Hey Grant, I am up in Dallas and I did almost the exact same thing with my motor. Long story as short as I can get it, your crank broke where all the Lb7 cranks break, right at the snout. The Duramax firing order is the culprit and it gets worse with the Hamilton camshaft and bigger injectors/CP3. I came into possesion of a truck that had alot of sentimental value to me 2001 2500hd ext cab 2wd with bad injectors but I knew this truck from the day it left the lot. I had alot of down time during the first year of covid and went freaking crazy on this truck. $18K in motor and $7500 in trans, I went with the Wagler Stage 1 AFO. I did this blindly because I saw no videos or feedback on youtube and I still wanted to be able to use it as a 3/4 ton truck. By changing the firing order the motor revs like a sewing machine, I also went with the fluid damper harmonic balancer (best choice) dual CP3's (S&S super sports) Wagler high pressure oil pump, new bosch injectors with 30% over nozzles, ARP studs, welded water pump, silicone hoses, billet torque convertor, 64mm billet turbo, aftermarket up and down pipes, FASS lift, etc. The truck runs like a sports car but still handles like a truck. I bought a custom 5 tune on the fly from Optimal Welding in Canada too. The truck is too fast it runs like a two stroke dirt bike with a neck pulling power band. On the hwy it is hard to keep it under 90mph, from a dig-boosted launch it roasts the tires through 4th gear, they never catch up to the motor's output until 5th, best runs are rolling at 15-35mph where it will leave a fast camero-challenger-mustang. To really get the traction it needs it would have to be lowered and wide tires put on it, maybe doing a 6spd conversion would let the rpm's come down a bit to cruise at a decent hwy speed and stay out of the "powerband" IDK, but I wish I went with a keyed crank (cam was keyed) wish I went with a T-4 turbo mount and a S366.5mm (went with drop in 64mm) and mostly wish I put the money into a 4wd, I had to install a 3 row aluminum radiator, new 34 row trans cooler, new trans lines, and when I race it, I have a blank nut to keep the fan pulley on and I can take off the clutch fan for track runs. Did i mention that I put all this into a stock short block with 200K miles on it???? no failures and she gets down. Everything bought from the duramax store. Its not my daily or even my number two, just a weekend toy. i have 2 extra motors, tons of nuts and bolts, couple of ficm's, and computers, trans modules, heads, cams, etc if you need anything thats hard to find
@@treeguygrant I had a Mechanic that came recommended from the guys who work for me, he is an old El Salvadorian man named Joaquin. This guy lays everything out like a surgeon. I told him I was hands on and would visit everyday and take pics. My motor was running good when I decided to do the upgrades though. I watched a youtuber throw 600hp plus into a 400k bottom end and beat on it, even after he bent a rod it still ran fast. My truck was babied its whole life and was just a commuter truck so I knew the bottom was good. My stock trans was good until I hit tune 3 and it would slip, so i bought the rebuild kit and billet TQ from The duramax store and had it rebuilt with all the valve body and pump upgrades. It holds all the power now but I had to change the radiator after the trans rebuild, the heat exchanger was clogged with clutch material and there was no way of getting it out, so I put in an all aluminum 3 core and upgraded the tranny cooler at the same time from a 13 row to a 34 row off of amazon, aluminum radiator came from amazon too, no leaks, no problems. I even upgraded the oil cooler to the LML cooler and installed the PPE heat blanket for the firewall. When you add the dual CP3 kit, it helps it pull through redline instead of it falling on its face when the revs hit 3500 and fuel pressure drops to the floor, it was a pain in the ass to install but it made a big difference in keeping the fuel rail pressure good enough to still atomize even at WOT with the bigger injectors. If I had it to do over again I might just install a single 10mm-12mm stroker CP3 because I have thrown the belt a couple of times and it is stretched tight. I went with the ATS dual cp3 kit because you dont have to remove your oil fill tube, with the cheaper kits, you have to install a lower tube because the belt runs right across the front where the tube's cap is. If you have any questions, let me know, I have probably been there and done that.
The crank fracture shows signs that it failed over time, not from a single instance like the water pump change. It has “beach marks” originating from the rod journal fillet. That’s where the crack began. Is the crank a “regrind”? Look up crack failure analysis and you’ll see what I’m talking about. Good luck.
Bro good for you keep it up, u totally got this. Those rods are fine most likely but look at the tops of the pistons to see if the contacted the valves and be sure when u do. Poor mineral spirits down the exhaust ports and intake ports to make sure the valves are not bent and are sealing. You must not be to broke talking about Callie’s crank and alt cam that is some good shit there. Personaly I think u will be fine with just the crank it didn’t seem like you were making serious power but to each is own just remember your doing all yourself and the more u spend and touch the more u have to loose. You look like you’re doing just fine but when it comes time to assembly this is where most everybody has problems. Think about all the time and effort you have in this and the money you’re gonna spend don’t take chances if you don’t have confidence in yourself. You shouldn’t really just throw those pistons back in there you need to at least Dingle berry hone the cylinders and put new rings on and then set ring gaps if you are unfamiliar with what I’m saying just have the machine shop put it together and u put it back in the truck that is a shit ton of work In itself
Hey Grant, I am up in Dallas and I did almost the exact same thing with my motor. Long story as short as I can get it, your crank broke where all the Lb7 cranks break, right at the snout. The Duramax firing order is the culprit and it gets worse with the Hamilton camshaft and bigger injectors/CP3. I came into possesion of a truck that had alot of sentimental value to me 2001 2500hd ext cab 2wd with bad injectors but I knew this truck from the day it left the lot. I had alot of down time during the first year of covid and went freaking crazy on this truck. $18K in motor and $7500 in trans, I went with the Wagler Stage 1 AFO. I did this blindly because I saw no videos or feedback on youtube and I still wanted to be able to use it as a 3/4 ton truck. By changing the firing order the motor revs like a sewing machine, I also went with the fluid damper harmonic balancer (best choice) dual CP3's (S&S super sports) Wagler high pressure oil pump, new bosch injectors with 30% over nozzles, ARP studs, welded water pump, silicone hoses, billet torque convertor, 64mm billet turbo, aftermarket up and down pipes, FASS lift, etc. The truck runs like a sports car but still handles like a truck. I bought a custom 5 tune on the fly from Optimal Welding in Canada too. The truck is too fast it runs like a two stroke dirt bike with a neck pulling power band. On the hwy it is hard to keep it under 90mph, from a dig-boosted launch it roasts the tires through 4th gear, they never catch up to the motor's output until 5th, best runs are rolling at 15-35mph where it will leave a fast camero-challenger-mustang. To really get the traction it needs it would have to be lowered and wide tires put on it, maybe doing a 6spd conversion would let the rpm's come down a bit to cruise at a decent hwy speed and stay out of the "powerband" IDK, but I wish I went with a keyed crank (cam was keyed) wish I went with a T-4 turbo mount and a S366.5mm (went with drop in 64mm) and mostly wish I put the money into a 4wd, I had to install a 3 row aluminum radiator, new 34 row trans cooler, new trans lines, and when I race it, I have a blank nut to keep the fan pulley on and I can take off the clutch fan for track runs. Did i mention that I put all this into a stock short block with 200K miles on it???? no failures and she gets down. Everything bought from the duramax store. Its not my daily or even my number two, just a weekend toy. i have 2 extra motors, tons of nuts and bolts, couple of ficm's, and computers, trans modules, heads, cams, etc if you need anything thats hard to find
Thanks for the feedback. Who built the motor for you? Already have a built RevMax trans.
@@treeguygrant I had a Mechanic that came recommended from the guys who work for me, he is an old El Salvadorian man named Joaquin. This guy lays everything out like a surgeon. I told him I was hands on and would visit everyday and take pics. My motor was running good when I decided to do the upgrades though. I watched a youtuber throw 600hp plus into a 400k bottom end and beat on it, even after he bent a rod it still ran fast. My truck was babied its whole life and was just a commuter truck so I knew the bottom was good. My stock trans was good until I hit tune 3 and it would slip, so i bought the rebuild kit and billet TQ from The duramax store and had it rebuilt with all the valve body and pump upgrades. It holds all the power now but I had to change the radiator after the trans rebuild, the heat exchanger was clogged with clutch material and there was no way of getting it out, so I put in an all aluminum 3 core and upgraded the tranny cooler at the same time from a 13 row to a 34 row off of amazon, aluminum radiator came from amazon too, no leaks, no problems. I even upgraded the oil cooler to the LML cooler and installed the PPE heat blanket for the firewall. When you add the dual CP3 kit, it helps it pull through redline instead of it falling on its face when the revs hit 3500 and fuel pressure drops to the floor, it was a pain in the ass to install but it made a big difference in keeping the fuel rail pressure good enough to still atomize even at WOT with the bigger injectors. If I had it to do over again I might just install a single 10mm-12mm stroker CP3 because I have thrown the belt a couple of times and it is stretched tight. I went with the ATS dual cp3 kit because you dont have to remove your oil fill tube, with the cheaper kits, you have to install a lower tube because the belt runs right across the front where the tube's cap is.
If you have any questions, let me know, I have probably been there and done that.
Bearings look alright
The crank fracture shows signs that it failed over time, not from a single instance like the water pump change. It has “beach marks” originating from the rod journal fillet. That’s where the crack began. Is the crank a “regrind”? Look up crack failure analysis and you’ll see what I’m talking about. Good luck.
Bro good for you keep it up, u totally got this. Those rods are fine most likely but look at the tops of the pistons to see if the contacted the valves and be sure when u do. Poor mineral spirits down the exhaust ports and intake ports to make sure the valves are not bent and are sealing. You must not be to broke talking about Callie’s crank and alt cam that is some good shit there. Personaly I think u will be fine with just the crank it didn’t seem like you were making serious power but to each is own just remember your doing all yourself and the more u spend and touch the more u have to loose. You look like you’re doing just fine but when it comes time to assembly this is where most everybody has problems. Think about all the time and effort you have in this and the money you’re gonna spend don’t take chances if you don’t have confidence in yourself. You shouldn’t really just throw those pistons back in there you need to at least Dingle berry hone the cylinders and put new rings on and then set ring gaps if you are unfamiliar with what I’m saying just have the machine shop put it together and u put it back in the truck that is a shit ton of work In itself
I’m invested at this point. That’s crazy it broke like that.
Why would it even break right there? It seems like every point moving further back on the crank has more and more stress on it.