Wobbly wheels on my bench grinder - fixed
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- čas přidán 26. 04. 2021
- Last December I put up a video about my Draper GD825L bench grinder and the wobbly wheels I had. See
• Wobbly wheels on my be...
My attempts to fix it then were not successful. This video chronicles my further attempts, which were successsful. Some lesssons learnt right at the end of this video. - Věda a technologie
Although my grinder really did have unsatisfactory wobble built into the flange plates and spindle design, the most important lesson I learnt is that before worrying about that, take care to trim the shape of the wheel, preferably with a diamond tool, and balance the wheel preferably with some kind of adjustable weights built into the flanges.
G'day Samuel, Many thanks for sharing, and a special thanks for your perseverance! You're the one who deserves a medal as you've provided an insight that will be beneficial to those of us who are grappling with the same issues.
I very much can appreciate your persistence trying to make a piece of crap work the way it supposed to . I'm replacing both grinding wheels on my piece of crap 8" Delta bench grinder . At one time, Delta Tools had a good name ! Not any more , just like most everything else these day's . Thanks , I did learn a lot from you sir .
I just bought a 150mm grinder with cheaper components than yours, so I found your process very useful because it saved me from embarking on a very similar path in trying to fix the wobble. On mine the cups are pressed sheetmetal so they float loose on the shaft, with that tiny shoulder offering no alignment at all - they are free to move much like the little cup on a G-clamp screw. This is more likely due to manufacturing cost-cutting than a design feature, but I decided to simply embrace it rather than fight it.
I cut new paper washers to ensure the cups were free to slide on the sides of the wheel during alignment, got the nut finger tight, then rotated the wheel by hand, pushing the wheel sideways with my thumb to correct lateral runout. Tightening the nut tended to throw it out again, so it took several tries (and rotating the cups a bit) to get the nut tight and the wheel running fairly true. Next step is to dress the wheel, but now I'll only have to remove a minimum of material.
I really enjoyed watching your efforts to tackle the balance issue on this grinder. I understand the lesson's you provided us to look out for when seeking a grinder and appreciate those thoughts as well.
Patience like this is a credit not only to MEN but also to the years of age in a MAN.
Thank you, sir, for your patience and the sharing of wisdom and learning.
Bravo.....you have the patience of a saint! Wonderful job. Thanks for the video!
I watched the whole video and learned a lot! Giving myself a pat on the back haha. Thank you for bringing us through your process.
Just came across this video while gathering ideas on fixing this problem on my POS Delta grinder. I confess I was yelling at the monitor on several occasions. I think if I was working on your grinder, I would have disassembled the entire thing, chucked the whole shaft in the lathe and trued up those shoulders on the shaft, then made an inner flange with the faces true, and a light press fit on the shaft to make sure the flange is seated properly against the shoulder. With that tiny shoulder, there's no way it can ever keep that loose flange true. The manufacturer should be ashamed for making something that poorly designed. As far as the grinding wheel goes, removing material from the wheel is a good way to end up with an exploded wheel. I would add something soft, like RTV silicone to the light side. If that flies off, it would hurt but wouldn't take your head with it. You're right about Norton. They're not even trying anymore, just like a lot of manufacturers these days. Be safe.
What a great video and story! I am so about the amount of time you had to spend, but it was very informative to me - I too, have a grinder that I need to correct. I admire your determination to get the grinder to work the way you want. And I admire you absolute commitment to keep on trying this or that, to achieve success. Really well done video! Thank you!
Thanks for your tireless effort, mine does the same thing
I feel better, been having the same fight with a Chinese bench grinder myself, the first one, I put a wire wheel and buffing mop on it and called it good.... the second, I bought high dollar stones, and have yet to fix it, now I am returning to the fray with new weapons ! thank you good sir, best regards Steve
Thank you very much, very interesting watching someone put in the extra effort and time to fix a problem. I think I’ll keep an eye on you.
Thanks, but see also my pinned comment here.
Excellent exercise. Thanks for sharing. You're a gentleman and a scholar!
Admiration for the petion and the craftsmanship!
Great Show!!!!!! Thank you for including it.
Thank you for your explanations and well documented efforts, have a nice day :)
Hi Samuel what a wonderful video. You obviously have a great knowledge of mechanical engineering. Best regards.
Well Samuel i did watch all the video:),and i must compliment you with your patience!!! Thank you for posting on youtube you saved me week of trying ….When i start my grinder anything on the bench that is not secure it goes all over the place, mind you is a good shaker:):)
Thanks again all the best
Ioannis
Athens Greece
Thank you!
Hurrah! Well done! Love your scientific approach to workshop problems. Cheap, poorly made tools are a pet hate of mine especially when addressing the problems in the factory would have cost pennies. Having said that, I bought a dirt cheap grinder from Lidl a few years ago and it's perfect - you can barely tell when it's running. More than likely luck of the draw, and I doubt the bearings would stand up to daily use, but that's not going to happen in my workshop.
Well done enjoyed every minute i like a person even though the odds keep stacking up youve stuck at it and got the job done well done keep up the great work regards Dave
“Is it time for lunch? Thank God for that!”😂😂😂
well done for sticking with it, i purchased the same model which has the same issues .
Ha ha 😜 I had a similar experience with a Chinese grinder. Bearings wore out and the wheels needed replacement. How hard can it be? Well as it turned out - bloody hard 😂
It’s 20 years old so getting it apart and back together again with new bearings in was a challenge. Then I Had the field coil the wrong way around so it ran backwards 😂
Then I installed the wheels and the wobble and runout caused it to jump off the bench and run away.
First problem was the bushes supplied. 1/2 inch to 32mm. At least .6mm of slop there. Nothing to center the wheel on the shaft. So I turned some new PET bushes. Snug fit. It got rid of most of the radial runout and strangely enough eliminated the wobble? Not sure why.
But it’s still vibrating a bit because the wheels aren’t balanced. Put a bit more rubber between it and the bench so it’s usable. Don’t have your patience 😂
Excellent video. I started to embark on the same mission! That’s what brought me to your video. I had been trying to source solid arbours as mine are pressed flimsy washers. All I wanted to do was to sharpen my centre punch, drill bits and chisels etc. Seems like it is cheaper just to replace the drill bits etc.
Thank you for taking the trouble to explore methodology in resolving this out of balance wheel my initial thoughts when I started watching we're to deal with it as one would with a car wheel when making a tyre change but the balance weights are placed on the rim of the wheel which is not possible with that wheel then as I continued watching and heard your subtle comments especially the profanity I had to smile and laugh. I would probably have spent as much time as you trying to resolve and would eventually say F it and thrown it in the bin and then bought a CBN wheel. I fell off my chair when you announced the price you paid for the machine and spent a week resolving an issue that we users of these wheels should never have to do 🙂 I think I may stick to files and sand paper. Thanks again making this video and will wait unexpectedly for my medal 😉
I am using my Grandfathers bench grinder built 40 years ago and it was whisper quiet and stable till I recently stuck a new Norton wheel on it (China made). Thankfully I only had to dress the surface to fix my woes, but I did appreciate your video
Thanks for this it was very helpfull. I bought an Axminster Trade 8'' bench grinder that has a wheel that is 2mm out of round and makes the bench that the grinder is bolted to vibrate like mad.
A great video Samuel - thanks for sharing! Your superb use of Anglo-Saxon at 3:57 has gained you another subscriber Sir.
Very good work, friend, excellent.
It is a shame that manufacturers don’t take more pride in quality, dependability, and longevity of their products. I’ve recently bought a grinder with the same issue, and went about solving it the same way. One tip I could give is checking the shaft diameter with micrometers and then turning a shaft to gage the bore during the boring process. Thanks for the real life video!
This project that you are doing was done by myself a few years ago. What I had to do was grind my grinding stones to make them flat or should I say parallel. Then the wheel balance needs to be addressed. Grinding wheels today you buy are just junk. My father has a grinder with 14 inch diameter by 3 inch wide wheels. Two different grit grades, corse and fine. They spin like you machined them in the lathe. That does not happen today. They made stuff back in the day to last and last. The balance of the wheel is perfect. When you shut off the grinder, it runs five to six minutes. The bearings are the size of commercial bus axles, with ball the size of quarters. 3 H.P. pedestal grinder. TODAY THEY JUST SELL JUNK AND NOTHING MORE. Nice video Samuel too. vf
Good job Samuel.
Great job. Educational.
Thank you!
I always use Spherical washers as well😎
Very enjoyable video. That lead weight would worry me to death until the wheel was worn out or it became a projectile and killed me.
Yes it is a bit worrying. Much safer to use an off-balance metal flange that can be rotated to achieve overall balance.
Machining a cap with inter/changable moveable weights wuld have been an interesting project
I feel your pain. There does not seem to be a decent grinder on the market that wasn't made in China. Companies should be ashamed of themselves.
Trust the chinese made tools like this to your own peril.
Its not the company's fault. The average person can no longer afford domestically made products. Their buying power has been stripped by absurd political policy.... But no one wants to talk about that
I took your advise and dressed the wheel first ,then attempted to balance the wheel, made a huge difference in my 8inch pedestal grinder. I didn't/couldn't surface the spacers or test the shaft runout. It runs very very little vibration now after just doing those steps.
I bought from a reputable machinery shop to avoid the risks of poor quality as I had little experience at that time.
It was hilarious to watch from start to finish! 🤣🤣
I have some wobble on one wheel too, and the grinder in question did just arrive yesterday with the delivery!
But that said, what I will do later is first take off both stones and check if the rod runs with a wobble. If I happen to find out those run true, I will check the grinding stones(and I think one of the grinding stones might be weird). I think it is possible that the grinding wheels are the culprit of wobbling most of the time, by how they where made, they basically "bake" them. So yeah making sure the rod runs true(which most often it will) and then going over to the wheels ...
Hi Samuel great video you need the patience of a saint I think adding weight is better than remove which must weaking the wheel . My grinder is a different make and is made the same as yours I think they all are poorly designed in the first place.i will at some point balance my wheels the same as you have as mine has always vibrated and this has the potential to destroy the bearings which I have just replaced thanks for sharing kind regards Shaun
I just loved your video. You had me in stitches many times. Our thought processes are much the same and many of the things you have tried, I have done or am about to. Must not touch the material of the stone - that has now compromised the wheel. You have removed most of the wobble, so my next steps would be to use the outer flange as the mechanism to balance the wheel after if it is dressed. You need to ensure the wheel is round. The outer flange can be drilled until a balance is found (same way pulleys are balanced) or if the flange is made thick enough, holes can be drilled and tapped and lead shot inserted to balance. Mark and record everything. I replied, below, a couple of times to gatorayde2005 that may be of interest. The amount of time and energy you have put into this project is incredible, but I understand that mentality - you want the bloody thing to work properly.
Thanks. I agree using off-balance flanges to counteract the offbalance of the wheel, rather than drilling into the wheel itself, is the right way to do it.
Another option would be to make a new clamping washer/ring with tapped holes on a pcd, and balance weight it with screws and washers. Also, as the fixed clamp was loctited on, could you not have clocked it up true before the glue set and save on the grinding op? Interesting video though.
Hi Samuel, have watched your two videos regarding this grinder, and your methods of trying to sort it out, I can see your frustration! just a tip if you don't mind, get one of those flat diamond dressers rather than the rotating wheel kind, also rig a straight edge from the tool rest, (held on by mole grips) so you can dress the sides of the wheel as well as the periphery, you will eliminate wobble, then balance the wheel if you need to, using your adding weight method, please don't dig away into the wheel! just friendly advice from an old engineer to another, take care, Dave
thanks
Very nicely done. I commend you for your patience and fortitude on this what should have been a small project. Norton wheels are mostly now made in Mexico and I have had a lot of problems with them. They are not made anywhere as good as they were 2 years ago. I am looking for a manufacturer that is making some decent quality and balanced wheels. I am still looking. Any suggestions would be be greatly appreciated. Thanks for sharing this adventure wit us and take care!
Thanks. I'm afraid I don't know of any good grinding wheel manufacturers.
Put two steel rods on top of the wood blocks. Have the copper tube roll on the rods rather than the wood.
Wheels with a 12.7mm bore are a bad option, it will always give end runout, because the smaller the shaft, the more critical the looseness is. Therefore, it is better to use abrasive wheels with a 32 mm hole and make a 32 mm sleeve with a 12.7 mm hole. The motor shaft must fit snugly into the hole and the wheel must fit snugly on the sleeve.
If the washer is stamped, it is better to make another one - order from a turner. Make a faceplate and a 32 mm bushing in one piece at once. It can be made of aluminum, it can even be made of textolite or dense plastic.
Next, the balancing of the abrasive wheel. No need to drill it, it can crack and then cause you serious injury. You need to pick up a load of lead and glue it on the side with epoxy.
Amazing amount of will power you have. I had to machine new bushings for mine as well and balance the grinding wheels before i could use it for sharpening tools. It's a chinese grinder as well. I too would rather have paid twice the amount of money for something useable out of the box. Any way it was very inspirin to watch your video.
Kind Regards from Denmark. Kenni
As a non technical person I instantly realised that the forst thing you should have done is to establish whether or not the wheels were balanced. I recently bought an 8 in grinder from Axminster, it vibrated worse than my old machine, rather than mess with it I took it back for a refund not being prepared to invalidate any warranty by meddling with it.
Genius :)
Tahta üzerinde basitçe denge testi çok kolay ve güzelmiş. başka bir aparatla uğraşma zorunda kalmadan yapabildim. ama yalpa almak için. disk yavaşladığı sırada bir keçeli kalem yaklaştırmak ve boyanan yeri traşlamak , freze kullanmaktan daha kolay . teşekkürler.
The best thing to sandwich a grinding wheel are drink coasters which they use in pubs to soak up condensation
They give them away free, and there are lots of uses in the workshop!
They are soft and pliable and amazingly uniform in thickness and texture.
Always pinch stuff before buying it!!!
Stavros
The best and safest solution I found for you is " How To Stop A Bench Grinder From Vibrating Using Static Balancing" by The Guild's Classic Cars on youtube. This assumes n axle with low runout which could be milled by mounting the grinder on mill and turning it against a mill bit.
@38:00 I would think that attaching a weight to the wheel would be very dangerous with such forces . It would be easier to place the weight on the flange with say 3x threaded bolts adjusted to counter the weight and do a live balance. I believe you can purchase a live dynamic balancer flange for grinders. example is - look up " Grinding wheel mounting & balancing" by Shadon HKW
Could have bought a better made grinder in the first place, but wheres the fun in that 😆Classic stuff my man, im currently having the same issues with an old grinder, its vibrating all over the place, but I just cannot convince myself to buy another. Anyway great stuff, happy Christmas and new year to you sir
Removing material from the grinding wheel will compromise its integrity. Good luck there. Simply dismantling the motor and truing the little edges on the axle between two centers on the lathe would do away with stuffing around with paper gaskets. Turn up some decent flanges and center bushes to fit the axle and any wheel will run true after you dress it.
What you guys think of, intead of gluing leads directly to the wheel surface, to add some weight to the washer, and glue the washer to wheel (or it's cardboard) and keep it locked in position to balance the wheel? Could be a tapped hole and a bolt, without touching the wheel or the grinder guards.
After turning a tight bushing and facing and turning the washers, still had the same problem of yours. Found out that all wheels come unbalanced, no matter what. A wheel dressing lessens the problem, but doesn't cure. Way to go is to balance, them dress the wheel.
Yes I agree usng an off-balance washer or flange is the way to go, and the method you suggest would keep the balancing attached to that particular wheel so only need to do it once even if you are changing wheels. A related idea is shown here czcams.com/video/Lci46fahHKc/video.html .
Pretty smart fix. It's amazing how horribly these things are built despite modern technology and how much they cost.
I feel your pain, I've just had to fix the same problem.
I couldn't agree more with "shouldn't have left the factory", the standards of so many products is staggeringly low, even with expensive equipment at times.
Fixing brand new things just shouldn't be necessary - in this case yes, all wheels need to be balanced which should be done in the factory, but also the tolerances of the flanges are just tragic.
When we do change the wheels we have to presumably be qualified engineers as the flanges have no balancing devices either.
Crap.
I drilled holes in the outer washer and filled with molten lead, it sort of worked.
Thanks
I found that retaining nut would not run square to the shaft. A pair of grinder wheel washers which have dished surfaces solved most of my issues. I believe the ridicules small shaft lip is remaining culprit.
I`m with you every inch of this video so far. That`s half way . I have a hand grinder , The narrow contact on one side of the dish washers may be a fraction off which is amplified by the diameter . Then the bolt clamping the stone in place ---how true is the contact surface of that ? It was a tiny bit rusty but mostly clean .But is the thread perfectly at right angles to the nut surface .Only nuts and bolts and washers made by makers like SAAB will have that accuracy . Aircraft standards , I will have to dial them in in a methodical sequence .Or try grinding them to shape . I`ve won my medal for the complete video ,but won`t the wheel lead shoot you when it wants to come off? The moving spanner is the acid test for balancing then . Stay safe .
Did you ever check that small lip ? Did you balance the wheel? Did you true up the circumference? Did you dress the sides ? Also you can balance just by rotating the wheel a tad until balance is found ?
I also empathize, as much as I am able, to your challenges with this wheel. One question occurred to me while watching this video: Which factors influenced you in deciding the radius distance from center - where to remove material? I seem to remember another video where material is removed closer to the periphery, which I surmise would require lesser material removed. I can only think of "because you might wear the wheel down to a considerable smaller radius", but that sounds unlikely to me.
Yes, my thought was simply to preserve as much of the outer part of the wheel for use. I agree probably one would get a new wheel rather than wearinjg it right down though.
@@samuelfielder I imagined also that the perceived value of this wheel had lessened somewhat during your endeavours with it, yet you’ve put a lot of effort into it.
Great fun to watch though as I did so a question came to mind. Why not just slow the speed down to something like 300 to 400 rpm? That would reduce the vibration as well as the risk of burning the tool tip. Just a thought.
As it's an induction motor I don't think I could easily vary its speed, but I could have bought a lower speed one in the first place. I think I wanted to use it also for wire wheels and polishing.
I have an aluminium wheel, and was wondering if I could start by drilling a small hole straight the way through and progressively getting bigger until it balances out. What do you think?
Do you mean the wheel is aluminium oxide? Generally it is not advisable to attack the grinding wheel itself (which I did to start with). Better and safer to apply the balance to the two flanges that grip the wheel. See also my reply to Marcelo lannini below.
@@samuelfielder ok thanks
What brand and model of dial indicator are you using there? And what attachments are you suing with it? I am looking at purchasing my own, and would love to see if you would mind giving me that information please. Thank you. And great video!
I bought my DTI from arceurotrade. Its part number is 100-100-00300 and it measures 0.01mm per division over a range of 0.8mm. I mount it on a Dasqua hydraulic 80 Kg magnetic base. I think it is important with bases for mounting DTIs that all three joints should be locked by one screw, and that they should have a fine adjustment of the DTI angle. I've found that this hydraulically locked one is in my view better than the mechanically locked ones.
I admire your tenacity...and your math skills! But mustn't use bad words! What would the Queen think? lol
Hi. How did you figure the 15 grams of weight needed at that spot of the wheel?
Watch from czcams.com/video/rVKHdoRmV9g/video.html Actual calculation is at 34:46
Just some notes - @20:00 Did the axle have a run out ? Why not mill the axle instead of the flange side plate which was in spec ?
The axle did not have run out. The runout of the plate is determined by the very shallow lip on the axle, not by runout of the spindle.
@@samuelfielder could you have machined that lip on mill ?
@@das250250 No. The point is it is too small to work effectively.
Hello from Indiana USA. I found the same wheel for $68 (USD) and after watching this I can't bring myself to purchase it. Do you have a recommendation for a premium quality wheel ?
I enjoyed your saga, it was very entertaining (sadly at your expense)
Hope you get long life and use out of your tailored silicon carbide wheel.
Now 40 min in & I was wrong about the shaft.
Here's a thought
Make up a steel disc to clamp the wheel , use it to balance by adding lead to the cross drilled holes in the "new" steel disc.
It could be reused to balance subsequent replacement wheels.
I could make up a concept drawing if you need one, just don't know how to get it to you.
Yes, there are lots of ways to do it. I definitely wouldn't take chunks out of the wheel itself next time. Here's a neat way: czcams.com/video/Lci46fahHKc/video.html
@4:58 : I don't understand how putting a nut on the end of the axle changed the run out measurement
Are those parts made in England or offshore? Thank You.
Which parts? I assume the grinder is made in China. Don't know about the Norton grinding wheel.
Instead of putting stress points in the grinding wheel why not try drilling holes in the flange and rotate the flange until the vibration disappears. The flanges on mine are cupped so you could even pour some lead in there and remove mass in the lead until you achieve a balance. Or make a flange to your own design. The last thing I want to see in a headline is 'Samuel Fielder shot by grinder'.
You are right. I did mention this in my pinned comment.
I didn't see that Samuel.
It was a good video covering a subject that we are all facing at some point nowadays. That of shonky equipment and spares.
One should take a balanced approach to the grinder wobble problem
Mielenkiintoinen projekti seurata kiven tasapainotuksesta.
Removing material from the grinding wheel is the worst thing you could have done! That wheel will explode on you in no time! NEVER use a wheel that has been compromised. Better to buy a better quality wheel. Take a look at this video: czcams.com/video/dHx0uItIvVA/video.html
Don't think you have been around much Jack, - In 50 years in for real industrial environments that did not balance every single wheel on the surface and tool and cutter grinders, with very few exceptions where it was not done by removing weight at center 1/4 of the wheel with a common carbide masonry bit. Anybody that tells you different is full of something that rhymes with masonery bit.* Fact is the first time I was a grinding wheel balances was in high school shop class in 1965,,,,,It was done by removing material with a die grinder.
It's not that dangerous as one might think. I've drilled wheels to balance and have had no problems Don Bailey of Suburban Tools also has a CZcams video on this. Cheers.
It’s in your shaft
I'm only 4 minutes in , but , I think the shaft is running out.
It measured less than 10 microns.
Hi. Nice work. I just came across your channel and subscribe. I need to do something like that with my bench grinder. Hopefully soon on my channel.
You disassembled the motor why not true and balance the rotor on the lathe
The motor shaft is true. The problem lies in not being able to fix the grinding wheel to the shaft in a reliably true state.
I believe you upset the balance of the wheel yourself. Never soak a wheel in water. If it gets wet, let it run for five minutes before shutting the grinder off. This is a well known problem among old time lapidarists.
Have you found anyone who sells well-balanced grinding wheels yet?
No, but haven't tried.
@samuelfielder I was searching for a company that claims to have well-balanced grinding wheels, and so far, no luck.
I am pretty impressed with all the effort you put into solving that vibration issue. Well done.
Lets Roger That channel has (4 step) method of balancing the grinder that is similar tovthe way you did it, but a little different too. Maybe give it a view?
I can’t stand the wobble and noise my grinder makes. That being said, I don’t believe they were ever meant to be precision instruments. 🤷🏻♂️ my bench grinder I inherited through my father who inherited it from his, so it’s an old one. It Is an awesome machine and probably gets the most use of any tool in my shop.
dress the wheel like one is supposed to
I did, as shown in the video.
@@samuelfielder the sides
везде одинаково купи и доделывай...
My new term is "Shop Shy" everything is junk, customer service is shit, warranty is shit. Keep your money til they all go bankrupt and decide to have companies make better stuff
6:46 So one tenth of a millimeter drives him insane, but the giant hole in the sleeve of his sweater... no big deal.
obviously it's for heat (and sweat) dissipation
Too many variables, try starting with g clamps to secure the grinder and work in reverse, worked for mine👍
Why are you trying to achieve perfection? If the bench grinder is doing its job then a little bit of vibration should not matter.
that's a dangerous thing your'e doing by drilling or grinding on that disk. if you want an explosion keep it up. these wheels are made in a casting type process. the centers are rarely if ever concentric with the OD or perpendicular to the faces. the thickness of the wheel varies. you may have noticed (or not), the heavy section of the wheel was where the dresser removed material to create the near concentricity with the mounting hole.
maybe a better approach would be to determine whether the OD is in fact circular, then determine whether the hole is concentric to the OD. secondly, determine if the hole is perpendicular to the faces, and third find where the thickness is varied and then proceed.
i'm wondering if there is a practical need for all this messing about. these wheels are made within a tolerance that has been determined as safe for shop use. just do as Pittam suggests. "dress the wheel like one is supposed to" and go with it.
One of the issues that pops up with wobbly wheels is the stress on the bearings. My grinder is a cheap Chinese wanna-be and the cheap Chinese bearings went away in less than one year. I have since replaced them with SKF bearings made in Japan. The issue of the wobbly wheels themselves lies in the tiny shoulder (lip) on the shaft. It really is too small to use as a register face. The idea of the machined plate with the sleeve extension on the back should address this issue (or most of it). The paper discs need to be replaced and properly glued. Agree, must never touch the material of the composite wheel itself. I tried 2 new CBN wheels and the wobble issue is the same. CBN wheels (made in USA) are machined true. The CBN wheels come with a special set of
Self-Aligning Spherical Washers to try to sort this out, but that only works if you rotate the wheel, tighten, check, loosen ---repeat many times.
For the composite type wheels, you comment on the centre hole being concentric with the wheel gave me an idea. Fill the centre hole in the wheel completely with epoxy and then find centre mechanically and re-drill the hole to exactly the same diameter as the shaft without touching the material of the wheel. The hole is sloppy enough when it was made that this should not be an issue. The resulting new hole will have a tiny thickness of epoxy as the new surface to slide on the shaft. With the new thicker plates and a wheel that is snug on the shaft, I think Bob's your uncle.
Would you accept greetings and peace from an Arab Muslim? Greetings to you
Certainly. Peace and good will to you too.
Far too much trouble or your average guy
Ps I tot me who thumbed down
Well, I'm not saying "follow me". I'm just documenting what I did and learnt.
Two Ways to Make a Faceplate for Bench Grinder (No Lathe)
czcams.com/video/CVYg9FFsLVo/video.html