WHAT TO DO WHEN WALL STICKS OUT PAST DOOR JAMB!
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- čas přidán 20. 06. 2019
- Most people are happy to do their best and caulk the rest. For me , that just won't do in this case. Here is how I chose to handle it.
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I've found that tearing down the house and starting over with the mistake in mind will prevent it from happening during the new build.
Lmfao
Good thinkin !!
LOL
Tear it down to the studs and if that isn't enough tear it all down break the concrete foundation and start fresh.
LMFAO
Yes , yes that's how it's done. Just look out for new mistakes!!!
I really appreciate how you don't edit out those moments when your camera guy offers advice, and when you make subtle mistakes. Very helpful way to produce a video like this. Thank you.
It’s pathetic
Like you.
Use an oscillating flush cutting tool instead of the flat bars... that provides much more cutting control, doesn't fracture the drywall, and you end up with a flat surface to which to apply the casing. ...and it takes a fraction of the time with a fraction of the effort.
Great idea thx!
Did this last week on my project using my multi-tool. Turned out great.
It never hurts to watch how others tackle common problems. Shared knowledge makes us better at what we do. Saves us time involved in the trial and error method. Hats off Brother.
In building a home .. The problem tackled him .. Sharing stupidity is not sharing knowledge
I appreciate your humble attitude and recognizing that you can learn even while you're teaching. Very important
You get a hammer and bash the wall until the trim fits. Estimated time: 17.4 seconds.
That's what my Eastwing was designed for. Beating the shiznit out of it and moving on. Next!
I second to that one
This is also my solution.
🤣😂🤣
@@samoanSAIYAN how come you laughing? What would you do? Lol
Or you could use your table saw to run a small channel in the back of the trim so it relieves the spot where the wall bumps out. That way you get full reveal on the trim sides
Everytime I need drywall help, your videos appear, and your suggestions are absolutely gold. I also just want to say it's great that you leave your mistakes in the videos and speak to them. Helps me avoid the same!
Hey appreciate you being real about the hammer trick. Easy to forget stuff. Enjoy your channel, thanks for putting them up .
When I have this problem, i plane the back of the architrave to create a rebate, because if the wall is masonry you can't easily chop it out
Eggzackly. That's what power planners are for. Seems that the chippie who put the door lining in canted it off plumb so on the other side of the partition the lining will protrude. Take the fixing out and reinstate it plum.
@@Saxondog Do you actually know how to hang a door? If the door was hung properly all 4 corners are in the same plane so that it closes properly. If the 4 corners of the wall aren't all in the same plane it's impossible to have the door match up to the wall and still close properly. Or maybe the problem in this case is that the door was installed plumb when the wall isn't plumb.
That's the proper way to do it
Looks like the walls made of metal stud and the liner put the door header in wrong with the wrong screws causing the plaster board to be proud at the door frame corners ,I
All ways mitre the stud and fix from the inside the you don't get that problem
@@stevepseudonym445 Yes mate I can hang a door. It's very unlikely that the wall or stud is gonna be that far out of plumb.
Do you know how to fix a door lining. ?
Love the fact that you showed us how even you guys that know so much are always learning too! Refreshing to see a humble pro!!
Vancouver, you are my hero!! I was having trouble thinning down the drywall in an area that wasn't flat enough for my tile job. So a big thank you to you for showing me how!
I often learn more from the comments... that's why these videos are so helpful
I have a 50 year old home with a cement/plaster board combo for the walls. No wall is the same especially around doors. I was going to do the same thing on one occasion, but instead added wood strips to the door jamb. I then applied spackling prior to painting and you would never know there was strips of wood.
I have the same walls. Going to try this. Thx
I just grind back of the molding.
I’m a “strip” kinda guy too. Way less work and mess. Especially if the casing/ jamb is the same finish and the wall is a contrasting finish. The thinner casing reveal from the rest of the doors in the room/ hall will pop out.
Bravo for having the humility to keep the helpful filmer suggestion in the video!
Great tip! I just ran into this problem today while renovating my house and remembered I saw ur video awhile back while binge watch your channel, watched it again to refresh my memory and BAM got beautiful trim thanks to you! 👍🏻 love your channel man!
@chris widney only thing I did different was I didnt smash the sheetrock I left it as is and took a 2 1/2 in chisel and just shaved it flush with the casing, I was only about a 1/4 inch off to start so mine came out great, after caulk u can't tell a thing, I will say if it's really off I'd just Rip everything out and redo it right
My first time ever doing construction, my first boss taught me to never hammer tools with your hands. He said you will regret it when your old like him.
I just want to echo and reinforce this message, I learned the same lesson but in the context of the kitchen, crushing garlic like a showoff. Our carpal bones aren't resilient to repetitive impact.
Also guilty here. My grandfather would say. "Don't use your hand as a hammer."
My palms hurt with the slightest tap after 25 years
I'm sorry, however where was or where did you are raise its head in this conversation?
My first construction boss told me the exact same thing.
I am so glad you let the assistant’s comment in the video. It shows it is good to be humble and accept good ideas from where they may come, and to give credit where credit is due.
Thanks for including the "mistakes" and aha moment like the cameraman's suggestion. Really displays your humility.
I watched your vid to solve this problem last week to install a solid core door. Instead of glaziers bar, I used an oscillating saw. I then put a thin coat of hot mud and tape to strengthen the where I cut the wall. Thank you for the great video! Thanks Ben!
I never done it this way, usually I use a filler piece of wood, nail it and then caulk it.
Frankie 431 🤢🤢
Alexander 😂😂
@@Frankie431 yeah frankie, i think that your way is more proper way of doing it. Also i do the filling on the inside of the room, cause if i have more than one door on the outside of the room and u fill one, but others dont need the filled, then it wont look rite
@Woodcock Johnson you sir are correct
@Woodcock Johnson true on the jam prob installed crooked but sometimes it's the framing and the drywaller has no time to fix f up framing. Then what do you do?
Archimedes said “give me glue and hammer, and a place to stand, and I can botch any job.”
😂🤣😅
This is a nifty trick, I learned something today. I can see a multi tool working really well to make this a lot cleaner
I recently found your channel. I really appreciate your tips and tricks! I grew up doing home projects as a kid so I know a good bit about how to do this stuff. Though it’s good to see the “carpenters method” of doing it. We are currently finishing our unfinished basement and I plan to keep a lot of your drywall tips in mind as we do. Thanks!
Good job bro. Been doing this for 40+ yrs and never thought of that. Goes to show,you learn something new every day!
🤣
thanks so much for this video. i have this same problem with the drywall sitting out too far, and my molding has just been sitting in the corner. i tried taking it down with a rasp, but it didn't help so i am so grateful you posted this. i am a 71 year old woman, and not a pro redoing a whole 100 year old house by myself, and i need all the help i can get. thanks, and be blessed
Well he fooled someone 😂
Get wider trim boards and make your life easier. If you don't have the proper tools to rip the boards and plane them to width than maybe you shouldn't be doing it.
I know this video isn’t old, but like all of your videos, it’s filled with expert advice. Thank you for all of your time doing these.
I appreciate that!
Of course I meant to say this video isn't new....... But you know what I meant. Thanks again great stuff
Hey Man... you took the tip onboard with the right attitude which makes working with you fun. A lot a people don't and it makes for a stressful day at the office. I like your style. Thanks for sharing. John - Sydney Australia
I go straight to the hammer. No scribing or cutting needed. The framers don't get the door and window headers flush with the studs because they probably build the wall with the interior face down on the floor, make sure the outside (that they have to sheet) isn't protruding out, stand it up and call it good.
I considered using this method to solve my problem for about a minute. I didn’t like the thought of removing my drywall permanently and I didn’t like the thought of the recessed trim into the wall. Not a good look. I think the better choice is to use a jamb extension (1/4” lattice in my case) to bring the casing flush with the wall giving a more uniform look and retaining the thickness of the casing. If I had chosen the fix mentioned in the video, it would have compounded my problem with the future wainscoting that was to be installed. This video is not a good remedy for the problem but I suppose it may have a use in some cases. Consider using a jamb extension.
In the case of the margin being uniformly out around the frame absolutely.
Personally I’d rather leave the gap and caulk and paint as it’s just one corner. Regardless, either is better than cutting the Sheetrock back unless there’s no other option.
The reason for this is because in my case a 2x6 isn't done right. I've seen them range 1/8" different for thickness, width and length. Even precut studs.
Thank you for this video!! I’m renovating a house with my dad and ran into this problem. It stumped us both so I came to CZcams to find answers (like a true diy project lol) this is very helpful!!!
The "eureka moment" LOL!!!! We've all been there man!!! Informative video. Thanks!!!
It would bug me seeing my trim disappear into the wall from floor to ceiling.
It did for the first day or two but now I dont see it, none of my guests notice it either unless i point to it
When wall is out of plumb it gets funky. U could take a block of wood and smack jamb over then take hinge pin out and bend it so door doesn’t swing closed of opened. Best to do what u got to do.
Exactly!!!!!
See, it's the walls fault to make this bug, so you take it out on the root cause! doesn't straight trim look better.
I like how he added that little tidbit about caulking at the end. The moment he mentioned cutting the drywall out i started internally screaming "Just caulk the f###er and move on". The explanation made a lot of sense. I'll have to remember this trick.
Caulking big gaps in your door trim will eventually fault. Especially if it's a heavily used door that gets slammed a lot
@@blackmatterlives9865 not if you pre fill with foam.
Lol, it always happens. You're doing a job and your mate comes up with a better way! Always learning for us all.
You are humble. A good worker and open to good suggestions. Keep up the good work. Like .
VC love 99% of your videos do to your workmanship, quality, and reliability. Scratching my head on this one though.
VC, you have a solution for every friggin' problem I currently have in my house. I can't thank you enough for making these videos!
I'm doing a remodel on a kitchen in a rental unit so your channel came up in my feed. I'm watching this and I'm like, "Isn't that the skateboarder?" LOL, now I'm subscribed to both channels.
Just used this a few days ago, thanks for the great advice!
I ran into this problem when I installed wainscoting on an entire wall. I had a 1/4" gap on the door and window jambs. I just cut 1/4" strips and extended the jambs. I had to caulk a few spots and sand but overall it turned out nice after paint. No way I'm ripping drywall 😂 I guess if it works
Shane Michael well that’s what your supposed to do unless you ordered the jambs 1/4” wider. There isn’t much else you can do
Long walk for a short drink of water.
You can't sand caulk. I'd be interested to hear from any painters about your ''solution."
michael charest that’s what I do. Just caulk.
I personally would have put a 1/4 inch filler between the casing and the door jam. Those thin strips are available at any home improvement store. Then, you would not have to hack away at the wall.
That works great if you have a uniform gap that's the right size. And if you don't mind the 2 extra seams. And if you either bring an assortment just in case or don't mind going to get them once you know what you need.
I do a furring strip or roll the miter
Have cut shim stock down to match incline glued, installed trim and painted. Not noticeable once painted
Paint stirrer would likely have done the trick to fill that gap. Or a 3' wooden ruler trimmed to length.
Awesome to see a professional that knows how to take criticism.
I've got that problem in my front door and didn't know how to handle it. Great idea thanks!
I like the regular guy approach to this where you get the idea, and then improvise to make it work in your own situation
Teachers pet.
Great fix Ben. I’ve, rabbeted, Cut drywall and patched in filler pieces. Each situation is different and this is a great video for how to cut the drywall. Thank you
Yup. Every situation is different. If it's a long consistent gap rabbets and filler strips work great too.
Thank you very much for your very helpful videos!! I had this problem and also the problem shown in your other video, where the door (in my case window) jamb sticks out. Both of your methods worked great! I really appreciate your help with this. BTW I used a utility knife to score the outline and then an old chisel to remove the paper and gypsum. The chisel made it easy to see how much to remove to be in line with the jamb. It's probably not the fastest method but that was not a problem for the two small sections I had to do.
All your videos are wonderful! Love the easy to digest straightforward answers that breakdown the basics to any given task while also showing some unconventional methods along the way. Your comparisons of techniques and approachable attitude inject that much needed confidence to push through any learning curves to master a seemingly impossible task. Showing your “mistakes” and “afterthoughts” is a welcomed touch that legitimizes your advice and gives permission to newcomers to embrace hurdles as the learning moments they prove to be.
Thanks man! Again! Soo many times lately through my renovation project I've been mulling over how I'm going to attack different problems and you just keep posting the answers up right before I have get into it. Cheers
Here's the rub. If you do this and then paint your trim a contrasting colour to your walls the difference in the edge thickness of your trim around the periphery is going to stick out like a sore thumb. I know this because I have two door jambs that were done this way and they look like hell. This method also weakens the drywall and if the trim is ever removed and replaced with a narrower trim you are going to have to do drywall repair. You would be better off to shim the trim to the jamb and then fill the void with a water based caulking that is paintable. Yes, the difference will still show but it will be less noticeable since the trim and jamb are painted the same colour.
As far as stain grade trim is concerned, another method is to dado out the reverse side of the trim on a table saw leaving the inner and outer edges intact. The trough on the reverse side of the trim will allow the trim to sit down flat on both surfaces concealing the surface elevation differences.
After watching this video and it's preceding video showing the other side of this particular door jamb, I am cancelling my subscription to this channel. Why? Because I have little tolerance for those who use poorly conceived tricks to cover up bad workmanship and then teach these same "Cheats" to others. The simplest way is usually the best and the simplest way is to do it right the first time.
Well said my man .... also the other problem is that the architrave will be thinner meaning that where the skirting board (baseboard) meets the architrave the joint will be terrible with a thicker skirting
I disagree with you that you think a thick caulking bead is a better solution.I think it looks like a cheap quick fix.I do agree with you that the best option would be to dado the trim to make it fit perfectly however the method shown in the video is used in commercial settings all the time and I think you're being a little harsh on the guy because you disagree with one of his vids!I have watched many and they are well done,with many awesome tips for not only the beginner but also tradesmen looking for new and different ideas.
@@Colpens agreed
I am a Commercial carpenter from Uk - so what happens when the 18mm thick skirting meets the architrave which is now only say 9mm off the wall???
@@Colpens bevel the edge, and call it a day? lol
I’m glad I found this channel, thanks
Just used this method! So glad I saw this video. Thanks!
What the hell did i just watch... never do this... ever.. omg
Instead of saying this why don’t you provide a better solution that doesn’t involve gobs of caulk or tearing down a wall?
@@dennispope8160 roll the edge.
@@dennispope8160 Billy is right, the pro adds a small filler strip, they are made prefab in a plethora of dimensions with two sides painted, just for this.
@@sebbef82 Filler strips are just another joint that look bad unless you do a reveal on the jamb and then a reveal on the strip for the casing which still looks awkward, this method he showed is a good method. We just don't cut the drywall where the edge of the casing sits, we leave 1/2" of the drywall for the edge of the casing to rest on and then shave the drywall flush with the jamb. Works like a charm every time.
Dude, for fucking realz
So much easier back cutting the trim on the table saw
WTF?
I use an cordless planner to back of the timber .. Results in a perfect fit .And the gyprock retains its full structural integrity.
It all depends on what tools you are familiar with.
All you non builders should just 🤫
@@kashmoni1085 I have been a finish carpenter for 25 years. The last thing you want to do is take out the structure of the drywall.
You are great! I love your channel and your humor.
I used your method with great results. Thanks for sharing
You get a 10 for having the nerve to actually post this; a 1 for everything else.
And if that doesn't work....just get a bigger hammer!!!
i would probably use an oscillating multi tool to back cut , Thnx for all the gr8 vid's by the way !
🤣 Love the honesty and humour!
Thanks for sharing. Don't know how this video came up but I have had this happen to me where the wall sticks out past the door slab. I used a large paint stir stick to fix the problem. Stuck the stir stick in scribed it with a utility knife and went from there. Thanks for sharing.
Extend the lining.
Rebate the architrave
Plant a strip on the inside edge of the arch.
Any of those is preferred over digging out plasterboard.
As a carpenter myself, this is absolutely positively NOT how you overcome this problem. Taking the time to adjust the lining instead of butchering someone's wall is the tradesman way around this
Can you explain the lining part?
The lining is the jamb
So how would you fix this yourself?
Thanks so much, about to do some maintenance on a couple of timber door frames, so these tips will come in handy 😊😊😊
nothing wrong to learn a thing or two, I am always smarter in the evening then I was in in the morning. :-) thanks for the vid.
Reframe the opening with proper lumber,like it should have been done to start with.
Agreed get it rite from start
I have watched a lot of your videos, and usually I think your work is really solid. I am anal about drywall as an ex-handyman and a homeowner that does his own work on a crappy house. I would be quite upset if I found this behind the trim. Just back cut the trim or extend the frame... Way less work for the next guy...
I agree....this was butchery of the highest order. Imagine someone in the future decided to change doors and chose a smaller style casing 🙈🙈. And if the wood warps or shrinks by even a little it will look like a botch job.
@@jessejameson154 WHO CARES ABOUT THE NEXT OWNER
Crushing the drywall is the method that I see being used the most. But, they don’t peel off the paper, they just hammer the drywall until it is even with the casing. It’s quick, a lot less work and the casing isn’t recessed into the drywall.
Great video. I have house full of this I am going to tackle this spring.
Since the jamb and the molding are white or painted it's would have looked fine to install the jamb and caulk that gap. After smoothing out the caulk it would not have been hardly noticeable.
A drywall rasp works better for shaving the gypsum after you've peeled the paper layer off. I use the same technic when I install windows and doors
Thank you so much! I have a 10' window in the most uneven wall in the world, the drywall goes from flush in the center to completely sticking out toward the ends (5/8" past the window frame!). It's been untamed for months because I had no idea how to deal with it. You're my hero!
I used this technique the day after I first saw this video. It works really well.
I just run my knife and cut the drywall at an angle towards the door, works good for me. Saw it on another video
you doing it the RIGHT way, I used to work as a punch guy, fixing up the other "fast" carpenters work, those other guys hated me ...I just simply thanked them for providing me job security!
Ok, but grammar?
Lol not the right way, holy fuck.
@@johndimambro6901 What are you babbling about, John?
@@johndimambro6901 Exactly! Drywall guy here who cringed while watching this. What areas in the home are most prone to crack? Corners of windows and doors. Marginalizing the strength of the sheetrock in that very area by crushing it and potentially creating hairline cracks inside the drywall that may one day manifest into a 20” crack on the surface is amateur hour.
I got into this the order day and used my oscillating tool. Works great for me and fast
This video perfectly solved my problem. THANK YOU!
On my own house, I just don't install the trim. You get used to looking at it after a while and can go do some other things.
this guys lame game is next level, i love it. *edit, also thank you for not editing out the camera mans suggestion, most people would probably have just edited the vid out of SHAME!!!! love it.
Can you use edit again for grammar-purposes??
THANK YOU I have a front door I have avoided trimming because I wasn't sure how to do it ... it is pretty bad ... worse than what you showed ... at least now I have a place to start from ... again. THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!
Great job on this lesson. Thank you
I really wouldn't call this a trick, its more of an extreme hack.
Bodge you mean.
Quite common method on remodels, not sure why you call it a hack.
Do you have a better suggestion?
Yes! (roll the miter). Shim it on the saw so you’re cutting the trim nested and miter will be perfect and gap will disappear.
@@terryburgess6637 a lot of people don't know that. Do a CZcams teaching them. It is a really good way to solve the problem and looks really good and leaves a good reveal on the casing edge!
Add to 1/4” strip to door jamb,Done
That's nasty
Dollar store utility blade? Matches the carpenter. It's a shame people think that he is a pro and follow his tips.
@@mikeoconnell4229 He's a pro because he makes a living doing it, even if he isn't an expert in every area. He has a lot of good info, especially for beginners. Come off your high horse. Most people just want to do a decent job, not impress everyone with their perfection.
Jamesy, no one is perfect, if your going to teach you at least know what your doing. He is a actor-poser as we see on all the fixer upper tv shows.its a shame to mislead people with his skill set.
I use strips if Im not removing the old frame, but if the frame is replaced Id make a frame to the correct width then hang the door. When do hack jobs like this you have other issues with base mouldings, chair rail, etc.
This really helped my job. Thanks!
I did this to about five doors in an older house with plastered walls I used an angle grinder to wear the high spots down after I scribed my lines and it made a nice smooth surface
Lol what a brilliant idea!
Do you know what would my mom do to me if i did like that? She would definitely call the police and kick me out of the house 😂
🤣😂
let me ask you a question if I may... did you check the door jamb for Plumb and level first.? including hanging the door and adjusting?. this all starts with the hinge side of the jam and the header being level...
if the door jamb is not right ,grab the Sawzall cut it out and reset it the way it should be. who cares about the casing looking right if a door won't close or has big gaps in it
A number of years ago I had a similar problem, an offset of 3/8 on both sides near the floor. It created a gap between the trim and jamb just like in the video (French doors that were installed poorly). I thought about repairing my 3/8 offset like the video, but because it would be set so deep into the wall, I chose to do it differently.
To do this you need to use solid wood trim (not the cheap crap that's glued together pieces). I cut and removed the drywall back 2 inches away from the door jamb up both sides until the wall was flush with the jamb near the top of the frame. Then laid the trim so that 1/4 inch was on the drywall and 1/4 was on the door jamb (trim width 2-1/2 inches). The trim lays on an angle over the gap made by the removed drywall. I nailed my trim just like the video starting at the top and working my way down drawing it tight to the door jamb and the wall. It worked beautifully and even to me it's hardly noticeable. I didn't have to deal with a mitered corner, but it should work in the same scenario as the video. Just an alternative way of doing it that might help someone in the future.
BTW, thanks for the great videos that help provide solutions for us DIYers.
Thanks a ton!!! The little hints like holding the gun sideways are the things that us amateurs don't know.
A possible improvement on this method, which would reduce how much drywall you have to remove, would be to remove some material from the backside of the casing by running the backside over a tablesaw blade set about 1/16" or 1/8" high or so. Slowly remove material from the backside, essentially increasing the amount removed by the manufacturer of the casing. Watch your mitre though, you may have to "roll" the casing in a bit.
Whoops , I see my comment is redundant bc I failed to scroll down to yours …
Your suggestion works for sure; however, I believe it is beyond the "comfort level" of the do it yourself guy/gal. The overwhelming majority of people only know how to rip boards on a table saw and most of them can't even do that safely. Maybe a flush-cut tool might be an option.
@@christopherpavlicas Very good point !
Not sure why you're getting all this hate. I've had this problem and it's incredibly frustrating. I think the method you demonstrated, especially with stain-grade trim, is best practice if your walls are out of plane with your jamb. Quality videos, thank you!
Brian Klik
What he did is definitely not best practice for more than a couple reasons
Great Trick!
You had me at Super Butch piano hands👍🏼
Helpful information, thank you for sharing !
But now you've lost 1/4" of the trim into the wall. It doesn't look right.
Looks better that the alternative though. Thats building work for you, someone else does a f*** up you come in and have to deal with it
a good carpenter often is good at creating an Illusion to make it appear straight, thus chopping away the drywall and sinking in the trim at just the right depth does creates an excellent illusion , especially after caulking. I often carry some quick dry spackle to cover up any mistakes rather than caulk, since the caulking is often left to the painters.
I would shim in back of the trim with wooden shims where I would nail it then just chalk it or if you really want it perfect remove the whole door jam see what you need to do to correct it, because smashing the drywall weakens the integrity of the sheetrock, then when you nail on casing it crumbles and crack the sheetrock in back of the casing
i think i would have done that too. just needed it along the top and a little on the side. It's getting caulk anyway.
Love watching your videos very helpful
Thank you 20 doors in some low end apartments. Also that little tidbit about the nail gun my God thank you
My phone is monitoring my conversations, it came up with a solution that I did not even search up yet.
The best and most pro way is to build out the jamb. But leaving the gap and caulking is better.
Now the uneven trim will be noticed from across the room
You might see it from across the room, but the average customer is clueless to seeing that.
Being that most new jambs have an eased edge. Building the jamb out leaves a map line unless you spend an hour puttying and sanding it.
Scribing a line on the outside of the casing and then scoring about a 1/4" in let's you beat the drywall down with a hammer and block.
The casing usually fits well afterword.
@@keithtomczyk4730 I've always done casings like you, there certainly are a lot of people commenting on this page that really have never done any amount of trim and it's almost hard to read their comments. It's sad to see you only have one thumbs up (from me) so far.
@@chrisingram7277 Thanks Chris.
I've been a real carpenter for over 35 yrs.
We all learn different techniques along our career,but you just have to remember.
Carpentry is nothing but common sense in a calculator at times.
you wouldn't believe some of the vloggers on YT. They give more misinformation than the better.
Yes your correct. I would rather build out and have a two step margin looks alot better
Literally dealing with this now. Thanks!
I have just used my undercutting tool (oscillating saw) to gently cut up into the drywall after scribing the paper. The saw blade sits on the inside frame so you know you are getting the correct depth. Other days I just use latex caulk on the gap between the frame and the casing board.