2:09 overbleeding isn't a bad thing. It's what you have to do when the pads wear down bc the lever reservoir is too small to compensate. I bleed my brakes w the pads in all the time and never contaminate my brakes but that's because I just do a quick bleed at the lever w the cup. But yes if you are doing a bleed w the caliper bleed valve the pads should be removed and stored away to avoid contamination.
"bad" is certainly relative and I absolutely understand what you are saying. As a full-time mechanic, I see a ton of people who bring their bike in for new pads and someone had overbled them previously. This causes additional work for us and additional expense for the customer. In our shop, we do not overbleed brakes for this reason. If the brakes are squishy due to worn pads, we recommend to change the pads generally. (of course there are exceptions to every rule so don't take this as gospel). As a home mechanic, if you choose to overbleed your brakes to get a little more out of the pads, excellend! Also, I always make a big deal about taking the pads into another room, or another house, or another time zone because it is almost inevitable that I contaminate them somehow. I think it's gremlins!
I replaced my calipers with 4 piston but my brakes are spongey not matter how many times I bleed them. It’s almost likes there not enough fluid because the levers pull into the bar with very little force.
What model numbers are the levers and calipers and brake hose? There may (unlikely) be a compatibility issue. There could be a stubborn pocket of air in the caliper. With the lever closed off, and the syringe on the caliper, and the caliper high, push some fluid in with a little pressure and then let it back out. If there is air, the pressure will compress it and allow more fluid in, when you release, the air will be forced into the syringe. This is a form of burping the brakes.
Brilliant.... once again you kicked arse and explained everything wonderfully. One quick question most everyone on CZcams doing hydraulics tend to keep flicking the lever for air bubbles to escape, I noticed you didn't do that. Is that a necessary step, or can I just do what you did and everything will be sorted? Cheers mate.
According to Shimano, Once it comes out, you will have limited success with putting it back in. The most important part is that you don't use any hard tools to press the ceramic piston. it is super weak and will chip easily even with a tire lever.
a bleed will definitely not fix it. Is it coming out the pistons or the main body of the caliper? Check that the T30 bolts are tightened appropriately.
Any mineral oil will do ? No , no and NO! People put Citroen or other mineral oil in this brakes and the seals wear off for month or so ... Please do not put ANY mineral oil in shimano new brakes! Use only shimano RED oil , do not put cheap shit in your brakes :)
@@laurynasjagelo5075 based on 7 broken MT520 brakes in for 7-8 months in local bikeshop .. My brakes (also mt520) are perfect on just shimano oil ... Maybe they use now diffrent soft seals ? IDK ...
Well, the thing is trans only ATF wears thin seals out and destroys the brakes...finer oil like powersteering ATF will sure work, but dont put cheap shit in your brakes, use Liqui-moly or other premium brands
Thanks, Richard. I’m getting ready to install a pair of MT-BR520 calipers, and your video was clear, concise, and helpful. 👍
2:09 overbleeding isn't a bad thing. It's what you have to do when the pads wear down bc the lever reservoir is too small to compensate.
I bleed my brakes w the pads in all the time and never contaminate my brakes but that's because I just do a quick bleed at the lever w the cup. But yes if you are doing a bleed w the caliper bleed valve the pads should be removed and stored away to avoid contamination.
"bad" is certainly relative and I absolutely understand what you are saying. As a full-time mechanic, I see a ton of people who bring their bike in for new pads and someone had overbled them previously. This causes additional work for us and additional expense for the customer. In our shop, we do not overbleed brakes for this reason. If the brakes are squishy due to worn pads, we recommend to change the pads generally. (of course there are exceptions to every rule so don't take this as gospel). As a home mechanic, if you choose to overbleed your brakes to get a little more out of the pads, excellend!
Also, I always make a big deal about taking the pads into another room, or another house, or another time zone because it is almost inevitable that I contaminate them somehow. I think it's gremlins!
Very nice and clear video mate just done my front brake bleed 👍❤️
That is a great video - so well explained and easy to understand! Thank you.
Thanks for the help Richard!! Love, JJ
Rock on!
I replaced my calipers with 4 piston but my brakes are spongey not matter how many times I bleed them. It’s almost likes there not enough fluid because the levers pull into the bar with very little force.
What model numbers are the levers and calipers and brake hose? There may (unlikely) be a compatibility issue. There could be a stubborn pocket of air in the caliper. With the lever closed off, and the syringe on the caliper, and the caliper high, push some fluid in with a little pressure and then let it back out. If there is air, the pressure will compress it and allow more fluid in, when you release, the air will be forced into the syringe. This is a form of burping the brakes.
Just about to fit my 520s after juicy 7s was standard
Why have you got conical washers on rear but not on the front. Thanks..great video
Excellent video!
Very clear and concise. Great video, thx.
Awesome, nice one chief very helpful! 🤙
Brilliant.... once again you kicked arse and explained everything wonderfully. One quick question most everyone on CZcams doing hydraulics tend to keep flicking the lever for air bubbles to escape, I noticed you didn't do that. Is that a necessary step, or can I just do what you did and everything will be sorted? Cheers mate.
It's worth doing. In this case, there were no performance issues caused by bubbles so I wasn't too worried about knocking any stubborn bubbles loose.
@@richardsbikeshop5268 Excellent, thanks.
That Spacer called bleed block.😉
Shimano Brake caliper piston popped out. How do I get it back in? :
According to Shimano, Once it comes out, you will have limited success with putting it back in. The most important part is that you don't use any hard tools to press the ceramic piston. it is super weak and will chip easily even with a tire lever.
my mt500 caliper loses oil at the caliper. You think its ready to throw out or a bleed can fix it? thx
a bleed will definitely not fix it. Is it coming out the pistons or the main body of the caliper? Check that the T30 bolts are tightened appropriately.
had that problem, it was the cable end messed up, if I remeber correctly, quik fix at a bike shop
Дякую.Ukrainian
Merica
Home of the free, land of the brake bleeds.
Any mineral oil will do ? No , no and NO! People put Citroen or other mineral oil in this brakes and the seals wear off for month or so ... Please do not put ANY mineral oil in shimano new brakes! Use only shimano RED oil , do not put cheap shit in your brakes :)
based on what? Been using random mineral oils for ages, never an issue.
@@laurynasjagelo5075 based on 7 broken MT520 brakes in for 7-8 months in local bikeshop .. My brakes (also mt520) are perfect on just shimano oil ... Maybe they use now diffrent soft seals ? IDK ...
Well, the thing is trans only ATF wears thin seals out and destroys the brakes...finer oil like powersteering ATF will sure work, but dont put cheap shit in your brakes, use Liqui-moly or other premium brands