HEADERS, how to build them big fender well headers!! All ALUMINUM 588
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- čas přidán 14. 01. 2022
- Have you ever wondered if you could build your own exhaust header? There is no "off the shelf" Header for my car, so I decide to build it myself. Follow along and see how I did it. This header is for my ole Hot Rod, she's a 1964 Plymouth Fury that I have owned since high school... 36 years.
These same technics can be applied to any application!
Thanks for watching!
Kevin Griffitts - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Dude ! , those came out awesome. Especially being new to the tig process. Awesome work ! .. man, that B1 Single plane is a MONSTER !! 😳.. The twin Dommy TR is badass too. Really awesome build you have going there. Can't wait to hear it run. 👍
Torquemonster440 thank you sir!! It’s super motivating to get this kind of feedback. Sometimes I get a little disappointed with my slow progress, but I’m hoping it all pays off in the end. Have a great day!
Kevin
@@griffittsgarage Pleas keep moving forward... no joke.. this IS the coolest project I've seen on CZcams. Everyone dreams of building something like this, and sadly it stops at that point.. just a dream. But, to see you actually doing it is super inspiring 👏. I NEED to hear this beast Run. !! I know you'll do it. Just keep choking down this Elephant one bite at a time..lol.. that thought process seems to help me when a project appears overwhelming. Cheers ! 🍻
@@Torquemonster440 that is excellent advice, and I will keep that in mind…
#elephanteater 😎🏁
Very nice work.
Encouraging to say the least.
Patience and determination goes along way.
Great content.
Thank you, EM.
Patience… Something we ran short on in our younger days huh Ed 😊
Thank you for the support Ed, I appreciate that a lot 🙏🏻
Great vid bro! Nice work! 👍🏻
Thanks Joe!
Love the new parts the came in for you Dart!
2022
Great job Kevin, I have tried my efforts before nothing like your mad doctor skills….Wow!
Thanks JMR!
This project was kind of intimidating to be honest. And it’s crazy how long it takes me to learn new things these days 🤓
The car and headers are awesome! I can plan a set with the beat of them, but my old booger welds need some work. Great job explaining materials, showing your process, and editing the video! Most don’t realize what time goes into editing. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Joe i sure appreciate the kind words. I’m such a rookie when it comes to editing and trying to tell a story. Then I end up cutting out so much of my long winded stuff.
The hot rod and Mopar community have been so supportive, it’s kinda inspiring me to keep going.
It’s guys like you Joe, thank you 🙏🏻
Nice job Kev, I'd def say you are indeed a header builder!!!
Keith Anderson maybe a two stripe white belt 😅 but thank you ole friend 👍🏻
Just watched without sound (wife watching a movie). Great job on the headers, I'll re-watch with sound as soon as possible.
Hey, Bobby, did you watch it with sound yet? :)
@@griffittsgarage Yes! just finished watching. Great job on headers. They look very professional. I'll be doing my fender wall headers after the first snow here. I'd like to clean up an area in the shop to set up camera and lighting and start doing some content. That will likely be my first upload.
I am so f’n envious! That was time consuming! Great work!
Hey thanks man! I can’t remember but I think it took about a month for me to figure those out. Gave me a lot of appreciation for the craftsman that build them all the time. Thanks as always I appreciate your comments.
Kevin
That is a good wife, never let her go !!!!
I don’t know how I got so lucky! She’s a keeper ❤️
The diffuser is a good idea. Jarden used to call them an airfoil. It became the thing that all quality headers used.
Beautiful craftsmanship
Thank you Patrick! And thanks for watching too!
Now I know how! I have a very large BR motor with automatic trans in a 63 half ton short bed pickup. There are no headers for this combination. Especially with the motor moved back a foot. Thanks for the tips and the awesome video!
Absolutely Frank! Thanks for the feedback. Sounds like you have a really cool project yourself, gotta love a set back big block 🏁
Awesome work!
Nice skills ......it's going to be a beast .
Kerry, thank you... that was a HUGE thing to get crossed off my list! Have to admit, it was a bit intimidating...
Dude your my hero . I also am building a B1 572 bill
Mitchel aluminum block and I will make some videos too ! Your inspiration!
What…!
There’s two of us… no way 🤯
Awesome to here, I just subscribed to your channel as well. Thanks for the kind words.
Looking forward to your future posts.
Kevin
Pretty wicked!
Thank you!
Boy my home made headers are so much like yours I can relate big time.I use 2 1/4" for my blown engine and formed the tube to the flange with a vise and hammer so no mine are not pretty.I can take my headers out with only removing the valve covers.I have ceramic around the master cylinder for heat.
Nice Michael!
Ya I made that quick jig with the cut out port windows that I bolted to my welding bench and to the header flange. I worked perfect while I knocked the corners in tight with a hammer and punch.
Thanks for watching Michael
Nice work. Not easy getting the snakes to route through.
If you havent I would recommend reading the posts by Calvin Elston on the Speed Talk forum. He seem to have some ideas that most find baffling. But hes one of the best exhaust guys in the US I think. What hes talking about is some 30 years of racing development that he can share now since hes retirering.
He uses Burns Stainless program for the overall system length and size. But then apply his own touch.
I think youll find it all a fascinating read.
I will check it out thank you. I have been following Burns stainless since the early 90s when they were specializing in the Winston Cup cars and NHRA dragracing. It’s fascinating stuff.
@@griffittsgarage his posts are spread over a few threads and go back to 2007. But even being so old I havent heard anyone talk about his work before.
But Im new to this and live in Sweden so 🤷♂️
NICE WORK !!
Thanks Scott, I really appreciate it man! What are you working on this weekend?
@@griffittsgarage trying to get the basement cleaned up, so I can work in the house on stuff. ( Ohio cold )..
@@scottstump9912 I feel ya brotha!
Stay warm
Awesome work on those headers! Had to subscribe. 👍
Thank you my Brotha, I really appreciate it. I’m trying to make a piston video right now. Have a great day
Like the traveling willbarries sound track and of course that bad to the bone engine and car excellent job on the headers and well the everything! I would love a set of headers with a similar look for my 73 charger 440 and that B1 head, and single carb intake, just looks awesome 👍
Thanks Dina! It’s motivating to get this kind of feedback! I’m working on a custom piston for it right now. I’ll get a new video together soon.
@@griffittsgarage you deserve positive vibes your inspiring people that have been waiting to finish up there dream cars that it's not impossible to fabricate awesome one of parts, you have some really cool concepts and the skills to get er done
Just subbed. I think this is the route I'm going to have to take to get BBF Fenderwell Headers for this '58 Ford Fairlane I'm trying to get ready for the No Name Nationals in MO. Great video, and glad I found your Channel man.
BareRose excellent! Thank you for subscribing. I dig them big block Fords. Sounds like a really cool project 😎🏁
Mickey Thompson once designed a "Super Scavenger" header where the headers were not designed into a single common single collector, but went into a straight line as possible with each individual header made the exact same length and extended what they may be it one inch, two inch, six inch longer or more with a lakester type pipe or tubing into one large tubing say four or five inches in diameter. It worked smoother, better flowing, unfortunately he was passed away in 1988. Richard Petty built these lakester style headers in NASCAR racing in the late 1960's and 70's.
Ya Ron!
I remember seeing guys build them like that too.
We had a local guy here in town that always ran them on their big block Chevy super modified circle track car.
Thanks for sharing!
Kevin
@@griffittsgarage Thanks!!!
Great work you inspired me to build my headers thank's,B1
Wow that’s way cool Alex!! Thanks for sharing!!
@@griffittsgarage why did you decide to go step header?cuz room or like Venturi flow like a carburetor of course not under vacuum but pressure?
@@alexbarianos5472 yes. I figured the smaller primary tube diameter would give just a little better wave scavenging earlier in the torque curve. Just kind of a theory that I’ve thought about over the years.
@@griffittsgarage I know primary size is critical took my motor to koffle's to have dyno with 21/8 primarys 817 went to 23/8 jump to 928hp! Koffel knew it the hole time and proved me wrong!
@@alexbarianos5472 ya, those guys have been at it a long time with these setups! Good to know.
I may have been a little conservative on my primary tube diameter choice 🤔
The Fury is sort of a streetcar first, operating at 5000’ above sea level in a 3600 lb with 4” exhaust to the rear axle.
I’m really interested in your combination 👍🏻
You got my attention, I subscribed and rang the bell, I'll be following along, wishing you well in this project, looking good!
Thanks Bobby! I need to get back on it and make some more videos.
Thank you for subscribing 🙏🏻
@@griffittsgarage Thank you for the content, BTW the quality of video and editing are really good too. Your doing the lifting, subscribing is the easy part.
Another hit Kevin. Love it. Makes me want to build my own headers. If you ever see me do a video like it’s because you inspired me. How close to all the headers tubes have to be to each other in length? Can they be a lot different or should they be as close as possible.
I think as close as possible (with in reason)
It’s about timing the pulse wave scavenging… there’s a million variables, but when you get it right it’s magic.
Think 500” pro stock, they have it figured out.
Can’t wait to make them track tuning videos… one day Jonny Mopar!
Thanks for the inspiration as well 🙏🏻✌🏻
@@griffittsgarage Okay. After the TTI
Debacle there’s some things I’d like to try. My Dad used to fly U control air planes, basically an are plane on a string you fly in a circle. They have little 1 cylinder 2 stroke engines in them. I remember my Dad adjusting the exhaust pipe length, not sure if that was for tuning or took into account weather /air conditions but you could hear the plane transition once the plane got going fast enough, then it would come on the pipe, go high pitch and was booking. 200mph or so.
@@JonnyMopar Yep, similar concept. Dude I remember those planes!
@@griffittsgarage They’re crazy fast. It seems to be a fading hobby.
For drag racing, the chassis will profit from transferring almost 100 percent of the weight to the rear tires on launch, along with the flat camber provided by a DeDion rear end or solid axle.
If the car has a high enough center of gravity that it pulls the front wheels off the ground, then your best bet is to set up the car so the front tires are JUST skimming the pavement on launch, according to Bob Glidden.
If the car's cg is not high enough to cause it to rotate to the back tires on launch, then anything that raises the center of gravity of the car can be used, preferably that does not add weight. Elevating the entire car like a gasser is one method. Just jacking up the back end is another method. All that matters in relation to center of gravity is where in space that center of gravity is.
If you find 55 percent of weight on front wheels and 45 percent on rear, then raising the front end will shift the center of gravity higher than raising the rear end, but is worse for air drag.
A jacked-up rear end helps the center of gravity get higher AND reduces air drag, AND it looks WAY cooler!
Your car is not pivoting on the axle centerline of the rear axle, BTW, it is pivoting over the rear tire contact patch, so taller rear tires will not make it harder to do a wheelstand.
The "squat" people say is wonderful for the rear suspension when the car launches is an old wive's tale. ANY, and I mean ANY lowering of the front or rear end of the car makes it HARDER to transfer weight to the rear wheels, not EASIER, though it may look super-cool.
The drag springs for the Dodge Demon rear axle are HARDER than the stock Hellcat springs, not softer. Any energy your car is wasting squashing springs is energy it should have been using to plant the rear tires harder. Why do you think Top Fuelers have a solidly mounted rear axle?
You want rear springs hard, front springs set to launch the front part of the car as high as is necessary to raise the cg high enough to not break traction with the rear tires. Hence the classic shock absorber settings of 90 percent compression damping but 10 percent rebound damping to encourage it to throw the front end in the air on launch.
One reason a full-blown Formula One car only gets 9 second quarter mile times is it has a super-low center of gravity and almost NO weight shift on launch. It is the opposite of what is needed to maximize rear-wheel traction. It should be doing 7's or 6's with that power and 1300 pound weight.
Having placed your engine as far back as you can get it, you can then alter the wheelbase if you want to push front wheels further forward and rear wheels also further forward, like an old F/X car, then both will help the rear tires carry more of the weight AND move car's center of gravity further towards the rear tire contact patch.
With stock wheel placement, there are still things you can do. A lighter hood is good, BUT, you are better served by taking weight off the car BELOW the center of gravity and leaving the high-mounted weight in place, if you are sufficiently fanatical about engineering to do so. The roof is the last place you want to reduce weight, as it helps pivot the car rearward on launch.
The goal is to have the front tires just skimming the pavement on Launch, JUST skimming, but not airborne for no steering.
If there is no minimum weight limit, then you can really go to town on weight removal. Carbon fiber wheels and brake rotors, (Ceikas) are available, but are pretty pricey. A custom-made replica of the Mopar Dana 60 rear end with an aluminum center section and titanium tubes as Mopar used back in the glory days, painted all black for stealth.
Carbon fiber driveshafts are brittle and unnecessary, in my opinion.
We are rapidly approaching the end of 2022.
KR… you Sir are the reining heavy weight champ in the comment department!
I feel honored that a person of your technical level would take the time to watch my videos.
A couple beers and we could chat endlessly.
I like the way you think.
Kevin 🙏🏻
@@griffittsgarage Well thank you!
Road racing will demand a far different setup than drag racing. With road racing:
A) lower the car far enough that you hit the skid plates at least once per lap. There is no other way to prove you have gotten the car low enough. Even F1 teams do this, I noticed.
B) Find a junked Challenger and take the entire suspension off of it including the IRS. Then put in adjustable links. Raise the differential in the car to make the angle to the wheels from differential of the half-shafts close to level. They aren't U-joints, don't need minimum angle, they can be flat. you will need a CV driveshaft, too to ensure no problems with required minimum angle of U-joints, like the Redeye-spec shafts from Chrysler.
C) Stupid levels of negative camber and/or camber gain are going to be your friend.
D) TAll tire sidewalls gives you more traction and less sensitivity to perfect camber settings. Avoid the 30-series tires or whatever
E) Straight up racing slicks for road racing will make tons of difference. Worth the money compared to street tires.
F) A FLIR camera that allows you to examine hot regions of the tires can help you find hot setup for that track. If the tires are really hot on outside edges, you may have too little negative camber or too much toe-in. A point-and-shoot laser-dot temperature gauge will do instead of a FLIR camera. If the tires are hot on both inside and outside edges, you may have too little air pressure in tires.
G) Stiffer springs make the shocks do less work
H) set up suspension alignment with your weight in weight plates in driver's seat and on floor of driver's spot.
I) remember tough (possibly T1 steel) skid plates on four corners of car or wherever low spots are. Don't want to sand your chassis away.
J) The laps you spend gathering car setup data are well worth the time spent at track in advance of the event where you lap the Ferraris.
K) can your carbs handle lateral g's without starving one cylinder or more?
This is the best comment I’ve ever seen 🙏🏻
We share a common mindset my friend!
My mind swirls constantly of these different set up topics!
Thank you for taking the time to write all this down, and thank you for watching 🙏🏻
Kevin
Universe😉
am I speakin your language there? ;) Thanks for watching :)
Kevin...those look to be mild steel tubing, but you use a tig process for welding did you have to purge the tubing doing welding process.? You've pickup that tig welding process well.
.
Mornin Kerry.
Yes, they are mild steel. The Tig welding has been something I’ve wanted to learn forever! I still have a lot to learn. I showed the best welds for the video 🤣
From what I heard, stainless tubing has to be back purged, but mild steel does not.
Learning to Tig weld has me wanting to make more things out of aluminum and chromoly though.
Always appreciate you feedback Kerry 🙏🏻
What about having an altered front suspension moving forward on the wheelbase about 6 or 7 inches where the engine stays the same ???
I like ideas like this Ron, It leads to interesting projects. Altered wheelbase cars we’re really popular in the 60s. I like the profile of these cars when the wheel base is left in the factory position. Also I like the idea of moving the engine closer to the rear wheels to help with weight transfer.
Thanks for stopping in and participating Ron. 🙏🏻
Kevin
Nice work Kevin, will there by any exhaust at all on the car?
Yes. It will have exhaust running down each side. Last time around I had two 4" x 16" race bullets welded end to end, down each side. I might try that old system first, but I think it will need something a little more creative this time around.
BTW, how's the CUDA coming along?
@@griffittsgarage Its good, in hibernation right now. Have some small projects over the winter and going to make this thing handle much better come spring!
@@griffittsgarage Now if you make side pipes will you cover them with a SS shield like on the old Corvettes?
This awesome! Say me please what size your front tyre's?
Hi Rusty, thank you!
Currently I have a 27.5x4.5x15 Micky Thompson on the front of it. Thanks for the comment.
Kevin
@@griffittsgarage thank you very much!
I've a 65 belvedere wagon. Do you sell these with installation instructions?❤
No, I sure don’t.
I would like to make some more. I’m just too busy with the rest of the project.
A 65 wagon is a beautiful car!!
Thanks for watching
Kevin
Would a heat shield be helpful underneath your master cylinder?
100%
I’m going to wrap the headers and fab up a reall cool looking heat shield 👍🏻
Thanks for watching :)
Just think if you blew the gasket on #7 tube and all the exh went on the MC.I know you will do good work Kev.
@@michaelclanton1152 exactly!
Thank you for your confidence Mike
Make some more videos and people will look at them
I hear ya Thomas! I have a few different videos in the works right now. I’ll get better at this 😬
Thanks for watching 🙏🏻
obscene..........
Tom, what do you mean by obscene?
Kevin