2011 Silverado P0340
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- Happy Thanksgiving! Follow along as I figure out this P0340 for a 2011 Silverado. This was a odd one!
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All Data wiring diagrams are nice. If you use the windows "find" function (F3) you can type in CMP or whatever and it will highlight on the diagram.
You also don't need to type the vehicle make-just the year and model starts bringing them up.
Great tip!! I will try that later today!!
all this makes me more confused
Great job Brian. I’ve seen a lot of these trucks where the 5 volts gets shorted by the oil pressure sensor and pulls the 5 volt down to zero volts and the throttle goes in default mode and sets code P0641. On older models the ecm sends 12v reference voltage to the cam and crank sensor. If the 12v gets shorted it will short the 12v at the ckp sensor. The diagram will not show that they’re connected internally but they are. 👍
Great Video Brother, I appreciate you taking the time to make and post it for the DIYers amongst us!!!
Glad to help
NASA has a massive wiring guide that’s free to read online. They say that applications that have vibration should use barrel crimp butt connectors. Solder will eventually fail due to vibration.
Have a wonderful Thanksgiving, Brian.
Great information! Happy Thanksgiving
Great find Brian, and way to stick through this! It couldve been so easy to just assume the PCM was gone and stopped there! But you kept going!
I was really surprised the pcm was not cooked, as Corey says thermal event!. I documented the snot out of this recommending harness inspection and noting that pcm may be on its last legs.. I wonder how the ref low is ran to ground through the pcm?
Once again nice find and good repair. Sometimes an overlay is the easiest and most cost effective solution for the customer 👍
enjoy your day! got to check them wires once in a while for that problem.
Great video. That customer got very lucky on the PCM.
Last year I had to do a wiring repair on my 2014 Mustang GT where something chewed the wiring off right at the connectors of both passenger side VVT solenoids. I bought new connectors and used those same type of bare barrel connectors with heat shrink to do the repair. A year and a half later and the repair is still holding strong. I considered using solder but after reading a lot of info about not using it in possible vibration situations, I decided against it. The new Ford connectors came with those same barrel connectors to do the repair.
I didn't think pcm would be ok !
Brian, did a Webinar with John Thornton last night and he said for KOEO use battery negative and for KOER use the alternator case when checking for voltage on a circuit…just passing it on !!
Happy Thanksgiving Brian!
No word of a lie...i watched it with a bag of popcorn salted with butter .....Great job !!
great video tks.i use the same but conector as you, but not on app wiring those i solder .learned that the hard way .lol
Happy Thanksgiving to you and family. Sometimes you have to do whatever works. You will always have critics but hey they do what they want and you do what works for you. Thanks for sharing 🦃 👍
Happy Thanksgiving!
Man was this ever helpful. I had an intermittent stall with intermittent alternating crank vs cam sensor codes. Of the truck sat for 5 minutes, it would restart. My problem turned out to be the cam signal wire ground out on power steering pump. I wonder if this would cause a 5 minute time out on the pcm? Definitely weird it would restart around 5 minutes after. I almost put a cam sensor in it. I appreciate your video.
This was my exact issue. Brown wire broke closer to ps pump. Thanks
Happy Thanksgiving great job
Forgot to mention this when it does start on the extended crank unitl the second ignition attempt it has 60psi fuel pressure the injectors are pulsing and the coils are firing sometimes getting alittle back fire out the exhaust and sometimes alittle backfire out the intake.
I had a back fire out the exhaust sometimes anf the intake sometimes I had the firing order backwards on my 80 malibu with a 229 lol
Great video, on point.
Una pregunta que señales debo tener para el sensor cmp para una Silverado 2011
Tengo 2 voltajes de 5 v y una tierra es correcto?
Happy Thanksgiving, enjoy your videos
And this is why I drive an old car this looks like a nightmare.😮
So if that wire was shorted to positive 4.7v and you jumped it from pcm supplying a ground, why didn't the fuse pop? What am I not understanding here
That was a low reference ckt, it was intermittently rubbing to that b+ wich compromised the circuit integrity. That b+ circuit is not protected ( maybe it is but a very large fuse or link)
@@BrianMann216 yeah but if that wire was a low ref which is a ground and it was shorted to pos getting 4.7v, when you hooked your fused jumper it should've popped and essentially all you did was hookup a low ref ground to a wire that was shorted to pos all over again and it'll melt the wires because you didn't find where the short to pos was. You hooked up that low ref directly to that pos shorted wire all over again
i think crimp connector should be ok but do think solder is still better
Great video thanks! What is the advantage of using tech 2 win over an aftermarket scan tool, seems like a very outdated and annoying to use tool?
Eric, I like the tech2win emu because it's waaaay faster than my Thinktool on these older model GMs. But yes, the GUI sucks, for lack of better words. There are times only it will do re-learns, when my Launch, Thinktool, or Autel won't do it. It has its place in my diag cart.
Tech 2 win may look outdated , however it functions much faster than some other tools for sure and generally speaking it does what it is supposed to when other aftermarket tools may or may not perform a function.
Haven't seen a cam speed pid on an aftermarket tool....
@@paulpaquette1961 Thanks I'm not Eric From Advanced Level Automotive Same name with diagnostics at the end
@@BrianMann216 Thank you I recently started using Witech and was looking into other OEMs
Happy Thanksgiving to you
I have questions for you what the laptop Gm Recommended to used the website please let me know thank you
Happy Thanksgiving
@@BrianMann216
My friend what Gm Recommended for to do Release Flash&Reprogramming
@@mahmoudhantouli5434 happy thanksgiving 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Hi. I just came across your video cause have a 2006 impala ss with a 5.3L engine. It started out with a p0340 code and extended crank. When it came to me the cam sensor had been replaced. So I started with the connector one terminal had been spread out so replaced connector still had code and extended crank. So I replaced sensor with the same brand code cleared still has extended crank at times now with no codes. Pulled wiring harness apart looking at the wire all is good. Then I noticed when it does the extended crank I have crank counts crank rpms and cam counts but the cam rpms stays at 0. So I put an new ecm in it but it still does the same it. No codes and extended crank can release the key from crank to run back to crank position and it will start up and the cam rpms work on that second attempt does that sound like a bad cam sensor if so that will 3 of them bad or could it be a crank sensor not showing up any problems. I've checked both sensors 12 ref is good ground good and it has signal. I'm lost at this point. Thanks in advance for your help. Great video
How is the fuel pressure? Make sure you check the cam sensor counter Data pid for it to be counting
60 psi fuel pressure its got injector pulse its good spark crankshaft counts count the crankshaft rpms work the camshaft counts count but the camshaft rpms stay 0. Cycle key from crank to run back to crank position cranks right up and the camshaft rpms work then. Just got though putting a crankshaft sensor in it tonight didn't fix it
Hello, good morning, I am a follower of your channel and I am contacting you, to be able to comment on the following situation that occurs in my vehicle, Ford mondeo mk2 2.5 v6, one morning the battery was discharged, without knowing how to change the battery, when month or so, the car stopped in full operation, it was as if the electricity had died, stop, giving it and giving it until it started, again as if the battery was without charge, it was only a month old, I changed the alternator regulator , and well, I bought it, it charges over 14.5V, and I considered the fault finished, one day cleaning the interior, I left the radio on, while I cleaned, and nothing a few minutes later, the voltage began to drop, less to less, until the battery was discharged at that moment, I was surprised because that had never happened to him, I did another test, with the battery charged again, I gave the contact, after a short time, equal to less to less , that in a moment the battery goes away, I recharge it, install it, and leave it and connected approximately 2 months, until I realized that the red light of the alarm did not blink, I checked it and discharged, that did not happen in the past either, it carried out the current leakage test with the multimeter, because I told myself that this would have to be a current leak, it is the logical thing to think, and what was my surprise, that the value it gave is 0.02 amps, with the battery just charged, so there is no current leak, I have also performed the voltage drop test and it gives 000v both positive and negative, and then what happens to it? I don't even know what else to do, regarding what I am explaining to you, I await your prompt clarification, please, greetings.
Sounds as though there is an intermittent condition. 20 milliAmps is nothing worry about as you stated. There must a issue at only certain times.
@@BrianMann216 What more tests can I perform with the multimeter?, what else would you do in this situation, what steps would you take?, to be able to finish once and for all.