Big Tree Tech SKR 3 EZ - First Look - 2022 - Chris's Basement
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- čas přidán 29. 06. 2024
- Big Tree Tech sent us the new SKR EZ. We'll take our first look in the box. I'll show you all the cool features, how to install our board, and the firmware configuration.
00:00 Introduction
00:52 What's in the Box?
01:50 Board Comparison
03:00 EZ Features
08:46 Installation
13:59 Firmware Configuration
29:08 Compile & Errors
34:01 Time-lapse
35:23 Conclusion
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Thank you, Chris. I love the new vertical driver design and the fact that you can still use the old-style driver. I have been 3d printing since 2015 and cannot believe how far the control boards have come in just 7 years. The functions and bang for the buck is amazing.
Thanks John, I know right? It's crazy how much they will do for so little spend.
I started watching your videos since presenting skr 1.4T and your insight into new 3D printing technology remains amazing. Great quality content.
Awesome, thank you!
Wow, impressed that they include the JST plugs with the board, great idea. RIP Ducky :( Really impressed with what SKR are doing, run a SKR1.4 Turbo in my custom machine and really happy with it.
The addition of selectable fan voltages is a nice touch, currently I run two buck converters for that purpose (and others to be honest)
Thank you
Really nice explanation Chris. In the past I've had so much help from your videos on how to install some boards and configure stuff. I really think your channel is underestimated and I find it so weird to see your channel isn't having 1 million subs... This channel deserves more! Also because you have some older videos where you show some more (by now) obscure boards from before the SKR times. Now I'm not going to get the SKR 3 since my Ramps 1.4 boards can still basically run everything I want, even hacked one up to 24v and it's flawless. I do own SKR 1.3 and 1.4 boards, and even one FLY RRF E3 board for my Delta, but in the end Ramps 1.4 can still keep up well. Cheers to the future!
Thank you for your insight and thank you for watching
The Dual setup really keeps the user in the game with all the drivers we tend to accumulate over time. Great video stay safe !!! Happy Extruding !
Thanks!
its really important you people share this because its really hard without it for sure i will have way more trouble and you done it nice and clear thanks chris pure gold
Thank you!
In my opinion you are the best how you promote a product. You explain everything clearly and touch all the steps. Regardless in to the 3d I think you are the best. I has watch you from many years and never disappointed me. ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Awesome! Thank you!
Informative and detailed as usual. Thanks. A very interesting board. If I had not purchased a TH3D Ezboard 2 last year, I would be looking into this board.
Dave.
Thanks
Great video and informative as always 👍🍻
Thank you
Another good one Chris.
Glad you enjoyed it
Another great video, thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it
Love the video, thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
That was very satisfying, thanks! I have one of these boards and can't wait to set it up as the controller for my old i3… or at least one of the controllers. Like "LOG" this printer is meant to be a test rig, ready to wire up to any board that comes along. The addition of CAN bus lights a small fire under our butts to add CAN support to Marlin. Hopefully there's a nice library already written so we can skip the hard part.
That would be great. Thanks
I got a lot out of your Marlin install, especially the error recovery. I have had these errors in the past and haven't found any reference material on how to recover from a compile error. Thanks for not editing that out. I think I'll move to this new board, now that I have your review and install to use as reference. Thanks.
Awesome, that is exactly why I left them in, I was hoping this would help others.
Just ordered one to replace my ramps1.4 excited to get it!
🙂👍
very nice and detailed video..I am thinking about swapping to this board just to get the motors silent on my MK2.5S, although I am a bit worried about all the config stuff as I never did it before...hopefully your guide here and in other videos will help me get there...thank you!
Thank you, I hope this helps
No ducking duck, no thank you :) Sorry I couldnt help myself. Great video, I have been waiting for this video. I think this is one of the more exciting boards BTT has released.
Too easy! Glad you enjoyed it!
Great topic, thanks 👍
Thanks for watching
@@ChrisRiley always great topics 🙂👍
I have one of these ready for one of my DIY corexy printers that is currently running Klipper on an old Anycubic Trigorilla board (quite well I will add) and I was very very happy they included the jst connectors with the board. My other DIY printer is running on an Octopus board and I am also very happy with that.
That's great! Thanks and good luck with your projects
@@ChrisRiley What is the resistor for ?
Always a joy to watch your videos.
I do like klipper running my vc3, but watching this video I somehow feel the need to buy this board and upgrade my old i3 Mk2. 5
The new steppers are nice because the pins are somehow limited with maximum current. But still using a normal jumper to select the voltage... I don't know. There should be a better and more solid way I think.
Sad that they don't include a duck anymore.
I agree, thanks
thank you thank you thank you for having errors when trying to compile the first few times!
Ha! We're all human :)
Hi Chris, there is a line in configuration adv h you can enable to use smaller jerk values with linear advanced
Awesome, thanks for the info.
Hey Chris, love your videos! Very helpful! Quick question. I just finished setting up my PrusaBear with this board and everything works great except I can't get the Super Pinda to trigger. Is there something different I need to do then what you did? Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you again for your awesome videos!
There shouldn't be anything different. What does M119 report?
Hello Chris, good video, thanks. It helped me on the initial wiring. Just wanted to point out one thing, the footprint of the SKR 3 EZ is not larger, it fits the same mountings as the SKR 1.4, except one of the mounting holes had to be moved to allow placement of the motor drivers. I had to use a mounting plate adapter for the 1.4 Turbo board since there are none available for the SKR 3 EZ that I can find. Thanks
Thanks for your insight!
@@ChrisRiley My mistake, it definitely does have a larger footprint. The fact that it still fits on a 1.4 bracket threw me. Will only fit 3 of the holes though. Thanks
Great explanation always Chris.
Could you help answer my question. Can ramps 1.4 use tmc2299 uart and reprap full graphic dispplay?
It can, you have to piggy back on some of the LCD pins. I can be done.
O, Marlin 2.1 has issued... Thanks to this video for good news!
Thanks for watching
Hey fan from Oz here, thanks for your content, you've by far been the easiest tutorials to follow, I started with your octoprint/screen tutorial and then moved to klipepr :D I have a standard S1 with the S1 pro hotend and was loving this of course until yesterday when I had a boo boo and shorted my part fan wiring, and now I am pretty confident my motherboard (F4) is actually cactus as I can't get it to run even with that board disconnected. I was running klipper yesterday but the board wont flash anything I can't go backward, forwards or sideways, I've tried the embedded in folders in root and changing file names). The sales guy I talked to suggested I look into other motherboard options rather than the creality... will this one work if I change all the stepper plugs?
Thanks for watching! I don't know a lot about the S1, I'm not sure what size the S1 board is or if it has a touch screen. The touch screen is really the biggest issue, they almost never work with 3rd part boards. So this board would work for the printer, but not sure if it would fit in the case.
@@ChrisRiley Well the S1 Frankenprinter is runnning :D cr touch and all. I use klipper and mainsail (thanks for those tutorials XD) so I don't need the screen. The finding of the wires for the motherboard pin out from the proprietary 30 pin ribbon cable was quite time consuming and frustrating but I'll make it readily avaliable to anyone who asks. I just need to configure the steppers as atm things are moving double the distance requested.
qq: I went with the non ez card, do you have the file for your old case, I think they are much the muchness. I am going to have to make either an external case or an extension on the base as i don't like how much the wires squish/airflow restrictions with the original base back on.
Hey Chris, great video. My Prusa mk2.5s rambo board has finally had enough and died, would you still recommend the SKR 3 EZ today or is there something else worth getting
now?
There are SO many good boards out there. I do still really like the 3 EZ. We are getting ready to do an install on the REDBEAR live stream build, it will be getting an SKR3. So more than enough cool stuff for the Prusa.
Love your presentation Chris, so easy to follow. I came to your site via "The Real Phoenix" who referenced you in his "Anycubic Chiron Overhaul". My Chiron had regular intermittent fails and no real help from Anycubic (does that sound familiar?). Many Chiron owners complain about the dodgy wire/ wiring - So, based on this article, I have decided to gut it and fit an SKR 3 EZ. Do you foresee any problems? (e.g. dual Z-min ?)
It should be pretty straightforward. You just need to enable dual Z endstops in configuration_adv.h to get that to work.
Chris, is there marlin firware for a CNC machine for wood or aluminum? It looks like a good for that use. Thanks great video as usual.
Thanks! It can be done, take a look here, this is how they do it with Marlin. If would be a great starting point. docs.v1e.com/electronics/marlin-firmware/
Thanks for "first look". Possibility of separate 48V and 5160? I want to see how it works, the price with the drivers is interesting.....
I am curious about that too, we might have to test it.
..... no ...... DUCK .... WHAT THE DUCK! Thanks for bringing the info on the new options!
Lol, thanks for watching
Thank you Chris. Love your videos! Very comprehensive and easy to understand. I have a question, though, on this SKR v3 EZ that I got just few days ago. (btw, the ducky was there too). I'd like to power the whole thing with an old PC ATX PSU. And here is the question... Where do I connect the 5V Vcc from the PSU? Or should I just short circuit it to the ground? I'd like to control the PSU on and off with the SKR v3 EZ and there are no clear solutions out there... at least not clear to me. Should I connect the 5V Vcc and one GND cable from the PSU to the VUSB pins? Would that be a viable solution? Thanks in advance and keep up with good work with your videos! Regards, A.
Thank you! I've never tried it, but it used to be a pretty common thing to do. Tom has a video on it, but I'm not sure it's exactly what you're looking for. I will continue to think of a solution to do something like this. toms3d.org/2019/11/12/atx-supplies-are-super-useful-for-3d-printers/#:~:text=ATX%20supplies%20are%20super%20useful,3D%20printing%20guides%20and%20reviews
@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris! Figured it out. It took me to take out an old Multimeter and do some checks on the board. For the info, old PC ATX PSU +5V Vsb (or Vcc as I called it or the purple wire of the PSU) should be connected to positive pin of the VUSB on the board. GND is supplied via the DC IN connector. The rest is easy, for the PS-ON (the green wire form PC ATX PSU).
Another info, I think you 've got it wrong on the red jumper (in your video). That jumper is to select the voltage to be used with the fans (5V, 12V or DC-IN voltage) and, if DC-MODE adapter is used, should be moved to short VOT pins. The DC-MODE adapter has that functionality and selectable voltage for the FANs (5V or 12 V) in case 24 V PSU is connected to DC-IN.
Anyways, thanks again and stay well.
seriously my favorite source for 3d printing knowledge. love yah man - WhyNotBuildiT
Thank you
Alway look to your vids for info when im config just about anything on my printer. You dont explain what USB cable i need, you just tell me the knowledge i need. Great video. QUESTION, will I need to load my sd card everytime i want to mod my marlin config? Or is there a way to do it thru USB like all the other boards (skr 1.4 skr 1.3) sofar my usb attempts have all given a JTAG error and a CMSIS-DAP error on upload attempts
Btw, not to brag but mine came with ducky
Awww...man....😀
Thank you! That is the only downside to the STM32 boards, you have to do the SDcard load and unload to make config changes. It has something to do with how you interface with the MCU memory via serial. LPC works with USB.
Are the EZ2209 drivers just standard for any nema17 stepper? I have an original CR-10 frame that I found in a dumpster but it is missing the main control box! I am determined to rebuild it and the BTT SKR 3 EZ looks like a great board to finally get this frame going but I am stuck with the 7 different types of EZ drivers. I could really use clarification on the driver choice.
I also badly need a PSU recommendation since that was in the missing brain box too. I have seen MeanWell PSU's mentioned but Im not sure if thats just because it is a drop in replacement for the original CR-10. It is tough to find something that works when I do not have the original parts to reference.
Now I hear you might have an even better mobo video soon? Maybe I should wait for that...
For a CR10, the 2209 is going to work great. The SKR3 will be great as well. If you wanted to save some cash you could go with the BTT Mini V3 board, it comes with drivers and is more than enough for a CR10. The power supply...on an original CR10 everything was 12v. So I would just find one that was 12v around 30amp, like this one. www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2Y5Q03XOOU5TJ&keywords=12v+30+amp+psu&qid=1657221502&sprefix=12v+30amp+psu%2Caps%2C112&sr=8-3
If I'm already running Klipper on an ender3 do i still need to compile firmware or can I just use my existing bin file for the new board?
You will have to recompile for the new board MCU if it's different.
About using ferrules... The 4.2.2 board in my Ender 3 Pro melted right at the mains voltage because of a single loose strand. I've since replace the board with the BTT SKR Mini E3 V3, an used ferrules for all the screw clamps, an it's since never even gotten hot. Please save your printer an take the time to use them!
Thanks for the tip!
The caps on the ez tell the whole tale at first glance
👍🙂
How do you get the green, pink and blue coding color scheme in VScode? Mine is all white, makes it so hard.
It should realize that is all c++ then do that for you. I think we have to let it download the extension. Mine says it has Better C++ Syntax
Would you be able to share where you got your desk top?
It is cheap snap together flooring from Lowes.
Chris. I’m reinstalling vsCODE from the bottom up. No extension’s are installed. I installed platformio. IDE and c++ came along with it. My question is do I need the c++ extension pack? I can remember before a ton of extensions where installed. Lol streamline version
I don't think you need that extra c++ extension.
Hey Chris. I followed your video to set up my SKR3EZ for the Ender5plus but i am having some trouble with the TMC Communication error after compiling. Could you please tell us how you are able to compile with all 5 TMC2209 communicating OK on a m122 command? Cheers.
I've heard this from a few folks. I did have to reseat the drivers and flash the firmware before the error would go away. You might try flashing my firmware to see if it's what's causing the issue.
@@ChrisRiley Thank you for the reply. I have downloaded and compiled from your folder and i have the same errors. It seems to be something else you have on your platformio or vscode and we don't have.
Thank you Chris, but i have mellow fly gemini v2.0 board, would you make a video about how to install it and the firmware configuration? thanks
Coming soon
@@ChrisRiley hello Chris, i am still waiting for your guide, when it can have video? thanks
Hi Chris
When I first watched this video I didn't realize there were so many differences in the SKR 3 and the EZ. I have everything working except for the sensor less homing. I installed the tiny jumpers on X and Y axis and all the axes are moving in the right direction. But, the X and Y axes will not home. I hooked up using Pronterface and I can only move X and Y axes in the + direction and all the end stops show as triggered. I don't remember if that is normal when using sensor less homing. I tried overriding this with the M121 command but it still shows the stops triggered.
Have you tried setting up sensor less homing on these new boards? I could use some help.
I haven't tried sensorless yet, but there will be some configuration updates that need to be made or you will always see them are triggered.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks for the reply, Chris,
I've tried everything I can think of and can't get sensorless homing to work. the endstops are always activated. I tried to invert them but sanity check throws an error. I try commenting out the check and still no joy. I am using Marlin 2.1.2 but also tried 2.1.1, which worked on my SKR 1.4t. Still no joy on the SKR 3.
Where's the screwdriver/pointer from Chris? Love the colour
I'm not sure. My wife gave it to me for Christmas
Hi Chris have bought this board as an upgrade to my Anet a8plus. Set dual z driver by plugging z2 connector in extruder 1 plug & enable Z2 in configuration.h
System working but got really noisy motor function just as if wasn’t working in stealthChop mode. Did I miss something?
Thanks for help.
Hmmm, make sure your Z2 settings in configuration_adv.h matches the settings for Z1, there might be a conflict .
on the website it lists that the 48v is only an option if you use the 5160 drivers, have you used those at all or are the 2209's better?
It's safe to say, that the 2209 are pretty much all you need, unless you build an ultra speed corexy for 500mm/s or more. Then you would need the 5160.
Iirc there was an high voltage version for up to 60v, but you can't find them any more... Only the 48v.
Reason might be that DC voltages are only safe up to 50v. Anything above might not only zapp you... Because of dc current, your muscles just contract and won't let you open your hand. With ac you would still have the possibility.
So I guess we won't see any real 60V anytime soon.
Thank you
I just ordered a SKR 3 and it has an option to use the new driver cards. There is an adapter that plugs into the standard drive connectors and has a slot for the new driver boards. It will only add some height to the SKR 1.x board profile. Not much because the new drivers don' t need the heat sinks. I never liked those heat sinks.
Awesome, yes, I like the new blade type drivers much better.
Not sure if anyone has mentioned it, but they have an ez adaptor available as an option with the skr3
Thanks for the info
FINALLY NORMAL FUSES
🙂👍
Chris I just purchased the SKR 3 and don't want to use sensorless homing, do you have a video on this configuration, thanks
We don't use sensor less homing in this video.
I notice some printers save the auto level mesh on the SD card. Is that because the boards don't have eprom?
Yes, that seemed to be the norm when 32b boards were coming out. With a firmware upgrade most of them now can write to flash even if they don't have eeprom.
Hi Chris. Hope you´re fine. I have a question. I have an normal Ender5 and I bought a new SKR 3 EZ. Do you have a link to an adapter for the board to install it in a normal Ender5? Best regard´s Willi PS: Great Tutorial Video and waiting for the next great video´s ;-)
Doing well! I'm not sure what type of adapter you might need. The plugs will be the same, but you might have to create some sort of custom case to house the board.
How's it compare to the Octopus pro aside from the vertical drivers?
They have a lot of the same features, but the Octopus is going to have more options to offer.
Great stuff man! unfortunately I must have missed something because when I print the movements are CRAZY fast no matter what I set the slicer speed at.
change the acceleration speeds from 3000 to like 500
Hey, are you running Marlin? You might have entered the wrong step count in your config. Search for M92
@@ChrisRiley Yes, marlin 2.1.2 Firmware, my step count was 200 so I dropped the X and Y down to 80 and it slowed them down to a manageable speed.
could you make a video on how to mount the board to a chassis where there are no mounting points?
I'll look into it.
Do you have plans to go over Klipper as well for this board?
Not sure on this board, but more Klipper stuff for sure.
@@ChrisRiley cool! I'm looking into maybe just getting a mini 3 instead. Not sure I'd really need anything more. Replacing the TMC2209EZ drivers sounds nice but sort of unnecessary?
6:55 Hey Chris you mention the plugs used for fan voltage selection. Do you know where I can buy the plug-in modules? Or what they're called? Thanks
It’s tricky, you have to select it in the little box under the board. See if this link works. biqu.equipment/products/bigtreetech-btt-skr-3-control-board-for-3d-printer
You should see a box that says SKR 3 dc mode, when you click it, the price changes to $7 dollars and some change.
Ok I see. Do I need to get 3 of them if I want say 3 different 12 or 5V fans? Or does just one work for all the ports?
@@VideoGems117 Just one for all ports. Can't mix voltages.
Ok thanks man. You’re a legend 🙏
ok so basically skr3 from skr2 we get a faster processor but lose the usb flash drive connector and the duck, I can’t believe we lose the duck. So if marlin 2.1 works fine with the skr3 I should give it a try on my skr2… Great work as usual Chris.
Thank you
So maybe I missed it but what kind of case are you using and where do you have it mounted for the board?
I designed this case to fit default prusa MK2 mounts holes. I haven't posted my version yet because it's not completely finished.
@@ChrisRiley I can't wait till its finished. My modeling skills are bad and that's being generous 😂
Just got this board. It's really nicely made, seems easy to use, but I'm having a problem with the TMC2209s. I cannot fix the TMC Connection Error (shows as "All Low" in graphical mode). Is there a fix for this? Running marlin 2.1.1.
The only time I have seen that is when the driver aren't seated correctly. If that doesn't work I would contact BTT.
@@ChrisRiley could be something i missed in the firmware, but it still prints just fine! So quiet!
Crazy how much they have evolved over the time. But I will stay with my SKR 1.3, since it does all I want it to do
Cool, thanks for watching
Looking forward to following this video. Hopefully I don't grenade my SKR 3.0 like my SKR 2.0 (The back of my SKR 2.0 Board touched my metal power supply and shorted the damn thing letting out the magic smoke -_-)
Woops! Thanks for watching
Interesting how they didn't slot the screw terminal housings together. Hopefully it's not straining the soldered joints unnecessarily.
Thanks for your insight
Will this work with an Ender 3 Pro's LCD? I thought it was EXP 3? You said this had only EXP 1 and 2?
If it's the same as the older SKRs, then it's just a firmware setting in marlin to make the Ender 3 LCD work.
You can make the screen work I think by setting the screen setting to CR10 style.
I got ine question. As my old creality board stopped working tday(running on klipper) and i was used to set the vref directly in the drivers how is this done here?
Directly in klipper via the current in the printer. Cfg file?
Kr and thx very much!!
Yes, the setting will be from 0-1 in the printer.cfg file.
hey so im having a problem where its reading the board in the boards .h but not in config .h and its the same thing that a pasted in both areas of the code. im still new to the printer realm i have messed around with code and cant seem to figure out why it is doing this if you could help would greatly appreciate it.
What ever is in boards.h needs to be copied exactly into configuration.h. Becareful, some boards have multiple processors and versions.
hi chris i need some advice im getting tmc connection error on my sk 3 ez with ez2209s
I haven't heard this many times with this board. If a driver reseat doesn't help, it could be a hardware issue.
Instead of configuring *everything* in configure.h and configure_adv.h, there are preconfigured files in the separate configs zip downloaded from the same marlin download page. Should be on the right column as the main download link.
In it, you'll find a huge bunch of preconfigured printers and boards. Only copy the configs for the board of yours into the Marlin folder and overwrite the original configs.
Then you only need to configure additional features you want to use, such as bed level sensors etc. Saves a ton of work.
Thanks!
Which is more expandable, BTT SKR3 or Manta E3EZ ? Interested also in 48V
The only difference is Klipper, if you want to runt Klipper without a PI you need the Manta and a SBC module.
@@ChrisRiley kind thanks , for now i´m mainly for motor 57, so maube Klipper later then
coudl you please re make a video using the CR touch or BL touch? it would really help me a ton!
I'll look into it!
@@ChrisRiley that would be awesome
I would love to see how you male the cables from the cr touch cable to fit the new board
With that fast CPU, could it run both sides (printer firmware + kinematics processing) of Klipper on board?
It could, but unfortunately, it's not designed that way. Stay tuned, we will be looking at a board soon that WILL do exactly that.
@@ChrisRiley Perhaps the Fly Gemini?
22:39 Check your PLA preheat bed temp... you set it to 00 instead of 60. (configuration.h, line 1994)
Thanks
@@ChrisRiley why should PLA preheat bed temp be 00 and not 60 or 65?
Why did they position the drivers at a 45? Does that mean you will need 2 cooling fans?
I think it was just for space savings. Putting this on there edge like this, you might not need a fan at all.
My controlled material cooling fan had a short contact and it fried a component on the board but the board still works it blowed out the 10 amp fuse too... i wonder how it can possibly still work because the component glowed and smoke came out. I tried all motors, connection and bed and hotend heating up and slot where fan was connected works aswell, fan spinns. I cant seem to find the non working part of the motherboard so far.
Wow, I'm amazed. Maybe they finally have enough things protected where they can tolerate a fault.
@@ChrisRiley i found the problem, the first controlled fan slot is now always on fan, it cant be controlled anymore its just stays on :D. i have 2 more slots need to enable one of them in Marlin i think.
Thank you for your awesome videos. I always come to your channel when I can't figure something out. I have the SKR 3 EZ and I am having problems with Klipper. My Z motor is clicking during prints but when I calibrate it, it extrudes the correct amount of filament. The prints come out "squished" like the Z axis is not going up while printing.
I wonder if it's a compatibility issue with klipper. I'm not sure it supports this chip yet.
is it possible to define dual x axis using this board ?
Sure, you would use E1 and Marlin will use that as the second X.
Chris, I would like to install this board on my Anycubic Mega X machine. This machine has dual Z motors and dual Z stops. On the board layout, I only see a place for only a single Z stop switch. My question is, is there a way to run a dual Z stops?
Yes, you can assign one of the other pins as the second Z endstop. You would just need to reassign the pin.
@ChrisRiley Thanks for your reply. I'm looking at the schematic, what pins am I looking for?
@@galaxyhunter1978 I would go with PC15, that the traditional Z max pin which marlin to default to. They are labeled pwrdet.
@@ChrisRiley . Very good, thank you Sir.
Rotating those drivers by 45 degrees makes cooling them more difficult.
I would think the added mass would help, but the fan would be a lot more difficult to place.
Oh, the skr ex allows for Nema 23s. Wonder if there is. Reprap firmware for this board yet.
Edit: rerap is a go.
Great, thanks
I have concerns about those pluggable driver modules. If the board is placed upside-down and they're subjected to vibration they will work loose.
I also recall, from the prevalence of these edge-connector style sockets in 1970-1980s computers, that they were generally unreliable.
Time will tell but I expect issues.
We will see my friend
Those new drivers look like a Droid's personality chip.
👍🙂
i connect also a mobile charger to my ender 3 and now i dont have power loose.any idea???
What happened? You no longer have power loss recovery? You might have a bad SD card, it save the status there.
@@ChrisRiley i change everything in the printer also i bought new sd cards..
I will like to send you a photo to show you something maby there is the problem
Has anyone gotten this error? Error: Could not find one of 'package.json' manifest files in the package
That usually means it's missing a file. Make sure you have added the folder that contains the marlin folder. If you see the .pio folder you are good. If it still doesn't work run a clean and try again.
what is the part fan?
I'm not sure what port you're talking about. FAN0 is your part fan. github.com/bigtreetech/SKR-3/blob/master/Hardware%20(SKR%203%20EZ)/BIGTREETECH%20SKR%203%20EZ%20V1.0-PIN.pdf
Chris, have you ever tried to set up reprap? I mean compared to setting it up on duet (I get duet cost 5 times as much).
The marlin guys should really start pushing the web setup because people are using marlin on everything now. Even ass scratchers and Unreal Engine 5.
The RepRap setup is coming soon.
how is call that extruder... is 3d printed or a kit?
That is the extruder for a Prusa KM2.5
Have you come across the working skr 3 with the tmc error?
When I first booted mine up I did get the TMC error, I had to reset the drivers and re-flash to get it to go away. If the error stays it must be a hardware problem.
@@ChrisRiley I assumed it was the hardware but got another same issue. Many people on Github with same issue. My printer works, just has tmc error on screen and m211 all low. Someone made a basic bin file which had no error.
@@vwsurfer8809 Wow, that's crazy. I wonder if flashing my config has the same issue?
@@ChrisRiley I feel like it’s vscode. Or just BTT issue
@@ChrisRiley What do you think Chris? can you fix it?
what does Y fan stand for and what does N fan stand for?
i think the Y fan is the part fan no?
I'm not sure what port you're talking about. FAN0 is your part fan. github.com/bigtreetech/SKR-3/blob/master/Hardware%20(SKR%203%20EZ)/BIGTREETECH%20SKR%203%20EZ%20V1.0-PIN.pdf
Anybody else feel like the SKR 3 EZ is a subtle dig at TH3D's line of EZ products?
No Comment
@@ChrisRiley 10-4 Roger Roger
im surprised th3d isnt kicking off over skr using EZ in the name :P
😀
If they complained all the other companies who use EZ could go after them. EZ PZ
Given how much cheaper the EZ modules are, I'm assuming that they are cheaper to make.
🙂👍
Do I need a raspberry pi to run RepRap firmware on this board?
No, you would just need an ESP module like this. amzn.to/3ZYuuWM
@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris. Can I ask your opinion on reprap vs klipper. I have an original CR-10 and I also just ordered a flying bear reborn 2. I would like to convert them to either reprap or klipper. I may buy the boards from duet or may not. One bonus of reprap is I believe they have a cnc module. My father has a CNC router and I have a mill I am converting to CNC. It would be cool to have a common firmware for both 3D printers and CNC. Do you prefer Klipper or RepRap? If you prefer Klipper, is it better enough to outweigh the benefits of having a common 3D printing / CNC firmware? Also, do you know anyone who has used reprap firmware for CNC? Thanks for your response, and keep the awesome videos coming.
@@f1hotrod527 I really like REPRAP because you can get the WIFI features and you don't need a RPi. It just makes for a cleaner install. Most of the boards now a days have 32b and can handle any features we need, not like the old days. If I was wanting to do printing and CNC, REPRAP would be my choice. I don't know anyone personally that has setup CNC on REPRAP, but there is a ton of great configs out there. docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Machine_configuration/Configuration_CNC
second! I wonder if I can fit one of these into my Lulzbot Mini v1....No duck? well, this isn't for me.
🙂 Thanks for watching
Can this board handle IDEX?
Probably not enough ports
@ChrisRiley or anyone who may know... Unbrick my rig?? New to FDM and somewhat new to configs. Started with Longer LK5 Pro 24V system and added E3D V6 Gold, fans, SKR3 EZ with EZ5160 steppers (4) and BTT TFT35 V3.0.1 touchscreen. Can't find configs for 24V steppers and drivers and hanging up on trinamic and stealthchop config currently. Can anyone direct me to a github or other config location or know the lingo I need for those settings for Marlin? Not sure what specifics to include here, bit new... Thanks in advance!
Hello, not sure what config options you might be refereeing to. You can just set 5160 in the config file and that should take care of it, no other config options needed. I might be missing something, so let me know how I can help.
If you set the voltage to 24v in the firmware Marlin adv.h that's all that's needed if you're running a 24v power supply. line3078 #define CHOPPER_TIMING CHOPPER_DEFAULT_12V
what is the resistor for?
Hmmm, which one?
@@ChrisRiley the loose one in the bag with the connector pins.
@@ChrisRiley it reads out at 125 ohm.
Please don't criticize but I'm working on this with my disabled son and I'm not sure what the ESP 1 and 2 ports are for. Can anyone help me?
Hey, no worries, I think you mean the EXP 1 & 2 ports, those are the 10 pin connectors with the black shrouds.
@@ChrisRiley yep...sorry I guess I didn't type it right. All I'm getting on these ports is they're used to connect a monitor???? But it doesn't say how, or with what connectors etc. I've looked all over CZcams and they always just go around these ports and don't explain them. Can you help or point me to a video that can maybe?
Can I hook up HDMI to it??
@@robindibble3122 There's no video output for these, no HDMI, but you can use LCD screens. Something like this www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Printer-Controller-Display-Arduino/dp/B07X378P8X/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=12864+lcd+display&qid=1675910202&sprefix=12864%2Caps%2C134&sr=8-3
Watching your videos reminds me why I abandoned Marlin in favor of Klipper. 😅
Anyway, you mentioned the notch on the stepper driver PCB, and that makes me wonder if it is possible to connect that PCB in the wrong way. It's something that makes me wonder if a keyed edge connector, like PCI-Express 1x form factor, would be a better choice or not.
If you try to flip is backward, the chip will bottom out on the header, so if you could get it in there only half the pins would seat.