Ebike Hub motor - hall sensors replacement
Vložit
- čas přidán 12. 01. 2018
- An overview of how I fixed my damaged hub motor.
This motor died at 1989 miles OD. It lives again and is back in the road again!
Update Sept 2018 - It still lives and has now hit 3500 miles + a few unrecorded miles on another LCD!
Any questions feel free, I'l try my best to help.
Update Dec 2018 the link below are now discontinued..
UK hall sensors uk.rs-online.com/web/p/hall-e...
I will be purchasing the following in a few days, I CAN NOT say for sure that the follow will work...
uk.rs-online.com/web/p/hall-e...
Instructables www.instructables.com/id/Elec...
Thank you for sharing. I think I have the same issue. I will do the same, order a new one and repair the old one.
Hi - This motor is long dead now, I have had a rear hub and a another front hub since, never again with rear hubs and 48v all the way from now on, not so much for speed but acceleration and torque. Good luck fixing yours, this one was easy but they are now making them less user repair and more throw away when broken, which is ludicrous in these modern environmentally aware times.
Your motor is of how much voltage??
Hi , nice video ! I have the same motor it is dgw07-20j . I had an error 03 "hall sensors" , motor works very very badly, slowly and vibrates like hell .After disassembling it, I noticed that one of the two capacitors was gone from pcb (bad welding?) I have to replace C2, I don't know its value. Do you have an idea? is it the same as C1? Thank you in advance for your help.
This motor was a generic Dilleneger brand, I replaced the hall sensors not capacitors. My best advice is to join a ebike forum & post a few pics, our UK pedelecs.co.uk has some great people on there who will try and help. With this motor I took a punt and just purchase some generic Honeywell hall sensors. I have moved on from this motor now I use a MXUS xf07✌👍
hello sir, my bldc hub motor is vibrating only not starting is this problem in controller or in motor
I can only offer you some basic advice good sir - is the motor geared like mine or direct drive? how old is you motor etc? - best bet is to check for signs of damage with the motor open it if you are confident in doing so, if the copper wiring used to make the magnetic field are burnt and smells bad then your motor is most likely dead, if not there maybe hope then smell the controller or look inside if that's burnt start by replacing that, if either one is burnt then you may need to check your battery and battery setup as you maybe taking too many volts/amps... Please bare in mind I have NO electrical expertise I am a shot in the dark kinda persons - there's plenty of good vids here on youtube or our UK based forum should offer a wider pool of expertise or help with a lot of topics already covered www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum
Which hall sensor did you used
Hi mahendra - my motor is 36v to answer the question below first, and the hall sensors are Honeywell Digital Hall Effect Sensor switching current 20 mA supply voltage 4.5 → 24 V dc - there is a link to the website in the description, I haven't checked but they should ship world wide or Banggood, gearbest or fasttech should stock similar sensors but the descriptions might be a bit vague so be carefully, I purchased these sensors as a shot in the dark I had no idea if I was buying the right sensor, luckily they worked and they should work for most voltages 24,36 and 48 - check out the instrucatable too that help massively, My motor is still going today its done 700 mile + since I fixed it - good luck, send another msg if you need any more help but bear in mind I had/have limited skill and knowledge!
Faceless Vaper are those sensor digital or analog??
It states "Digital" in the description title so one would assume digital
Do you know who is the manufacturer of this motor ? Thanks
This motor was made in China and supplied by an Australian Company called Dillenger, They have drop-shipping warehouse space in most countries. Most branded motors for ebikes are made to similar designs however parts, build and electronics differ greatly in quality. There are three main types Direct Drive, Mid drive and this one is a Gear-hub. Thanks for the comment.
Ok, so..You put in a new sensor? (that circuit board) Or did you get away with just fixing the wires? \; | *scratches head* lol My ebike just did the same. >: p I went over a small bump, like I've done 1000x, and POOF! The motor just quit! Now I have the Hall sensor error code flashing...Grhhh. I'm HOPING it's just a broken wire, but hey..$3-4 for a new sensor isn't bad to fix it. : ) I'd LOVE to know how to bypass (eliminate it totally) it, like I've heard of people doing... *thumbs up*
Yep sounds familiar, mine went after a wet day trip to the hospital and like you POOF dead - sadly mine has done it again at 3500 miles but no errors this time, just slight movement and a stutter/vibration - Anyway thanks for watching - in this video I did repair the wire and replace 2 out of the 3 hall sensors, getting the old sensors out was tricky and putting them back but for the price its worth a go if it works it'll save you a few bucks on a new kit - You'll need to check the continuity of your wires from the JST or julet connector to the tiny circuit board if you have a broken wire inside the cable that'll be hard to fix but if like me it's inside the motor you should be fine - it is also worth checking if the copper coils are in good condition, if they are shiny they are ok but if they are black or there is a burnt smell then you could have problems... I use the UK based pedelecs forum there is a whole wealth of info about nearly everything and some good people who maybe able to help.... www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum
Hi i can you halp me with mi e bike.
If jo like to halp me i bild e bike it works pready well bat now i have error 7 i chainge hall senzor bat it dont works
Did you ever get your motor sorted?