How To Install Door Trim: Beginner to Level 10 Pro!
Vložit
- čas přidán 14. 12. 2023
- Everything you will ever need to know about trimming out doors!
Table Saw Push Block: amzlink.to/az0tMIQEIR8FM
Titan Pry Bar: amzlink.to/az041XaQggtgu
Dewalt Chop Saw: amzlink.to/az0vnQUWiiRCG
Dewalt 18g Nail Gun: amzlink.to/az06z4WTDCgs7
Ca Glue Thick: amzlink.to/az0nGwHF2enC3
Ca Accelerator: amzlink.to/az0i0aGBbOofN
Canadian Links:
Table Saw Push Block: amzn.to/47XwMZz
Dewalt Chop Saw: amzn.to/47XwMZz
Dewalt 18g Nail Gun: amzn.to/472PNsj
DISCLAIMER: This description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links and purchase something, I’ll receive a small commission.
Thanks for watching and helping support the channel:) - Jak na to + styl
Been a carpenter for over fifty years and this is the first video that shows exactly how I do it. I even learned one new thing. Thanks. Your explanation skills are very good.
One more tip☝️ We get all our trim precut, some with miters already done, top part fit as is, sides are a bit to long, 2" or so.. So you set your top part where it should be. And the sides you turn upside down, putting the miter point to the floor, then you mark the top of your top piece on that side piece and cut it 90°. Turn it around and nail it in place. That way you have taken the 2 out of 3 measuring steps out of the equation 🎉
You're probably the experienced tradesman on CZcams who's the best at not taking the little steps for granted. Great job.
tried the level 10 and got great results. Thanks for all your great videos!
Level 11 results: on a big flat work table, arrange all 3 door trim pieces. Use 2-part ca spray glue to immediately bond the 45 degree angles exactly. The gaps will vanish. Carry the entire assembly over to your door frame and brad nail in place, shim between the wall and trim as necessary. Caulk joints to finish. Faster, easier, cleaner than futzing around adjusting and installing the 3 pieces individually.
Love the line up with saw trick. I always struggle measuring from short side.
Nice work. I work on a production trim crew. Mostly new construction. Speed is crucial but we have to do nice work. Our system for doors is based on the door slabs and jambs being identical for a given size. They almost always are. We cut all the casing to the same dimensions. We gang cut the straight ends if it's MDF, probably 6 at a time. All miters are cut individually. Often we'll put a slight bit of torque on the saw to create a subtle angle to help the exposed edges of the miter touch each other more easily. We do everything from left to right, so the left leg goes on first, then the left side of the header, then the right side of the header and right leg. It's super fast cause we eyeball the reveals, no measuring and marking, and never any gaps to the flooring. Instead of shims we hold a thin, narrow putty knife behind the casing to help with alignment. Pin things up, slide out the knife and everything stays put. It's a super fast system, and we only get compliments, never complaints. Just our way. Having a holster for your wood glue bottle speeds things up as well.
I like it🍻
CA glue with activator was a game changer for me too. After that, I would suggest a battery powered nailer. Not having to drag that hose around and mar other surfaces has been awesome!
You’ve literally changed my life with one trick. I will never have to hold my tape on 1 inch while doing headers again. Good god, thank you so much
my exact thought. what the fuck have a i been doing. I'm literally driving to my shop to try it right now
Great video! Since I discovered mitre bond and preassembly, I’ve never looked back. The only way to trim interior doors and windows!
I've been doing the CA glue method for a while, but you still gave me plenty of new things to learn. I definitely appreciate your attention to detail!
I've been doing this work my entire life. Watching your content is awesome. We can always do better, and you certainly do a great job. Thanks for sharing your talents!
You are without question, a skilled craftsman. Your video production skills are top-shelf, as well. Thank you for making these videos and sharing your knowledge.
Had to come back to this video to thank you!! I was working on casing around doors in our remodel this weekend, and I used the glue method on the miter joints. It worked PERFECTLY! This was my first time casing out doors myself and I've grown to really enjoy it. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise!
Yep used a combination square for years but few years ago 3d printed some reveal gauges.. Best thing ever for a trim carpenter!! I have 4 of em from 1/8th to 5/16th but mostly use the 1/4" and 3/16" mostly.. Quick tip at 4:47, instead of at the top, make the mark on the very bottom of the trim then line it up with a zero clearance insert.. Love your videos bro!! Keep em coming!!
I've been enjoying watching finish carpentry videos. I'm in the process of replacing the door trim and baseboards. I took my game to lvl 100! They were pricey, but I purchased 2 Clam Miter Clamps. I actually cut, glue and nail my miters before installing it on the door. This way my miter joints are invisible after a light sand in paint.
Nice tips. I glue and shim mine with pin nails to hold the corners to each other if they are close. If not, I use biscuits and glue... with shims as well to keep things solid on the wall. Painted trim is way easier to dress out than stained, since you can always finish it with caulk. ;)
I was just thinking about your channel the other day while I was on a job! I can’t tell you how stoked I am this video popped up! Glad you’re back….well back for me at least, maybe you never left.
Cheers Buddy, thanks for watching
great video, your door vids are always highest quality there is on youtube!
Thanks buddy, I appreciate the praise!
Incredible timing for this video! I need to remove some interior window casings, fix drafts, and replace the outdated trim? Really appreciate the 2 different methods. I’m anxious, but the detailed explanations and instructions, really give me confidence. Thank you for another great video. Happy Holidays😊
Nice Install! Method number 1 is the most common for sure especially if door jambs are not quite true. I have heard some people use biscuits to connect the mouldings together. I also know there is a very old fashioned method where they use a holesaw on the back of the trim to drill 1/2 way through between the interconnecting pieces and then use a metal ring in that recess to clamp the pieces tight together. I sometimes wonder whether both methods are overkill for most homes but I guess it depends how your house is built and the movement the walls and floor are subjected to. Usually glue and a brad nail seems to suffice on the mitres especially if your mouldings are MDF
I love the bloopers at the end...so funny!
Great video!!! Merry Christmas
I prefer spraying the activator on the join after its held in position. When its sprayed on the second surface it can react with the glue on contact and prevent the two pieces coming together completely. You have to hold for a little longer but you also as much adjustment time as required.
Thank you for showing the part when you align the mitre edge with the edge of the mitre saw base and hook the tape measure onto the mitre base - smart!
In Norway it's practice not to paint or caulk the trim work. It's difficult to do trim-work when it's customary that you don't show or fix defects. Of course people fix their mistakes. But a properly done job should look like no mistakes were made, nor fixed
When I used to trim homes that's how we did it. I recently did a reno with a flat profile trim like this but the walls and floors were very out of plumb and the spray glue was great for getting perfect flat profiles that required 0 filler on the front. Probably wouldn't do it on new builds because it takes too much time compared to just wood glue and nail on the spot but good when you just need it to hold in place nicely on a screwed-up wall.
I prefer rolling miters when I can but this is a great video for anyone trying to get the basics. I appreciate the bloopers man I swear sometimes I forget the english language when I'm trying to film something lol
The bloopers are my absolute favourite. Can you just make a compilation of these at the end of the year.
A mini combination square also works well for setting reveals👍🏽
Excellent description.
Experienced DIY, home gamer here. I use my grandfather's old combo square to mark the reveal. Works awesome.
love the detail, thank you.
I love using both methods when doing trim, both work great, but the CA and spray is PRIMO! I worked on a large cottage last year that took about two weeks to trim out top to bottom and all the VERY high windows...ahhh, angled ones the CA was...as you say GOLDEN! Did this with all four pieces and I was just flabbergasted at the results, I have to say that I was feeling very good about my finished work, all the doors I did the other method and Bingo! Thanks for the encouragement you give to those who are taking a shot at it. Awesome video.
Thanks Andrew. Glad to hear your success with the CA glue method. I’m always curious to know how people make out with it.
The best shims for work like this is playing cards like they use in Vegas. Each card is exactly the same thickness. You can place a card on the gap and run your finger over it to see if its flush. If not add a card. if flush put the shims under and nail away.
Love the CA glue method. Only difference I like is placing my mouldings on the jamb and marking my mitres off the door. Give yourself an opportunity to make sure you will have a nice cut against the flooring(not that any customer actually cares) and it doesn’t take any longer. Good video anyway
That's a nice idea.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter ya works well, you can’t go wrong in marking the lengths of pieces and you don’t have to mess around measuring at the mitre saw. You can verify you have a nice fit at the floor. Lots of different ways to do things though
After many years of finish. I learned to pre-assembled when possible. 2p10 thick with accelerator and a cam clamp. Cam clamps will give you the tightest miter...
I'll have to give one of those cam clamps a go- although I'm dubious of the overall speed you'd be able to achieve with one.
absolute game changer. @@TheFunnyCarpenter
The clam clamps work great. I pre clamp the corner before the glue if I’m using CA with acceleration so the dents are easy to refit once I add the glue to be fast. If I’m not rushed I prefer using tightbond and a dab of CA without acceleration on the top and bottom of the joint just to make sure I don’t break it if I pull the clamps too early. The downside is clamps are pricey and two sides of a door is already four clamps tied up for a while.
@@shandorszentkuti6330 i have 6 of them. pricey but worth it. i use 5 min PU glue. dries really quick. . put a small bead on and sit the top arch so it is barely on and then slide it back so the excess is pushed back . works great on the modern mdf ones with minimal detail. then put on the clamps. i try to plan my archs to allow clamping time. i will cut and fit 3 sets(3 sets of clamps) and a few more is places that would slow me down like a room with more than 3 archs . then fit the first 3 and then skirt around the room. then as i get to a door i will cut that arch and move the clamps along. i try to use break times and lunch etc as a way to get ahead
Thanks for the cam clamp tip. I need all the tips & tricks.😊
Instead of lifting the miter saw blade guard to view placement prior to cutting, I found that you can keep the blade guard down (safety first) and simply view through the horizontal slits on the blade guard. Works very well.
with this type of board for door and window trim I use biscuits to hold the corner and titebond glue. they never come apart.
Check out the Senco 21lxp nailer. Game changer! Shoots 21 gauge headed brad nails or headless pins up to 2". It almost has the holding power of 18 gauge but with a much smaller footprint closer to a 23 gauge. I am expert painter by trade but am a self taught near professional carpenter because of great videos like yours. I lend builders my 21g nail guns all the time, they love it, end up buying one and I love patching smaller holes, win win. Do your best, caulk the rest!
lol....."...and if you're using metric, you're laughing at us...' lol that's funny, right there... and so true! Greg (garden grove, CA)
44.9 degrees on saw. 1.2 bevel on saw out side edge. Glue and Nail long outside edge while laying down. Attach legs with 1x4 , 2 ect across like a strap. Cure overnight.Raise as one piece nail on……done.
Хорошая работа 👍. У нас мастера уже много лет так делают.
Love the channel.
For a while i kept getting hairline gaps on the face of my miters
It was so frustrating.
Come to find out my miter saw blade wasnt 100% true.
Sometimes your tool is the problem
Cant wait to get the glue
Ahh the old snaggle tooth syndrome.
Thanks for sharing!
I like to use instant adhesive to fasten miters on the floor before putting up casing
Can we get a video showing all the trim molding being used in this room? Love the look so far.
Only thing I do different is i have a straw on the activator. It took me three trips around the block and 20 years to get to this method. It works.
This is the way I was taught almost 12 years ago when I started doing finish carpentry.
Mid Mod homes (or others with clean-line sensibilities) with ornate/decorative/curvy trim is a personal pet peeve.
There is a place for every trim.
Also, this is likely a long-suffering door frame that is used for demo purposes (I’ve seen it used in more than one vid) - for our benefit. So, thanks, @The Funny Carpenter
Love this how to do video
thanks Kathy:)
Please remember to use longer nails on the outer edges, where they must (usually) pass through sheetrock or something else that adds zero nail-gripping action.
Great tips. Why don't you get the attachment for your DeWalt that creates the shadow line? It's the reason I got rid of my Bosch saw and switched to DeWalt. No more guessing where the blade is going to come down.
Hey Funny Carpenter! Love your videos I've learned a lot from you thus far, I was really excited to try this and I followed every step to the tee, but the connection just wasn't that strong unfortunately (with the CA glue + Activator) and I ended up using my nail gun to install. Any theories as to what I might be doing wrong?
Love the trick with using shims. It definitely makes it a lot better.
Definitely!
Send chill down my spine? No.
Looks great and easier using the second option. Is nails (what you're doing) or glue alone enough to fix the trim to the wall?
Nice, but I like to trim clockwise around door keeping top piece a bit longer till I'm happy with left miter then doing right miter. I don't put last nail in right side of top miter till joint is adjusted.
Yep i learned a couple new tricks to make it better
Thanks!
I have Hartford miter clamps. Shame they don’t make them anymore, they are an absolute game changer. Completely get rid of that gap at the short point
What was that pry bar called the you used at the start?
I plan on attempting this for my first time soon. I have the same trim you removed and want to put on something similar what you have here, but I’m curious what is normal practice if the door way is close to a adjacent wall that is less than the height of the trim and requires to be ripped on the table saw. Obviously 45 degrees on both cuts will no longer work 😅
Just curious if C-A has the long term hold like TB ?
Love the pro method and I will be trying that next time I trim a door or window!
One question: You don't shoot a nail through the miter after the glue dries?
You can but it's not necessary. The nails are to hold the trim in place while the wood glue dries. CA drys EXTREMELY quickly. Do NOT get any on your finger tips why putting the casing together. You will find out very quickly if you have some on your finger because it will become part of the trim....I know from experience.
if its paint grade then we always do it the way you did it with the first door but stain grade ill pre assemble before hand like the second door
Question, would you used or recommend MDF trims?
Yeah, wood glue is the way to go, but i'm a little slower because i like to use a clamp, such as Ulmia clamps or clam clamps. I leave it overnight! I don't think 2p10 is strong enough to do this, unless you're using mdf, then it works perfectly!! On wide flat casing i use biscuits, seems to to work pretty well!!
Interesting points Brian. I’ve been thinking about doing some strength test with these type of joints. It will be interesting to see how the CA glue stacks up against wood glue, wood glue and biscuits, and I’m going to try using a biscuit with wood glue and then bond the outer parts with CA glue. I’ll do both mdf and wood mouldings. It also begs the question how strong is strong enough…
Mdf and CA glue is strong, but titebond wood glue for wood casing in my experience!
I got goose bumps when I saw how tidy your miters were. So can a knucklehead carpenter get pro results with a spray gun? Inquiring minds want to know
lol short answer yes! I shot a video about me using my fuji q5 sprayer, but it was pretty boring. It works great. I’ll figure out a better video with it in the future.
Hi, Im located in the North Okanagan, where are you getting your 2p10 from?
Do you put the sides right against the floor or leave a gap?
The most mental thing of all is that Imperial's decimal-equivalents are easy to memorize, and more accurate, yet people still insist on relaying them in fractions (in multiples of 4, no less). It boggles the mind. Imperial's silly enough. Let's not complicate things any more than we have to... lol
I've seen door casings now where they just don't even bother with the miters. Just two boards on the side of the door and a board that just fits on top of them across the top. That sounds like it's more my speed.
The old popular header method.
Just a style os doing it!@@TheFunnyCarpenter
I really like the style of door and window trim that uses carved squares of wood at the corners instead of miters. Then you were left with butt joints for the top and bottom trim. I enjoy the visual interest.
Of course, I still enjoy the skill involved in a well mitered joint.
Here on Nantucket in the north east if we have a flat stock casing it's more common to use butt joints. Sometimes use a thicker piece for the top and have a little reveal. Miters suck I try to avoid when possible. Imho.
And yes I am a carpenter by trade and have done alot if interior trim in high end houses
@@sociopathmercenarySometimes with a decorative rosette, or other pattern.
I'm amazed how even 30 years ago they already just couldn't nail door jambs straight together, or drive hinge screws straight, and it's worse today :-( To the point that it's easier to assemble jambs and hang doors myself.
You need to do a rolled miter. Put the shim on the saw then cut.
I'm retired and doing a lot of remodeling projects. I have an issue with a number of interior doors. The sheet rock is sitting proud around the door frame. I initially thought I could add a trim piece to bring the frame even, but the distance it's proud is not even from top to bottom. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Lol! The dry erase board! 😂😂😂
That video is on the cutting room floor😂
@@TheFunnyCarpenter No blooper reel for us to enjoy? Awwww... Lol
To make life easier on yourself, cut the 45 first, measure out your length and make a 90 cut. Much easier to cut your line so your not trying to see where the blade is hitting on an angle.
👍👍👍.Thank you
Thank you too
How do you get trim (casing) properly when you have an old house, and there's an uneven gap when putting in new doors and frame? I have a 1/2" gap on one side, and zero gap on the other side on the inside of the door. This happened because the hardwood floors that run with the doors needed to be straight at the bottom, whereas the walls were not in line. What you're doing here is easy.
What size is this door trim that you used
I shot though my finger and hit the bone once … did it once … I learned good haha 😅
Link to chop saw points to more push blocks.
Is your bee hive glazing bar any different than a Richards scrapper /pry bar?
Richard’s Red, that’s the one.
NICE ... Beard Pal ! ..
Why wouldn’t you use a high quality white caulk like sherwin max for the joints instead of wood glue? It’s strong and it makes the joints look that much better
good idea
Instead of making a block on the table saw to mark your reveal just buy a Kreg Multi Mark tool.
I use that for so many different things and it is always in my belt.
I'm facing an issue that might make for a 'how to' video. Wife added 3 broom hooks to the wall a few years back and decided they needed to be replaced. In pulling the old hooks (without asking for any help...) she pulled up about a 4 x 12 inch 'hole' in the paint - which is about 8-10 layers of old paint. I'm at a loss as to how to go about repairing this without stripping the entire wall. Is there a hack? Thanks for another great video brother!
I would use drydex or mix up a little drywall mud and patch the hole, sand. Maybe two coats if it's bad, and then repaint it...... or maybe it's a good spot for a picture:)
@@TheFunnyCarpenter How do you feel about Durham's water putty for that? I know I have a can or two of that
@@m2svirtual384 durhams is a bit to hard for drywall repairs
I’d definitely use drywall mud to patch it up. After sanding, spray with kills primer before painting. So far for me it works EVERY time.
I love how he says how much he loves the pry bars but doesn't add a link.
That is an excellent point, I’ll add that link.
seriously why using imperial and make it harder than neccesarily? its redicoules instead of measuring 3/16 of an inch you can say 5 mm ! lol
love your videos man, thanks
Wow
My first time trimming the bathroom door..do.. Let's just say I need more practice..It looks ok but definitelysee the some of the mistakes... I did notice my walls are not straight.. I going to redue it again in the summer.... My wife just wants done..
Great advice unfortunately in my case the original installer use a combination or stable brad nails and framing nail. Followed by the thickest caulk job. Needless to say it was a process to remove without damaging the jam or drywall
Hey bud
It’s best to cut at 45 1/2 nothing is a true 90 then go back and take one of those 1/2’s if need be! Funny!
No one told me math would be involved.
Well done 👍 one piece of advice put some cardboard or canvas on you floor. You would be surprised how sloppy some of your viewers are
@8:32 you can see the nail flying I think for a split second.
I've seen other carpenter here mostly using 15g nails...
Ya nothing wrong with 15g. I've always thought it was a little overkill.
Except that my cardboard doors are all hanging exclusively on these 15g nails. Casings are shot to the jambs on one side and to the house frame on the other. Nothing else is holding the doors :-) So 15g is probbaly the standard "go to" size in the "industry" @@TheFunnyCarpenter
Ya I use 15g to nail the door jamb to the framing-that's a given. 18g for trims is how's it done round my parts. All those cowboys out there hanging doors by prenailing on the trims and then using the trims to hang the doors-don't know $hit. @@weekendwarrior3420
They unfortunately do know - that's "builder-grade" work that's probably the quickest and sufficient to get the house through the warranty period. The exterior jambs are nailed directly to the frame with thicker nails. So they all sag on the upper hinge after some years - I see it on all 20-30 y.o. houses I visit in my city :-) . @@TheFunnyCarpenter
flat trim i will just use a orbital sander on miter and
Made my comment too soon - saw method #2😊
👍🏆