam and balancer make it rev out super smooth and quick feels like a ricer v8, run it around Dallas Fort Worth, I may post a vid, the afo cam isn't the best if you tow heavy, it revs out too fast-almost like a two-stroke powerband, on the hwy its hard to keep it under 90 but that is freeway speed here anyway
Grant, there is a LOT to diagnose here. It has been awhile since this video was posted, but it really needs a proper cautious forensic teardown. I am a structural analysis guy and I can tell you inspecting that break will reveal a lot to the right guy! Torsional fractures will present a "brookstick" type fracture. I sort of suspect the harmonic balancer but poor tuning or a bad injector can certainly do this! Modern diesels actually track the crankshaft acceleration on each piston to ensure torque is smoothly transferred through the crank. Otherwise, a "hammering" effect will cause the crank to twist, which will eventually lead to fatigue failure. Inspection of the bearings and clearances should be checked before crank is removed.
That's fine for academics but not necessary in the real world. That crank was faulty, so all new GM parts should take care of it. What you describe would have shown up on trouble codes, of which it appears there were none. A new balancer is part of a good rebuild on modern engines.
My father in law had a 2019 that the crank broke on, almost the exact same type of fracture. The gear that drives the injector pump has a pin (rather than a key) that sheared off. Fuel timing got off, crank snapped. Happened just past his 100k warranty line. 2021+ have a full key instead of a pin. Go figure.
First- I'd love to see the response from the company that did your engine work. Then, I'd love to see under the rod cap. You can definately re crank the motor without pulling the heads. You'll need to mic the crank journals to see what size bearing you may need (if it's ground smaller, then you will need oversized bearings). If all the other bearings look good then just replace the one that is scored.
Here's what they said "You engine is approved for warranty repair. Please remove engine from vehicle and ship to DFC. Please advise customer that broken cranks are not covered on Tow/Haul engines (that's the series of engine that I had built for the truck 60k miles ago.) I responded with: "So, this may be a dumb question, but why would we ship you the engine if broken crankshafts are not covered under the warranty?" DFC: "DFC greatly values our customers and would like the opportunity to work with the customer on a replacement engines In most cases of a non-warrantable engine failure DFC evaluates the reusable parts and will give the customer a greatly reduced rate on a rebuild We cannot do this without seeing the engine" After that I stopped communicating and realized I was alone on this build. Me and my sons have been learning together, and having way more fun that we would have otherwise.
@@treeguygrant seems like a canned response, personally I would call them and talk to a live body and ask to be emailed/mailed their full legal warranty, even if it checks out it’s still written verification of their “warranty”. Seems like a bullshit way to do business and a quick way to lose future business 🤷♂️
As a former mechanic, I would say you have two choices; rebuild the engine or replace the engine. Neither one is going to be a cheap fix, but you have a rather large and unusual failure you're dealing with here. That failure could be putting undue stress on other parts of the engine, causing premature wear to occur. Best to either take the thing apart, inspect/blueprint the pieces, replace what's out of spec and/or has unusual wear and then put it all back together and reinstall it in the truck. ....or simply replace the whole motor with another one. Going that route, my vote would be to get a new one (complete with warrenty), but these are rather expensive units, so if you could find a used one with low miles that was in good shape, it might save you a little $$$. Either way, the proper fix for this isn't going to be inexpensive.
@@keijimorita1849 $1500 is still not too bad, considering the cost of everything these days....and you got a killer warrenty on top of that. I'd say you made out. Congrats. -b
You'd be better pulling the rods and pistons out, to just check the cylinder walls. Make sure there's no gouges, no scrapes, that there not out of round from smacking around in there. Better to be safe then sorry
I've seen 2 of these broken come thru my buddies shop. I've heard other mechanics say it was from abuse, but if it's on a stock tune, there should be nothing you could do to break a crank. Am I crazy? Also it can be changed without a teardown, but there are some extra things you have to do. Google should be your friend.
@@treeguygrant Call a lawyer and get them to provide you with a GM crate motor as compensation. Or just sue them for a boatload of money. They're just assuming you won't do anything and just might fold if pushed against the wall.
I don't think I've ever seen such a major failure on an engine that otherwise ran so good, minus the noise of course. Would normally expect internals to become externals with this kind of failure LOL.
Yea, I was kind of blown away too.
I’ve swapped just the crank on a Ford 8n tractor. Problem is that’s an inline 4 and this is a V8. You can try unbolting each rod and pushing it all the way to the top of bore. You might be able to get the crank out if you get it angled right, maybe….. Then comes the issue of getting everything times right. Personally I would pull the heads and pull everything the right way. You can reuse the rings as long as one isn’t broken.
Had an e90 535xi N54 (inline 6 3.0L twin turbo) a few years ago that amazed me. Customer heard a bang on the freeway, vehicle started misfiring, They pulled over, shut it off, and had it towed. Ran fine, except the misfire. Told my boss "there's a hole in the side of the block!" He thought I was just messing with him. We drove that thing in and out of the shop for like 2 weeks while waiting for a used engine to show up.
It's amazing that enough force existed to break the crank, but not enough to separate it. This must have been caused by a casting defect, otherwise the window for this to happen would be insanely small.
@@treeguygrant the block crank journals will probably be out of round.
Good ol' quick disconnect crankshaft
It's looks like variable Crank timing!
Please keep this updated. This is interesting that that failed, especially a LB7 crank. Obviously it was flawed, possibly before it was put back in on the rebuild and not caught with a magnaflux… I have seen bent stock rods on high HP setups before. But rarely crank failure. If you are running stock injectors, You are well within the “safe“ limits for the rotating assembly. But, there is always that chance of anything failing! Lol!
I will. I'm currently building some shelving in my shop to hold all the motor parts as I continue to break the engine down. I'm probably going to put some really beefy stuff in next time like a billet crank and upgraded rods. I DON'T want to do this again.
It cracked because of a constant resonation due to not balancing the engine…they just slapped it back together.
New crank new mains. Send it.
I had a jasper rebuild fail at 14k miles. Broken crank just like yours. Since it was passed 2 years( 8mos.) They wouldn't stand behind it. This decision cost them a fairly large commercial account.
That last sentence made me happy. You know if they wanted to, they could have been lenient. Especially since it was only 14k miles(how could you prove that to them tho) and this type of break is a defect I think.
Probably wasn’t harmonically balanced when it was rebuilt.
Crazy though she still ran smooth like that.
Pull rod caps, etc, etc. Plastigauge crank to current bearings. Order bearings accordingly to accommodate new crank. (if they make various bearings.)
Otherwise have crank machined to factory new bearings. (most bearings are layered, so can't be machined from w/e metals laying around)
I had the same problem with my lmm. I pulled the engine left the heads on and swapped the crank! Works great! Drive it to Idaho from Phoenix. Works great!
Thanks! That's awesome. That's what I am leaning toward. Aftermarket parts are crazy $$$.
Thanks for making this follow up video. I would have said you were full of it. I learned something. Much appreciated!
The easy answer for me is if you want that engine 100% right then it has to go back to builder. But if you don't wanna do that, I'd say it's still possible to cobble it back together and take your chances. Might be interesting to see how it turns out. I would assess the condition of the rods on the broken journal by visual inspection. If the only damage is on the bearing inserts, the thrust surfaces on the rod ends look OK, and the wrist pins feel good in the pistons, then I'd leave the rods in place. You will know if leaving the heads in place is doable when you pull the old crank out. If the heads have to come off, I'd be sure to use aerosol copper sealant on the new head gaskets. Permatex and Loctite make this stuff and it's a good product. I've been burned in the past changing heads getting water seeping into the oil. The spray copper fixed that, now every head gasket I do gets it.
I recently witnessed a warranty repair at a GM dealership on a 2017 gas V8 engine. It had an active fuel mgt malfunction that caused a hydro lock on one cylinder that bent the con rod. There were also a couple failed lifters. I am friendly with the tech who fixed it and he walked me thru everything on it. He cobbled it back together with minimum new parts. I expressed the opinion that if it were my engine I'd want a rebuild or replacement. He replied, GM won't pay for that. I saw it run and it sounded OK. The thing about the newer GM gas V8s is they sound spooky quiet. I've noticed these in store parking lots making almost no under-hood noise or exhaust note, like you could almost sneak up on somebody with it.
Just drop a new crank in it. Install new main bearings and connecting rod bearings
New crank and bearings and slap it back together. I’d inspect that number 1 rod on the side next to the crack to make sure it didn’t get hurt though.
Wow, that is insane. I can't believe it still ran with a completely split crank.
So obviously the crank is toast, but I wonder how much of this motor can be saved. Please keep us updated!
I think the rest of the engine should be good enough
Never worked on this specific motor but I had a crank snap on a honda cb motor and replaced it and it was all fine. Probably the biggest thing is just to make sure that there wasnt anything going on with the crank bearings or your rod bearings if they didnt wear unevenly then your block should be fine as well.
Couple things come to mind . . . bad harmonic balancer -- or an incorrect crank line bore -- or a reground crank that didn’t get done right, like poor corner fillet radius etc.
Agreed! I suspect there is a bit more to this story, and a fracture right on the nose makes me suspect the harmonic. This thing needs a proper forensic teardown if it is to be salvaged.
well I was wrong when I commented on the other vid, needs a crank and some bearings. you can take all the rod caps off and pull the crank out alone and drop the new one in. you should get new rod and main bearings and you basically got another rebuilt motor!
Dont mess with the heads as some comments said! Most of those making crazy comments have never worked on there own engine. dont buy a fancy crank either. just buy a factory crank and factory rod bearing and put it back together. since you are familiar with tearing it down Iam sure you have an ideal how it all goes back. Put it back together and run it. Should be less then 800 bucks to get that truck back on the road. Also you have your sons to help which will make it easier.
Thanks. That's what I'm leaning toward.
Hi. When this type of failure happens the up and down torsional motion oblongs the mains and renders the entire block useless. I managed to save my block when I started it one day and noticed the timing was off I shut it down. Hope you weren’t running it for very long.
I pulled the crank on a Mopar 440 like that once, I got it out of a bone yard and on inspection it was already bored .40 over and apparently run without an air cleaner and the ring groove was so bad at the top the pistons wouldn’t come out and the bearings were scuffed apparently from lack of oil as one of the valve guide was so loose it was ridiculous and had to be a serious oil burner, long story short it wasn’t worth a complete rebuild to me so I pulled the crank and had it turned .10 and dropped it back in (yes tricky by yourself) with new bearings and cleaned up junk yard 400 heads and gaskets and oil pump and dropped it in an 86 ram and turned the key hopefully for the best and expecting the worse and it sounded and ran perfect, so good in fact I pulled a horse trailer 1400 round trip and countless camping trips pulling a 26ft camper, my son ended up with it and you know 18 year olds with a big block, then he sold it and last I heard they had pulled the motor to put in a street/ strip car, as far as I know the stupid thing is still out there somewhere 🤷🏻♂️ if they only knew the whole story 🤦🏼♂️
Id say put new bearing in it with a new crank and run it. might be best to put new head gaskets in since it would be way way easier on a engine stand then back in the truck
Verify that you may not have a possible warping block or the block having an issue, it would take quite some hell to do that to a diesel cast iron crank.
Maybe the conrods where installed improperly?
New crank and bearings. Run it.
That’s wild. I’m shocked it was running as well as it was
Oh... Okay Disregard my last comment. I never would have thought a crank would fail like that and still run. Crazy!
If the bearings are junk then the rest is gonna follow suit. Balance an good bearings are key.
Drop a new crank in and send it! Do it for us! Lol
WOW! you called it! I would pull the bed plate and just swap out that crank for another! It's a bit tricky to do, it helps if you have a friend lining up some of the rods while you drop in the new crank. Check the bearing sizes too, your engine has probably had machine work.
If you like having to pull engines repeatedly then sure just change the crank.
@@Terminxman bearings and a crankshaft it’ll run for another 200k 💯💯
Not true, broken crank requires a linebore on the crank mains or it will happen agian.
I had an 06 LBZ did the same thing , I drove it two or three hundred miles after it started knocking pulling a 44’ trailer with 2 cars in it before it finally locked up , if it were me I’d put a crank and bearings in and run it after taking a good look at that first rod.
Can be re cranked without pulling heads, did a crank in a lb7 that way. If it has that low of miles on rebuild I would be questioning their sourcing for the crankshaft, especially if they’re not standing behind it. I’d be suspect that its a cheap foreign knock off
How can they stand behind it there is 60000 miles on it and god knows how long and what has been done to the engine
@@jackmehoff1565 60,000 is nothing for a DuraMax. That crank was faulty and the shop should be liable for at least a new crank, if not a rebuild.
@@jackmehoff1565 duramaxes are well known to last in the 200k to 500k range. Not sure if you didn't know or......?
Could have been a used up high mile crank with no spring-like quality left in it
@@jackmehoff1565 a lot of engine rebuilders offer 5yr/100k mile warranty, that would be the case of builders actually sticking behind their product
Get a crank, undo the bolts, move the pistons a little upstream (remove the glowplugs) insert a new crank. But make sure there is no scoring on the bearings that you can feel with your nails. (ps: removing glowplugs could end up breaking heads but I assume with the rebuild they replaced them right?)
Wow that's pretty crazy. Looks like you got really lucky. Make sure you get the next crank magnafluxed
It’s possible from what I’ve heard but not easy. I understand the want to save money but you’d be better to just strip it down so things like rings head gaskets studs ect. Then you know everything’s mint and ready for big numbers
You can put a crank in it but u still have to pull front and rear cover to do so. Don’t be scared to try. I have done it multiple occasions and obviously doing it the right way is the way if u have the money and really need long term reliability but that said I’m also not saying just putting a crank in it won’t give u reliability either. Where do u live I have a lly crank laying on the ground in great condition
I'm in the Houston area. Sugar Land.
My 2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ecodiesel broke its crank and still ran, it had a slight knock under load, suppose it was all held in place and the firing order kept it all in sync.
I'll eat my words. it's broke. I went with the wagler stage 1 AFO cam and a Fluid Damper harmonic balancer to relieve stress on the front of the crank when i built my LB7. 200K bottom end, only added new heads, head gaskets, ARP studs, billet 64.5, wagler stage 1 AFO cam, new bosch injectors with .45% nozzles, dual S&S supersport CP3's with ATS dual kit, CAT filter conversions, merchant auto motor mounts like yours, new glow plugs, Wagler high presssure oil pump-shimmed and pinned, welded water pump, all silicone hoses, 3 core alum radiator, new trans lines to a 34 row trans cooler, bought the trans kit from duramax store with billet torque convertor, straight piped with CTS controller, PPE xcelerator race plus tunes. painted the trans candy apple, motor candy blue,
truck looks like a grandpa bought it new, stock tires and wheels, no lift no drop, 2wd ext cab sb, she gets down, surprise many a mustang or charger. So far so good with the build but its a weekend toy, cam and balancer make it rev out super smooth and quick feels like a ricer v8, run it around Dallas Fort Worth, I may post a vid, the afo cam isn't the best if you tow heavy, it revs out too fast-almost like a two-stroke powerband, on the hwy its hard to keep it under 90 but that is freeway speed here anyway
Damn if only my 4g63t would walk that little
Truly bizzare!!!!!! Those cranks are strong as fuck!!!!!!!!
Grant, there is a LOT to diagnose here. It has been awhile since this video was posted, but it really needs a proper cautious forensic teardown. I am a structural analysis guy and I can tell you inspecting that break will reveal a lot to the right guy! Torsional fractures will present a "brookstick" type fracture. I sort of suspect the harmonic balancer but poor tuning or a bad injector can certainly do this! Modern diesels actually track the crankshaft acceleration on each piston to ensure torque is smoothly transferred through the crank. Otherwise, a "hammering" effect will cause the crank to twist, which will eventually lead to fatigue failure. Inspection of the bearings and clearances should be checked before crank is removed.
That's fine for academics but not necessary in the real world. That crank was faulty, so all new GM parts should take care of it. What you describe would have shown up on trouble codes, of which it appears there were none. A new balancer is part of a good rebuild on modern engines.
@@toomanyhobbies2011 Thanks for that. That's what I should have said. "Ignore engineering, just throw parts at it until the problem resolves".....
Why get into it if you're worrying about cost? Just go buy a new one and tear up the old one for knowledge
Mine broke on the other end.. Stopped running but didn't tear anything up either
You can change the firing order on a duramax to help this issue not reappear.
My father in law had a 2019 that the crank broke on, almost the exact same type of fracture. The gear that drives the injector pump has a pin (rather than a key) that sheared off. Fuel timing got off, crank snapped. Happened just past his 100k warranty line. 2021+ have a full key instead of a pin. Go figure.
Somethin i never seen before.
I have seen a lot of broken crankshafts in many different vehicles (all diesel) and is always in the #1 journal. Any idea why?
Very strange. Don't these have forged cranks?
Do these not have thrust washers?
First- I'd love to see the response from the company that did your engine work. Then, I'd love to see under the rod cap. You can definately re crank the motor without pulling the heads. You'll need to mic the crank journals to see what size bearing you may need (if it's ground smaller, then you will need oversized bearings). If all the other bearings look good then just replace the one that is scored.
*undersized bearings you mean, oversized bearings are measured for a larger o.d, undersized are larger I.d
We are probably thinking the same thing; a physically larger bearing to make up for the material lost on crank grinding.,
@@TriStarGearhead yeah for sure
Here's what they said "You engine is approved for warranty repair. Please remove engine from vehicle and ship to DFC. Please advise customer that broken cranks are not covered on Tow/Haul engines (that's the series of engine that I had built for the truck 60k miles ago.)
I responded with: "So, this may be a dumb question, but why would we ship you the engine if broken crankshafts are not covered under the warranty?"
DFC: "DFC greatly values our customers and would like the opportunity to work with the customer on a replacement engines
In most cases of a non-warrantable engine failure DFC evaluates the reusable parts and will give the customer a greatly reduced rate on a rebuild
We cannot do this without seeing the engine"
After that I stopped communicating and realized I was alone on this build. Me and my sons have been learning together, and having way more fun that we would have otherwise.
@@treeguygrant seems like a canned response, personally I would call them and talk to a live body and ask to be emailed/mailed their full legal warranty, even if it checks out it’s still written verification of their “warranty”. Seems like a bullshit way to do business and a quick way to lose future business 🤷♂️
Wouldn't have that problem with 5.9 Cummins
As a former mechanic, I would say you have two choices; rebuild the engine or replace the engine.
Neither one is going to be a cheap fix, but you have a rather large and unusual failure you're dealing with here.
That failure could be putting undue stress on other parts of the engine, causing premature wear to occur.
Best to either take the thing apart, inspect/blueprint the pieces, replace what's out of spec and/or has unusual wear and then put it all back together and reinstall it in the truck.
....or simply replace the whole motor with another one.
Going that route, my vote would be to get a new one (complete with warrenty), but these are rather expensive units, so if you could find a used one with low miles that was in good shape, it might save you a little $$$.
Either way, the proper fix for this isn't going to be inexpensive.
Happy my remanufactured sbc350 was so cheap. 1.5k w/ 4 year warranty unlimited miles.
@@keijimorita1849 I remember when Goodwrench engines could be had for $600 or less. Man, $1500. Times have changed. That's for sure.
@@DeanMk1 That's sweet! 1.5k was the price in 2020.
@@keijimorita1849 $1500 is still not too bad, considering the cost of everything these days....and you got a killer warrenty on top of that.
I'd say you made out. Congrats. -b
@@DeanMk1 Thank you! Sounds & feels great too!
hit it with the tig and send it lol
Buy a Ram next time and you won't have to deal with those pesky Duramax issues...
You'd be better pulling the rods and pistons out, to just check the cylinder walls. Make sure there's no gouges, no scrapes, that there not out of round from smacking around in there. Better to be safe then sorry
I've seen 2 of these broken come thru my buddies shop. I've heard other mechanics say it was from abuse, but if it's on a stock tune, there should be nothing you could do to break a crank. Am I crazy? Also it can be changed without a teardown, but there are some extra things you have to do. Google should be your friend.
yeah the rods will be fine i would get new rod bearings and maybe one new rod for the #1 rod just to be safe
why arent you taking this up with who rebuilt tthe engine? no warranty? full rebuild?
I tried. The fine print in the warranty EXCLUDES broken crankshafts. 😒 Believe me, I’ve gone round and round with them.
@@treeguygrant this is crazy
@@treeguygrant Call a lawyer and get them to provide you with a GM crate motor as compensation. Or just sue them for a boatload of money. They're just assuming you won't do anything and just might fold if pushed against the wall.
How did those ppe manifolds do?
Do you feel like they added power?
Yea! The're awesome. I suggest installing them when the motor is out though. Pain in the butt.
Duracracks
GM quality
So what did you end up doing about it?
Still working on it. Torn down all the accessories now. I'm probably going back with a stock crank.
@@treeguygrant Nice! Was suprirsed that thing was still running the way it did.
That’s not the first one