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This motor was a generic Dilleneger brand, I replaced the hall sensors not capacitors. My best advice is to join a ebike forum & post a few pics, our UK pedelecs.co.uk has some great people on there who will try and help. With this motor I took a punt and just purchase some generic Honeywell hall sensors. I have moved on from this motor now I use a MXUS xf07✌👍

Mis strike 20p - worth about £100 gbp👍

Hi - sorry about the late response - I hope you are well - Yes when playing with over 600w of power I would imagine most cheap metal folks would give out, in my case the max brief wattage is 600 with an average of 200-250w when cruising. Occasionally I do sustained 600w when hill climbing but this is at 12-14mph max - This set up in this vid is now out dated, I do somewhere have some footage of my new t-arm install on new steel rigid folks, which I may try and dig out for YT. Rigid steel is what I would recommend for anyone installing a front hub go for, however I can not speak for Direct Drive motors as I have never used one. I have noticed whilst installing the hose clip the t-arm can twist, like your mention, inwards; above all, folks must check their own handy work. Personally now if I could afford it I would look at Grin Tech CA for their t-arm range or find an old school t-arm like I did from a distant company that went bust years ago, built by experts before their time, not these cheap metal t-arms that are mainstream now.

Sorry for the late response YT doesn't like notifying of new comments. Unless you have some ultra skilled soldering ability & a fine soldering tip it would be easier to purchase another PAS. Even if you did manage to fix I doubt it would last for long. If you pause the vid at 3:50 that should give you an idea on the wiring points.

This motor was made in China and supplied by an Australian Company called Dillenger, They have drop-shipping warehouse space in most countries. Most branded motors for ebikes are made to similar designs however parts, build and electronics differ greatly in quality. There are three main types Direct Drive, Mid drive and this one is a Gear-hub. Thanks for the comment.

you probably got away with it since it's a low torque motor

@@TheAviation101 Haha love it sellotape is good stuff lol - TBF it's still on whether it actually works or not I will never know, I max out at 600w for hills so it takes some pain. I looked a grin products and dillenger for T-arms, next build I will pay more defo.

@@facelessvaper you can literally bend it by hand lol if it was a 1000W+ one I would have said get good dental insurance and maybe some good life insurance. Someone actually died using one of these when his wheel came off at 30mph, went flying in to the wrong lane and got severed in half by a lorry. Guts and all hanging out

@@TheAviation101 Oh snap - that can not be good for ones health - The metal is strong enough on mine, I would be hard pressed to bend it in a vice let a lone by hand, although some cheaper versions might come with crappy metal and it is always worth giving things a bend before you fit them, that is sound advice. It is often noted by many experienced DIY ebikers that 30mph is a bridge to far speed wise for an converted bike, especially for a front hub on suspension like mine.

Well sorry for not responding sooner - YT does not let me know anymore - in the LCD3 manual "C" parameter is amp draw reduction some LCDs are % and some divisible figures. It wouldn't actually state it anywhere on the LCD though. It's also possible I meant to say 16a or c5=04 which would be 14.66a

Thanks for the support - sorry I didn't respond sooner, I never seem to get any comment updates even on my own vids. If you are installing a t-arm there is a consensus that it needs to be placed on front of the forks going up, however I have recently seen many "ebike" "ekit" professionals installing them the same way I have in this video.

Hi - This motor is long dead now, I have had a rear hub and a another front hub since, never again with rear hubs and 48v all the way from now on, not so much for speed but acceleration and torque. Good luck fixing yours, this one was easy but they are now making them less user repair and more throw away when broken, which is ludicrous in these modern environmentally aware times.

I have since corrected for this as per conversations below I will in time make another video if possible showing the relocation of the arm to the front of the forks going opposite to the direction of rotation. Thanks for the comment - sorry about the late reply - I don't seem to get notifications any more on my own videos.

Faceless Vaper Easy mistake to make. Thought it best to point it out. Best wishes. Colin

No, he had it right the first time. It's safer to have it on the back of the fork, because of the the axle twist in the opposite direction of the wheel which puts a twist force on the torque arm which if in the front, it's pushing against the fork, but also up against the hose clamp which puts a downward force on the axle increasing the chance of being pushed out of the dropouts, especially if you have a loose nut. With the torque arm on the back of the fork, the twist force causes the torque arm to pull on the hose clamp pulling the axle up. I originally had it on the the front until a few people pointed this out to me and once I thought about the physics of it, I see that it's safer to have it on the back of the fork.

mars base A torque arm is to counteract the torque pressure being applied to forks by the forward rotation of the motor.It should be fitted in front of the forks.

@@colinc.8742 like I said, that's what I originally thought. But even Grin Tech, which has been in the e-bike industry for years and well respected due to their research and innovation, recommends putting it on the back of the fork. Check it out.

I can only offer you some basic advice good sir - is the motor geared like mine or direct drive? how old is you motor etc? - best bet is to check for signs of damage with the motor open it if you are confident in doing so, if the copper wiring used to make the magnetic field are burnt and smells bad then your motor is most likely dead, if not there maybe hope then smell the controller or look inside if that's burnt start by replacing that, if either one is burnt then you may need to check your battery and battery setup as you maybe taking too many volts/amps... Please bare in mind I have NO electrical expertise I am a shot in the dark kinda persons - there's plenty of good vids here on youtube or our UK based forum should offer a wider pool of expertise or help with a lot of topics already covered www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum

Thanks for the comment - I totally forgot about this video - I would have to agree with you about the crappy metals used in the manufacturing process a few years ago, however I have two kits now the front noted in the video and a rear, I believe the quality of the metals has improved over the years as ebiking has become more popular, that said I did have several issues with the rear hub I just purchased but YOSE was extremely quick to solve my problem and it must have cost them a few bucks to do so. I hope you complained to YOSE!

@@facelessvaper i complained to YOSE. I'm waiting for their answer.

@@abdellahb1398 Cool - I hope they solve your problem! - I also believe the axle does not go all the way through the motor as I once assumed I think it is actually split in the middle some where which can cause it to fail, I remember seeing a motor in two halves in a vid, I think by Grin tech (CA)

@@facelessvaper it's because it have a split in the middle + made with a cheap alloy that is too weak.

Did you ever get your motor sorted?

Yep sounds familiar, mine went after a wet day trip to the hospital and like you POOF dead - sadly mine has done it again at 3500 miles but no errors this time, just slight movement and a stutter/vibration - Anyway thanks for watching - in this video I did repair the wire and replace 2 out of the 3 hall sensors, getting the old sensors out was tricky and putting them back but for the price its worth a go if it works it'll save you a few bucks on a new kit - You'll need to check the continuity of your wires from the JST or julet connector to the tiny circuit board if you have a broken wire inside the cable that'll be hard to fix but if like me it's inside the motor you should be fine - it is also worth checking if the copper coils are in good condition, if they are shiny they are ok but if they are black or there is a burnt smell then you could have problems... I use the UK based pedelecs forum there is a whole wealth of info about nearly everything and some good people who maybe able to help.... www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum

Amazing thanks for the response - I don't know much about how the comments work in youtube, I did not know it would be flagged if there's a video link in it! - And cheers, I will look into that facebook idea, I tend to steer clear of facebook so I easily forget about it!

I am aware David and thanks for the comment and I would appreciate more input, the motors a 350w and like i said its done a 1000 miles on that TA so far and I do check it periodically, the video was mainly to possibly guide first timers like I once was and still are in a fashion and if I am getting it wrong I would like to put it right! I did mention it's the wrong size in my description but the other one I have that is the right size would not fit, you should see my first bike and the TA I fitted on that lol, there's not much help out there on youtube with regards to correctly fitting a TA and of those that are on here most involve a jubilee clip, you would of thought by now they would stop sending them out with a clip included. But what choice do I have? Would it be better not to have a TA on in my case? I have looked at the link you posted and I have never come across them sort before I will have a good look at them, however it begs the question how do I anchor one of them? Would I be correct in thinking when you say "the clamping is in the wrong direction" you mean then ARM part needs to be on the front of the forks?? do you have any links to any pictures that could help with suspension in mind, with your guidance I would be willing to re-do my TA and remake a video to help others to better understand TA fitting and doing it the correct way! - any videos too that might help.

There are two problems: firstly, the little screw that holds the torque arm to the piece that clamps can't make it rigid enough, so the whole thing behaves like a crank, i.e. the TA turns with axle and the clamp-piece slides up and down the fork. You can solve that by either adding a weld to it after assembly to stop it from pivoting at the screw. That will make the clamp piece try and go fore and aft instead of along the fork, in which case the jubilee clip will clamp it properly. Alternatively, you can use a completely rigid TA. there's a type that has the 10 x 12mm slot in a serrated circle that fits into the arm in any position (rotationwise), so you can place the rigid arm against the fork and clamp it there. In either of these two cases, the arm should be in front of the fork so that the torque would push it against the fork. The second problem is the size of the slot. it's simply too loose. If the axle nut goes loose, the axle will turn in the torque arm because the torque at the axle is so high. The only thing you can do about that is get the right size. It's nothing to panic about because in the short term the wheel nut friction with a bit of help from the anti-rotation washers is normally enough as long as you're below say 18 amps at 36v. Beyond that, the risk increases. What you have is definitely better than no torque arm. The correct size one fitted in front of the fork leg would be a lot better, then a blob of weld where the screw is would make it perfect. I've actually witnessed a guy in front of me go straight over his handlebars when his dropouts broke and the axle spun in the torque arm slot. he was running with 30 amps at 36v. On one of my bikes with 64v and 30 amps and two correctly fitted torque arms, when I took the wheel off to change the tyre, both drop-outs had popped, but I didn't even know. I won't use a front motor anymore because i think you can never make it completely safe unless you use steel forks. Steel forks solve everything.

Amazing thanks - a lot to take in there, should i remove the video I would appreciate your thoughts on that, the TA you mention with the "any angle" serrated circle that was my original idea back in 2016 but I have yet to find one in stock on any website, the one you directed me to from the US is going to cost a fare wack shipping is $30 a little out of my price range but I haven't had a good look around yet... as for welding I have no access to that either, even if I asked the local car garage I doubt they would accommodate or it would cost. Would I still be able to have it located INSIDE the forks? as it appears to be impossible to fit it outside due to the design of the dropouts. It would of been nice (or not nice for guy in front) if you had a mount cam recording when that happened! I have heard some horror stories about dropouts braking but with 36v 350w I deemed I was kinda safe and so far the most I have done to fall off is brake hard in the rain and I have been Electric for 2 years! If I do decide to remove the video I will sent you a message via this video before I delete it with a link to another generic video I have so we can keep in touch if need be. Once again thanks for your input!

If youi pin my first comment, people can see it in conjunction with your video, so they should get the whole picture. You can put the TA on the outside of the drop-out as long as you have a washer thick enough to bring it outboard of the dimple. Under no circumstances must it touch the edge of the dimple otherwise the drop-out will pop when you tighten the axle-nut.

That's why I opted for inside, I will have another attempt at relocating it very soon, have googled about for rigid TAs, the stockists I found have long gone but I fear that even if I do find one they will not be at the angle I require for my setup and trying to find a multi angled one I feel is going to be near impossible, the UK TA market and the EUs are very limited to early US and Chinese designs! Do you have anymore links for sites world wide if need be that sell TAs? I'd love to be able to recommend one if I manage to get one that works better on my next video.

Hi mahendra - my motor is 36v to answer the question below first, and the hall sensors are Honeywell Digital Hall Effect Sensor switching current 20 mA supply voltage 4.5 → 24 V dc - there is a link to the website in the description, I haven't checked but they should ship world wide or Banggood, gearbest or fasttech should stock similar sensors but the descriptions might be a bit vague so be carefully, I purchased these sensors as a shot in the dark I had no idea if I was buying the right sensor, luckily they worked and they should work for most voltages 24,36 and 48 - check out the instrucatable too that help massively, My motor is still going today its done 700 mile + since I fixed it - good luck, send another msg if you need any more help but bear in mind I had/have limited skill and knowledge!

Faceless Vaper are those sensor digital or analog??

It states "Digital" in the description title so one would assume digital