Harley-Davidson Engine Damage is Easily Preventable
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- čas přidán 3. 07. 2024
- Harley-Davidson engines start hard, it takes quite a bit to get Harley-Davidson engine turning and this only takes more and more when you add more power to your engine. Adding more power through big bore kits more than likely comes with a compression increase, adding compression adds power but makes the engine even harder to start especially when hot. It takes a lot to push those big pistons through the compression stroke and without compression releases you can cause some serious engine damage. Unless you have a Twin Cam 103 or Milwaukee 8, your Harley-Davidson engine likely does not have compression releases. Relieving compression during start up is a lot less expensive and less invasive than you might think.
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What are your thoughts on easy start cams and bolt on compression releases??
I'd really like to know what the highest voltage regulator I can putbon 08 raodking with a 96 engine is.
Hay GixxerFoo, I got a "17 FXDB Dyna Streetbob 103.... I'm going into the shop to do some motor work in the next few weeks & been buying all the parts first.
I started with the Primary side with a new chain tensioner & clutch upgrade, then Cam Plate & Oil Pump kit, & new tensioners, valves, pushrods & springs BUT I still haven't decided the NEW Cam's.... 🤯🤯🤯... Not wanting to waste my money, so I'm wanting the correct set-up the first time... & Doing even more research & also been speaking with my mechanic for his knowledge & advice, ... The biggest thing people overlook is that they tell the mechanic BS about how they ride & this won't help with the build set-up & this is the BIGGEST reason people talk shit about Harley Mechanic's ❗...
Remember rule #1
Do Not F🤪CKING Die ❗
Safe travels 🙏♥️🐾🐾🇦🇺
I have done the S&S thing on my TC88 to 95ci. I did upgrade almost all the internals above the crank and added an oil cooler. I did not P&P the heads though. The bike 2002 FXDL has lasted a really long time. Other than the electrical system taking a crap in 2013 it has been reliable. Obviously once I had to do a stator I upgraded my compensator as well. TC’s are really great bikes for the riders who like to wrench. M8s are okay too of course but are a lot more cookie cutter albeit a lot easier to work. M8s I would just toss in a S&S oil pump/475 Cam and keep it stock. My 2021 Road King is just solid bike but had to ditch the stock cam chest and cam and it’s relatively easy for anyone with a little bit of mechanical aptitude but you need to program the ECU. Also don’t forget those EVOs which are damn near bullet proof 😂
Hey brother, for 107 m8 2017 ultra limited . Witch one is good between wood 22XE vs. Starracing 30-30. Please advise thanks
@@anchorsaweigh9893you had a perfectly good compensator it was 2007 that Harley started putting in crap I can't even keep track of how many of those & the screaming eagle comps I have welded together for customers !
For what the Snap-On truck charges for a ratchet, I better be able to torque the Earth's crust to its mantle and it better not break
Do some digging into the Icon brand at Harbor Freight. Don't judge them until you seriously dig into them.
I know what you mean man, I wanted a quality 3/8 torque wrench and the Snap-On one is nearly !!!400$!!! Works absolutely wonderful though.
You get what you pay for you can always get some cheesy harbor freight
i have broke many snap on's in my life time
@@markjulianoriginalhooli2217 I did get a harbor freight torque wrench and it was total junk.
I’ve been watching you for awhile now. Seems like keeping my 2015, 103 Roadking stock is good enough for me.
If it's paid off keep it
2014 and later Twin Cam 103 is the best years in the TC motors in my opinion. That's when they finally got their setup lined out. You can do a lot with those and not absolutely destroy the motor if you don't get too crazy.
I've been running s&s easy starts for two years now. No issues. Love them.
That's awesome! They are some really solid cams and hard to beat for the ease of install and compression releases to push!
Honestly...I'd start with the crankshaft assembly and use a Dark Horse or an S&S and have the lower case blue printed and the crankshaft assembly balanced, and a timken bearing put in. ALL BEFORE doing anything to the top end. Doing the Lower End creates a strong foundation. Then I'd do the transmission and clutch again all before doing the top end. This would ensure that the transmission and clutch don't go out in transferring torque from the engine to the rear wheel. Once again: it's about building a strong foundation.
With more air and more fuel due to greater displacement and greater compression comes more HEAT and an Oil Cooler and a better Oil Pump/CAM plate are an essential part of heat management and thermal efficiency.
Also consider Roller Bearing Rocker Arms and crank case ventilation.
All of these things would improve reliability as well as thermal efficiency and lubrication.
Bostonterrier97 - - a man with a plan. Now all you need is about $ 7000.00 / $9000.00 to piss off on that project. And when you're all done, someone who spent $ 14,000.00 on theirs will pull up next to you, and blow the paint off your tank as he leaves so hard you hear a giant 'sucking sound' , that takes your pride, and ego, with him all the way down the street ! Now what ?
i am so blessed to have ridden 74 and 80 cubic shovelheads. yeah we built the shit out of those bikes and maybe they were slightly faster than a stock bike of today. However im completely satisfied with todays stock bikes. so when i get ready to rebuild my bike it'll be 10,000 over maybe a new cam/ plate some freah tappits/ rods hell ill probably splurge for an oil pump. but ill get anothe 60- 80 thousand miles on that before i need to split the cases. i just blew away a really built 98 with my stock 103 ho why. its not always the bike sometimes its the rider that knows his bike and when to shiift. oh ps. the ridder oof the other bike out weighed my buy twice. so if you want your bike to go faster loose some weight. you'd be surprised.
More compression, more power, more heat.
When I upgraded my 96 I got some 103 heads and added the SE compression releases. It's a road less traveled but I like it.
That's a damn good option, a lot of people don't know those Twin Cam heads will swap back and forth between any twin cam years!
I had a Twin Cam for 10 years with no issues. I went through two M8 motors in less than 5 years. One was the stock 107, one was a rebuild of that motor with a S&S 124 kit. No more for me.
I kept my compression at 10:1. No need for compression release and I don’t worry about valve ping with the crappy gas we’re using.
Thanks for all the great content!!!
Great video Gixx, I love Fridays
I have 02 Heritage Softail.
Stage 3 Screaming Eagal with compression valves. 1.4kw High output starter.
Custom High end oil cooler. 2in1 V&H's pipes.
Tons of work.
Bike leaves a lot of shit behind my dust.
Sic power and speed.
Super solid.
Always like your information on cams help me out a bunch 👍
That was a great video brother! I didn't know these products were out there!
Very informative! Most people would probably overlook doing this.
Great info brother
I just went out and bought a set of used heads from a new twin cam with automatic compression releases. I had them machined and matched to the jugs, this way I don't need to worry about forgetting to hit the releases if I get in a hurry and stop for gas, or something like that.
For my 2002 107" 10.8:1 I use manual compression releases and carry an extra pack with me, front one always sticks and i have to blip. For my 2002 95" 10:1 I upgraded the starter clutch to All Balls and bump start her when hot, been working for years and ring gear is still mint. I refuse to pay 2g's for S&S rocker boxes which are required for S&S heads...F*** them!
Always love the info you put out there. My 1993 EVO trike was pumped up to 10.1:1 so ordered the Wimmer release's.
I have gone thru a lot of starters and batteries over the years. Thanks for the sharing.
@@PeterAnglesto get piss ant troll's like you to comment
I got the S&S ez-start 540 cam in my 02 heritage. I have the Vance and Hines 2 inch no baffle straight drag pipes and I wanted tha chop chop lol
Look forward to your videos every week!!
Thank you!! I was a little behind this week getting the video out... had a lot of fire calls all week at work.
Thanks. Great info!!
I did S&S heads 79cc and had to use the EZ start cams because the Wimmer compression releases at that time weren't available. Those camshafts performed great. I am using Smith Brothers pushrods
Thank you so much.
The easy start cams came with the S & S 106 big bore kit that I had installed in my 2009 96 inch Twin Cam.
The amount of money people spend on engine mods after spending a boatload of money off the showroom floor is mind boggling. My two cents.
I can't say l disagree nor do l want to total up what l have spent myself on my bikes over the years 😆😬.
Stock Harley's are pathetically slow 😒
@@GixxerFoo I used to build and race hotrods down the quarter mile... it was an expensive hobby. however, it was shared by several people, which kept the costs down. back then, we could swap out a cam/lifters in an hour at minimal cost. I see people today paying north of $4000 to have an oil pump, backing plate and cam installed in their engine. I see people installing 135 ci engines in their NEW bikes along with other mandatory parts upgrades to keep from grenading. some do it for CZcams content on their channel. others do it because they drool over excessive horsepower. and when you double the power in these engines, you increase the heat inside the engine. and we all know that HD engines run way too hot! I have seen people spend north of $30,000 increasing their engine output performance. add the cost of the bike to that equation and look out! I can buy a fully loaded full-sized truck for that amount of cash. fortunately, we live in the best nation ever conceived. a place where we can do whatever we want as long as it is not illegal. : - )
@@joeplem5329 just the way I like them : - )
I have to agree to a certain extent... I agree that their engines have issues and tend to be unreliable. I have experienced it with my 2020 trike 114 that sumped and destroyed the engine. I now ride a 2023 SG with the 107. I think these engines are getting too big, which in turn creates reliability issues. This will be my last HD if the engine fails. So far, so good. With that said, there is always a sector of society whose veins require the biggest and fastest. I used to be one of those guys back in the day when I ran hemis in my race cars. But, no longer. I just want to cruise with my knees in the breeze. I have owned many cruisers including the Japanese models. They were not without their problems. One of the biggest problems is the poor factory quality. Piss poor manufacturing and sloppy constructions. I could go on and on. With all of that said, there is nothing like riding a HD. They are unique. And in my opinion, the best looking cruisers on the market. I am not a fan of the new CVO models. Time will tell if HD is on the right track or not. Time will tell. Take care :-)
When I put the ported 88 heads on my bike. They already had the manual compression releases installed in them. Just gotta remember to click em. But they work great with my big bore and cams, no problems at all.
Been watching you for years man you have great info and you're always helping us out!! appreciate it, you seem to be leaning away from the woods cams a bit!!!!! Thx much!!!
I love the Wood cams for just all out absolute power. They are very noisy though and that's not for everyone. There's a lot of great cams other than Wood, power may not be as much but it's close and they are quieter.
@@GixxerFoo yeah I hear you they are noisy but the power is not really match by anybody else S & S being the exception??? What other games do you like for a 103 bagger???
the best thing is that big bang in the exhaust pipe. I've scared so many people when I start the engine. s&s lets the mixture into the exhaust pipe when you start the engine😎👍
Im have a 2010 fatboy with a twin cam 120 rx motor s@s rotating assembly , 12.5:1 comp , s@s 675 easy start cams gear drive , roller rockers
Love those cams motor is super reliable after 26000 klms making 150 hp on 98 fuel here in Aus !
Thanks!
Thank you! I appreciate the support on the channel!
@Gixxerfoo. I love your channel and just subscribed. However, I am happy with my stock Evo on my Electra Glide. If I ever have to rebuild, I may put a cam to give it a little more torque. My evo gets me down the road pretty well as. However, I would like to say that I do learn a lot from your channel.
Woods 555 on 2007 RKC , 96 now a 107. Fuelmoto and CP Carrillo pistons. ACR done with head work by Zippers @ 10.25
$ 7000.00. 70 mph is 70 mph. Hmmm....
I milled the stock heads on my EVO ENG engine 50,000, never had a starting issue in 70,000 miles
BIG G'day from Down Under 🇦🇺💪
Love your work GixxerFoo 💪💪💪
Remember rule #1
Do Not F🤪CKING Die ❗
Safe travels 🙏♥️🐾🐾🇦🇺
I've never had a problem starting my bike with the oem starter. The problem is finding a good indie who can advise about an upcoming problem. He listens to the engine making noises that I have gotten use to.
How about discussion on benefits of leaving compression at a lower ratio?
That's not a bad idea, you can still make really good power with the right cam on the stock compression.
Thanks, GixerFoo, for doing this video including S&S Easy Start cams. Their system works much like Briggs & Stratton’s Easy Start does and I assume that Brigg’s patent has expired or S&S would likely have run into legal issues. There are a huge number of these Briggs small engines that use the Easy Start system on their camshafts with very little trouble so the extra parts concern is a bit of a red herring or at least it would be with Briggs. I’m planning on using a S&S Easy Start when I add big bore cylinders and add compression to my TC 88 as I prefer a compression release that’s automatic. Hopefully they’ll have a cam that works well for my use so I won’t have to compromise on the cam grind to get the benefit of automatic compression release.
S&S makes a damn good cam all around and plenty of power on the 88's. Wood cams are all out power and torque, but they are ridiculously noisy. S&S and that easy start system is very hard to beat in my opinion.
Tecumsah had the PIN for the release. Briggs & Stratton just had a lobe differentiation
Pretty sad when we compare our dream machines with lawn mower designs😂 hard to argue with something that works. Still funny to me🤣
I’ve installed the S&S easy start cams and they are great. I’ve only got a 96ci but even so, when hot it was not happy starting up. It was maybe the battery or the starter but I was upgrading the cams so went for the easy starts. They are excellent. There is zero load on the starter now and obviously I’ve got more air through the engine with a performance oriented cam. Two thumbs up from me 👍👍
do you happen to have a dyno chart after installing the cams? is that all you did with obviously a stage one setup, 2 into one or true duals? I ask because i too have a 96 and your right they do not like to start easy when hot and sometimes it sounds like my motor is going to come apart!! I think I am hearing the compensator yelling at me but not sure. any info helps. thanks
@@lelandhill4132 The tuning was carried out by DynoJet Research. Its a 2011 96ci engine with heavy breather and V&H short shots with the quiet baffles. The cams are the S&S Easy Start 583. The power outputs are now measured at 102 ft lbs and that is a consistent output from 2200rpm up to 3800rpm and 76bhp from 3800rpm to 4800rpm before falling off. It produces 90 ft lbs at 1800rpm so is very useable. It would produce more bhp with standard baffles but I'm more interested in the torque. After the installation the stock clutch would slip under hard acceleration so I've fitted the Barnett 9 plate clutch basket with a higher rated compression plate. The pull on the clutch lever takes a bit of getting used to but its normal for me now and there is zero slip. I may have over specified the clutch and a higher compression plate may work fine by itself. The cams are quiet and the start up is excellent. When starting from cold or hot the starter motor doesn't labour at all. When switching off there is a faint tick on the final revolution of the engine (which only I notice). I was told about this characteristic before installation and is caused by the cams decompression actuator which is designed to operate when revs fall below around 900 rpm. 👍👍
The S and S ez start cam is so reliable that Indian (I’m like 90% sure) uses compression releases built into their factory cams.
Been there, done that. 3 starters and a ring gear swap later, went and got compression releases (manual).
Separate Ignition kill switch or button. Get motor turning before you hit the spark. Eliminates the struggle and basically lets the starter run free.
@@cfmartin568 Twin cams are computer controlled. Some control units like the Daytona Twin Tech TCII have a setting to delay spark. It's a programmable number of revolutions before spark. It wont help with a hot soaked motor. Been there, done that. If the rider has the money for a big boar/high Compression hot rod motor, then the rider should have the money for all the downstream parts needed too. The bare minimum is a clutch spring upgrade, ignition controller, and compression releases.
Never occurred to just lower compression a point, or point and a half ? Bet you couldn't have felt the difference.
@@clintwoodruff1187 That's true. about 9.5/1 is a good compromise. 10 and higher is where the trouble begins for hard starts.
Gee, it almost seems like Harley created a daisy chain of money spending.
Just buy the damned thing, ride it, maintain it, and don't fall into the honey trap.
That's a topic l want to get into, it's a marketing strategy and Indian has done the same thing as well.
@@GixxerFoo
I was let go from a couple of bike, outdoor power equipment, and car mechanic shops for advising customers not to do certain things and trying to save them money.
It's all a trap to separate you from your hard earned bucks.
@@rarebreed9208
That's the world since we started having neighbors. The only good thing about neighbors is their daughters.
It's never changed.
This sounds familiar
My understanding is that my XR has higher compression than XL, starting it does one slow turn, slight hesitation, then crank once and start
Never even tried starting that low rider
You guys are focking crazy! I'm gonna get a vmax
At this point im thinking of grabbing a 90's evo then down tje road going all out on a evo crate engine.
You can't go wrong there! The cost and the way the government is pushing things it's looking more like the way to go!
Nice
Would it be a good idea to check valve seats, guides,,ect, etc? It's another case of while you're in there, why not.
I’m not to educated on Harley twins but have a lot of experience with small blocks. We always put a separate kill just on spark so we can get it turning over before we hit the ignition. Always worked great. Stock starters lasted 10x as long. Looks like you could do a Harley?
Much easier than all the other options.
Cool.
That spark plug add on compression release seems like a good idea!?!🤔
Thats why i would rather hav a shop do it. Not that I'm unable to do the work but sometimes a warranty goes a long way if its not done right. I nean if you upgrade one thing you have to ipgrade something else or else it will succumb to premature wear bc the more beefy part will be too much for other stock parts.
@@PeterAngles maybe it's bc Harleys are based upon torque and all the others are based on horsepower. Torque requires more heavy duty parts.
This is a great video and I have learned something that has confirmed a thought. S&S takes a Harley Engine and does the upgrades that it needed in the first place. On a side note high compression invites detonation with alcohol added fuels. Remember octane at the highest is 93 and is difficult to find straight gasoline at that rating in some states. 10:1 compression will run 93 pretty well but I would not go above that without an octane booster
No such thing as "pre-detonation."
@@ranchodeluxe1 Sorry, detonation.
@@semperfipar1299 Pre-ignition is an uncontrolled event in the combustion chamber prior to timed ignition. Detonation is the same, but after timed ignition.
High compression will detonate fuel on the compression stroke like a diesel.
@@semperfipar1299 Again. It's not detonation, it's pre-ignition and lots of things can cause it. You win, though. Too thick for me.
Do you have to change camshafts if you install a big bore kit?
Stage 1 M8 with turbo
I'm putting a 98" Zippers big bore kit into my 01 FXDX. They recommend a 9:5-1 compression ratio. Would you go a little higher? Do you recommend compression release for 9:5-1?
Bro, my first Harley was a monster Stage 4 100 Anniversary RK. No relieve valves, I bought it done and tell people it cost me $700 a year just to start the bike.
Even burnt out an A.B. Starter, crazy. Any way that bike is long gone on a 103 H.O. right now 👍
Was it a Harley SE stage 4 kit? SE kits that bolt on to the years that didn't have factory compression releases Harley-Davidon was careful to keep the compression lower.
@@GixxerFoo they were bolt on SE heads, bored out, 1550. Mukini (SP?) carb (That Chopper Zoo in Ft Lauderdale had to do complete disassembly, clean, rebuild). Thunderheader 2-1 complete system. Power Commander, SE Intake, I believe throttle body. Oh yeah, 18’s, Badlander seat, real nice bike. I feel that the M8 114 felt same power but not as responsive or torque. This 103 I got now is all stock right now but super impressed with it.
@@PeterAngles you said it perfect, “any kid”. So go take a seat at their table. The adults are talking about Harleys here.
entry error
I've got a 2001twin cam 88. Thinking about the big bore kit.
Any suggestions?
I can get a boat anchor at rural King for ten bucks!
performance and budget that's a tough one never cheap out building a motor
or you will be sorry if you cant afford a part wait till you can. as far as compression
learn about static and corrected on my m8 my new build is going to be 11.9.1 static
10.8.1 corrected all has to do with head cc and intake close of the cam foo make a
video on that many people don't no or understand about compression.
Roncob urn all we really need to know is that high compression brings LOTS of PROBLEMS with it for 'street bikes' ! Stock ratios are fine. If you've just GOT to have more power, there are many ways to get it besides high compression. High compression is probably the oldest most crude way to make more power. It's the first thing oldtimers did to their moonshine cars, with Flathead Ford V-8s, back in the 1930's. Gramps told me about it. Mill the heads so that it took two batteries to start them ! Caused all the same problems then that it does now. Things have moved ahead. Better ideas today
My Axtell Mountain Motor Sportster starts with the stock starter and stock Harley battery running methanol at 15.5:1. Just have to be creative with your electricals. I have mechanical releases and use them, but it starts just fine without.
@@PeterAngles Wanna race? Sturgis Drags are next week. 25 miles from here. Let's git it.
@@PeterAngles So, about as quick as a Harley Bagger. I'm impressed. Let's git it, Big Boy.
@@PeterAngles He runs 7.90s,n but trolls a Harley street bike page. Sounds believable.
@@PeterAngles How honorable of you. Enjoy your hobby. In South Dakota, that gets you a bullet in the melon.
@@PeterAngles Hard to believe a hardened killer like you isn't at Sturgis. Target rich environment for your hobby. We call them the Badlands for a reason.
03 FXD 95 inch bore, head work,10.5-1 comp, 590 lift Wood gear drive cams, Runs great but I have to push in my comp. releases or it struggles to start,
It's an extra step with manual releases but you cam seriously tear some things up in starting system not using them. 10.5:1 is a good number, Harleys are lot of mass in there to turn over.
@@GixxerFoo Joe Mondello did the heads and cryo froze heads, barrels and piston and coated combustion chamber and pistons, DarkHorse welded crank with H beam rods and Timken bearings, Wood billet rocker support and S&S premium lifters and Smith Bro pushrods. Really premium parts through out and it screams. I like the stock stroke big bore because it revs quick.
Can’t you just put a separate ignition kill so you can get motor turning before you hit the spark?
The simple way is do a cam change.
What about using a thinner head gasket for compresion increase on a 103 HO?
Is that a simple but responsable upgrade?
That's not a bad way at all to get a little compression bump, that's an excellent option if you're swapping to an aftermarket cam.
That’s what I did on my 103 HO , added 57h cams .030 head gaskets brings it up to 10:1
585 easy start cams 97 s and s kit03 superglide 103 hp 115 tor
Hello. what heads are you using and what pistons? what compression ratio. I'm interested? i have s&s 79cc heads and 585 95ci Mikuni 42 99.8/154nm. I've been thinking 97ci next. 79cc heads still work on 97ci cylinders. i have 10.7:1 now. 585 needs a lot of compression ratio. thank you?
@@mattinykanen7001 s&s 79cc heads 10.5 to 1 pistons mikuni 42mm they have got a 100inch kit now do that but i would probably use the mikuni 45mm carb and i got my numbers backwards 105 hp 113 tq.
alright. i think you can't use 79cc heads for 100ci. they don't work together. that's what I've read. one option is 106 4 1/2" stroke with 79cc heads. s&s has good customer service. you can ask there. i'm from finland. sorry for my bad english
@@mattinykanen7001 if u get the 100ci kit it comes with whatever heads u need
Ok. I just read the s&s catalog. it was said 98ci does not fit 79cc heads. here in Finland it was also said that 100ci does not work with 79cc heads. but that 97ci would be good. I don't know for sure
No
I just put hotdogs in my gas tank that’s what workS
Just going to save my money for more important things and leave my M8 stock. 10:0 : 1 compression ratio is plenty, and I already have the compression release valves in the head.
Now, there's a man with a REAL plan !
Not tring to beat you up man.. But rasie the camera back up thanks
I'll go rhythm
❤️❤️❤️❤️
"Certain Years" = 96
I wasn't calling anyone out directly lol, but you knew exactly what l meant 😆🤣👍
Wouldn't it be easier to buy another brand and get more power, reliability & durability. Oh and heaps cheaper, pretty well any brand will do.😅
DavoBatty most of them are no 'fun' to ride. That's what Harleys have that can not be outdone... even at 40 mph, they're just "fun to ride" ! The fact that they're sought after all over the world is proof of that. So, go figure. Most bike riders grow up and get a Harley, sooner or later. I've seen it happen to even the biggest critics, over the 50 years I've been enjoying them. And I always get a little chuckle when it happens... because see, I won !
@@clintwoodruff1187 scooters and fat chicks are fun to ride I'm told, but don't let your mates find out or you'll never live it down
It's amazing what a bottomless money pit a Harley-Davidson can become!
If you fall for all the bullshit.
Depends on whose 'leading', you or the motorcycle !
Just a little Red Loctite on the plug..... hahahahaha
Not a fan of the easy start cams & I wouldn't put that wimmer piece of shit in any of my customers bikes . I raise compression with pistons, head milling ,& cosmetic MLS head gaskets available in .030 & .040 for all Harley engines . Cosmetic also has a selection of thin base gaskets for shovels & Evos .
So he shows a Dyno chart of a Mystery Motor no clue what engine it is or how many Cubic Inches it is ???
OR... you could by an Indian and make more power stock, then you dont have to tear it apart and screw it up.
Easy buy a real bike like a japanese one, they run forever with basic maintenance and do not need upgrades on 20k bike new to make it run right and safe.
Has anybody else used lock tite on their spark plugs? Asking for a friend.
But a Honda, problem solved, every Harley is crap and will lose oil in weeks, they are low quality bikes
"Easily preventable", right. As in, leave it stock, or close to it !
Don't kid yourself ! The minute you start racing a bike around, is the minute you start tearing crap up ! Tearing it up, wearing it out super fast or just plain damn CRASHING IT !! Up to you, but don't kid yourself.
U nless you have a buddy with a bike just like yours, and you and he race all the time, and you're fanatical about beating him by 5 or 6 feet down the block, or you're racing at the track, ALL OF THIS STUFF IS A HUGE WASTE OF Money !,!! (By the thousands! )
When you get done with everything he has suggested, your bike will run hotter, be harder to start, vibrate everything more, give you very little bit more in performance, so little more you won't even notice it without a dyno. It will simply move your power band higher up in the rpm range, so that you have to Rev it higher to do basically what it will do without all that... AND you will have spent enough money to "burn a wet mule", in the process.
Been doin' Sportsters since 1974, currently ride a 2009 Nightster 1200. Now let me save you many thousands, keep great down low 'usable' power for 'riding, run cooler, start easier, get better gas mileage, and embarrass your buddy. DON' T DO ANY OF THAT CRAP !
Look for a proven exhaust. Not just a '' loud" exhaust, but one with proper 'back pressure' to induce great bottom end torque. Now get a 'free flowing' air cleaner. A little larger fuel line, and Pingle petcock will help if you're running a carb. Carb or injection, of course, you have to get your MIXTURE CORRECT... Ultra important !! CLOSE, WON'T DUE !
Now you need to raise your gear ratio a little ! Because the stock cams are designed to put the power out way down low. And you have just increased that 'output' even more with your changes. To take advantage of that, you must raise the gear ratio, otherwise, when you twist the throttle, you're already 'on top ' of your power output, (kind of, sort of) If you go a couple teeth smaller on your rear pulley, or a couple bigger on the front pulley ( trans) Or if you've converted to chain, maybe 3 teeth smaller on rear, or one tooth bigger on trans sprocket, you are going to find a world many Harley riders never experience. First, you'll realize your bike has more power to tap for very little money, than you ever thought possible. But it's imperative that you raise your gear ratio to reap the benefits you want ! Next, ALL of your bike's components will last thousands of miles longer. If you study the dyno charts on bikes with these horribly expensive mods, you'll see things like a 4 horsepower gain AT 6500 / 6800 rpm, plus usually a corresponding loss in the rpm range you usually ride in. Go ahead, crank those rpms up - blow that fu*'*, er all over the street ! New motor probably only set you back $6000.00, or so.
Moral of the story... make the most of what you have, before you go out and blow many thousands on stuff you' ll barely feel, if you feel anything positive at all, without a dyno.
Good luck, watch for the 'turners' at intersections, and RUBBER DOWN,
THROTTLE UP !
For us "novices"....Leave 'em stock! Upgrades to be "cool" is a serious waste of money...why else would anyone in their right mind do them?? The 2017-18 107's with oil pump sump "issue" caused catastrophic engine failures...was primarily due to engine upgrades in HP, torque and related nonsense...with HD abandoning customers with broke dick engines. The increased demand placed on factory std oil pump was too much creating oil starvation-cavitation in lower end. Yeah you can "upgrade" again to what is it...the 2020 factory pump with the HP upgrades and "survive"....but why compromise the factory engineered oem package???