Really beautiful, meticulous methods and work. Thank you for teaching me how to do it properly. Chuckling at the guys saying it will take too long. Yeah, that's why most houses these days, especially the finish carpentry, are low quality, because those guys are doing the work.
This video was created for students in a finish carpentry class. Some of the methods may be modified if you do not have access to the same tools. The highest quality standards are taught, and may not reflect typical entry level housing.
Never cross your hands when using a miter saw!! For example, if working to right of the blade, the right hand holds the work piece and the left hand operates the saw. Anyway thank you for the video.
Question: Not a criticism because I don't know, but most videos I've seen have the vertical casings riding under the top and over the bottom casings. Does it make any difference? If I'm making my question clear. Otherwise, your job looks great and very good instruction.
Take the smallest measurement of the four jamb extension measurements that you took and cut the jamb using that measurement. This way you are guarenteed that it fits. You can always install a small piece of molding around the inside where the window unit meets the jamb if there are signifigant gaps. Your method works well if you only have a few Windows to do but if you're doing 15+ windows your method would take weeks
Just curious, Im doing the same thing now. Is there a difference between pre-puilding the entire square jamb vs just installing on piece at a time to make the square on window frame?
Do the sides first then top and bottom, it may be a challenge to pre build it and install it. Might as well do it piece by piece, it doesn't save much if any time to pre build. Unless your doing a ton of windows and they are exactly the same
@@GBall_Vision Thanks! I did just that today, left/right then top. I think I answered my own question in my folly. If the jamb isnt square, you will compensate for this later by trying to level/square trim with reveal..... Luckily, Im doing craftsman style (no miter cuts). So it isnt noticeable. Great video. Very detailed and helpful!
Prebuilding the jamb extensions allows the pieces to be glued and nailed together in the corners so they are less likely to be twisted or out of square or uneven.
I make my own extension jambs for the windows and put about a 3 to 4 degree bevel on them with the jointer. If you buy interior door jamb material it is typically beveled.
Overkill! Mill shop equipment rather than in house tools. Plus I find it strange that in his shop his table saw and chop saw don't have off bearing tables.
Really beautiful, meticulous methods and work. Thank you for teaching me how to do it properly.
Chuckling at the guys saying it will take too long. Yeah, that's why most houses these days, especially the finish carpentry, are low quality, because those guys are doing the work.
This video was created for students in a finish carpentry class. Some of the methods may be modified if you do not have access to the same tools. The highest quality standards are taught, and may not reflect typical entry level housing.
Appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge and detail of this process. Very helpful.
Very mathematically correct . Learnt a lot , thank you for upload .
Your inside trim at the bottom is a stool & it butts into the jam & sill which extends to the outside.
Nice shop!
What happened to all the table saw safety equipment, such as a riving knife and push stick?
Personally like to attach jamb and trim as one unit then nail it in thru trim and float the jamb
Never cross your hands when using a miter saw!! For example, if working to right of the blade, the right hand holds the work piece and the left hand operates the saw. Anyway thank you for the video.
Question: Not a criticism because I don't know, but most videos I've seen have the vertical casings riding under the top and over the bottom casings. Does it make any difference? If I'm making my question clear. Otherwise, your job looks great and very good instruction.
It does not make any difference. It is easier to cut and keep square if you only have to deal with two lengths.
I assume you are referring to the jambs, not the casings.
Excellent explanation
Take the smallest measurement of the four jamb extension measurements that you took and cut the jamb using that measurement. This way you are guarenteed that it fits. You can always install a small piece of molding around the inside where the window unit meets the jamb if there are signifigant gaps. Your method works well if you only have a few Windows to do but if you're doing 15+ windows your method would take weeks
The first window may take some time, but like all things, practice makes perfect. I could do all of them in one day.
This is helpful thank you
You need a track saw, easy to use at job site. Hard to take that jointer to your build
Saws tend to chip and splinter the wood surface. I have a small jointer for the jobsite and also a hand power plane.
Completely lost yet every window in my house needs this … maybe I should hire someone. ..
How'd it go?
What does tipping your casing do when cutting it?
It makes the two pieces fit perfectly. Always works if you tip it the correct amount. No whittling or planing the joint to make it fit.
Thanks for making this tutorial
Just curious, Im doing the same thing now. Is there a difference between pre-puilding the entire square jamb vs just installing on piece at a time to make the square on window frame?
Do the sides first then top and bottom, it may be a challenge to pre build it and install it. Might as well do it piece by piece, it doesn't save much if any time to pre build. Unless your doing a ton of windows and they are exactly the same
@@GBall_Vision Thanks! I did just that today, left/right then top. I think I answered my own question in my folly. If the jamb isnt square, you will compensate for this later by trying to level/square trim with reveal..... Luckily, Im doing craftsman style (no miter cuts). So it isnt noticeable. Great video. Very detailed and helpful!
Prebuilding the jamb extensions allows the pieces to be glued and nailed together in the corners so they are less likely to be twisted or out of square or uneven.
What's the best way to taper the jambs in the field, an electric hand planer?
I like to have a small jointer on site, but a hand planer can be used. It is a little more difficult to be accurate.
Are you saying stock wood has beveled edges?
I make my own extension jambs for the windows and put about a 3 to 4 degree bevel on them with the jointer. If you buy interior door jamb material it is typically beveled.
@@RB-rf3qi Thanks! I didn’t know that.
Overkill! Mill shop equipment rather than in house tools. Plus I find it strange that in his shop his table saw and chop saw don't have off bearing tables.
- Yes I don’t own a planer like his. So I wonder how to taper my cuts without one?
Hearing protection and safety glasses🤔
Your method allows aot of mistakes to happened. Plus that method takes too much time.
The joiner noise hurt my ears from the video. The miter saw wasn't much better. The noise has got to be worse for you without hearing protection
All that work and time for one window and you could have just ordered the window with the jamb already on. Smh no reason to waste this much time
I’m making custom frames. It’d cost a fortune to buy prefab and then they wouldn’t fit since all my windows have different measurements.