My wife and I installed the baseboards and trim in our house 15 years ago, and it haunts me to this day. I'm a perfectionist, but had no idea what I was doing and it ain't pretty. Now I know how to fix it! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience!
Wonderful mention of proper wood filler. More and more people are feeling comfortable trying their hands at labor and repairs and the majority of proper advice rests in verbal history between tradies. Thanks for making proper instruction for "the next guy."
Such great tips. In addition to your fancy hair - I appreciate how you demo using such great props/pieces in great light. So many DIY tips are in hallways, lit with a phone and it is so hard to see. Your instructions are so clear and especially when you note where "some mistakes" are made. Thank you so much!
Drydex was your recommendation in your old video "The Easiest Way to Get Perfect Miters Every Time!!!" Glad to see even the pros like you are constantly learning and improving your craft.
Short, but extremely useful info, just perfect! "Better than 99% of the miters" - so true, I've never seen a good miter in the "builder-grade" houses. The pieces aren't even in the same plane!
I’ve paid £700 pounds for a “professional” to do my skirtings badly and se real mitre joints that don’t fit properly together, so I really appreciate people like you teaching how to fix expensive mistakes like this 🙌🏻👏🏻
That moment you watch a informative and well made DIY video and say to yourself I rather get pissed off at MY mistakes through a learning curve instead of being pissed off daily by seeing shoddy work from "reputable" builders. God bless friend and appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge with us. It's going to be a "hairy" endeavour but I'm gonna give it a go. 🙏💪
I've been doing this type of restoration/refresh work for years. I use carpenters wood glue first. That's the key to making these joints solid and able to take a good door slamming.
Yes, the problem with wood filler is that they are just sand/glass powders. They don't expand or contract when temperature or humidity changes, while the wood swells and shrinks, that's how it would crack in dry seasons.
Yes! The Bin shellac primer is amazing! I was just introduced to this and was super impressed. A bit pricey, but 1 coat on bare wood and dries in minutes... totally worth it! And definitely digging the fancy hair!
The Zinsser BIN primer is fantastic. Did a remodel on a home with a lot of stained oak cabinets, and some painted pine beams with knots bleeding through. The BIN sealed up everything beautifully.
I'm a newbie to all of this having just started learning this stuff during my transition from full time job to these sorts of projects. I can't wait to get corners like yours! Thanks for the info! You are helping more people than you realize.
Needed this video after a few crown molding miter fails. (And no I didn't cope bc I sucked at that 😂). Thanks as always. Your tip on that Elmer's wood filler made my baseboards turn out the best last year. Appreciate your vids!
I'm watching from the UK. I'm looking for some tutorials for a long time to paint my old doors. Finally, I got the confidence to paint my door. Thanks a lot.
I just found your channel recently and I wanted to let you know you earned a subscription. It was short and to the point, full of information, you didn't have a long introduction and the best part is you didn't have a 2 minute, in-video, ad.
I have several ornate (Rocco...Baroque) picture frames which I purchased online. The seller cut them to order from sticks of molding. The miters are off a bit. My fix: Acrylic nail polish in a gold color. Dries hard but just enough flexibility for nanometer movements due to normal changes in humidity. Relatively inexpensive. The brush is tiny so it can flow the polish down deeply. Everything else you mentioned is spot on. I can still learn new or update my thinking after 55 years of hands-on "stuff".
Useful tips. You did choose a pretty simple profile for the demonstration. Most old profiles are much harder to fill and sand. But it's fair game I'd say. Thanks.
This is my full time job on the new build plots go from house to house repairing all kinds of damage it’s unreal some of the rash harsh finishing we come across. Good job bud 👍
Perfect...as a painter,this is the Exact product and technique I use. As for the primer, advance works well. Advance is a hybrid paint (water based with oil properties). Never had a problem on raw wood with it on small areas. However, you don't want to use it too much because it's quite a bit more expensive than regular primer. I will say..Elmer's wood filler is an essential in my work bag!
Why I always use caulk instead of wood filler (30 years as a painter): wood filler is not pliable while vinyl or hybrid caulking is. There is a reason why these corners look like that… they are still moving/settling. That wood filler will crack within a month while the caulk will flex and last longer.
@@hyperion112 Pro for 30 years. You are delusional. A DIYer is who would use wood filler on something that is actively moving. I have seen glued joints move all the time because when a 3,000 ton house moves down 1/4" the glue, surprisingly, doesn't hold. No amount of glue is going to stop the house from continuing to settle. You're obviously a hack that walks away without ever thinking about the harm you do to your work.
Walls do move, but never enough to open up a mitre. If a mitre is opening or moving, it's because it wasn't glued correctly. Wood filler is absolutely the go to for trim, not caulk, trim does not ever move enough if glued and pinned properly
For real demanding trim/base wood filler situations I prime (either oil or alcohol based) then apply filler, this improves filler adhesion . Some filler manufacturers' instructions include this advise about priming first. And yes, then I prime again.
@@matthewphilip1977 It could be water-based primer and that would be effective. On bare wood, imho and from what I've read, oil-based primer is best because it penetrates more on such a porous surface. This seals better and gives more adhesion to the next application. I know it's a pain because of the longer dry time, it's more expensive primer, it smells and brush/roller clean up is way more of a pita than water-based. For a small area I would only use some cheap throw a way brush. An alternative is the same primer in a spray can. A good, popular, in-a-hurry solution is Zinsser BIN primer (alcohol based), also available in a spray can. It is a very fast drying primer.
The Zinsser BIN primer is the best especially if you have to cover Smoke damage. It was incredible. I have not used spray cans of it but gallons and 5 gallon buckets. But also use a good respirator if using to cover large areas or whole rooms/ ceilings. Expensive but well worth it in the long run!
I'm watching what you are doing and concentrating on what you are saying. Sorry, I don't give a hoot about your hair. Great video as always. I sure LOVE watching a real CRAFTSMAN ply his specialty. THANK YOU.
i'm gonna have to do this. i always use mdf trim in dry areas because it doesn't move and i always paint. one time i was forced to use pine. had perfect joints until the seasons changed, lol. now i have a permanent 1/16 gap all the time. luckily i procrastinate and several seasons later the trim is still unpainted and nail holes unfilled
I really like the way you Americans craft wooden doors and frames! Here in Europe, the standard doors and frames are factory made, consist of MDF and are CPL coated - just like cheap IKEA furniture. You can't really fix misaligned miters or demages on those.
Just a general comment about your excellent presentations. You quote the trade names of many products but here in the UK we don't know or don't have these products. They may be available under other names but we can't judge that from your videos. If you could be as helpful as possible with the type of product, that would be great. Keep up the good work!
I say titebond glue on door casing!, unless its mdf then 2p10 is good, but 2p10 might be kind of weak with real wood casing. I would definitely use some kind of clamp when gluing miters together!
Woohoo! I had a bunch of problems with my window sills and took a stab at fixing them with wood filler! Glad to know my “new” solution is standard practice :)
Nice hair! The wood filler is what to use to fill in baseboard joints that are starting to have small gaps? Also in my fairly new build ~ the baseboards and door trims are such a mess…😬 globs of caulking and terrible nail fills in spots. Just no care whatsoever and of course this wasn’t super noticeable at first. The sanding sponge looks like that will work great for smoothing that. Thank you
I like to use Zinsser Ready Patch myself it works with everything Wood ,Drywall,Metal, Masonry,etc.Outdoor or indoor.Its a little pricey for the small can, but if you got kids its a life saver, because its an all in one solution.The smell might put some people off just a heads up.
As a painter “carpenters”using caulk is the bane of my life. They get all giddy with it and want to use it for everything and I have to spend far longer than it would take to fill it properly removing the caulk before I can do anything else. Caulk is just for angle joins and can’t be sanded so put it on smooth or just don’t put it on
Thank you for putting quotes around carpenters. I can assure you that as a carpenter, I would never fill a flat surface with caulk. The guys that do that are hacks that are trying to hide their horrendous cuts from everyone.
First, your hair is fabulously fancy. Second, will the Elmer's still work if the defects were painted over. I'm dealing with nail holes, staple holes and dents that were painted over, and I can't sand inside the small holes and some of the dents. Will the Elmer's adhere to the painted areas?
Your method works well when fixed to plywood, But, if it’s cracked, it has movement, therefore, fix the movement before filling. Show the people how to stabilise movement👍🏼
My wife and I installed the baseboards and trim in our house 15 years ago, and it haunts me to this day. I'm a perfectionist, but had no idea what I was doing and it ain't pretty. Now I know how to fix it! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience!
This is literally part of my summer project-correcting the imperfections I introduced replacing the baseboards in my living room two years ago.
Wonderful mention of proper wood filler. More and more people are feeling comfortable trying their hands at labor and repairs and the majority of proper advice rests in verbal history between tradies. Thanks for making proper instruction for "the next guy."
Cheers and thanks for checking out the vid 🍻
I think, it's not about "comfortable", rather, they learn they have to do it because nobody will do a quality job for the money they can pay.
I always learn something new from your videos. You make things look so effortless. Have to admit, the out takes at the end are my favorite!😂
@@weekendwarrior3420 You nailed it.
😮
Such great tips. In addition to your fancy hair - I appreciate how you demo using such great props/pieces in great light. So many DIY tips are in hallways, lit with a phone and it is so hard to see. Your instructions are so clear and especially when you note where "some mistakes" are made. Thank you so much!
Drydex was your recommendation in your old video "The Easiest Way to Get Perfect Miters Every Time!!!" Glad to see even the pros like you are constantly learning and improving your craft.
Short, but extremely useful info, just perfect! "Better than 99% of the miters" - so true, I've never seen a good miter in the "builder-grade" houses. The pieces aren't even in the same plane!
Builder grade good mitres are tough to find! And run of the mill painters don’t care if the mitres look terrible when they paint them!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter That's what I'm worried about in our upcoming Tiny House interior painting.
I’ve paid £700 pounds for a “professional” to do my skirtings badly and se real mitre joints that don’t fit properly together, so I really appreciate people like you teaching how to fix expensive mistakes like this 🙌🏻👏🏻
That moment you watch a informative and well made DIY video and say to yourself I rather get pissed off at MY mistakes through a learning curve instead of being pissed off daily by seeing shoddy work from "reputable" builders. God bless friend and appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge with us. It's going to be a "hairy" endeavour but I'm gonna give it a go. 🙏💪
I've been doing this type of restoration/refresh work for years. I use carpenters wood glue first. That's the key to making these joints solid and able to take a good door slamming.
Exactly. A mitre that is NOT glued is NOT going to stay tight. Filling a mitre joint is only a temporary fix for it WILL open up with time.
Mine are over a hundred years old. They aren't glued. And there's no gaps. Although I think gluing them is a great idea.
@@msingerdesignsllc3667 Fair enough. My house is still settling and I've had to fix four of them so far.
I have also used wood glue.
Yes, the problem with wood filler is that they are just sand/glass powders. They don't expand or contract when temperature or humidity changes, while the wood swells and shrinks, that's how it would crack in dry seasons.
Yes! The Bin shellac primer is amazing! I was just introduced to this and was super impressed. A bit pricey, but 1 coat on bare wood and dries in minutes... totally worth it!
And definitely digging the fancy hair!
It is...its a must have for painters...
I use Bondo. It is structurally strong and will adhere the two pieces together plus fill the gap then finish as shown in the video.
I like using bondo too. Good stuff for projects like this.👍
Man, that fancy hair is on point! Great tips for us DIYers as aways!
The Zinsser BIN primer is fantastic. Did a remodel on a home with a lot of stained oak cabinets, and some painted pine beams with knots bleeding through. The BIN sealed up everything beautifully.
Nice "fancy hair"...Thank you for this tip...Much needed for the average Do-It-Yourself home owner!
Thanks for checking out the vid🍻
I'm a newbie to all of this having just started learning this stuff during my transition from full time job to these sorts of projects. I can't wait to get corners like yours! Thanks for the info! You are helping more people than you realize.
Needed this video after a few crown molding miter fails. (And no I didn't cope bc I sucked at that 😂). Thanks as always. Your tip on that Elmer's wood filler made my baseboards turn out the best last year. Appreciate your vids!
Appreciate how your videos are thorough, concise, and clear. I find them very, very, useful. Thank you!!
I'm watching from the UK. I'm looking for some tutorials for a long time to paint my old doors. Finally, I got the confidence to paint my door. Thanks a lot.
I just found your channel recently and I wanted to let you know you earned a subscription. It was short and to the point, full of information, you didn't have a long introduction and the best part is you didn't have a 2 minute, in-video, ad.
Thanks buddy
your hair is fancy
I’ve got to get back to the barber and get a little trim!
It was sanded and filled too, now you can see the results
Brylcreem sheen
When you go to the barber, get the beard shaved off too....😅
Fancier than 99% of all haircuts
I have several ornate (Rocco...Baroque) picture frames which I purchased online. The seller cut them to order from sticks of molding. The miters are off a bit. My fix: Acrylic nail polish in a gold color. Dries hard but just enough flexibility for nanometer movements due to normal changes in humidity. Relatively inexpensive. The brush is tiny so it can flow the polish down deeply. Everything else you mentioned is spot on. I can still learn new or update my thinking after 55 years of hands-on "stuff".
Excellent as always! I’ve been remodeling a house for the past couple of years and your tips and tricks have been a life saver!
Useful tips. You did choose a pretty simple profile for the demonstration. Most old profiles are much harder to fill and sand. But it's fair game I'd say. Thanks.
Love seeing shop level quality on trim work, makes a home feel high end.
I agree!
shop level quality wouldn't have blown out miters and uneven planes...i think this is more for home owner mistake fixing
This is my full time job on the new build plots go from house to house repairing all kinds of damage it’s unreal some of the rash harsh finishing we come across. Good job bud 👍
came here for fancy hair and was not disappointed. also the tip was useful.
Perfect...as a painter,this is the Exact product and technique I use. As for the primer, advance works well. Advance is a hybrid paint (water based with oil properties). Never had a problem on raw wood with it on small areas. However, you don't want to use it too much because it's quite a bit more expensive than regular primer. I will say..Elmer's wood filler is an essential in my work bag!
Why I always use caulk instead of wood filler (30 years as a painter): wood filler is not pliable while vinyl or hybrid caulking is. There is a reason why these corners look like that… they are still moving/settling. That wood filler will crack within a month while the caulk will flex and last longer.
You need to glue the joint first, that will stop any relative movement between the trim pieces, then the wood filler should work perfectly.
@@hyperion112 That obviously didn't work the first time... the wall is still moving. Use caulking.
@@Fortylat obviously the joint wasn't glued, caulking miters is for flippers and DIYers not for professionals.
@@hyperion112 Pro for 30 years. You are delusional. A DIYer is who would use wood filler on something that is actively moving. I have seen glued joints move all the time because when a 3,000 ton house moves down 1/4" the glue, surprisingly, doesn't hold. No amount of glue is going to stop the house from continuing to settle. You're obviously a hack that walks away without ever thinking about the harm you do to your work.
Walls do move, but never enough to open up a mitre. If a mitre is opening or moving, it's because it wasn't glued correctly. Wood filler is absolutely the go to for trim, not caulk, trim does not ever move enough if glued and pinned properly
Spot on. That's how I do it, and my customers are always very pleased with the results.
Have a great day.
Thankyou for your video, i am about to do all the trim on my house.. Dont listen to stupid comments, great video
You often enough give us good food for thought and make us have better results. Thank you
Thanks for watching Randy🍻
For real demanding trim/base wood filler situations I prime (either oil or alcohol based) then apply filler, this improves filler adhesion . Some filler manufacturers' instructions include this advise about priming first. And yes, then I prime again.
Why not water based primer?
@@matthewphilip1977 It could be water-based primer and that would be effective. On bare wood, imho and from what I've read, oil-based primer is best because it penetrates more on such a porous surface. This seals better and gives more adhesion to the next application.
I know it's a pain because of the longer dry time, it's more expensive primer, it smells and brush/roller clean up is way more of a pita than water-based. For a small area I would only use some cheap throw a way brush. An alternative is the same primer in a spray can.
A good, popular, in-a-hurry solution is Zinsser BIN primer (alcohol based), also available in a spray can. It is a very fast drying primer.
Thanks for sharing! I didn't know it's best to use an oil based primer on bare wood. I'm adding that to my home depot list.
Even though ALL my miters look great 100% of the time, thanks for these tips.
wood filler and paint, make me the carpenter I ain't
Had to watch the video twice because the 1st time I was distracted by the fancy hair.. 🤣 Great video! Precise and concise!
🤣it’s my new watch time strategy 🤗
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Genius! 🤣
Dang that actually looks really good. Nice shop too
Ready Patch® works really well too. With the bonus that it's good for interior & exterior stuff. It's a good filler for so much.
Thats my go to, impressively crack resistant. I even repair plaster cracks with it.
@@jamesjetson3812 It's really amazing stuff, isn't it?
Great video. The caulking video actually helped me out a bunch recently, keep on making these.
Cheers John, that’s great to hear
Wow dude, the cinematography of this video looks great. Well done. I’ve enjoyed your channel for a long time. Cheers from a fellow Canadian
Great tips in a short cohesive video. I learned some of these steps the hard way. Definitely improved over time.
Your videos are so helpful, they’re addicting. I started one and have linked to 3 others.
Thanks for watching Jane! It's appreciated:)
The Zinsser BIN primer is the best especially if you have to cover Smoke damage. It was incredible. I have not used spray cans of it but gallons and 5 gallon buckets. But also use a good respirator if using to cover large areas or whole rooms/ ceilings. Expensive but well worth it in the long run!
I'm watching what you are doing and concentrating on what you are saying. Sorry, I don't give a hoot about your hair. Great video as always. I sure LOVE watching a real CRAFTSMAN ply his specialty. THANK YOU.
I thought he had missed a bit but it was a spot on my screen 😆thank for the instruction as I frame a lot of my work and utilise old frames sometimes 😀
Nice, Museum interior finish quality. Time for the white glove test 😂. Nice YT channel 👍👌
Thank you for putting out such useful and well-crafted videos!
YOUR Hair is Definitely Fancy... I Love It !!! ♥
This tutorial was so helpful, however, I couldn't tear my eyes away from your fancy hair!!!
These videos are really cool. I’ve been watching a bunch of them. Thanks for making them.
i'm gonna have to do this. i always use mdf trim in dry areas because it doesn't move and i always paint. one time i was forced to use pine. had perfect joints until the seasons changed, lol. now i have a permanent 1/16 gap all the time. luckily i procrastinate and several seasons later the trim is still unpainted and nail holes unfilled
Loved the fancy hair lol. Great tips, and the outcome looked perfect. Thanks!
I really like the way you Americans craft wooden doors and frames! Here in Europe, the standard doors and frames are factory made, consist of MDF and are CPL coated - just like cheap IKEA furniture. You can't really fix misaligned miters or demages on those.
These are the tips I have been looking for.
Always a fan of one more blow and a final wipe!!! 😂😂😂
--won't mention the hair, just that you rock! Thanks for the video.
Just a general comment about your excellent presentations. You quote the trade names of many products but here in the UK we don't know or don't have these products. They may be available under other names but we can't judge that from your videos. If you could be as helpful as possible with the type of product, that would be great. Keep up the good work!
That's a great point, thanks for bringing it up.
If you're not painting, save the sawdust from the project to mix with white glue for a color matched wood filler.
I say titebond glue on door casing!, unless its mdf then 2p10 is good, but 2p10 might be kind of weak with real wood casing. I would definitely use some kind of clamp when gluing miters together!
Love the haircut and the new setup too. Good work!
I'm comin back just to see the next fancy hair!
Hair is on point..
Great video. Super helpful.
Wish I had that much hair...
Now I have to come up with a project to try this out, looks great👍🏻
Nice hair :) hanks for the run through it will come in handy when I get to that stage in my project.
That's some fancy hair you have bro. Great tips!
Woohoo! I had a bunch of problems with my window sills and took a stab at fixing them with wood filler! Glad to know my “new” solution is standard practice :)
First video of yours I watched. I appreciate the info. and the fancy hair!
Solid advice. Except for the painting part. I let the painters worry about that.😅
Those are some sweet mitres right there.
Nice hair! The wood filler is what to use to fill in baseboard joints that are starting to have small gaps? Also in my fairly new build ~ the baseboards and door trims are such a mess…😬 globs of caulking and terrible nail fills in spots. Just no care whatsoever and of course this wasn’t super noticeable at first. The sanding sponge looks like that will work great for smoothing that. Thank you
Outstanding. Gonna use all of this.
excellent work. Thanks for the tip
Wow thanks now I can fix on my own
Great technique. Awesome recommendations on materials. Cool hair. Trifecta.
I am 63 and going bald.....totally dig your fancy hair bro! Cheers from Osoyoos, eh. :)
Great stuff, camera work was top notch 👊
Thanks Scott🍻
Nice presentation…really interested in oil based primer rather than water based
Another great video! Could you do a video on fixing nail pops in drywall?
You should check out Vancouver Carpenter, he’s the drywall guru!
OR.......bondo! Good for chips in trim that have that really thick coating. But that takes a bit more work to get right
I find you have to be pretty skilled to use Bondo with good success.
This was a Fantastic information and a well done video THANK YOU for making it! Yes I’d watch more. 😊
Hey Mr fancy hair!
good vid! Thank you
Wow I'm really glad I found your channel. This is incredibly helpful!! Thank you!
I won't mention the fancy hair, but is that a staple in your shirt? Just curious what the story is there... 😀
That is a safety pin that hold a lapel mic under my shirt.
Where have I been? 345k subs! Good for you Funny Man. Thanks
Time flies!
I like to use Zinsser Ready Patch myself it works with everything Wood ,Drywall,Metal, Masonry,etc.Outdoor or indoor.Its a little pricey for the small can, but if you got kids its a life saver, because its an all in one solution.The smell might put some people off just a heads up.
perfect timing! thanks for posting.😀
Best wishes!
Fancy hair! And thank you very much for the video.
As a painter “carpenters”using caulk is the bane of my life. They get all giddy with it and want to use it for everything and I have to spend far longer than it would take to fill it properly removing the caulk before I can do anything else. Caulk is just for angle joins and can’t be sanded so put it on smooth or just don’t put it on
Thank you for putting quotes around carpenters. I can assure you that as a carpenter, I would never fill a flat surface with caulk. The guys that do that are hacks that are trying to hide their horrendous cuts from everyone.
Great video, and sir, your hair is *very* fancy and I approve 👌
Your hair looks great!
I had no idea why my touchups had to look like such ass ... thank you! Wood filler and sanding for the win.
Very fancy!
🤣thanks for watching the whole vid🍻
Gracias señor
Excellent video. Thanks
First, your hair is fabulously fancy. Second, will the Elmer's still work if the defects were painted over. I'm dealing with nail holes, staple holes and dents that were painted over, and I can't sand inside the small holes and some of the dents. Will the Elmer's adhere to the painted areas?
Yes it will work over painted surfaces.
I agree your hair is really fancy !
Your method works well when fixed to plywood, But, if it’s cracked, it has movement, therefore, fix the movement before filling.
Show the people how to stabilise movement👍🏼
You're making it look easy Mr fancy hair carpenter :)
Love the fancy hair!
This will come in handy. Many thanks!