Solved! Chevy 350 Eating Starters - Powermaster XS Torque Starter - How to Shim & Install + Review
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- čas přidán 8. 03. 2020
- We solve the problem of our 1999 Chevy Suburban, with a 350 ci/5.7l Vortec/L31 eating starters. We've gone through 4 starters previously, and are finally putting an end to this by buying an actually good starter, and measuring/shimming the new starter as needed.
Buy the things!
Powermaster XS Torque Starter:
www.summitracing.com/parts/pw...
amzn.to/3tiPPYX
Extra shims (if you don't feel like making your own and think you might need them):
www.summitracing.com/parts/pw...
amzn.to/3ejRObr
Starter broke again follow up video:
No link yet so it's still working :)
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@brianleishman
@simplylong - Auta a dopravní prostředky
When you used the flex plate mold to explain that should answer any question anyone should have. Great job
I've never had luck with aftermarket starters, just built a 454 with 10.1 compression and bought one of those power masters, it wasn't machined right and destroyed my flex plate no matter how I shimmed it, it wouldn't work. I put in a starter from my 97 z28 and it works flawlessly
You probably did it wrong. I'm sure your 283/454 that u built has came apart since you tried to build it.
Another great video! We hope this starters stays strong.
Sounds like a headache from the start! Didn't know I had to make my own shims for a starter that is pretty much made for this exact engine!? I bought a Powermaster 9200 starter from Summit a couple months ago. Just now getting time to bolt it up, but guess what? The main body is almost .250" smaller than O.e.m. so now I can't send it back and I have to make shims and try to make it work! Smh!
@@minnie19booboo important to note that our engine is running a different crank and a different flexplate, so the starter can't really be "made" for our engine
i have been having the same problem with my 1970 el camino custom 350 LT1 370 hp engine i tryed 4 cheep ebay starters and they all failed. now wacking your video i know what i got to do thanx dude. Larry B
These starters are not just simply bolt on, in most cases you have to shim them and in some cases milling the base to achieve the right tolerances. You will also have to make or buy a diode wire, if you are using a points ignition, this is an extra cost and not supplied. I used this starter on my 74 corvette and it was a pain in the butt to get it working right. For me, it was just not worth it, for what they are charging for these..... everything should be included.
I noticed you didn't use the brace from the front of the starter to the engine block, is that not needed for this application??
Very clean work
Great video and very informative
Tell me if that other hole lines up !!! Please. In the new starter
My 99 bourbon is eating starters as well what did you do to figure out what was making it eat starters
Good job young man.
At Chrysler, we had to wear safety glasses in work areas. Third write up without them and you were fired.
Good thing we don't work at Chrysler!
Well done 😊
Hello, I am having a no crank no start (there is power) my 64 ss impala has been to the electric shop more then once and can’t find the problem! 2 new starters, new alternator, 3 new batteries, 1 new ignition switch, bypassed the safety neutral switch, and still nothing! We hit the starter with a wrench and wall-a it starts. Any advice? My next step is to go mini starter and run a new power wire. (Something is causing my starters to fail) thanks in advance.
sounds like its not grounded good enough or there is a wire that goes from the positive battery cable and goes to the ignition box on older chevys make sure it is super energised i mean the wire is hooked with the positive cable compleatly hooked up or you will have the problem that you are having check out youtube wiering harness 1968- 1972 chevy el camino or impaula it will help you out thats what i did fixed my 70 elki right up. Larry B
I see in the comments the flex plate went bad. When you have bad teeth on the starter, that's the time to inspect the flex plate, too. Good chance the starter gears damaged the flex plate, or it was already damaged (3 previous starters).
Great tutorial on shimming! Where did you get the plastic flex plate quadrant. I need one.
Yeah that original flexplate had a lot of abuse, I don't blame it for its failure. And the quadrant was 3D printed! We modeled that and printed ourselves, we may still have the stl file somewhere
Can you use all three bolt holes with this starter?
Different chevy blocks from different years have different starter bolt holes on the block, so this starter comes with all of the possible holes for compatibility reasons, so we used the only two holes we can use for our specific block
You did a FANTASTIC JOB explaining clearances, shims, torque specs on bolts, why all of those things are important, etc. Then at 10:16 I saw that sketchy AF terminal connection and cringed. Please, for the love of everything holy, crimp and/or solder (or both) that connector AND put some heat shrink tubing around that excess exposed wire!! =/
Lmao yes, I hate those connectors, it's the same situation on the battery end of those wires and I really am trying to find 0 gauge connectors that are clean on their own
@@VeryGoodGarage I'd just go with something simple like this:
www.amazon.com/Copper-Battery-Welding-Connector-Terminals/dp/B07HKQDVF2/
The less bulky, the better, IMO. Of course, you'll also need the special crimping tool:
www.amazon.com/IWISS-Battery-Cable-Crimping-Cutter/dp/B00MVE48Z6/
And then *after* you crimp it down, I like to heat up the lug and dump a bunch of electronics grade solder down into the 'cup' until it's almost full. Let that cool down completely, then finish it off with some large diameter heat shrink tubing and a heat gun:
www.amazon.com/RockDIG-74PCS-Double-Wall-Adhesive-Assortment/dp/B07MW27JNZ/
www.amazon.com/Wagner-Spraytech-0503008-Heat-Gun/dp/B00004TUCV/
It'll look good, be minimal in diameter, and most importantly *safe* from short circuiting!!
(this comment is not in ANY WAY sponsored by Amazon)
^_^
Oh okay awesome, for some reason it never occurred to me to find these for my giant wire, but I already use these on my smaller wires! Got the crimper and everything, so I'll order a pack
@@VeryGoodGarage Awesome! Glad I could be of some help!! =)
Hopefully these will do better czcams.com/video/H4W4T_zgap8/video.html
Is this stater it will fit on my gmc classic Sierra 2wd 1500 1986
It should!
good job
Thank you!
Why pay that high price for that starter when you can get a starter for a 96 Chevy S-10 4x4 with the 4.3 vortec for 1/2 the price. It's a high torque starter from the factory. 🤠👍
You don't disconnect the power cable from the battery (+) to totally disconnect the battery from any motor vehicle wiring system! One would only disconnect the (-) terminal cable, the ground cable at the battery.
Exactly! You can potentially harm the electronics by not removing the ground.
@@davidcarr6831 Huh? I don't understand what you mean about harming electronics.
You *do* need to be very careful that if you only disconnect the positive terminal; you don't just chunk it down into the engine bay. If it hits anything (grounded) metal, it will cause a dead short in the battery. But that would only harm the battery. I don't see how it could really harm anything else, unless maybe it hit the alternator housing or something.
Disconnecting EITHER battery terminal (positive -or- negative) breaks the complete cycle of electricity to/from the battery. But I do agree that disconnecting the GROUND cable is probably the better choice Generally, if I'm working on anything electrical like a starter, alternator, distributor, car stereo.. I just disconnect *both* battery cables to be on the safe side.
If you like living on the edge and *only* disconnect your positive battery cable, *please* put the terminal down inside an old, *thick* cloth/leather glove (welding gloves are great). And add a bit of duct tape just for good measure around the wire and the hole your hand normally goes in so that it can't possibly come out of the glove. =)
I learned that in kindergarten...
@@Lloyd33I'm glad you told that punk azz off even da brotha's runnin round jackin everythang knows that
@@Lloyd33what are you talking about? If you disconnect the pos terminal the only think left energized is the pos terminal on the battery
I have a yellow, purple and red battery cable. Where do yellow or purple go?
Lol that sounds custom or car specific, you'd have to find the schematic for your car's wiring or follow the wires to find out
Purple to the s term. Yellow to the A terminal big red to the large hot terminal
Why does it crank so long? That’s possibly some issue!
We also have excessive crank play, due to the transmission not being installed with enough clearance at some point, breaking the old pump rotor in the process and starting the extra wear around the crank/bearing surface. Basically, the crank needs replaced :(
that shim moves the starter further away from the teeth on the flexplate
yeah, I need one that moves it closer. I was hoping this would solve my problem, but nope.
Did the starter last
We destroyed the gear actually, but it wasn't its fault, we had a flex plate completely destroy itself and it also destroyed our starter gear czcams.com/video/xw2RGW5Gc2c/video.html, and sadly we haven't had time to fix the burb for a while so I'm not sure
@@VeryGoodGarage wow thanks for replying
You mean you had to MACHINE a shim??? Holly molly!!! What if a guy doesn't have those tools?? I don't think this starter works for me!!! I even wonder whether your install is correct. MEH!!! Well..clear vid!
Actually we realized later that if your starter is that off, it might mean that the flex plate isn't shimmed properly rather than the starter, and we did actually have a flex plate shimming video here czcams.com/video/d6R3SG0HxBA/video.html
GM can't build starters fuel pumps or alternators lol.
you need safety glasses
I would only use original US made AC Delco starters! Chinese crap sucks.
Even the new AC delco starters are made in China and that sucks!!
Dont need shims, quit buying the " all Chevy starters are the same theory" and get the right nose piece and your good
Z xdr crew cree
Chevy crap motor a well designed motor would not require shims
It's a 383 rebuild that was our first engine build. It's not stock at all and a stock motor wouldn't need shims like this unless something was very wrong.
Music was annoying.not gonna watch the rest.bye bye.
Damn, sorry to hear that :( Hopefully we can make our music less distracting in our other videos
@@VeryGoodGarage don't listen to this crybaby.. barely noticed it.