How To Bleed Hydraulic Disc Brakes + Newbie Mistakes. Shimano Deore, SLX, XT, XTR.
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- čas přidán 29. 11. 2018
- Nice variety of bleeding kits you need for the job: amzn.to/2zD4ULY
Full service - Shimano XT M8000 rear derailleur:
• Full Service! Shimano ...
How to service a mechanical dropper post:
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Here's the manual from Shimano:
si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-BR00...
Where to buy bike products :
amzn.to/31T8kbO Bicycle hydraulic brake repair kit
amzn.to/3oEFjdo Shimano SLX hydraulic brakes
amzn.to/3e7Z9cl Shimano XT hydraulic brakes
amzn.to/35LhqZ7 Shimano XTR hydraulic brakes - Jak na to + styl
Nice variety of bleeding kits you need for the job: amzn.to/2zD4ULY
Have that same kit! 👍🏻
This is the worst brake bleed technique I've ever seen. You have no idea what you're doing.
I followed your advice and used a credit card. I cut it into pieces then used it to spread the pistons. I am now stranded here in the gas station, my one and only credit card is in pieces.
Oh man, sorry to hear this. You should've just wadded up your last dollar bills, then pay for the gas with mineral oil covered bills!!
I don't have the tool to push the brake pistons. I just use a wooden spatula from the kitchen. Works very well, no cost.
Haha i used this method too!
Wood is actually ideal for this purpose. It has a little more give than plastic.
Be carefull if u have ceramic pistons,im brakes my pistons.
I just tried this method today on my first bleed ever. It worked perfectly! My brakes never felt better. This method makes much more sense to me then using a plastic bag. It is cleaner and easier.
Before removing the funnel you could instead place the pads and the wheel and start pumping the lever, so it will draw fluid into the system to get the pads in a comfortable position ;)
Instructions worked a charm - some slight tapping of hoses, break cylinder housing and break grips. They're better than new now and it was literally a three minute job. Thanks!
Thanks for the good clear video. There are many videos on the subject but your is very clear and cam is good positioned to show the steps. Perfect. Well done!
I do my 7000s the exact same way as you. I also never do the "hold the lever while quickly loosening and tightening the caliper's bleed port thing" either. The only thing I add is at the end, I flick the lever over and over before removing the funnel and closing the system..... I tilt the bike in the stand (with the front end high) to the left and the right to get the reservoir hole in the lever I'm working on to be at the highest point in the system, and then while flicking the lever and the funnel still attached, I always get 1 or 2 more good bubbles out.... Very good video, and the best I've seen regarding Shimano bleeding!
Great explanation, I always like your videos, they are in details, golden nuggets, and I see the passion. Thanks for sharing!!! All the best from Ireland!!! : )
It worked for me. Thank you for sharing. It gave me enough confidence to do it myself. And now my brakes are excelent again. ( You must know that I am the one who always have two or three screws leftover) .
Great guide. I made a lot of the mistakes you mentioned when I tried it for the first time last week.
Hi, i'm from Brazil. This is the best video about bleed caliper. 🤘
This is a great tutorial. Other tutorials wanted you to pumping the brakes and lock/unlock the caliper nut which is not practical with 1 person for the rear brake. This was way simpler and just as effective! Also great to see how much air was in there as you draw back the syringe!
Thanks Danny... super helpful as I'm upgrading to hydraulic over the winter... best wishes DD.... Jon
Love the details of your instructions...
You can remove the seal from brake. You have the same seal on the funnel.
great tutorial, have a good idea of what im doing now. keep up the good work.
Good tip on tilting the bike for the rear brake. On Magura brakes I also will close off the master cylinder, install the pads and push more oil against a spare rotor setting the pads. This is necessary because on Magura brakes you will always lose some fluid on removal of the syringe. I think that Shimano brakes are the easiest to bleed. I am committed to Magura as all my bikes use them, but they have their quirks for bleeding.
Great tutorial! Much appreciated!
Very well explained, Thank you!
Awesome video, you rock, thanks for your teaching
Awesome.. best ive watched so far
Great video, nice and easy explanation of how to bleed brakes.
sharp eye!
Thanks for the tutorial, i have a Merida One-Sixty [ 160 ] 600, model 2018, that have the same brakes
I've bled my brakes once, when I built my bike this summer. Which meant that I started from a completely empty system. After the first bleeding, nothing at all happened, the brake levers went all the way to the handlebar without resistance. I bled it again, and now there was a tiny bit of resistance when I squeezed the lever almost all the way, which made me think that it actually worked. Bleed again and again, and after about six attempts, the rear brake worked well. After that I installed and bled the front brake, that was really much easier, I was almost satisfied after the first bleed. Two more bleeds and I decided it was good enough.
Great video. Just how I now do it. So easy
its one of the best videos of cthis cuestion , good video and expleneishon
U work like a dokor!u are profesional man 👍
Good job😎hello from Bucharest România 🇧🇪
The section of opening and closing the outlet valve is technically to remove any bubbles from the section between the outlet valves and the pistons. The pushing and pulling you did does the same thing and is fine for small volume hydraulic systems
However, after you closed the outlet on the caliper, you should squeeze the handle several times (hard) to get the remaining air out of the brake lever outlet (technically section between the lever hydraulic piston and the brake lever outlet) before closing the brake lever outlet.
Not doing so shouldn't have too much impact though considering you already pushed and pulled on the whole system several times.
You don’t pull the old fluid back. All you’ve done there by the push/pull method is mix old and new fluids.
All he did was mix old and new fluids whilst removing air from the system which is fine if the old oil is in good condition. Some people like to make the job harder and waste money by getting rid of old oil that still works perfectly and then replace it with new oil which works perfectly or unintentionally get incompatible new oil which I have no issue with except for when they share their money wasting technique with others so they can "help" more people waste money and time in their garage or even at their local hospital.
Thanks for the video, I have the exact same brakes!
Thank you so much 🙏🏼 best tutorial
Ah man that brake job just turned into my most hated maintenance chore.
Thanks for the tips!!
Very nice video informative thankyou👍 but what kind of bike stand are you using at 1:15 ? My ebike is a bit heavy im looking for a good stand to hold a nice weight
thanks for the tutorial.. good tips
Love your videos. I just got myself 1x11 slx, xt mix. Thinking about putting it by myself but haven't done that ever. Could you do video on that topic, mounting gruop for begginers.
Nice video, thanks a look ! May I ask you what camera are you using to record your videos ?
so easy! Thank you!
Your bleed block is in backwards and you want the o-ring to come out with the screw. You also didn't burp the lever.
Thank you, that odd advice was buggin' me!
Shimanos (from my experience) dont even need a full bleeding procedure, just put the funner on the lever, give it some fluid pump the luver AND ITS DONE
WoD STALKER Same here... I only do a full bleed when flushing it it with new fluid once in a year. Other than that just do the ‘mini bleed’.
Any adjustment to Reach and Free Stroke before bleeding process?
Very Good! Like it!!
Awesome thank you!
Its help people how to bleed..thank for this video you shared...
My eyes were bleeding while I was looking at the pushing and pulling. He never removed the old colourless, used, bad brake fluid. He just diluted the old fluid in new fluid. A professional would naturally remove the old fluid first.
Exactly
@Bruco 27 true. Thats why it is good that people point out when someone does something strange. So that the person watching does not do the same mistakes.
Great video. Danke.
Can i ask if what is the problem if your lever is something hard to press... im using shimano mt200 breaks
didn't clean the pistons before pushing them back into the seals. Nice ^^
yes, that was painful. I do not recommend anyone to do like him. And another with a time the oil gets dirty, that sucking and pushing there keeps the oil dirty. I honestly found this type of "bleed" very lazy.
I lost my brake rubber cap somehow... So im wondering can I ride without it or i have to visit my local bike shop. Thank you.
I just let new oil drain from the lever down , old oil was black , drained till i see new red oil coming out , closed the nipple , now the brake feels better than new . I intended to drain then push new oil up from bottom to top , but felt good just drained out 🤘
My thoughts exactly. Gravity is your friend
But i did not see you remove the old oil!
5:02 sorry, but thats wrong. It HAS to Come Out. The funnel has the same seal so temporary replace the screw's sealing
Totally agree
@@wodstalker2819 i also wouldnt flush the old fluid back into the hose...
You need to remove the o ring off the bleed port on the lever
Yes, keep the original O-ring on the screw when you remove it. You don't want to have two O-rings stacked when the funnel is attached.
Also, check that the funnel's O-ring stays with the funnel when it is removed at the end.
This is a monumental pain in the ass. I regularly bleed the front/rear/clutch on my Gold Wing using a device called "Speed Bleeder", it is a bleed nipple with a check-valve that replaces each stock bleed nipple (7 for brakes and two clutch). . Makes bleeding 10x easier.
Excellent, I know what to do. Bot don't know what not to do.
I don't need to bleed my brakes because i have cable operated ones! very reliable.
To eliminate the slop in the lever due to the pad being worn why not; close the screw at the caliper, remove syringe, wipe caliper, reinstall pads, reinstall tire and rotor, pump brake several times with rotor in place, then finally remove funnel and cap?
This would set the pads fully against the rotor, not what you want.
Thank you for your detailed demonstration. I only wonder about those brakepads, why they get destroyed by some drops of oil? I mean why not just wash them under hot water, or spray them with brake cleaner, or de-greaser? What is making them that sensitive?
The oil absorbs into the pads and just wrecks them
They are designed to be as fictitious as possible so ANY contaminants (even the oils from your fingers), once on the pads, will ruin them
Trust me I have experience with both mineral oil and just touching them; It is quite amazing how much they _don't_ work once contaminated. The breaks become almost useless
Yes. I've now bought new pads and they're very responsive. I threw my old ones away.
Dude, your content is always amazing ! Omg, you're riding a Merida, I wanted that bike and ended up with what I could get out here (CA)- Bulls (Evo AM4). How much does that thing weigh ?
Could you please cover the most effective ways to drop the weight of your mtb such as going tubeless (is it worth it ?)
1. going tubeless(totally worth it, tubeless converting kits on sale costs 30$). saves 200+ grams.
2. removing front derailleur and converting to 1xN system from 2x/3x. saves up to 0.5 kg, narrow/wide single chain star costs around 40$.
3. replacing your groupset to higher tier.(costs alot, better to buy new bike).
4. changing your alloy parts to carbon(stem, seatpost, bar). also is not a cheap upgrade, makes sanse if only you are racing.
I use LHM+ because it has similar specs and it's much cheaper than shimano mineral oil. And it's green as my bike_))
Using FEBI 06162 in my Shimano ZEE brakes. Paid 17$ for 2L. Does the LHM+ feel/perform any different than the Shimano branded oil?
I always use new pads for the final step.
I have a doubt. I´ve seen plenty video of shimano bleeding. But I´m not sure if doing it UP (pushing the new oil from the caliper to the levers) or DOWN (adding new oil to the funel, and pulling the old oil wit the sirynge). Personally I think that pushin the oil from caliper to the funnel, you push the dirt to the main cilinder at levers. I have a pair of XTR M9000 useless now, beause the main cilinder. And i´ve seen some m8000 stop working beacuse the dirt, and damage piston. (the dirty piston has scratched the main cilinder).
they do show this to demage your brakes, and buy new brakes for sure ...
how are you getting dirt into a sealed system lol
i cut up an old driver's license card w/ duct tape until it's 10mm (.393 inches) thick to make my bleed block
Nice bike
could you do a video how to repair minor cuts and abrasions to leather bicycle saddles?
band-aid with neosporin
for serious cuts - suture :)
Easy. Buy a new bike. : )
I just watched the part where you removed the pads. It appears they have uneven wear. To me this means the placement of the brake is improper and part of the pads aren't contacting the rotor. I could be wrong -they could just be covered in particles
His pistons are dirty
Can I use Maxima Mineral Brake Oil on my Shimano brakes? If yes, can it be mixed with Shimano mineral oil or should the existing oil be flushed out first?
You can use different brands, yes. As long as you keep mineral oil when this was inside the brankeline previous. I would not mix different brands of oil; the viscosity can be different and thats not ideal. Change the brand: better push the old oil out of the brankehose completely and fill up with yor other brand.
i have old deore brakes, is it possible to upgrade only the levers to 2020 model but cable hose and calipers will retain?
thanks you so much
Denz Darryl Dacones depends on the hose type
I was doing it wrong no wonder it still didnt work. Thanks
If you spill oil on pads or the rotor: Clean it with some n-Heptane.
mooie fiets !!!!
So I applied the break to check the pistons moving after removing the bleeding block, before putting back the pads. It doesn't seem to have caused any problems - I pushed the pistons back with a scissor. Do you think I need to bleed again or nothing to worry about?
Que bike e essa.
My brakes don't have a "bleeding nipple" - literally a screw (like the ones on the top / levers) and i think when i take the tube out to put the screw in, air gets in
Take the bottom one out first. fluid won't get out because it's vacuum. Then attach the pump with new fluid to the bottom. and then you can do the top. after you are done, take off the pump on the bottom first but make sure it's vacuum again by closing the circuit from the top. and close it. then close up the top. in this way you will spill the least and if you do, remember to clean it really good.
At my work they don't use a cup but 2 syringes. because if you do it will always be vacuum so if the oil is really dirty you can just pump 1 syringe full of dirty oil and then empty it, put new oil in the other syringe and pump it in again (always from bottom to top).
An easier way to get the air out without all this tooling or removing the pads is to top off the mineral oil. leave the bleed crew open, press the brake level and attach it pressed with tape or a rubber band. Leave it overnight. The air bubbles will rise up. close your bleed screw and it should be fine :)
3:00 Nooooooo, clean the seals first!!! You’re pushing dirt inside your caliper...
I always have trouble tightening the screws ... Daily I work in the naval industry, my hand is "setted up" about a tightening force between 80-300 Nm . During the season, I working on weekends as SPEEDWAY mechanic , where I use quite high forces. What forces should I use for the hydraulic brakes of the MTB ? Thanks !
pad bolt is 2-4Nm, caliper fixing bolts 6-8Nm, lever clamp is 6-8Nm, centerlock rotors are 40Nm, bleed screw is 4-6 Nm, 8mm connector bolt is 5-7Nm, 3mm banjo connector is 5-7Nm, 4mm banjo connector is 8-10 Nm, funnel is only 0.50-1Nm, six-bolt rotors are 2-4Nm. Maybe 6Nm some brands.
@@thelawnet Thank you and I am grateful for your reply
@@ionbuglea596 You can get the tech manuals, which include forces, from si.shimano.com
@@EditioCastigata Thanks !
Have never bled Bike brakes but I intend to soon on my new slx system. I have however bled plenty of vehicle brakes. Some of the principles of bleeding seem to be a bit backwards here. Surely new fluid should be introduced to the top and pushed out through the caliper end and then pinched off when the new bubblefree fluid comes through? Feel free to correct me anyone
there are multiple ways to bleed those brakes. You can bleed them as shown in the video or you can also fill the funnel at the top, attach a hose and a plastic bag to the caliper and wait for the oil to come down, you can also fill the funnel at the top and pull the liquid from the caliper with the syringe... All of them will work
My biggest and most annoying part of a bleed is always having the stupid hose slip off the caliper bleed nipple while injecting oil inside, I need a smaller rubber tube to fit the nipple tighter around the lip so it won't slip off. I always end up making a mess...
ziptie or a breadbag twist wire work well
What do you do with the oil after you have finished bleeding your brakes? Do you throw it away or you can reuse it again?
Store it in a jar, and use it to oil some old machines, like a sewing machine.
@@EditioCastigata Good for quick exterior lube of fork seals, just one or two drops for each fork leg. Pump the fork a few times and it will also draw out some dirt. Wipe off and ride with a smoother fork.
Is there a good reason you put your 180mm post mount adapter upside down?
In video Is it bad ! si.shimano.com/pdfs/si/SI-0146A-000-00-ENG.pdf
Hi and thank you so much for showing the process, I have a Q please, can I use DOT4, is it ok? , I hope so really.
No Shimano only use mineral oil.
Power steering fluid might be a closer match.
Ok thank you so much guys but the fluid itself is for hydraulic brake and it’s DOT4, I think it’s ok why not ?
@@othmanalkhayat9724 Yes, but it is a bit far from what you would call an oil, and it has some dont's you wouldn't like in a system designed for hydraulic oil (mainly because it absorbs water and it seems to accelerate corrosion). Red power steering fluid seems pretty oily, and it works as a hydraulic fluid under pressure. And it's red... (:
No need for a bleeding block: Fit one or two business cards between the pads and a new rotor (new ≈ 1.72mm).
Hi, can you tell me something about deore and slx brakes? Which one would you recommend to me? I am not pro rider, I don't take part in any competition, I just love riding mtb. I need to say I ride some pretty rough and long mountain trails with rocks and steep descents. Is deore good enough for me or I should take slx?
I use Altus so...
Take the SLX. It´s not that much money....If you go really steep and long descents (e.g. in a Bikepark) I can only recommend the expensive but PERFECT Hope Brakes !
@@19Marc79 thanks man, I bought slx and I am waiting for it to arrive.
@@soliranje NEVER spare money on brakes ;_) SLX is a good brake !
Just get the basic BR-M355 that would be well enough for you no need even for deore you wouldnt know the difference only on the bill
Erm shouldn't you be tapping the hoses. Doesn't pulling and pushing bring the old oil into the system?
Right
I think he is only getting air out of the system. If you see dirty oil come out either into the syringe or the little cup, then replace all the oil by pushing all the oil out to into the cup, or some like to pull the syringe and draw new oil from the cup. It may take two or three of these flushes. Then you still need to do the push/pull as he did in the video to ensure all air has been removed. Tapping the lines, calipers and reservoir helps too.
@@bike4life153??
So bleeding brakes means to get all the air out, right? I thought it meant to get all the oil out and then replace it. So, did he replace the oil or was oil just run back and forth to remove the air?
both brakes were fine as he says in the video
air was the problem, oil does not go bad... no problem with the oil
Only replace the oil if its bad/old etc.
My cars just been done at 8 yrs/28,000 miles.
First bro love your videos.
Your front brake adapter is updide down😐
I just buy brand new shimano hydraulic brake rear brake not work properly no braking power. I suspect not much mineral oil on it or what happen exactly?
u need. to fill it up they don’t come filled up
There's so many wrong things here. Bleeding block was not properly secured. Another is, you'll be suprised by the amount of bubbles left in the levers if you just tilt it back and forth by 30 degrees then finally level while pumping the brake lever.
I won't complain about his placement of the bleeding block, since I usually use my pliers to block the piston, since it perfectly fit and the bleeding block that i have is too thin.
His push and pull method is good to remove air from the caliper area. Because trapped air in the caliper is too difficult to remove.
He should tap the lever in several angle to remove the air from the piston chamber too. Well at least that what I did.
He also pushes a bubble into the caliper at 7:45
Why did you put the bleed block in upside down?
Cuz!
I don’t understand this pushing fluid from the caliper back to the reservoir. I was taught when doing this for instance with cars is from the master cylinder to the brakes. This is so ass backwards to me! I would hang a bottle on the caliper with a hose to the bled valve and wrench in place, put the filling funnel or syringe in the fluid cylinder, open the bleed valve squeeze or push fluid through holding the lever pulled completely then tighten the bleed valve and repeat and always make sure the funnel or syringe never runs completely empty as to keep bubbles from forming or sucking into the system. Maybe I’m wrong folks and this is how they do it but it’s so confusing!
How you are saying it is how I've seen it done on another channel. First he pushed new fluid from caliper up using a syringe, like he did in this video to inject new fluid and push the dirt and old fluid into the canister. You have to suck out some fluid from the canister when it fills to give yourself room to inject 2 syringe-fulls of fluid. Then you do what you said. This push/pull business in this video looks to be extremely risky and I would think there would be a lot of air left in the line. Save to say the squeeze of the lever he did would have done nothing, because the syringe is under so much positive pressure that he wouldn't have been able to squeeze any fluid and air into it. You would have to use a canister
should there be no air inside the brake? or is it normal with air inside?
Im using deore m615 brakes
The mineral oil is enough but my lever still reach the grips
And the mechanic said that the pump of my brakes has a problem
No air bubbles for sure.
You have to remove the old fluid from the funnel after the first flush from the caliper otherwise your just recirculating the old fluid with the new and eliminating the purpose of the bleed. You are still removing the air from the system but still keeping the old fluid. No Good! Otherwise, good video.
While you aren't wrong about the fact he should change the fluid if doing a proper job, but for the purposes of a "bleed" changing the fluid is not necessary. Bleeding literally means getting the air out of the system, nothing more. So he's done enough to call it a "bleed" (except for the part where he literally pumps an air bubble into the caliper).
if he just wants to remove the bubbles and not change the oil he can do that
For hydrophilic brake fluid your argument is much more valid. You wouldn't want water absorbed into the fluid to turn to steam when it got hot, or to rust things. But mineral oil doesn't have an affinity for water like brake fluid does so it's much less likely to happen.
@@sheiladawg1664 True, but it does get dirty.
@@bobcoburn5238 'bleeding' suggests removing / replacing the fluid to me.
These brake spacers suck... 3 cards, as mentioned, works a treat!
Your disk brake mount, or whatever it's called, is set up wrong. The side that says up is pointing down... your pads are not contacting the disk at a proper angle.
7:22 air babble
But you left the old brake fluid in the sysytem?
He's just doing an air bleed... The technique is the same for a change, you just push more fluid through :-)
Yes, he did it wrong. You don't need air bleeding after changing oil in that technic (from the bottom) of course if you do it correctly. BTW he mix two schools of bleeding air. And none of them is done correctly.
@@marianczopka1087 give the links to correct tutorials.